voyage of the paper canoe-第43部分

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e　of　exploration；　&c。；　while　his　son；　Mr。　C。　　Wickliffe　Yulee；　exerted　himself　to　remove　all　　impediments　to　delay。

These　gentlemen；　being　native　Floridians；　have　done　much　towards　encouraging　all　　legitimate　exploration　of　the　peninsula；　and　have　also　done　something　towards　putting　a　check　on　the　outrageous　impositions　practised　on　northern　agricultural　emigrants　to　Florida；　by　encouraging　the　organization　of　a　railroad　land…company；　which　offers　a　forty…acre　homestead　for　fifty　　dollars；　to　be　selected　out　of　nearly　six　hundred　thousand　acres　of　land　along　their　highway　across　the　state。　　A　man　of　comparatively　small　means　can　now　try　the　experiment　of　making　a　home　in　the　mild　climate　of　Florida；　and　if　he　afterwards　abandons　the　enterprise　there　will　have　been　but　a　small　investment　of　capital；　and　consequently　little　loss。

The　turpentine　distillery　of　Dutton　was　situated　in　a　heavy　forest　of　lofty　pines。　　Major　C。　K。　Dutton　furnished　a　team　of　mules　to　haul　the　Maria　Theresa　to　the　St。　Mary's　River；　the　morning　after　my　arrival　by　rail　at　Dutton　　Station。　　The　warm　sunshine　shot　aslant　the　tall　pines　as　the　teamster　followed　a　faintly　　developed　trail　towards　the　swamps。　　Before　noon　the　flashing　waters　of　the　stream　were　discernible；　and　a　little　later；　with　paddle　in　hand；　I　was　urging　the　canoe　towards　the　Atlantic　coast。　A　luxurious　growth　of　trees　and　shrubs　fringed　the　low；　and　in　some　places　submerged；　river　shores。　　Back；　on　the　higher；　sandy　soils；　the　yellow　pine　forests；　in　almost　primeval　grandeur；　arose；　shutting　out　all　view　of　the　horizon。　Low　bluffs；　with　white；　sandy　beaches　of　a　few　rods　in　extent；　offered　excellent　camping…grounds。

When　the　Cracker　of　Okefenokee　Swamp　is　asked　why　he　lives　in　so　desolate　a　region；　with　only　a　few　Cattle　and　hogs　for　companions；　with　mosquitoes；　fleas；　and　vermin　about　him；　with　alligators；　catamounts；　and　owls　on　all　sides；　making　night　hideous；　he　usually　replies；　〃Wal；　stranger；　wood　and　water　is　so　powerful　handy。　Sich　privileges　ain't　met　with　everywhar。〃

＇　FROM　ST。　SIMON'S　SOUND；　GEORGIA；　TO　CEDAR　KEYS；　FLORIDA　＇


As　I　glided　swiftly　down　the　dark　current　I　peered　into　the　dense　woods；　hoping　to　be　cheered　by　the　sight　of　a　settler's　cabin；　but　in　all　that　day's　search　not　a　clearing　could　be　found；　nor　could　I　discern　rising　from　the　　treetops　of　the　solitary　forest　a　little　cloud　of　smoke　issuing　from　the　chimney　of　civilized　man。　I　was　alone　in　the　vast　wilds　through　which　the　beautiful　river　flowed　noiselessly　but　swiftly　to　the　sea。　　Thoreau　loved　a　swamp；　and　so　do　all　lovers　of　nature；　for　nowhere　else　does　she　so　bountifully　show　her　vigorous　powers　of　growth；　her　varied　wealth　of　botanical　wonders。　　Here　the　birds　resort　in　flocks　when　weary　of　the　hot；　sandy　uplands；　for　here　they　find　pure　water；　cool　shade；　and　many　a　curious　glossy　berry　for　their　dainty　appetites。

As　the　little　Maria　Theresa　sped　onward　through　the　open　forest　and　tangled　wild…wood；　through　　wet　morass　and　piny　upland；　my　thoughts　dwelt　upon　the　humble　life　of　the　Concord　naturalist　and　philosopher。　　How　he　would　have　enjoyed　the　descent　of　this　wild　river　from　the　swamp　to　the　sea！　　He　had　left　us　for　purer　delights；　but　I　could　enjoy　his　〃Walden〃　as　though　he　still　lived；　and　read　of　his　studies　of　nature　with　ever…increasing　interest。

Swamps　have　their　peculiar　features。　　Those　of　the　Waccamaw　were　indeed　desolate；　while　the　swamps　of　the　St。　Mary's　were　full　of　　sunshine　for　the　traveller。　　Soon　after　the　canoe　had　commenced　her　river　journey；　a　sharp　sound；　like　that　produced　by　a　man　striking　the　water　with　a　broad；　flat　stick；　reached　my　ears。　　As　this　sound　was　frequently　repeated；　and　always　in　advance　of　my　boat；　it　roused　my　curiosity。　It　proved　to　come　from　alligators。　　One　after　another　slipped　off　the　banks；　striking　the　water　with　their　tails　as　they　took　refuge　in　the　river　from　the　disturber　of　their　peace。　　To　observe　the　movements　of　these　reptiles　I　ran　the　canoe　within　two　rods　of　the　left　shore；　and　by　rapid　paddling　was　enabled　to　arrive　opposite　a　　creature　as　he　entered　the　water。　　When　thus　　confronted；　the　alligator　would　depress　his　ugly　head；　lash　the　water　once　with　his　tail；　and　dive　under　the　canoe；　a　most　thoroughly　alarmed　　animal。　　All　these　alligators　were　mere　babies；　very　few　being　over　four　feet　long。　　Had　they　been　as　large　as　the　one　which　greeted　me　at　Colonel's　Island；　I　should　not　have　investigated　their　dispositions；　but　would　have　considered　discretion　the　better　part　of　valor；　and　left　them　undisturbed　in　their　sun…baths　on　the　banks。

In　all　my　experience　with　the　hundreds　of　alligators　I　have　seen　in　the　southern　rivers　and　swamps　of　North　America；　every　one；　both　large　and　small；　fled　at　the　approach　of　man。　The　experience　of　some　of　my　friends　in　their　acquaintance　with　American　alligators　has　been　of　a　more　serious　nature。　　It　is　well　to　exercise　care　about　camping　at　night　close　to　the　water　infested　with　large　saurians；　as　one　of　these　strong　fellows　could　easily　seize　a　sleeping　man　by　the　leg　and　draw　him　into　the　river。　　They　do　not　seem　to　fear　a　recumbent　or　bowed　　figure；　but；　like　most　wild　animals；　flee　before　the　upright　form　of　man。

Late　in　the　afternoon　I　passed　an　island；　made　by　a　〃cut…off〃　through　a　bend　of　the　river；　and；　according　to　previous　directions；　counted　　fourteen　bends　or　reaches　in　the　river　which　was　to　guide　me　to　Stewart's　Ferry；　the　owner　of　which　lived　back　in　the　woods；　his　cabin　not　being　　discernible　from　the　river。　　Near　this　spot；　which　is　occasionally　visited　by　lumbermen　and　　pinywoods　settlers；　I　drew　my　canoe　on　to　a　sandy　beach　one　rod　in　length。　　A　little　bluff；　five　or　six　feet　above　the　water；　furnished　me　with　the　broad　leaves　of　the　saw…palmetto；　a　dwarfish　sort　of　palm；　which　I　arranged　for　a　bed。　　The　　provision…basket　was　placed　at　my　head。　　A　little　fire　of　light…wood　cheered　me　for　a　while；　but　its　bright　flame　soon　attracted　winged　insects　in　large　numbers。　　Having　made　a　cup　of　　chocolate；　and　eaten　some　of　Captain　Akin's　chipped　beef　and　crackers；　I　continued　my　preparations　for　the　night。　　Feeling　somewhat　nervous　about　large　alligators；　I　covered　myself　with　a　piece　of　painted　canvas；　which　was　stiff　and　strong；　and　placed　the　little　revolver；　my　only　weapon；　under　my　blanket。

As　I　fully　realized　the　novelty　of　my　strange　position　in　this　desolate　region；　it　was　some　time　before　I　could　compose　myself　and　sleep。　　It　was　a　night　of　dreams。　　Sounds　indistinct　but　numerous　troubled　my　brain；　until　I　was　fully　roused　to　wakefulness　by　horrible　visions　and　doleful　cries。　　The　chuck…will's…widow；　which　in　the　south　supplies　the　place　of　our　　whippoorwill；　repeated　his　oft…told　tale　of　〃　chuckwill's…widow；　chuck…will's…widow；〃　with　　untiring　earnestness。　　The　owls　hooted　wildly；　with　a　chorus　of　cries　from　animals　and　reptiles　not　recognizable　by　me；　excepting　the　snarling　voices　of　the　coons　fighting　in　the　forest。　　These　last　were　old　acquaintances；　however；　as　they　　frequently　gathered　round　my　camp　at　night　to　pick　up　the　remains　of　supper。

While　I　listened；　there　rose　a　cry　so　hideous　in　its　character　and　so　belligerent　in　its　tone；　that　I　trembled　with　fear　upon　my　palm…leaf　mattress。　It　resembled　the　bellowing　of　an　infuriated　bull；　but　was　louder　and　more　penetrating　in　its　effect。　The　proximity　of　this　animal　was　indeed　　unpleasant；　for　he　had　planted　himself　on　the　　river's　edge；　near　the　little　bluff　upon　which　my　camp　had　been　constructed。　The　loud　roar　was　answered　by　a　similar　bellow　from　the　other　side　of　the　river；　and　for　a　long　time　did　these　two　male　alligators　keep　up　their　challenging　cries；　without　coming　to　combat。　　Numerous　　wood…mice　attacked　my　provision…basket；　and　even　worked　their　way　through　the　leaves　of　my　　palmetto　mattress。

Thus　with　an　endless　variety　of　annoyances　the　night　wore　wearily　away；　but　the　light　of　the　rising　sun　did　not　penetrate　the　thick　fog　which　enveloped　the　river　until　after　eight　o'clock；　when　I　embarked　for　a　second　day's　journey　upon　the　stream；　which　had　now　attained　a　width　of　five　or　six　rods。　　Rafts　of　logs　blocked　the　river　as　I　approached　the　settlement　of　Trader's　Hill；　and　upon　a　most　insecure　footing　the　canoe　was　dragged　over　a　quarter　of　a　mile　of　logs；　and　put　into　the　water　on　the　lower　side　of　the　〃jam。〃　　Crossing　several　of　these　log　〃jams；〃　which　covered　the　entire　width　of　the　St。　Mary's；　I　became　weary　of　the　task；　and；　after　the　last　was　reached；　determined　to　go　into　camp　until　the　next　day；　when　suddenly　the　voices　of　men　in　the　woods　were　heard。

Soon　a　gentleman；　with　two　raftsmen；　　appeared　and　kindly　greeted　me。　　They　had　been　notified　of　my　approach　at　Trader's　Hill　by　a　courier　sent　from　Dutton　across　the　woods；　and　these　men；　whose　knowledge　of　wood…craft　is　wonderful；　had　timed　my　movements　so　　correctly　that　they　had　arrived　just　in　time　to　meet　me　at　this　point。　　The　two　raftsmen　rubbed　the　canoe　all　over　with　their　hands；　and　expressed　delight　at　its　beautiful　finish　in　their　own　　peculiar　vernacular。

〃She's　the　dog…gonedest　thing　I　ever　seed；　and　jist　as　putty　as　a　new　coffin！〃　exclaimed　one。

〃Indeed；　she's　the　handsomest　trick　I　ever　did　blink　on；〃　said　the　second。

The　two　stalwart　lumbermen　lifted　the　boat　as　though　she　were　but　a　feather；　and　carried　her；　jumping　from　log　to　log；　the　whole　length　of　the　raft。　　They　then　put　her　gently　in　the　water；　and　added　to　their　farewell　the　cheering　intelligence　that　〃there's　no　more　jams　nor　rafts　'twixt　here　and　the　sea；　and　you　can　go　clar　on　to　New　York　if　you　like。〃

Trader's　Hill；　on　a　very　high　bluff　on　the　left　bank；　was　soon　passed；　when　the　current　seemed　suddenly　to　cease；　and　I　felt　the　first　tidal　effect　of　the　sea；　though　many　miles　from　the　coast。　The　tide　was　flooding。　　I　now　laid　aside　the　paddle；　and　putting　the　light　steel　outriggers　in　their　sockets；　rapidly　rowed　down　the　now　broad　river　until　the　shadows　of　night　fell　upon　forest　and　stream；　when　the　comfortable　residence　of　Mr。　Lewis　Davis；　with　his　steam　saw…mill；　came　into　sight　upon　Orange　Bluff；　on　the　Florida　side　of　the　river。　　Here　a　kind　welcome　greeted　me　from　host　and　hostess；　who　had　dwelt　twenty　years　in　this　romantic　but　secluded　spot。