voyage of the paper canoe-第22部分

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　twigs　are　dried　by　the　women；　and　when　ready　for　market　are　sold　at　one　dollar　per　bushel。　　It　is　not　to　be　compared　in　　excellence　with　the　tea　of　China；　nor　does　it　approach　in　taste　or　good　qualities　the　well…known　　yerbamate；　another　species　of　holly；　which　is　found　in　Paraguay；　and　is　the　common　drink　of　the　people　of　South　America。

The　old　woman　having　gone　on　her　way；　and　we　being　again　alone　in　the　rude　little　shanty；　the　good…natured　freedman　told　me　his　history；　ending　with；　…


　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃O　that　was　a　glorious　day　for　me；　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　When　Massa　Lincoln　set　me　free。〃


He　had　too　much　ambition；　he　said；　deformed　as　he　was；　to　be　supported　as　a　pauper　by　the　　public。　〃I　can　make　just　about　twelve　dollars　a　month　by　dis　here　ferry；〃　he　exclaimed。　〃I　don't　want　for　nuffin'；　I'se　got　no　wife　　no　woman　will　hab　me。　　I　want　to　support　myself　and　live　an　honest　man。〃

About　seven　o'clock　he　left　me　to　waddle　up　the　road　nearly　a　mile　to　a　little　house。

〃I　an'　another　cullo'd　man　live　in　　partnership；〃　he　said。　　He　could　not　account　for　the　fact　that　I　had　no　fear　of　sleeping　alone　in　the　shanty　on　the　marshes。　　He　went　home　for　the　company　of　his　partner；　as　he　〃didn't　like　to　sleep　alone　noways。〃

Though　the　cold　wind　entered　through　broken　window…lights　and　under　the　rudely　constructed　door；　I　slept　comfortably　until　morning。　　Before　Charles　had　returned；　my　breakfast　was　cooked　and　eaten。

With　the　sunshine　of　the　morning　came　a　new　visitor。　　I　had　made　the　acquaintance　of　the　late　slave；　now　I　received　a　call　from　the　late　master。　　My　visitor　was　a　pleasant；　　gentlemanly　personage；　the　owner　of　the　surrounding　acres。　　His　large　white　house　could　be　seen　from　the　landing；　a　quarter　of　a　mile　up　the　road。

〃I　learned　that　a　stranger　from　the　north　was　camped　here；　and　was　expecting　that　he　would　come　up　and　take　breakfast　with　me；〃　was　his　kindly　way　of　introducing　himself。

I　told　him　I　was　comfortably　established　in　dry　quarters；　and　did　not　feel　justified　in　　forcing　myself　upon　his　hospitality　while　I　had　so　many　good　things　of　this　life　in　my　　provision…basket。

Mr。　Dudley　would　take　no　excuse；　but　　conducted　me　to　his　house；　where　I　remained　that　day；　attending　the　religious　services　in　a　little　church　in　the　vicinity。　　My　kind　host　introduced　me　to　his　neighbors；　several　of　whom　returned　with　us　to　dinner。　　I　found　the　people　about　Pungo　Ferry；　like　those　I　had　met　along　the　sounds　of　the　eastern　shore　of　Maryland　and　Virginia；　very　piously　inclined；　　the　same　　kindhearted；　hospitable　people。

My　host　entertained　me　the　next　day；　which　was　rainy；　with　his　life　in　the　Confederate　army；　in　which　he　served　as　a　lieutenant。　　He　was　a　prisoner　at　Johnson's　Island　for　twenty…two　months。　　He　bore　no　malice　towards　northern　men　who　came　south　to　join　with　the　natives　in　working　for　the　true　interests　of　the　country。　The　people　of　the　south　had　become　weary　of　political　sufferings　inflicted　by　a　floating　　population　from　the　north；　they　needed　actual　settlers；　not　politicians。　　This　sentiment　I　found　　everywhere　expressed。　　On　Tuesday　I　bade　farewell　to　my　new　friends；　and　rowed　down　the　North　Landing　River　towards　Currituck　Sound。

The　North　Carolina　line　is　only　a　few　miles　south　of　the　ferry。　　The　river　enters　the　head　of　the　sound　six　or　eight　miles　below　Pungo　Ferry。　　A　stiff　northerly　breeze　was　blowing；　and　as　the　river　widened；　on　reaching　the　head　of　the　sound；　to　a　mile　or　more；　and　bays　were　to　be　crossed　from　point　to　point；　it　required　the　exercise　of　considerable　patience　and　　muscular　exertion　to　keep　the　sea　from　boarding　the　little　craft　amidship。　　As　I　was　endeavoring　to　weather　a　point；　the　swivel　of　one　of　the　　outriggers　parted　at　its　junction　with　the　row…lock；　and　it　became　necessary　to　get　under　the　south　point　of　the　marshes　for　shelter。

The　lee　side　offered　a　smooth　bay。　　It　was　but　a　few　minutes'　work　to　unload　and　haul　the　canoe　into　the　tall　rushes；　which　afforded　ample　protection　against　the　cold　wind。　　It　was　three　hours　before　the　wind　went　down；　when　the　canoe　was　launched；　and；　propelled　by　the　double　paddle；　（always　kept　in　reserve　against　accidents　to　oars　and　row…locks；）　I　continued　over　the　waters　of　Currituck　Sound。

Swans　could　now　be　seen　in　flocks　of　twenties　and　fifties。　　They　were　exceedingly　wary；　not　permitting　the　canoe　to　approach　within　rifle　range。　　Clouds　of　ducks；　and　some　Canada　geese；　as　well　as　brant；　kept　up　a　continuous　flutter　as　they　rose　from　the　surface　of　the　water。　Away　to　the　southeast　extended　the　glimmering　bosom　of　the　sound；　with　a　few　islands　relieving　its　monotony。　The　three　or　four　houses　and　two　small　storehouses　at　the　landing　of　Currituck　Court　House；　which；　with　the　brick　court…house；　comprise　the　whole　village；　are　situated　on　the　west　bank；　and　opposite；　eight　miles　to　the　　eastward；　is　the　narrow　beach　island　that　serves　as　a　barrier　to　the　ingress　of　the　ocean。

At　sunset　I　started　the　last　flock　of　white　swans；　and　grounded　in　the　shoal　waters　at　the　landing。　　There　is　no　regular　hotel　here；　but　a　kind　lady；　Mrs。　Simmons；　accommodates　the　necessities　of　the　occasional　traveller。　　The　　canoe　was　soon　locked　up　in　the　landing…house。　Fortunately　a　blacksmith　was　found　outside　the　village；　who　promised　to　repair　the　broken　　rowlock　early　upon　the　following　morning。　　Before　a　pleasant　wood　fire　giving　out　its　heat　from　a　grand　old　fireplace；　with　an　agreeable　visitor；　　the　physician　of　the　place；　　the　tediousness　of　the　three…hours'　camp　on　the　marshes　was　soon　forgotten；　while　the　country　and　its　resources　were　fully　discussed　until　a　late　hour。

Dr。　Baxter　had　experimented　in　grape　culture；　and　gave　me　many　interesting　details　in　regard　to　the　native　wine。　In　1714；　Lawson　described　six　varieties　of　native　grapes　found　in　North　Carolina。　Our　three　finest　varieties　of　native　grapes　were　taken　from　North　Carolina。　They　are　the　Scuppernong；　the　Catawba；　and　the　　Isabella。　The　Scuppernong　was　found　upon　the　banks　of　the　stream　bearing　that　name；　the　mouth　of　which　is　near　the　eastern　end　　of　Albemarle　Sound。　The　Catawba　was　originally　　obtained　on　the　Catawba　River；　near　its　head…waters　in　Buncombe　County。　The　Long　Island　stock　of　the　Isabella　grape　was　brought　to　New　York　by　Mrs。　Isabella　Gibbs：　hence　the　derivation　of　the　name。

Of　the　six　varieties　of　North　Carolina　grapes；　five　were　found　in　Tyrrel　County　by　Amadas　and　Barlow。　Tradition　relates　that　these　　travellers　carried　one　small　vine　to　Roanoke　Island；　which　still　lives　and　covers　an　immense　area　of　ground。　There　are　five　varieties　of　the　grape　growing　wild　on　the　shores　of　Albemarle　Sound；　all　of　which　are　called　Scuppernong；　　the　　legitimate　Scuppernong　being　a　white　grape；　sweet　and　large；　and　producing　a　wine　said　to　resemble　somewhat　in　its　luscious　flavor　the　Malmsey　made　on　Mount　Ida；　in　Candia。

The　repairing　of　the　outrigger　detained　me　until　nearly　noon　of　the　next　day；　when　the　canoe　was　got　under　way；　but　upon　rowing　off　the　mouth　of　Coanjock　Bay；　only　four　miles　from　Currituck　Court　House；　a　strong　tempest　arose　from　the　south；　and　observing　an　old　　gentleman　standing　upon　Bell　Island　Point；　near　his　cottage；　beckoning　me　to　come　ashore；　I　obeyed；　and　took　refuge　with　my　new　acquaintance；　　Captain　Peter　L。　Tatum；　proprietor　of　Bell　Island。

〃The　war　has　left　us　without　servants；〃　said　the　captain；　as　he　presented　me　to　his　wife；　〃so　we　make　the　best　of　it；　and　if　you　will　accept　our　hospitality　we　will　make　you　comfortable。〃

Captain　Tatum　drew　my　attention　to　the　flocks　of　swans　which　dotted　the　waters　in　the　offing；　and　said：　〃It　is　hard　work　to　get　hold　of　a　swan；　though　they　are　a　large　bird；　and　abundant　in　Currituck　Sound。　　You　must　use　a　good　rifle　to　bring　one　down。　After　a　strong　norther　has　been　blowing；　and　the　birds　have　worked　well　into　the　bight　of　the　bay；　near　Goose　Castle　Point；　if　the　wind　shifts　to　the　south　suddenly；　gunners　approach　from　the　outside；　and　the　birds　　becoming　cramped　in　the　cove　are　shot　as　they　rise　against　the　wind。〃

More　than　forty　years　ago　old　Currituck　Inlet　closed；　and　the　oysters　on　the　natural　beds；　which　extended　up　North　Landing　River　to　Green　Point；　were　killed　by　the　freshening　of　the　water。　　Now　winds　influence　the　tides　which　enter　at　Oregon　Inlet；　about　fifty…five　miles　south　of　the　Court　House。　The　difference　　between　the　highest　and　lowest　tide　at　Currituck　Court　House　is　three　feet。　The　sound　is　filled　with　sandy　shoals；　with　here　and　there　spots　of　mud。　　The　shells　of　the　defunct　oysters　are　everywhere　found　mixed　with　the　debris　of　the　bottom　of　the　sound。　This　is　a　favorite　locality　with　northern　sportsmen。　　The　best　〃gunning　points；〃　as　is　the　case　in　Chesapeake　Bay；　are　owned　by　private　parties；　and　cannot　be　used　by　the　public。

Thursday；　the　10th　of　December；　was　cold；　and　proved　as　tempestuous　as　the　previous　day；　but　the　wind　had　changed　to　the　north；　and　I　embarked　amid　a　swashy　beam…sea；　with　the　hope　of　reaching　Van　Slyck's　Landing　at　　Currituck　Narrows。　　The　norther；　however；　proved　too　much　for　my　safety。　My　course　would　be　easterly　until　I　had　passed　the　mouth　of　　Coanjock　Bay　and　Goose　Castle　Point；　then　following　the　trend　of　the　west　shore　southerly　down　the　sound；　but　the　wind　raised　such　a　rough　sea　that　I　was　obliged　to　turn　southward　into　　Coanjock　Bay；　ascend　it　five　miles；　and　seek　for　a　crossing…place　overland　to　the　sound　again；　which　I　found　near　the　entrance　of　the　　lockless　canal　that　is　used　by　steamers　to　pass　from　North　Landing　River　to　North　River　and　　Albemarle　Sound。

A　fire　was　soon　built；　upon　which　I　placed　long；　light　poles　taken　from　the　drift…wood；　and　burning　them　in　pieces　of　the　required　lengths；　（no　axe　being　at　hand；）　I　was　prepared　to　make　the　portage。　　Laying　these　pieces　of　wood　on　the　ground；　I　drew　my　canoe　over　them　to　the　shore　of　Currituck　Sound；　then；　by　making　up　back…loads　of　the　cargo；　transported　everything　to　the　point　of　embarkation；　which　was　just　inside　the　mouth　of　a　little　creek。

The　row　to　Currituck　Narrows　was　not　　difficult；　as　the　north　wind　was　a　fair　one。　　Along　the　west　shore　of　the　sound　there　were　many　little　houses　upon　the　high　banks；　and　a　　windmill　supplied　the　place　of　a　water…power　for　grinding　corn。