voyage of the paper canoe-第14部分

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aniards。〃

The　Delaware　River；　the　Makeriskitton　of　the　savage；　upon　whose　noble　waters　my　paper　canoe　was　now　to　carry　me　southward；　has　its　sources　in　the　western　declivity　of　the　Catskill　Mountains；　in　the　state　of　New　York。　It　is　fed　by　two　tributary　streams；　the　Oquago　（or　　Coquago）　and　the　Popacton；　which　unite　their　waters　at　the　boundary　line　of　Pennsylvania；　at　the　northeast　end　of　the　state；　from　which　it　flows　southward　seventy　miles；　separating　the　Empire　and　Keystone　states。　When　near　Port　Jervis；　which　town　is　connected　with　Rondout　on　the　Hudson　River；　by　the　Hudson　and　　Delaware　Canal；　the　Delaware　turns　sharply　to　the　southwest；　and　becomes　the　boundary　line　　between　the　states　of　New　Jersey　and　　Pennsylvania。　Below　Easton　the　river　again　takes　a　Southeasterly　course；　and　flowing　past　Trenton；　Bristol；　Bordentown；　Burlington；　Philadelphia；　Camden；　Newcastle；　and　Delaware　City；　empties　its　waters　into　Delaware　Bay　about　forty　miles　below　Philadelphia。

This　river　has　about　the　same　length　as　the　Hudson　　three　hundred　miles。　　The　tide　reaches　one　hundred　and　thirty…two　miles　from　the　sea　at　Cape　May　and　Cape　Henlopen。　　Philadelphia　is　the　head　of　navigation　for　vessels　of　the　heaviest　tonnage；　Trenton　for　light…draught　steamboats。　　At　Bordentown　the　river　is　less　than　half　a　mile　wide；　at　Philadelphia　it　is　three…fourths　of　a　mile　in　width；　while　at　　Delaware　City　it　widens　to　two　miles　and　a　half。　Delaware　Bay　is　twenty…six　miles　across　in　the　widest　part；　which　is　some　miles　within　the　entrance　of　the　Capes。

October　31st　was　cool　and　gusty。　　The　river　route　to　Philadelphia　is　twenty…nine　statute　miles。　The　passage　was　made　against　a　strong　head…wind；　with　swashy　waves；　which　made　me　again　regret　that　I　did　not　have　my　canoe…decking　made　at　Troy；　instead　of　at　Philadelphia。　　The　　highly　cultivated　farms　and　beautiful　country…seats　along　both　the　Pennsylvania　and　New　Jersey　sides　of　the　river　spoke　highly　of　the　rich　character　of　the　soil　and　the　thrift　of　the　inhabitants。　These　river　counties　of　two　states　may　be　called　a　land　of　plenty；　blessed　with　bountiful　　harvests。

Quaker　industry　and　wise　economy　in　　managing　the　agricultural　affairs　of　this　section　in　the　early　epochs　of　our　country's　settlement　have　borne　good　fruit。　　All　praise　to　the　　memory　of　William　Penn　of　Pennsylvania　and　his　worthy　descendants。　　The　old　towns　of　　Bristol　on　the　right；　and　Burlington　on　the　left　bank；　embowered　in　vernal　shades；　have　a　most　comfortable　and　home…like　appearance。

At　five　o'clock　P。　M。　I　arrived　at　the　city　pier　opposite　the　warehouse　of　Messrs。　C。　P。　Knight　&　Brother；　No。　114　South　Delaware　Avenue；　where；　after　a　struggle　with　wind　and　wave　for　eight　hours；　the　canoe　was　landed　and　deposited　with　the　above　firm；　the　gentlemen　of　which　kindly　offered　to　care　for　it　while　I　tarried　in　the　〃City　of　Brotherly　Love。〃

Among　the　many　interesting　spots　hallowed　by　memories　of　the　past　in　which　Philadelphia　abounds；　and　which　are　rarely　sought　out　by　visitors；　two　especially　claim　the　attention　of　the　naturalist。　　One　is　the　old　home　of　　William　Bartram；　on　the　banks　of　the　Schuylkill　at　Grey's　Ferry；　the　other；　the　grave　of　Alexander　Wilson；　friends　and　co…laborers　in　nature's　　extended　field；　　the　first　a　botanist；　the　second　the　father　of　American　ornithology。

William　Bartram；　son　of　the　John　Bartram　who　was　the　founder　of　the　Botanic　Garden　on　the　west　bank　of　the　Schuylkill；　was　born　at　that　interesting　spot　in　1739。　　All　botanists　are　familiar　with　the　results　of　his　patient　labors　and　his　pioneer　travels　in　those　early　days；　through　the　wilderness　of　what　now　constitutes　the　southeastern　states。　　One　who　visited　him　at　his　home　says：　〃Arrived　at　the　botanist's　garden；　we　approached　an　old　man　who；　with　a　rake　in　his　hand；　was　breaking　the　clods　of　earth　in　a　tulip…bed。　　His　hat　was　old；　and　flapped　over　his　Etee；　his　coarse　shirt　was　seen　near　his　neck；　as　he　wore　no　cravat　nor　kerchief；　his　waistcoat　and　breeches　were　both　of　leather；　and　his　shoes　were　tied　with　leather　strings。　　We　approached　and　accosted　him。　　He　ceased　his　work；　and　entered　into　conversation　with　the　ease　and　politeness　of　nature's　nobleman。　　His　　countenance　was　expressive　of　benignity　and　　happiness。　　This　was　the　botanist；　traveller　and　　philosopher　we　had　come　to　see。〃

William　Bartram　gave　important　assistance　and　encouragement　to　the　friendless　Scotch　　pedagogue；　Alexander　Wilson；　while　the　latter　was　preparing　his　American　Ornithology　for　the　press。　　This　industrious　and　peaceable　botanist　died　within　the　walls　of　his　dearly…loved　home　a　few　minutes　after　he　had　penned　a　description　of　a　plant。　　He　died　in　1823；　in　the　eighty…fifth　year　of　his　age。　　The　old　house　of　John　and　William　Bartram　remains　nearly　the　same　as　when　the　last　Bartram　died；　but　the　grounds　have　been　occupied　and　improved　by　the　present　proprietor；　whose　fine　mansion　is　near　the　old　residence　of　the　two　botanists。

Without　ample　funds　to　enable　him　to　carry　out　his　bold　design；　Alexander　Wilson　labored　and　suffered　in　body　and　mind　for　several　years；　until　his　patient　and　persistent　efforts　achieved　the　success　they　so　richly　merited。　　All　but　the　last　volume　of　his　American　Ornithology　were　completed　when　the　overworked　naturalist　died。

The　old　Swedes'　Church　is　the　most　ancient　religious　edifice　in　Philadelphia；　and　is　located　near　the　wharves　in　the　vicinity　of　Christian　and　Swanson　streets；　in　the　old　district　of　　Southwark。　　The　Swedes　had　settlements　on　the　　Delaware　before　Penn　visited　America。　　They　built　a　wooden　edifice　for　worship　in　1677；　on　the　spot　where　the　brick　〃Swedes'　Church〃　now　stands；　and　which　was　erected　in　1700。　　　Threading　narrow　streets；　with　the　stenographic　　reporter　of　the　courts；　Mr。　R。　A。　West；　for　my　guide；　we　came　into　a　quiet　locality　where　the　ancient　landmark　reared　its　steeple；　like　the　　finger　of　faith　pointing　heavenward。　　Few　indeed　must　be　the　fashionable　Christians　who　worship　under　its　unpretentious　roof；　but　there　is　an　air　of　antiquity　surrounding　it　which　interests　every　visitor　who　enters　its　venerable　doorway。

The　church…yard　is　very　contracted　in　area　yet　there　is　room　for　trees　to　grow　within　its　sacred　precincts；　and　birds　sometimes　rest　there　while　pursuing　their　flight　from　the　Schuylkill　to　the　Delaware。　　Among　the　crowded　graves　is　a　square　brick　structure；　covered　with　an　　horizontal　slab　of　white　marble；　upon　which　I　read：


　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃THIS　MONUMENT　COVER5　THE　REMAINS　OF

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　ALEXANDER　WILSON；

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　AUTHOR　OF　THE　AMERICAN　ORNITHOLOGY。

　　　　　　　　　　　　HE　WAS　BORN　IN　RENFREWSHIRE；　SCOTLAND；　ON　THE　6　JULY；　1766；

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　EMIGRATED　TO　THE　UNITED　STATES　IN　THE　YEAR　1794；

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　AND　DIED　IN　PHILADELPHIA；　OF　THE　DYSENTERY；

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　ON　THE　23　AUGUST；　1813；　AGED　47。

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Ingenio　stat　sine　morte　decus。〃


Philadelphia　has　been　called　the；　〃city　of　homes；〃　and　well　does　she　merit　that　　comfortably　sounding　title；　for　it　is　not　a　misnomer。　Unlike　some　other　large　American　cities；　the　artisan　and　laborer　can　here　own　a　home　by　becoming　a　member　of　a　building　association　and　paying　the　moderate　periodical　dues。　　Miles　upon　miles　of　these　cosy　little　houses；　of　five　or　six　rooms　each；　may　be　found；　the　inmates　of　which　are　a　good　and　useful　class　of　citizens；　adding　strength　to　the　city's　discipline　and　　government。

The　grand　park　of　three　thousand　acres；　one　of；　if　not　the　largest　in　the　world；　is　near　at　hand；　where　the　poor　as　well　as　the　rich　can　resort　at　pleasure。　　I　took　leave　of　the　beautiful　and　well　laid…out　city　with　a　pang　of　regret　not　usual　with　canoeists；　who　find　it　best　for　their　comfort　and　peace　of　mind　to　keep　with　their　dainty　crafts　away　from　the　heterogeneous　and　not　over…civil　population　which　gathers　along　the　water…fronts　of　a　port。




CHAPTER　VII。　　PHILADELPHIA　TO　CAPE　HENLOPEN。



DESCENT　OF　DELAWARE　RIVER。　　MY　FIRST　CAMP。　　BOMBAY　HOOK。　　MURDERKILL　CREEK。　　A　STORM　IN　DELAWARE　BAY。　　CAPSIZING　OF　THE　CANOE。　　A　SWIM　FOR　LIFE。　　THE　　PERSIMMON　GROVE。　　WILLOW　GROVE　INN。　　THE　LIGHTS　OF　CAPES　MAY　AND　HENLOPEN。


Monday；　November　9；　was　a　cold；　wet　day。　　Mr。　Knight　and　the　old；　　enthusiastic　gunsmith…naturalist　of　the　city；　Mr。　John　Krider；　assisted　me　to　embark　in　my　now　decked；　provisioned；　and　loaded　canoe。　　The　stock　of　condensed　food　would　easily　last　me　a　month；　while　the　blankets　and　other　parts　of　the　outfit　were　good　for　the　hard　usage　of　four　or　five　months。　　My　friends　shouted　adieu　as　the　little　craft　shot　out　from　the　pier　and　rapidly　descended　the　river　with　the　strong　ebb…tide　which　for　two　hours　was　in　her　favor。　　The　anchorage　of　the　iron　Monitor　fleet　at　League　Island　was　soon　passed；　and　the　great　city　sank　into　the　gloom　of　its　smoke　and　the　clouds　of　rainy　mist　which　enveloped　it。

This　pull　was　an　exceedingly　dreary　one。　The　storms　of　winter　were　at　hand；　and　even　along　the　watercourses　between　Philadelphia　and　　Norfolk；　Virginia；　thin　ice　would　soon　be　forming　in　the　shallow　coves　and　creeks。　　It　would　be　necessary　to　exert　all　my　energies　to　get　south　of　Hatteras；　which　is　located　on　the　North　　Carolina　coast　in　a　region　of　storms　and　local　　disturbances。　　The　canoe；　though　heavily　laden；　behaved　well。　　I　now　enjoyed　the　advantages　resulting　from　the　possession　of　the　new　canvas　deck…cover；　which；　being　fastened　by　buttons　along　each　gunwale　of　the　canoe；　securely　　covered　the　boat；　so　that　the　occasional　swash　sent　aboard　by　wicked　tug…boats　and　large　schooners　did　not　annoy　me　or　wet　my　precious　cargo。

By　two　o'clock　P。　M。　the　rain　and　wind　caused　me　to　seek　shelter　at　Mr。　J。　C。　Beach's　cottage；　at　Markus　Hook；　some　twenty　miles　below　Philadelphia；　and　on　the　same　side　of　the　river。　While　Mr。　Beach　was　varnishing　the　little　craft；　crowds　of　people　came　to　feel　of　the　canoe；　　giving　it　the　usual　punching　with　their　finger…nails；　〃to　see　if　it　were　truly　paper。〃　A　young　　Methodist　minister　with　his　pretty　wife　came　also　to　satisfy　their　curiosity　on　the　paper　question；　but　the　dominie　offered　me　not　a　word　of　　encouragement　in　my　undertaking。　　He　shook　his　head　and　whispered　to　his　wife：　〃A　wild；　wild　　enterprise