first across the continent-第23部分
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and Clark。 They were now still travelling southwardapproaching the ultimate sources of the great Missouri。 The journal says:
〃We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure white paint on its banks; and we therefore call it Whiteearth Creek。 She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no great distancea piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all; as we hope soon to reach the head of that river。 This is the warmest day; except one; we have experienced this summer。 In the shade the mercury stood at eighty degrees; which is the second time it has reached that height during this season。 We camped on an island; after making nineteen and three quarters miles。
〃In the course of the day we saw many geese; cranes; small birds common to the plains; and a few pheasants。 We also observed a small plover or curlew of a brown color; about the size of a yellow…legged plover or jack…curlew; but of a different species。 It first appeared near the mouth of Smith's River; but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable to shoot it。 Both the broad and narrow…leaved willow continue; though the sweet willow has become very scarce。 The rosebush; small honeysuckle; pulpy…leaved thorn; southernwood; sage; box…elder; narrow…leaved cottonwood; redwood; and a species of sumach; are all abundant。 So; too; are the red and black gooseberries; service…berry; choke…cherry; and the black; yellow; red; and purple currants; which last seems to be a favorite food of the bear。 Before camping we landed and took on board Captain Clark; with the meat he had collected during this day's hunt; which consisted of one deer and an elk; we had; ourselves; shot a deer and an antelope。〃
The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size。 They also observed wild flax; garlic; and other vegetable products of value。 The journal adds:
〃We saw many otter and beaver to…day 'July 24th'。 The latter seem to contribute very much to the number of islands; and the widening of the river。 They begin by damming up the small channels of about twenty yards between the islands: this obliges the river to seek another outlet; and; as soon as this is effected; the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and sand。 The industrious animal is then driven to another channel; which soon shares the same fate; till the river spreads on all sides; and cuts the projecting points of the land into islands。 We killed a deer; and saw great numbers of antelopes; cranes; some geese; and a few red…headed ducks。 The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant: we saw a large bear; but could not come within gunshot of him。 There are numerous tracks of the elk; but none of the animals themselves; and; from the appearance of bones and old excrement; we suppose that buffalo sometimes stray into the valley; though we have as yet seen no recent sign of them。 Along the water are a number of snakes; some of a uniform brown color; others black; and a third speckled on the abdomen; and striped with black and a brownish yellow on the back and sides。 The first; which is the largest; is about four feet long; the second is of the kind mentioned yesterday; and the third resembles in size and appearance the garter…snake of the United States。 On examining the teeth of all these several kinds; we found them free from poison: they are fond of the water; in which they take shelter on being pursued。 The mosquitoes; gnats; and prickly pear; our three persecutors; still continue with us; and; joined with the labor of working the canoes; have fatigued us all excessively。〃
On Thursday; July 25; Captain Clark; who was in the lead; as usual; arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri。 The stream flowing in a generally northeastern direction was the true; or principal Missouri; and was named the Jefferson。 The middle branch was named the Madison; in honor of James Madison; then Secretary of State; and the fork next to the eastward received the name of Albert Gallatin; then Secretary of the Treasury; and by these titles the streams are known to this day。 The explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit; their trail being to the eastward of the modern cities of Helena and Butte; and separated only by a narrow divide (then unknown to them) from the sources of some of the streams that fall into the Pacific Ocean。 Under the date of July 27; the journal says:
〃We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians。 After advancing for several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country; we may soon expect that the game will abandon us。 With no information of the route; we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we reach the head of the riverat least; such a pass as will lead us to the Columbia。 Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that river; the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does not promise us any fit to make canoes; so that our chief dependence is on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses。 Our consolation is that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river than the Columbia; and that if any nation of Indians can live in the mountains we are able to endure as much as they can; and have even better means of procuring subsistence。〃
Chapter XII
At the Sources of the Missouri
The explorers were now (in the last days of July; 1805) at the head of the principal sources of the great Missouri River; in the fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains; at the base of the narrow divide that separates Idaho from Montana in its southern corner。 Just across this divide are the springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia and then to the Pacific Ocean。 As has been already set forth; they named the Three Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet。 These names still survive; although Jefferson River is the true Missouri and not a fork of that stream。 Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis bestowed the titles of Philosophy; Wisdom; and Philanthropy; each of these gifts and graces being; in his opinion; 〃an attribute of that illustrious personage; Thomas Jefferson;〃 then President of the United States。 But alas for the fleeting greatness of geographical honor! Philosophy River is now known as Willow Creek; and at its mouth; a busy little railroad town; is Willow City。 The northwest fork is no longer Wisdom; but Big Hole River; deep valleys among the mountains are known as holes; and the stream called by that name; once Wisdom; is followed along its crooked course by a railroad that connects Dillon; Silver Bow; and Butte City; Montana。 Vulgarity does its worst for Philanthropy; its modern name on the map is Stinking Water。
On the thirtieth of July; the party; having camped long enough to unpack and dry their goods; dress their deerskins and make them into leggings and moccasins; reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent of the Jefferson。 The journal makes this record:
〃Sacajawea; our Indian woman; informs us that we are encamped on the precise spot where her countrymen; the Snake Indians; had their huts five years ago; when the Minnetarees of Knife River first came in sight of them; and from whom they hastily retreated three miles up the Jefferson; and concealed themselves in the woods。 The Minnetarees; however; pursued and attacked them; killed four men; as many women; and a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys and all the females; of whom Sacajawea was one。 She does not; however; show any distress at these recollections; nor any joy at the prospect of being restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly; or the philosophy; of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear。
〃This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long…tailed red kind; which are quite as large as those of the United States; and are; indeed; the only kind we have found at this place。 There are numbers of the sand…hill cranes feeding in the meadows: we caught a young one of the same color as the red deer; which; though it had nearly attained its full growth; could not fly; it is very fierce; and strikes a severe blow with its beak。 。 。 。
〃Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow…land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by beaver…dams that; in order to avoid them; he directed his course toward the high plain on the right。 This he gained with some difficulty; after wading up to his waist through the mud and water of a number of beaver…dams。 When he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so thick; and the river so crooked; that this; joined to the difficulty of passing the beaver…dams; induced him to go on and endeavor to intercept the river at some point where it might be more collected into one channel; and approach nearer the high plain。 He arrived at the bank about sunset; having gone only six miles in a direct course from the canoes; but he saw no traces of the men; nor did he receive any answer to his shouts and the firing of his gun。 It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him; and he shot it。 He then went on the head of a small island; where he found some driftwood; which enabled him to cook his duck for supper; and laid down to sleep on some willow…brush。 The night was cool; but the driftwood gave him a good fire; and he suffered no inconvenience; except from the mosquitoes。〃
The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well…seasoned pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader。 It was a common thing for men; or for a solitary man; to be caught out of camp by nightfall and compelled to bivouac; like Captain Lewis; in the underbrush; or the prairie…grass。 As they pressed on; game began to fail them。 Under date of July 31; they remark that the only game seen that day was one bighorn; a few antelopes; deer; and a brown bear; all of which escaped them。 〃Nothing was killed to…day;〃 it is recorded; 〃nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; so that we are now reduced to an unusual situation; for we have hi