voyage of the paper canoe-第35部分

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　in　the　true　sense　of　the　word；　are　sent　from　the　negro　colleges　of　the　south　to　lecture　northern　　congregations　upon　the　needs　of　their　race；　and　these　one…quarter；　or　perhaps　three…quarters；　white　men　are；　with　their　intelligence；　and　sometimes　brilliant　oratory；　held　up　as　true　types　of　the　negro　race　by　northerners；　while　there　is；　in　fact；　as　much　difference　between　the　　pureblooded　negro　of　the　rice…field　and　this　false　representative　of　〃his　needs；〃　as　can　well　be　imagined。

An　Irishman；　just　from　the　old　country；　　listened　one　evening　to　the　fascinating　eloquence　of　a　mulatto　freedman。　　The　good　Irishman　had　never　seen　a　pure…blooded　black　man。　The　　orator　said；　〃I　am　only　half　a　black　man。　　My　mother　was　a　slave；　my　father　a　white　planter。〃　〃Be　jabbers；〃　shouted　the　excited　Irishman；　who　was　charmed　with　the　lecturer；　〃if　you　are　only　half　a　nigger；　what　must　a　whole　one　be　like！〃

The　blacks　were　kind　and　civil；　as　they　usually　are　when　fairly　treated。　　They　stood　upon　the　dike　and　shouted　unintelligible　farewells　as　I　descended　the　canal　to　Alligator　Creek。　　This　thoroughfare　soon　carried　me　on　its　salt…water　current　to　the　sea；　for　I　missed　a　narrow　　entrance　to　the　marshes；　called　the　Eye　of　the　Needle　（a　steamboat　thoroughfare）；　and　found　myself　upon　the　calm　sea；　which　pulsated　in　long　swells。　　To　the　south　was　the　low　island　of　Cape　Roman；　which；　like　a　protecting　arm；　guarded　the　quiet　bay　behind　it。　　The　marshes　extended　from　the　main　almost　to　the　cape；　while　upon　the　edge　of　the　rushy　meadows；　upon　an　island　just　inside　of　the　cape；　rose　the　tower　of　Roman　Light。

This　was　the　first　time　my　tiny　shell　had　floated　upon　the　ocean。　　I　coasted　the　sandy　beach　of　the　muddy　lowlands；　towards　the　　lighthouse；　until　I　found　a　creek　debouching　from　the　marsh；　which　I　entered；　and　from　one　　watercourse　to　another；　without　a　chart；　found　my　way　at　dusk　into　Bull's　Bay。　The　see　was　　rolling　in　and　breaking　upon　the　ashore；　which　I　was　forced　to　hug　closely；　as　the　old　disturbers　of　my　peace；　the　porpoises　were　visible；　fishing　in　numbers。　　To　escape　the　dangerous　raccoon　oyster　reefs　of　the　shoal　water　the　canoe　was　forced　into　a　deeper　channel；　when　the　lively　porpoises　chased　the　boat　and　drove　me　back　again　on　to　the　sharp…lipped　shells。　It　was　fast　growing　dark；　and　no　place　of　refuge　nearer　than　the　upland；　a　long　distance　across　the　soft　marsh；　which　was　even　now　wet　with　them。

The　rough　water　of　the　sound；　the　oyster　reefs　which　threatened　to　pierce　my　boat；　and　a　coast　which　would　be　submerged　by　the　next　　floodtide；　all　seemed　to　conspire　against　me。　　Suddenly　my　anxiety　was　relieved；　and　gratitude　filled　my　heart；　as　the　tall　masts　of　a　schooner　rose　out　of　the　marshes　not　far　from　the　upland；　telling　me　that　a　friendly　creek　was　near　at　hand。　Its　wide　mouth　soon　opened　invitingly　before　me；　and　I　rowed　towards　the　beautiful　craft　anchored　in　its　current；　the　trim　rig　of　which　plainly　said　　the　property　of　the　United　States。　An　officer　stood　on　the　quarterdeck　watching　my　approach　through　his　glass；　and；　as　I　was　passing　the　vessel；　a　sailor　remarked　to　his　mates；　〃That　is　the　paper　canoe。　I　was　in　　Norfolk；　last　December；　when　it　reached　the　　Elizabeth　River。〃

The　officer　kindly　hailed　me；　and　offered　me　the　hospitality　of　the　Coast…Survey　schooner　〃Caswell。〃　　In　the　cosiest　of　cabins；　Mr。　W。　H。　Dennis；　with　his　co…laborers　Messrs。　Ogden　and　Bond；　with　their　interesting　conversation　soon　made　me　forget　the　discomforts　of　the　last　three　days　spent　in　the　muddy　flats　among　the　lowland　negroes。　　From　poor；　kind　Seba　Gillings'　black　cabin…floor；　to　the　neat　state…room；　with　its　snowy　sheets　and　clean　towels；　where　fresh；　pure　water　could　be　used　without　stint；　was　indeed　a　　transition。　　The　party　expected　to　complete　their　work　as　far　as　Charleston　harbor　before　the　season　closed。

The　Sunday　spent　on　the　〃Caswell〃　greatly　refreshed　me。　　On　Saturday　evening　Mr。　Dennis　traced　upon　a　sheet　of　paper　my　route　through　the　interior　coast　watercourses　to　Charleston　harbor；　and　I　left　the　pretty　schooner　on　　Monday；　fully　posted　for　my　voyage。　　The　tide　　commenced　flooding　at　eleven　A。　M。；　and　the　flats　soon　afforded　me　water　for　their　passage　in　the　vicinity　of　the　shore。　　Heavy　forests　covered　the　uplands；　where　a　few　houses　were　visible。　Bull's　Island；　with　pines　and　a　few　cabbage　palms；　was　on　my　left　as　I　reached　the　entrance　of　the　southern　thoroughfare　at　the　end　of　the　bay。　Here；　in　the　intricacies　of　creeks　and　passages　through　the　islands；　and　made　careless　by　the　possession　of　Mr。　Dennis'　chart；　I　several　times　blundered　into　the　wrong　course；　and　got　no　further　that　afternoon　than　Price's　Inlet；　though　I　rowed　more　than　twenty　miles。　　Some　eight　miles　of　the　distance　rowed　was　lost　by　　ascending　and　descending　creeks　by　mistake。

After　a　weary　day's　work　shelter　was　found　in　a　house　close　by　the　sea；　on　the　shores　of　Price's　Inlet；　where；　in　company　with　a　young　fisherman；　who　was　in　the　employ　of　Mr。　　Magwood；　of　Charleston；　I　slept　upon　the　floor　in　my　blankets。　Charles　Hucks；　the　fisherman；　asserted　that　three　albino　deer　were　killed　on　Caper's　Island　the　previous　winter。　　Two　were　shot　by　a　negro　while　he　killed　the　third。　　Messrs。　Magwood；　Terry；　and　Noland；　of　Charleston；　one　summer　penned　beside　the　water　one　thousand　old　terrapin；　to　hold　them　over　for　the　winter　season。　　These　〃diamond…backs〃　would　　consume　five　bushels　of　shrimps　in　one　hour　when　fed。　　A　tide　of　unusual　height　washed　out　the　terrapins　from　their　〃crawl；〃　and　with　them　　disappeared　all　anticipated　results　of　the　experiment。

The　next　day；　Caper's　Island　and　Inlet；　　Dewees'　Inlet；　Long　Island；　and　Breach　Inlet　were　successively　passed；　on　strong　tidal　currents。　Sullivan's　Island　is　separated　from　Long　Island　by　Breach　Inlet。　　While　following　the　creeks　in　the　marshes　back　of　Sullivan's　Island；　the　　compact　mass　of　buildings　of　Moultrieville；　at　its　western　end；　at　the　entrance　of　Charleston　　harbor；　rose　imposingly　to　view。

The　gloomy　mantle　of　darkness　was　settling　over　the　harbor　as　the　paper　canoe　stole　quietly　into　its　historic　waters。　　Before　me　lay　the　quiet　bay；　with　old　Fort　Sumter　rising　from　the　watery　plain　like　a　spectral　giant；　as　though　to　remind　one　that　this　had　been　the　scene　of　mighty　struggles。　　The　tranquil　waters　softly　rippled　a　response　to　the　touch　of　my　oars；　all　was　peace　and　quiet　here；　where；　only　a　few　short　years　before；　the　thunder　of　cannon　woke　a　thousand　echoes；　and　the　waves　were　stained　with　the　　lifeblood　of　America；　　where　war；　with　her　iron　throat；　poured　out　destruction；　and　God's　　creatures；　men；　made　after　his　own　image；　　destroyed　each　other　ruthlessly；　having　never；　in　all　that　civilization　had　done　for　them；　discovered　any　other　way　of　settling　their　difficulties　than　by　this　wholesale　murder。

The　actors　In　this　scene　were　scattered　now；　they　had　returned　to　the　farm；　the　workshop；　the　desk；　and　the　pulpit。　　The　old　flag　again　floated　upon　the　ramparts　of　Sumter；　and　a　　government　was　trying　to　reconstruct　itself；　so　that　the　Great　Republic　should　become　more　　thoroughly　a　government　of　the　people；　founded　upon　equal　rights　to　all　men。

A　sharp；　scraping　sound　under　my　boat　roused　me　from　my　revery；　for　I　had　leaned　upon　my　oars　while　the　tide　had　carried　me　slowly　but　surely　upon　the　oyster…reefs；　from　which　I　　escaped　with　some　slight　damage　to　my　paper　shell。　Newspaper　reading　had　impressed　upon　me　a　belief　that　the　citizens　of　the　city　which　played　so　important　a　part　in　the　late　civil　war　might　not　treat　kindly　a　Massachusetts　man。　I　therefore　decided　to　go　up　to　the　city　upon　the　ferry…boat　for　the　large　mail　which　awaited　my　arrival　at　the　Charleston　post…office；　after　　receiving　which　I　intended　to　return　to　Mount　Pleasant；　and　cross　the　bay　to　the　entrance　of　the　southern　watercourses；　leaving　the　city　as　quietly　as　I　entered　it。

My　curiosity　was；　however；　aroused　to　see　how；　under　the　new　reconstruction　rule；　things　were　conducted　in　the　once　proud　city　of　Charleston。　As　I　stood　at　the　window　of　the　post…office　delivery；　and　inquired　through　the　narrow　window　for　my　letters；　a　heavy　shadow　seemed　to　fall　upon　me　as　the　head　of　a　negro　appeared。　　The　black　post…office　official's　　features　underwent　a　sudden　change　as　I　　pronounced　my　name；　and；　while　a　warm　glow　of　affection　lighted　up　his　dark　face；　he　thrust　his　whole　arm　through　the　window；　and　grasped　my　hand　with　a　vigorous　shake　in　the　most　friendly　manner；　as　though　upon　his　shoulders　rested　the　good　name　of　the　people。






〃Welcome　to　Charleston；　Mr。　B____；　welcome　to　our　beautiful　city；〃　he　exclaimed。　　So　this　was　Charleston　under　reconstruction。

After　handing　me　my　mail；　the　postmaster　graciously　remarked；　〃Our　rule　is　to　close　the　office　at　five　o'clock　P。　M。；　but　if　you　are　belated　any　day；　tap　at　the　door；　and　I　will　attend　you。〃

This　was　my　first　welcome　to　Charleston；　but　before　I　could　return　to　my　quarters　at　Mount　Pleasant；　members　of　the　Chamber　of　　Commerce；　the　Carolina　Club；　and　others；　pressed　upon　me　kind　attentions　and　hospitalities；　while　Mr。　James　L。　Frazer；　of　the　South　Carolina　　Regatta　Association；　sent　for　the　Maria　Theresa；　and　placed　it　in　charge　of　the　wharfinger　of　the　Southern　Wharf；　where　many　ladies　and　　gentlemen　visited　it。

When　I　left　the　old　city；　a　few　days　later；　I　blushed　to　think　how　I　had　doubted　these　people；　whose　reputation　for　hospitality　to　strangers　had　been　world…wide　for　more　than　half　a　century。

While　here　I　was　the　guest　of　Rev。　G。　R。　Brackett；　the　well…loved　　pastor　of　one　of　Charleston's　churches。　　It　was　with　feelings　of　regret　I　turned　my　tiny　craft　towards　untried　waters；　leaving　behind　me　the　beautiful　city　of　Charleston；　and　the　friends　who　had　so　kindly　cared　for　the　lonely　canoeist。




CHAPTER　XII。　　FROM　CHARLESTON　TO　SAVANNAH；　GEORGIA。



THE　INTERIOR　WATER　ROUTE　TO　JEHOSSEE　ISLAND。　　GOVERNOR　AIKEN'S　MODEL　RICE　PLANTATION。　　LOST　IN　THE　HORNS。　　ST。　HELENA　SOUND。　　LOST　IN　THE　NIGHT。　　THE　PHANTOM　SHIP。　　A　FINLANDER'S　WELCOME。　　A　NIGHT　ON　THE　　EMPEROR　S　OLD　YACHT。　　THE　PHOSPHATE　MINES。　　COOSAW　AND　BROAD　RIVERS。　　PORT　ROYAL　SOUND　AND　CALIBOQUE　SOUND。　　CUFFY　'S　HOME。　　ARRIVAL　IN　GEORGIA。　　　RECEPTIONS　AT　GREENWICH　SHOOTING…PARK。