the works of edgar allan poe-2-第9部分
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threw myself upon my face; and clung to the scant herbage in an
excess of nervous agitation。
〃This;〃 said I at length; to the old man … 〃this _can_ be nothing
else than the great whirlpool of the Maelstr鰉。〃
〃So it is sometimes termed;〃 said he。 〃We Norwegians call it the
Moskoe…str鰉; from the island of Moskoe in the midway。〃
The ordinary accounts of this vortex had by no means prepared me
for what I saw。 That of Jonas Ramus; which is perhaps the most
circumstantial of any; cannot impart the faintest conception either
of the magnificence; or of the horror of the scene … or of the wild
bewildering sense of _the novel_ which confounds the beholder。 I am
not sure from what point of view the writer in question surveyed it;
nor at what time ; but it could neither have been from the summit of
Helseggen; nor during a storm。 There are some passages of his
description; nevertheless; which may be quoted for their details;
although their effect is exceedingly feeble in conveying an
impression of the spectacle。
〃Between Lofoden and Moskoe;〃 he says; 〃the depth of the water is
between thirty…six and forty fathoms ; but on the other side; toward
Ver (Vurrgh) this depth decreases so as not to afford a convenient
passage for a vessel; without the risk of splitting on the rocks;
which happens even in the calmest weather。 When it is flood; the
stream runs up the country between Lofoden and Moskoe with a
boisterous rapidity ; but the roar of its impetuous ebb to the sea
is scarce equalled by the loudest and most dreadful cataracts ; the
noise being heard several leagues off; and the vortices or pits are
of such an extent and depth; that if a ship comes within its
attraction; it is inevitably absorbed and carried down to the bottom;
and there beat to pieces against the rocks ; and when the water
relaxes; the fragments thereof are thrown up again。 But these
intervals of tranquility are only at the turn of the ebb and flood;
and in calm weather; and last but a quarter of an hour; its violence
gradually returning。 When the stream is most boisterous; and its fury
heightened by a storm; it is dangerous to come within a Norway mile
of it。 Boats; yachts; and ships have been carried away by not
guarding against it before they were within its reach。 It likewise
happens frequently; that whales come too near the stream; and are
overpowered by its violence; and then it is impossible to describe
their howlings and bellowings in their fruitless struggles to
disengage themselves。 A bear once; attempting to swim from Lofoden to
Moskoe; was caught by the stream and borne down; while he roared
terribly; so as to be heard on shore。 Large stocks of firs and pine
trees; after being absorbed by the current; rise again broken and
torn to such a degree as if bristles grew upon them。 This plainly
shows the bottom to consist of craggy rocks; among which they are
whirled to and fro。 This stream is regulated by the flux and reflux
of the sea … it being constantly high and low water every six hours。
In the year 1645; early in the morning of Sexagesima Sunday; it raged
with such noise and impetuosity that the very stones of the houses on
the coast fell to the ground。〃
In regard to the depth of the water; I could not see how this
could have been ascertained at all in the immediate vicinity of the
vortex。 The 〃forty fathoms〃 must have reference only to portions of
the channel close upon the shore either of Moskoe or Lofoden。 The
depth in the centre of the Moskoe…str鰉 must be immeasurably greater
; and no better proof of this fact is necessary than can be obtained
from even the sidelong glance into the abyss of the whirl which may
be had from the highest crag of Helseggen。 Looking down from this
pinnacle upon the howling Phlegethon below; I could not help smiling
at the simplicity with which the honest Jonas Ramus records; as a
matter difficult of belief; the anecdotes of the whales and the
bears; for it appeared to me; in fact; a self…evident thing; that the
largest ship of the line in existence; coming within the influence of
that deadly attraction; could resist it as little as a feather the
hurricane; and must disappear bodily and at once。
The attempts to account for the phenomenon … some of which; I
remember; seemed to me sufficiently plausible in perusal … now wore a
very different and unsatisfactory aspect。 The idea generally received
is that this; as well as three smaller vortices among the Ferroe
islands; 〃have no other cause than the collision of waves rising and
falling; at flux and reflux; against a ridge of rocks and shelves;
which confines the water so that it precipitates itself like a
cataract ; and thus the higher the flood rises; the deeper must the
fall be; and the natural result of all is a whirlpool or vortex; the
prodigious suction of which is sufficiently known by lesser
experiments。〃 … These are the words of the Encyclop鎑ia Britannica。
Kircher and others imagine that in the centre of the channel of the
Maelstr鰉 is an abyss penetrating the globe; and issuing in some very
remote part … the Gulf of Bothnia being somewhat decidedly named in
one instance。 This opinion; idle in itself; was the one to which; as
I gazed; my imagination most readily assented ; and; mentioning it
to the guide; I was rather surprised to hear him say that; although
it was the view almost universally entertained of the subject by the
Norwegians; it nevertheless was not his own。 As to the former notion
he confessed his inability to comprehend it ; and here I agreed with
him … for; however conclusive on paper; it becomes altogether
unintelligible; and even absurd; amid the thunder of the abyss。
〃You have had a good look at the whirl now;〃 said the old man;
〃and if you will creep round this crag; so as to get in its lee; and
deaden the roar of the water; I will tell you a story that will
convince you I ought to know something of the Moskoe…str鰉。〃
I placed myself as desired; and he proceeded。
〃Myself and my two brothers once owned a schooner…rigged smack of
about seventy tons burthen; with which we were in the habit of
fishing among the islands beyond Moskoe; nearly to Vurrgh。 In all
violent eddies at sea there is good fishing; at proper opportunities;
if one has only the courage to attempt it ; but among the whole of
the Lofoden coastmen; we three were the only ones who made a regular
business of going out to the islands; as I tell you。 The usual
grounds are a great way lower down to the southward。 There fish can
be got at all hours; without much risk; and therefore these places
are preferred。 The choice spots over here among the rocks; however;
not only yield the finest variety; but in far greater abundance ; so
that we often got in a single day; what the more timid of the craft
could not scrape together in a week。 In fact; we made it a matter of
desperate speculation … the risk of life standing instead of labor;
and courage answering for capital。
〃We kept the smack in a cove about five miles higher up the coast
than this ; and it was our practice; in fine weather; to take
advantage of the fifteen minutes' slack to push across the main
channel of the Moskoe…str鰉; far above the pool; and then drop down
upon anchorage somewhere near Otterholm; or Sandflesen; where the
eddies are not so violent as elsewhere。 Here we used to remain until
nearly time for slack…water again; when we weighed and made for home。
We never set out upon this expedition without a steady side wind for
going and coming … one that we felt sure would not fail us before our
return … and we seldom made a mis…calculation upon this point。 Twice;
during six years; we were forced to stay all night at anchor on
account of a dead calm; which is a rare thing indeed just about here
; and once we had to remain on the grounds nearly a week; starving
to death; owing to a gale which blew up shortly after our arrival;
and made the channel too boisterous to be thought of。 Upon this
occasion we should have been driven out to sea in spite of
everything; (for the whirlpools threw us round and round so
violently; that; at length; we fouled our anchor and dragged it) if
it had not been that we drifted into one of the innumerable cross
currents … here to…day and gone to…morrow … which drove us under the
lee of Flimen; where; by good luck; we brought up。
〃I could not tell you the twentieth part of the difficulties we
encountered 'on the grounds' … it is a bad spot to be in; even in
good weather … but we made shift always to run the gauntlet of the
Moskoe…str鰉 itself without accident ; although at times my heart
has been in my mouth when we happened to be a minute or so behind or
before the slack。 The wind sometimes was not as strong as we thought
it at starting; and then we made rather less way than we could wish;
while the current rendered the smack unmanageable。 My eldest brother
had a son eighteen years old; and I had two stout boys of my own。
These would have been of great assistance at such times; in using the
sweeps; as well as afterward in fishing … but; somehow; although we
ran the risk ourselves; we had not the heart to let the young ones
get into the danger … for; after all is said and done; it _was_ a
horrible danger; and that is the truth。
〃It is now within a few days of three years since what I am going
to tell you occurred。 It was on the tenth day of July; 18…; a day
which the people of this part of the world will never forget … for it
was one in which blew the most terrible hurricane that ever came out
of the heavens。 And yet all the morning; and indeed until late in the
afternoon; there was a gentle and steady breeze from the south…west;
while the sun shone brightly; so that the oldest seaman among us
could not have foreseen what was to follow。
〃The three of us … my two brothers and myself … had crossed over
to the islands about two o'clock P。 M。; and had soon nearly loaded
the smack with fine fish; which; we all remarked; were more plenty
that day than we had ever known them。 It was just seven; _by my
watch_; when we weighed and started for home; so as to make the worst
of the Str鰉 at slack