letters on sweden, norway, and denmark-第15部分

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ny　years；　and　their　predecessor　lived　near　the　town；　introducing　a　degree　of　profligacy　of　manners　which　has　been　ruinous　to　the　inhabitants　in　every　respect；　their　fortunes　not　being　equal　to　the　prevailing　extravagance。

What　little　I　have　seen　of　the　manners　of　the　people　does　not　please　me　so　well　as　those　of　Tonsberg。　　I　am　forewarned　that　I　shall　find　them　still　more　cunning　and　fraudulent　as　I　advance　towards　the　westward；　in　proportion　as　traffic　takes　place　of　agriculture；　for　their　towns　are　built　on　naked　rocks；　the　streets　are　narrow　bridges；　and　the　inhabitants　are　all　seafaring　men；　or　owners　of　ships；　who　keep　shops。

The　inn　I　was　at　in　Laurvig　this　journey　was　not　the　same　that　I　was　at　before。　　It　is　a　good　onethe　people　civil；　and　the　accommodations　decent。　　They　seem　to　be　better　provided　in　Sweden；　but　in　justice　I　ought　to　add　that　they　charge　more　extravagantly。　My　bill　at　Tonsberg　was　also　much　higher　than　I　had　paid　in　Sweden；　and　much　higher　than　it　ought　to　have　been　where　provision　is　so　cheap。　　Indeed；　they　seem　to　consider　foreigners　as　strangers　whom　they　shall　never　see　again；　and　may　fairly　pluck。　　And　the　inhabitants　of　the　western　coast；　isolated；　as　it　were；　regard　those　of　the　east　almost　as　strangers。　　Each　town　in　that　quarter　seems　to　be　a　great　family；　suspicious　of　every　other；　allowing　none　to　cheat　them　but　themselves；　and；　right　or　wrong；　they　support　one　another　in　the　face　of　justice。

On　this　journey　I　was　fortunate　enough　to　have　one　companion　with　more　enlarged　views　than　the　generality　of　his　countrymen；　who　spoke　English　tolerably。

I　was　informed　that　we　might　still　advance　a　mile　and　a　quarter　in　our　cabrioles；　afterwards　there　was　no　choice；　but　of　a　single　horse　and　wretched　path；　or　a　boat；　the　usual　mode　of　travelling。

We　therefore　sent　our　baggage　forward　in　the　boat；　and　followed　rather　slowly；　for　the　road　was　rocky　and　sandy。　　We　passed；　however；　through　several　beech　groves；　which　still　delighted　me　by　the　freshness　of　their　light　green　foliage；　and　the　elegance　of　their　assemblage；　forming　retreats　to　veil　without　obscuring　the　sun。

I　was　surprised；　at　approaching　the　water；　to　find　a　little　cluster　of　houses　pleasantly　situated；　and　an　excellent　inn。　　I　could　have　wished　to　have　remained　there　all　night；　but　as　the　wind　was　fair；　and　the　evening　fine；　I　was　afraid　to　trust　to　the　windthe　uncertain　wind　of　to…morrow。　　We　therefore　left　Helgeraac　immediately　with　the　declining　sun。

Though　we　were　in　the　open　sea；　we　sailed　more　amongst　the　rocks　and　islands　than　in　my　passage　from　Stromstad；　and　they　often　forced　very　picturesque　combinations。　　Few　of　the　high　ridges　were　entirely　bare；　the　seeds　of　some　pines　or　firs　had　been　wafted　by　the　winds　or　waves；　and　they　stood　to　brave　the　elements。

Sitting；　then；　in　a　little　boat　on　the　ocean；　amidst　strangers；　with　sorrow　and　care　pressing　hard　on　mebuffeting　me　about　from　clime　to　climeI　felt


〃Like　the　lone　shrub　at　random　cast；　That　sighs　and　trembles　at　each　blast！〃


On　some　of　the　largest　rocks　there　were　actually　groves；　the　retreat　of　foxes　and　hares；　which；　I　suppose；　had　tripped　over　the　ice　during　the　winter；　without　thinking　to　regain　the　main　land　before　the　thaw。

Several　of　the　islands　were　inhabited　by　pilots；　and　the　Norwegian　pilots　are　allowed　to　be　the　best　in　the　worldperfectly　acquainted　with　their　coast；　and　ever　at　hand　to　observe　the　first　signal　or　sail。　　They　pay　a　small　tax　to　the　king　and　to　the　regulating　officer；　and　enjoy　the　fruit　of　their　indefatigable　industry。

One　of　the　islands；　called　Virgin　Land；　is　a　flat；　with　some　depth　of　earth；　extending　for　half　a　Norwegian　mile；　with　three　farms　on　it；　tolerably　well　cultivated。

On　some　of　the　bare　rocks　I　saw　straggling　houses；　they　rose　above　the　denomination　of　huts　inhabited　by　fishermen。　　My　companions　assured　me　that　they　were　very　comfortable　dwellings；　and　that　they　have　not　only　the　necessaries；　but　even　what　might　be　reckoned　the　superfluities　of　life。　　It　was　too　late　for　me　to　go　on　shore；　if　you　will　allow　me　to　give　that　name　to　shivering　rocks；　to　ascertain　the　fact。

But　rain　coming　on；　and　the　night　growing　dark；　the　pilot　declared　that　it　would　be　dangerous　for　us　to　attempt　to　go　to　the　place　of　our　destinationEast　Rusoera　Norwegian　mile　and　a　half　further；　and　we　determined　to　stop　for　the　night　at　a　little　haven；　some　half　dozen　houses　scattered　under　the　curve　of　a　rock。　　Though　it　became　darker　and　darker；　our　pilot　avoided　the　blind　rocks　with　great　dexterity。

It　was　about　ten　o'clock　when　we　arrived；　and　the　old　hostess　quickly　prepared　me　a　comfortable　beda　little　too　soft　or　so；　but　I　was　weary；　and　opening　the　window　to　admit　the　sweetest　of　breezes　to　fan　me　to　sleep；　I　sunk　into　the　most　luxurious　rest：　　it　was　more　than　refreshing。　　The　hospitable　sprites　of　the　grots　surely　hovered　round　my　pillow；　and；　if　I　awoke；　it　was　to　listen　to　the　melodious　whispering　of　the　wind　amongst　them；　or　to　feel　the　mild　breath　of　morn。　　Light　slumbers　produced　dreams；　where　Paradise　was　before　me。　　My　little　cherub　was　again　hiding　her　face　in　my　bosom。　I　heard　her　sweet　cooing　beat　on　my　heart　from　the　cliffs；　and　saw　her　tiny　footsteps　on　the　sands。　　New…born　hopes　seemed；　like　the　rainbow；　to　appear　in　the　clouds　of　sorrow；　faint；　yet　sufficient　to　amuse　away　despair。

Some　refreshing　but　heavy　showers　have　detained　us；　and　here　I　am　writing　quite　alonesomething　more　than　gay；　for　which　I　want　a　name。

I　could　almost　fancy　myself　in　Nootka　Sound；　or　on　some　of　the　islands　on　the　north…west　coast　of　America。　　We　entered　by　a　narrow　pass　through　the　rocks；　which　from　this　abode　appear　more　romantic　than　you　can　well　imagine；　and　seal…skins　hanging　at　the　door　to　dry　add　to　the　illusion。

It　is　indeed　a　corner　of　the　world；　but　you　would　be　surprised　to　see　the　cleanliness　and　comfort　of　the　dwelling。　　The　shelves　are　not　only　shining　with　pewter　and　queen's　ware；　but　some　articles　in　silver；　more　ponderous；　it　is　true；　than　elegant。　　The　linen　is　good；　as　well　as　white。　　All　the　females　spin；　and　there　is　a　loom　in　the　kitchen。　　A　sort　of　individual　taste　appeared　in　the　arrangement　of　the　furniture　（this　is　not　the　place　for　imitation）　and　a　kindness　in　their　desire　to　oblige。　　How　superior　to　the　apish　politeness　of　the　towns！　where　the　people；　affecting　to　be　well　bred；　fatigue　with　their　endless　ceremony。

The　mistress　is　a　widow；　her　daughter　is　married　to　a　pilot；　and　has　three　cows。　　They　have　a　little　patch　of　land　at　about　the　distance　of　two　English　miles；　where　they　make　hay　for　the　winter；　which　they　bring　home　in　a　boat。　　They　live　here　very　cheap；　getting　money　from　the　vessels　which　stress　of　weather；　or　other　causes；　bring　into　their　harbour。　　I　suspect；　by　their　furniture；　that　they　smuggle　a　little。　　I　can　now　credit　the　account　of　the　other　houses；　which　I　last　night　thought　exaggerated。

I　have　been　conversing　with　one　of　my　companions　respecting　the　laws　and　regulations　of　Norway。　　He　is　a　man　within　great　portion　of　common　sense　and　heartyes；　a　warm　heart。　　This　is　not　the　first　time　I　have　remarked　heart　without　sentiment；　they　are　distinct。　The　former　depends　on　the　rectitude　of　the　feelings；　on　truth　of　sympathy；　these　characters　have　more　tenderness　than　passion；　the　latter　has　a　higher　sourcecall　it　imagination；　genius；　or　what　you　will；　it　is　something　very　different。　　I　have　been　laughing　with　these　simple　worthy　folkto　give　you　one　of　my　half…score　Danish　wordsand　letting　as　much　of　my　heart　flow　out　in　sympathy　as　they　can　take。　　Adieu！　　I　must　trip　up　the　rocks。　　The　rain　is　ever。　　Let　me　catch　pleasure　on　the　wingI　may　be　melancholy　to…morrow。　　Now　all　my　nerves　keep　time　with　the　melody　of　nature。　　Ah！　let　me　be　happy　whilst　I　can。　　The　tear　starts　as　I　think　of　it。　　I　must　flee　from　thought；　and　find　refuge　from　sorrow　in　a　strong　imagination　the　only　solace　for　a　feeling　heart。　　Phantoms　of　bliss！　ideal　forms　of　excellence！　again　enclose　me　in　your　magic　circle；　and　wipe　clear　from　my　remembrance　the　disappointments　that　reader　the　sympathy　painful；　which　experience　rather　increases　than　damps；　by　giving　the　indulgence　of　feeling　the　sanction　of　reason。

Once　more　farewell！



LETTER　XI。



I　left　Portoer；　the　little　haven　I　mentioned；　soon　after　I　finished　my　last　letter。　　The　sea　was　rough；　and　I　perceived　that　our　pilot　was　right　not　to　venture　farther　during　a　hazy　night。　　We　had　agreed　to　pay　four　dollars　for　a　boat　from　Helgeraac。　　I　mention　the　sum；　because　they　would　demand　twice　as　much　from　a　stranger。　　I　was　obliged　to　pay　fifteen　for　the　one　I　hired　at　Stromstad。　　When　we　were　ready　to　set　out；　our　boatman　offered　to　return　a　dollar　and　let　us　go　in　one　of　the　boats　of　the　place；　the　pilot　who　lived　there　being　better　acquainted　with　the　coast。　　He　only　demanded　a　dollar　and　a　half；　which　was　reasonable。　　I　found　him　a　civil　and　rather　intelligent　man；　he　was　in　the　American　service　several　years；　during　the　Revolution。

I　soon　perceived　that　an　experienced　mariner　was　necessary　to　guide　us；　for　we　were　continually　obliged　to　tack　about；　to　avoid　the　rocks；　which；　scarcely　reaching　to　the　surface　of　the　water；　could　only　be　discovered　by　the　breaking　of　the　waves　over　them。

The　view　of　this　wild　coast；　as　we　sailed　along　it；　afforded　me　a　continual　subject　for　meditation。　　I　anticipated　the　future　improvement　of　the　world；　and　observed　how　much　man　has　still　to　do　to　obtain　of　the　earth　all　it　could　yield。　　I　even　carried　my　speculations　so　far　as　to　advance　a　million　or　two　of　years　to　the　moment　when　the　earth　would　perhaps　be　so　perfectly　cultivated；　and　so　completely　peopled；　as　to　render　it　necessary　to　inhabit　every　spotyes；　these　bleak　shores。　　Imagination　went　still　farther；　and　pictured　the　state　of　man　when　the　earth　could　no　longer　support　him。　　Whither　was　he　to　flee　from　universal　famine？　　Do　not　smile；　I　really　became　distressed　for　these　fellow　creatures　yet　unborn。　　The　images　fastened　on　me；　and　the　world　appeared　a　vast　prison。　　I　was　soon　to　be　in　a　smaller　onefor　no　other　name　can　I　give　to　Rusoer。　It　would　be　difficult　to　form　an　idea　of　the　place；　if　you　have　never　seen　one　of　these　rocky　coasts。

We　were