the city of domes-第15部分

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　So　they　were　sprayed　with　a　liquid　celluloid　to　soften　them　into　their　present　ivory　hue。　The　change　shows　how　important　detail　is；　and　how　carefully　Guerin's　department　has　worked。　While　the　construction　was　going　on　there　was　one　remark　that　often　used　to　be　heard；　'It　will　never　be　noticed；'　and　a　most　foolish　remark　it　was。　It　showed　that　the　people　who　made　it　were　lacking　in　imagination。　Millions　of　eyes　have　been　watching　the　details　of　this　Exposition　and　very　little　has　escaped　notice。〃

A　great　crowd　was　pouring　out　of　the　afternoon　concert　in　Festival　Hall。　The　architect；　as　he　looked　on；　remarked：　〃It's　like　being　in　Paris；　isn't　it？　Or；　perhaps；　it's　more　like　being　in　a　lovely　old　French　provincial　city；　where　the　theater　is　the　chief　architectural　monument。　It's　hard　for　me　to　understand　why　the　French　have　encouraged　that　kind　of　architecture　for　their　theaters　and　opera　houses。　It　seems　so　unrelated　to　sound；　which　ought　to　give　the　clue　to　the　building。　The　use　of　the　word　festival　here　is　a　little　old…fashioned　and　misleading。　It　doesn't　mean　what　we　usually　consider　festivity。　It　is　essentially　a　concert　hall；　and　the　architecture　ought　to　suggest　concentration　of　sound　by　being　built　in　a　way　that　shall　make　such　concentration　inevitable。　But　this　kind　of　building　is　obviously　related　to　dissipation　of　sound。　No　wonder　the　acoustics　turned　out　bad　and　the　interior　had　to　be　remodeled。〃



XII

The　Half　Courts



In　front　of　the　Court　of　Palms　we　stopped　to　admire　James　Earl　Fraser's　〃End　of　the　Trail；〃　the　most　popular　group　of　sculpture　in　the　Exposition。　〃It　deserves　all　its　popularity；　doesn't　it？　It's　finely　imagined　and　splendidly　worked　out。　The　pony　is　excellent　in　its　modeling　and　the　Indian　is　wonderfully　life…like。〃

At　our　side　a　man　and　a　woman　were　standing；　the　man　more　than　six　feet　tall；　with　broad　shoulders　and　a　face　that　had　evidently　seen　a　good　deal　of　weather。　〃I've　known　fellers　just　like　that　Indian；〃　we　heard　him　say；　〃up　in　Minnesota。　He　might　be　a　Blackfoot　after　a　couple　of　days'　tusselling　with　the　wind　and　the　rain　in　the　mountains。　I've　seen　'em　come　into　town　all　beat　out。　The　man　that　made　that　statue　knew　his　business。　An'　I　guess　he　knew　what　he　was　doing　when　he　called　it　'The　End　of　the　Trail。〃'

When　the　visitor　had　passed；　the　architect　said：　〃The　symbolism　gets　them　all；　doesn't　it；　and　the　realism；　too？　But　Fraser　couldn't　have　expressed　so　much　if　he　hadn't　put　a　lot　of　heart　into　his　'Work。　He　really　felt　all　that　the　Indian　represented；　as　a　human　being　and　as　a　representative　of　a　dying　race。〃

〃The　Court　of　Palms〃　captured　us　both；　by　its　shape；　by　the　splendor　of　the　Ionic　columns；　by　the　loveliness　of　its　detail；　by　its　coloring　and　by　that　charm　of　its　sunken　garden。　〃You　can　feel　here　the　mind　that　developed　those　four　Italian　towers。　It　shows　the　same　balanced　judgment；　and　skill　and　taste。　The　two　towers　here；　though　they　stand　at　either　end　of　the　court；　and　make　a　beautiful　ornamentation；　are　really　a　part　of　the　wall。　They　help　to　give　it　dignity　and　variety。　And　how　artistically　the　palms　　have　been　used　here。　They　can　be　among　the　least　graceful　of　plants；　but　here　they　are　really　decorative。　And　those　laurel　trees　at　the　side　of　the　main　doorway　make　fine　ornamental　notes。　The　sculptured　vases；　too；　are　wonderfully　graceful。〃

Above　the　doorways　we　found　the　three　murals　that　gave　further　distinction　to　this　court　and　enriched　the　coloring。　In　〃Fruits　and　Flowers〃　Childe　Hassam　had　done　one　of　his　purely　decorative　pictures；　without　a　story；　contenting　himself　with　graceful　pictures　and　delicate　color　scheme。　Charles　Holloway　made　〃The　Pursuit　of　Pleasure〃　frankly　allegorical；　the　floating　figure　of　the　woman　pursued　by　admiring　youths。　Over　the　main　doorway　Arthur　Mathews　had　also　painted　an　allegory；　〃Victorious　Spirit；〃　the　Angel　of　Light；　with　wide…spread　wings　of　gold；　standing　in　the　center　and　keeping　back　the　spirit　of　materialism；　represented　by　a　fiery　horse　driven　by　his　rider　with　brutal　energy。　〃Observe　how　successfully　Mathews　has　chosen　his　colors。　These　deep　purples　help　to　bring　out　the　splendor　of　those　golden　tones。　This　canvas　is　unquestionably　one　of　the　best　of　all　the　murals。　It　shows　that　in　Mathews　San　Francisco　has　a　man　of　remarkable　talent；　one　of　the　great　mural　painters　of　the　country。〃

On　the　way　to　the　second　half…court　we　had　a　chance　to　see　the　South　Wall　at　close　range；　with　its　rich　ornamented　doorways；　its　little　niches　and　fountains　devised　to　make　it　varied　and　gay。　Those　little　elephant　heads　were　another　sign　of　Faville's　careful　attention　to　ornamental　detail。　And　the　coloring　gave　warmth　to　the　background；　contrasting　with　the　deep　green　of　the　planting。

At　the　Court　of　Flowers　we　met　Solon　Borglum's　〃Pioneer；　too　old　to　be　typical；　different　from　the　man　in　lusty　middle　age　or　in　youth　who　came　to　California　in　the　early　days。　But　it　justified　itself　by　suggesting　perhaps　the　greatest　of　the　pioneers　in　old　age；　one　who　had　grown　with　the　community；　the　poet；　Joaquin　Miller。　〃It's　Miller　sure　enough；〃　said　the　architect；　〃even　if　the　likeness　isn't　close。　But　why　those　military　trappings　on　the　horse？　Like　the　rest　of　the　pioneers；　Joaquin　was　a　man　of　peace。〃

The　Court　of　Flowers　we　thought　well　named；　both　for　its　planting；　McLaren　at　his　best；　and　for　its　Italian　Renaissance　decoration；　with　that　pretty　pergola　opening　out　on　the　scene；　Calder's　Oriental　〃Flower　Girl〃　decorating　the　spaces　between　the　arches。　And　those　lions　by　Albert　Laessle　were　a　fine　decorative　feature。　The　fountain；　〃Beauty　and　the　Beast；〃　by　Edgar　Walter；　of　San　Francisco；　was　one　of　the　most　original　and　decorative　pieces　of　sculpture　we　had　seen。　The　figure　of　the　girl　standing　on　the　coils　of　the　beast　was　remarkably　well　done　and　the　water　flowing　over　the　bowl；　with　the　pipes　of　Pan　glimpsed　underneath；　made　a　charming　picture。　There　was　a　whimsical　and　a　peculiarly　French　suggestion　in　the　use　of　the　decorative　hat　and　sandals　on　the　nude　figure。　In　detail　those　two　towers　at　the　end　were　slightly　different　from　the　other　two。　Like　the　others　they　served　as　a　decoration　of　the　wall；　breaking　the　long　lines。〃



XIII

Near　Festival　Hall



At　close　view　we　found　the　Festival　Hall　more　interesting　than　it　had　seemed　at　a　distance。　It　unquestionably　had　something　of　the　elegance　associated　with　the　best　French　architecture。　But；　unlike　most　of　the　buildings　here；　it　did　not　develop　out　of　a　central　idea。　Much　of　its　ornamentation　seemed　put　on　from　the　outside。

Of　all　the　domes　this　dome　impressed　us　as　being　the　least　interesting。　It　did　not　even　justify　itself　as　being　a　means　of　giving　abundant　light。　〃This　kind　of　architecture　doesn't　really　belong　in　this　country；　but　it　seems　to　be　making　its　way。　Observe　the　waste　of　space　involved。　However；　the　curving　arches　on　either　side　are　rather　charming。　And　the　architect　has　succeeded　in　putting　into　the　whole　structure　a　certain　amount　of　sentiment。　In　fact；　throughout　the　whole　Exposition　you　feel　that　the　architects　haven't　worked　merely　for　money　or　for　glory。　They　have　appreciated　the　chance　of　doing　something；　out　of　the　commonplace。〃

The　sculpture　by　Sherry　Fry　was　evidently　executed　with　the　idea　of　festivity　in　mind；　the　〃Bacchus〃　and　〃The　Reclining　Woman〃　and　two　〃Floras〃　decorated　with　flowers；　and　〃Little　Pan；〃　and　〃The　Torch…bearer〃　reproduced　above　each　of　the　smaller　domes。　But；　somehow；　those　figures　did　not　quite　indicate　the　real　character　of　the　building；　intended　for　concerts　and　lectures　and　conventions；　rather　serious　business。　The　coloring；　too；　of　the　statues；　was　disappointing；　the　dull　brown　being　out　of　key　with　the　light　green　of　the　domes。

〃In　the　smaller　concert　room　upstairs；　Recital　Hall；〃　said　the　architect；　〃there　is　some　very　fine　stained　glass；　two　windows；　and　on　the　landing　of　the　north　stairway　there's　a　third　window；　all　done　by　the　man　who　has　been　called　the　Burne…Jones　of　America；　Charles　J。　Connick；　of　Boston。　Instead　of　being　hidden　away　there；　they　ought　to　have　been　put　in　the　Fine　Arts　Building。　They　represent　something　new　in　the　way　of　stained　glass；　and　they　have　a　wonderful　depth　and　brilliancy。〃

As　we　drew　near　the　Avenue　of　Progress　we　saw　the　magnificent　doorway　of　the　Varied　Industries；　overladen　with　ornamentation。　〃It　was　clever　of　Faville　to　put　that　doorway　just　in　this　spot　where　it　would　be　seen　by　the　crowds　that　entered　by　Fillmore　Street。　It　comes　from　the　Santa　Cruz　Hospital；　in　Toledo；　Spain；　built　by　the　Spanish　architect；　De　Egas；　for　Cardinal　Mendoza；　one　of　the　most　famous　portals　in　Europe。　The　adaptation　has　been　wonderfully　done　by　Ralph　Stackpole；　with　those　figures　of　the　American　workman　carrying　a　pick　at　either　side　and　the　semicircular　panel　just　above　the　door　and　the　group　on　top。　That　panel　is　one　of　the　finest　pieces　of　sculpture　in　the　Exposition。　It　has　tenderness　and　reverence。　It's　the　kind　of　thing　the　mediaeval　sculptors　who　worked　on　religious　themes　would　have　been　enthusiastic　over。　See　how　simple　it　is；　just　a　group　of　workers；　with　the　emblems　of　their　work；　the　women　spinning　with　the　lamb　close　by；　the　artist　and　the　artisan；　and　the　woman　with　the　design　of　a　vessel's　prow　in　her　hands；　suggesting　commerce。　The　single　figure　in　the　center　is　the　intelligent　workman　who　works　with　his　hands　and　knows　how　to　work；　too。　The　group　on　top　is　a　very　pretty　conception；　the　Old　World　Handing　Its　Burden　to　the　Younger　World；　with　its　suggestions　of　the　European　people　coming　over　here　and　raising　American　children。〃



XIV

The　Palace　of　Machinery



On　reaching　the　Avenue　of　Progress　we　found　ourselves　at　the　gayest　corner　of　the　Exposition；　with　two　fine　vistas　of　the　two　avenues。　To　our　right　stood　the　massive　Palace　of　Machinery；　one　of　the　largest　buildings　in　the　world；　so　successfully　treated　by　the　architect　that　it　did　not　give　the　faintest　suggestion　of　being　cumbersome　or　monotonous。　〃It's　the　Baths　of　Caracalla　in　Rome；〃　said　the　architect；　〃adapted　by　a　master。　Those　three　gables　above　the　main　entrance　are　taken　directly　from　the　baths。　See　how　simple　the　ornamentation　is　and　yet　how　satisfying。　The　building　as　a　whole　is　a　perfect