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air　being　　only　left　at　the　lower　part。　　If　they　wore　the　turban；　or　barret；　　they　could　scarcely　be　distinguished　from　the　Moors　in　dress；　but　　in　lieu　thereof　they　wear　the　sombrero　or　broad　slouching　hat　of　　Spain。　　There　can　be　little　doubt　that　they　are　a　remnant　of　those　　Goths　who　sided　with　the　Moors　on　their　invasion　of　Spain；　and　who　　adopted　their　religion；　customs；　and　manner　of　dress；　which；　with　　the　exception　of　the　first；　are　still　to　a　considerable　degree　　retained。　　It　is；　however；　evident　that　their　blood　has　at　no　time　　mingled　with　that　of　the　wild　children　of　the　desert；　for　scarcely　　amongst　the　hills　of　Norway　would　you　find　figures　and　faces　more　　essentially　Gothic　than　those　of　the　Maragatos。　　They　are　strong；　　athletic　men；　but　loutish　and　heavy；　and　their　features；　though　for　　the　most　part　well…formed；　are　vacant　and　devoid　of　expression。　　　They　are　slow　and　plain　in　speech；　and　those　eloquent　and　　imaginative　sallies　so　common　in　the　conversation　of　other　　Spaniards　seldom　or　never　escape　them；　they　have；　moreover；　a　　coarse；　thick　pronunciation；　and　when　you　hear　them　speak；　you　　almost　imagine　that　it　is　some　German　or　English　peasant　attempting　　to　express　himself　in　the　language　of　the　Peninsula。　　They　are　　constitutionally　phlegmatic；　and　it　is　very　difficult　to　arouse　　their　anger；　but　they　are　dangerous　and　desperate　when　once　　incensed；　and　a　person　who　knew　them　well　told　me　that　he　would　　rather　face　ten　Valencians；　people　infamous　for　their　ferocity　and　　blood…thirstiness；　than　confront　one　angry　Maragato；　sluggish　and　　stupid　though　he　be　on　other　occasions。

The　men　scarcely　ever　occupy　themselves　in　husbandry；　which　they　　abandon　to　the　females；　who　plough　the　flinty　fields　and　gather　in　　the　scanty　harvests。　　Their　husbands　and　sons　are　far　differently　　employed；　for　they　are　a　nation　of　ARRIEROS　or　carriers；　and　almost　　esteem　it　a　disgrace　to　follow　any　other　profession。　　On　every　road　　of　Spain；　particularly　those　north　of　the　mountains　which　divide　　the　two　Castiles；　may　be　seen　gangs　of　fives　and　sixes　of　these　　people　lolling　or　sleeping　beneath　the　broiling　sun　on　their　　gigantic　and　heavily　laden　mutes　and　mules；　the　boast　of　Spain；　but　　dearly　purchased　by　the　debasement　and　degeneration　of　a　once　noble　　breed　of　horses。　　In　a　word；　almost　the　entire　commerce　of　nearly　　one　half　of　Spain　passes　through　the　hands　of　the　Maragatos；　whose　　fidelity　to　their　trust　is　such　that　no　one　accustomed　to　employ　　them　would　hesitate　to　entrust　them　with　the　transport　of　a　ton　of　　treasure　from　the　sea　of　Biscay　to　Madrid；　knowing　well　that　it　　would　not　be　their　fault　were　it　not　delivered　safe　and　　undiminished　even　of　a　grain；　and　that　bold　must　be　the　thieves　who　　would　seek　to　wrest　it　from　the　far…feared　Maragatos；　who　would　　cling　to　it　whilst　they　could　stand；　and　would　cover　it　with　their　　bodies　when　they　fell　in　the　act　of　loading　or　discharging　their　　long　carbines。

But　they　are　far　from　being　disinterested；　and　if　they　are　the　most　　trustworthy　of　all　the　ARRIEROS　of　Spain；　they　in　general　demand　　for　the　transport　of　articles　a　sum　at　least　double　of　what　others　　of　the　trade　would　esteem　a　reasonable　recompense。　　By　this　means　　they　accumulate　large　sums　of　money；　notwithstanding　that　they　　indulge　themselves　in　a　far　superior　fare　to　that　which　contents　in　　general　the　parsimonious　Spaniard　…　another　argument　in　favour　of　　their　pure　Gothic　descent；　for　the　Maragatos；　like　true　men　of　the　　north；　delight　in　swilling　liquors　and　battening　upon　gross　and　　luscious　meats；　which　help　to　swell　out　their　tall　and　goodly　　figures。　　Many　of　them　have　died　possessed　of　considerable　riches；　　part　of　which　they　have　not　unfrequently　bequeathed　to　the　erection　　or　embellishment　of　religious　houses。　　On　the　east　end　of　the　　cathedral　of　Astorga；　which　towers　over　the　lofty　and　precipitous　　wall；　a　colossal　figure　of　lead　may　be　seen　on　the　roof。　　It　is　the　　statue　of　a　Maragato　carrier；　who　endowed　the　cathedral　with　a　　large　sum。　　He　is　in　his　national　dress；　but　his　head　is　averted　　from　the　land　of　his　fathers；　and　whilst　he　waves　in　his　hand　a　　species　of　flag；　he　seems　to　be　summoning　his　race　from　their　　unfruitful　region　to　other　climes　where　a　richer　field　is　open　to　　their　industry　and　enterprise。

I　spoke　to　several　of　these　men　respecting　the　all…important　　subject　of　religion；　but　'I　found　their　hearts　blunted；　and　with　　their　ears　they　heard　heavily；　and　their　eyes　were　closed。'　　There　　was　one　in　particular　to　whom　I　showed　the　New　Testament　and　　addressed　for　a　considerable　time。　　He　listened；　or　seemed　to　　listen；　patiently；　taking　occasional　copious　draughts　from　an　　immense　jug　of　whitish　wine　which　stood　between　his　knees。　　After　I　　had　concluded；　he　said：　　'To…morrow　I　set　out　for　Lugo；　whither　I　　am　told　yourself　are　going。　　If　you　wish　to　send　your　chest；　I　have　　no　objection　to　take　it　at　so　much　（naming　an　extravagant　price）。　　　As　for　what　you　have　told　me；　I　understand　little　of　it　and　believe　　not　a　word　of　it；　but　in　respect　to　the　books　which　you　have　shown　　me；　I　will　take　three　or　four。　　I　shall　not　read　them；　it　is　true；　　but　I　have　no　doubt　that　I　can　sell　them　at　a　higher　price　than　you　　demand。'

So　much　for　the　Maragatos。

It　was　four　o'clock　of　a　beautiful　morning　that　we　sallied　from　　Astorga；　or　rather　from　the　suburbs　in　which　we　had　been　lodged；　we　　directed　our　course　to　the　north　in　the　direction　of　Galicia。　　　Leaving　the　mountain　Telleno　on　our　left；　we　passed　along　the　　eastern　skirts　of　the　land　of　the　Maragatos　over　broken　uneven　　ground；　enlivened　here　and　there　by　small　green　valleys　and　runs　of　　water。　　Several　of　the　Maragato　women　mounted　on　donkeys　passed　us　　on　their　way　to　Astorga　whither　they　were　carrying　vegetables；　we　　saw　others　in　the　fields　handling　their　rude　ploughs　drawn　by　lean　　oxen；　we　likewise　passed　through　a　small　village　in　which　we　　however　saw　no　living　soul。　　Near　this　village　we　entered　the　high　　road　which　leads　direct　from　Madrid　to　Corunna；　and　at　last　having　　travelled　near　four　leagues　we　came　to　a　species　of　pass　formed　on　　our　left　by　a　huge　lumpish　hill　（one　of　those　which　descend　from　　the　great　mountain　Telleno）；　and　on　our　right　by　one　of　　considerably　less　altitude。　　In　the　middle　of　this　pass　which　was　　of　considerable　breadth；　a　noble　view　opened　itself　to　us。　　Before　　us；　at　the　distance　of　about　a　league　and　a　half；　rose　the　mighty　　frontier　chain　of　which　I　have　spoken　before；　its　blue　sides　and　　broken　and　picturesque　peaks　still　wearing　a　thin　veil　of　the　　morning　mist；　which　the　fierce　rays　of　the　sun　were　fast　　dispelling。　　It　seemed　an　enormous　barrier　threatening　to　oppose　　our　further　progress；　and　it　reminded　me　of　the　fables　respecting　　the　children　of　Magog；　who　are　said　to　reside　in　remotest　Tartary　　behind　a　gigantic　wall　of　rocks　which　can　only　be　passed　by　a　gate　　of　steel　a　thousand　cubits　in　height。

We　shortly　after　arrived　at　Manzanal；　a　village　consisting　of　　wretched　huts；　and　exhibiting　every　sign　of　poverty　and　misery。　　It　　was　now　time　to　refresh　ourselves　and　horses；　and　we　accordingly　　put　up　at　a　kind　of　VENTA；　the　last　habitation　in　the　village；　　where；　though　we　found　barley　for　the　animals；　we　had　much　　difficulty　in　procuring　anything　for　ourselves。　　I　was　at　last　　fortunate　enough　to　obtain　a　large　jug　of　milk；　for　there　were　　plenty　of　cows　in　the　neighbourhood　feeding　in　a　picturesque　valley　　which　we　had　passed　by；　in　which　there　was　abundance　of　grass　and　　trees　and　a　run　of　water　broken　by　tiny　cascades。　　The　jug　might　　contain　about　half　a　gallon；　but　I　emptied　it　in　a　few　minutes；　for　　the　thirst　of　fever　was　still　burning　within　me　though　I　was　　destitute　of　appetite。　　The　VENTA　had　something　the　appearance　of　a　　German　baiting　house。　　It　consisted　of　an　immense　stable；　from　　which　was　partitioned　a　kind　of　kitchen　and　a　place　where　the　　family　slept。　　The　master；　a　robust　young　man；　lolled　on　a　large　　solid　stone　bench　which　stood　within　the　door。　　He　was　very　　inquisitive　respecting　news；　but　I　could　afford　him　none；　whereupon　　he　became　communicative；　and　gave　me　the　history　of　his　life；　the　　sum　of　which　was　that　he　had　been　a　courier　in　the　Basque　　provinces；　but　about　a　year　since　had　been　despatched　to　this　　village　where　he　kept　the　post…house。　　He　was　an　enthusiastic　　liberal；　and　spoke　in　bitter　terms　of　the　surrounding　population；　　who；　he　said；　were　all　Carlists　and　friends　of　the　friars。　　I　paid　　little　attention　to　his　discourse；　for　I　was　looking　at　a　Maragato　　lad　of　about　fourteen　who　served　in　the　house　as　a　kind　of　ostler。　　　I　asked　the　master　if　we　were　still　in　the　land　of　the　Maragatos；　　but　he　told　me　that　we　had　left　it　behind　nearly　a　league；　and　that　　the　lad　was　an　orphan；　and　was　serving　until　he　could　rake　up　a　　sufficient　capital　to　become　an　ARRIERO。　　I　addressed　several　　questions　to　the　boy；　but　the　urchin　looked　sullenly　in　my　face；　　and　either　answered　by　monosyllables　or　was　doggedly　silent。　　I　　asked　him　if　he　could　read：　　'Yes；'　said　he；　'as　much　as　that　black　　brute　of　yours　who　is　tearing　down　the　manger。'

Quitting　Manzanal；　we　continued　our　course；　the　ground　gradually　　descending；　we　soon　arrived　at　a　place　where　the　road　took　a　turn　　to　the　west；　though　previously　it　had　tended　due　north。　　We　now　　found　that　we　had　to　descend　the　steep　sides　of　a　deep　and　narrow　　valley　which　wound　amongst　mountains；　not　those　of　the　chain　which　　we　had　seen　before　us　and　which　we　had　left　at　our　right；　but　those　　of　the　Telleno　range；　just　before　they　unite　with　that　chain。　　　Arrived　at　the　brink　of　the　valley　we　turned　into　a　foot…path；　to　　avoid　making　a　considerable　circuit；　for　we　saw　the　road　on　the　　other　side　of　the　valley　opposite　to　us　about　a　furlong　＇distant＇；　　and　the　path　appeared　to　lead　direct　towards　it。　　We　had　not　gone　　far　before　we　met　two　Galicians　on　their　way　to　cut　the　harvests　of　　Castile。　　One　of　them　shouted；　'Cavalier；　turn　back：　　in　a　moment　　you　will　be　amongst　precipices　where　your　horses　will　break　their　　necks；　for　we　ourselves　could　scarcely　climb　them　on　foot。'　　The　　other　cried；　'Cavalier；　proceed；　but　be　careful；　and　your　horses；　　if　sure…footed；　will　run　no　great　danger；　my　comrade　is　a　foo