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summits；　　till　it　was　lost　in　interminable　space。　　Other　flashes　and　peals　　succeeded；　but　slight　in　comparison；　and　a　few　drops　of　rain；　the　　body　of　the　tempest　seemed　to　be　over　another　region。　　'A　hundred　　families　are　weeping　where　that　bolt　fell；'　said　the　peasant；　when　　I　rejoined　him；　'for　its　blaze　has　blinded　my　mule　at　six　leagues'　　distance。'　　He　was　leading　the　animal　by　the　bridle；　as　its　sight　　was　evidently　affected。　　'Were　the　friars　still　in　their　nest　above　　there；'　he　continued；　'I　should　say　that　this　was　their　doing；　for　　they　are　the　cause　of　all　the　miseries　of　the　land。'

I　raised　my　eyes　in　the　direction　in　which　he　pointed。　　Half…way　up　　the　mountain　over　whose　foot　we　were　wending　jutted　forth　a　black；　　frightful　crag；　which　at　an　immense　altitude　overhung　the　road　and　　seemed　to　threaten　destruction。　　It　resembled　one　of　those　ledges　　of　the　rocky　mountains　in　the　picture　of　the　deluge；　up　to　which　　the　terrified　fugitives　have　scrambled　from　the　eager　pursuit　of　　the　savage　and　tremendous　billow；　down　on　which　they　are　gazing　in　　horror；　whilst　above　them　rise　still　higher　and　giddier　heights　to　　which　they　seem　unable　to　climb。　　Built　on　the　very　rim　of　this　　crag　stood　an　edifice；　seemingly　devoted　to　the　purposes　of　　religion；　as　I　could　discern　the　spire　of　a　church　rearing　itself　　high　over　wall　and　roof。　　'That　is　the　house　of　〃The　Virgin　of　the　　Rocks；〃'　said　the　peasant；　'and　it　was　lately　full　of　friars；　but　　they　have　been　driven　out；　and　the　only　inmates　now　are　owls　and　　ravens。'　　I　replied　that　their　life　in　such　a　bleak　exposed　abode　　could　not　have　been　very　enviable；　as　in　winter　they　must　have　　incurred　great　risk　of　perishing　with　cold。　　'By　no　means；'　said　　he；　'they　had　the　best　of　wood　for　their　BRASEROS　and　chimneys；　and　　the　best　of　wine　to　warm　them　at　their　meals；　which　were　not　the　　most　sparing；　moreover　they　had　another　convent　down　in　the　vale　　yonder；　to　which　they　could　retire　at　their　pleasure。'　　I　asked　him　　the　reason　of　his　antipathy　to　the　friars；　to　which　he　replied　that　　he　had　been　their　vassal；　and　that　they　had　deprived　him　every　year　　of　the　flower　of　what　he　possessed。　　Discoursing　in　this　manner　we　　reached　a　village　just　below　the　convent；　where　he　left　me；　having　　first　pointed　out　to　me　a　house　of　stone　with　an　image　over　the　　door；　which　he　said　once　also　belonged　to　the　CANALLA　（rabble）　　above。

The　sun　was　setting　fast；　and；　eager　to　reach　Villafranca；　where　I　　had　determined　on　resting　and　which　was　still　distant　three　leagues　　and　a　half；　I　made　no　halt　at　this　place。　　The　road　was　now　down　a　　rapid　and　crooked　descent　which　terminated　in　a　valley；　at　the　　bottom　of　which　was　a　long　and　narrow　bridge。　　Beneath　it　rolled　a　　river　descending　from　a　wide　pass　between　two　mountains；　for　the　　chain　was　here　cleft　probably　by　some　convulsion　of　nature。　　I　　looked　up　the　pass　and　on　the　hills　on　both　sides。　　Far　above　on　my　　right；　but　standing　out　bold　and　clear；　and　catching　the　last　rays　　of　the　sun；　was　'the　Convent　of　the　Precipices'；　whilst　directly　　over　against　it；　on　the　further　side　of　the　valley；　rose　the　　perpendicular　side　of　the　rival　hill　which；　to　a　considerable　　extent　intercepting　the　light；　flung　its　black　shadow　over　the　　upper　end　of　the　pass；　involving　it　in　mysterious　darkness。　　　Emerging　from　the　centre　of　this　gloom　with　thundering　sound　dashed　　a　river；　white　with　foam　and　bearing　along　with　it　huge　stones　and　　branches　of　trees；　for　it　was　the　wild　Sil；　probably　at　that　＇time＇　　swollen　by　the　recent　rains；　which　I　now　saw　hurrying　to　the　ocean　　from　its　cradle　in　the　heart　of　the　Asturian　hills。　　Its　fury；　its　　roar；　and　the　savage　grandeur　of　the　surrounding　scenery　which　was　　worthy　of　the　pencil　of　Salvator　recalled　to　my　mind　the　powerful　　lines　of　Stolberg　addressed　to　a　mountain　torrent　…


'The　pine…trees　are　shaken；　they　yield　to　thy　shocks；　And；　crashing；　they　tumble　in　wild　disarray；　The　rocks　fly　before　thee　…　thou　seizest　the　rocks　And　whirlst　them；　like　pebbles；　contemptuous　away。'


Hours　again　passed　away。　　It　was　now　night；　and　we　were　in　the　　midst　of　woodlands；　feeling　our　way；　for　the　darkness　was　so　great　　that　I　could　scarcely　see　the　length　of　a　yard　before　my　horse's　　head。　　The　animal　seemed　uneasy；　and　would　frequently　stop　short；　　prick　up　his　ears；　and　utter　a　low　mournful　whine。　　Flashes　of　　sheet…lightning　frequently　illumed　the　black　sky　and　flung　a　　momentary　glare　over　our　path。　　No　sound　interrupted　the　stillness　　of　the　night　save　the　slow　tramp　of　the　horses'　hoofs；　and　　occasionally　the　croaking　of　frogs　from　some　pool　or　morass。　　I　now　　bethought　me　that　I　was　in　Spain；　the　chosen　land　of　the　two　　fiends；　assassination　and　plunder；　and　how　easily　two　tired　unarmed　　wanderers　might　become　their　victims。　　We　at　last　cleared　the　　woodlands；　and　after　proceeding　a　short　distance　the　horse　gave　a　　joyous　neigh　and　broke　into　a　smart　trot。　　A　barking　of　dogs　　speedily　reached　my　ears；　and　we　seemed　to　be　approaching　some　town　　or　village。　　In　effect　we　were　close　to　Cacabelos；　a　town　about　　five　miles　distant　from　Villafranca。

It　was　now　near　eleven　at　night；　and　I　reflected　that　it　would　be　　far　more　expedient　to　tarry　in　this　place　till　the　morning　than　to　　attempt　at　present　to　reach　Villafranca；　exposing　ourselves　to　all　　the　horrors　of　darkness　in　a　lonely　and　unknown　road。　　My　mind　was　　soon　made　up　on　this　point　…　but　I　determined　without　my　hosts；　for　　at　the　first　POSADA　which　I　attempted　to　enter　I　was　told　that　we　　could　not　be　accommodated；　and　particularly　our　horses；　as　the　　stable　was　full　of　water。　　At　the　second　（there　were　but　two）；　I　　was　answered　from　the　window　by　a　gruff　voice　nearly　in　the　words　　of　Scripture：　　'Trouble　me　not；　the　gate　is　already　locked；　and　my　　servants　are　also　with　me　in　bed；　I　cannot　arise　to　let　you　in。'　　　Indeed　we　had　no　particular　desire　to　enter；　as　it　appeared　a　　wretched　hovel；　though　the　poor　horses　pawed　piteously　against　the　　door；　and　seemed　to　crave　admittance。

We　had　now　no　choice　but　to　resume　our　doleful　way　to　Villafranca；　　which　we　were　told　was　a　short　league　distant；　though　it　proved　a　　league　and　a　half。　　We　however　found　it　no　easy　matter　to　quit　the　　town；　for　we　were　bewildered　amongst　its　labyrinths　and　could　not　　find　the　outlet。　　A　lad　about　eighteen　was；　however；　persuaded　by　　the　promise　of　a　PESETA　to　guide　us；　whereupon　he　led　us　by　many　　turnings　to　a　bridge　which　he　told　us　to　cross　and　to　follow　the　　road；　which　was　that　of　Villafranca；　he　then；　having　received　his　　fee；　hastened　from　us。

We　followed　his　directions；　not；　however；　without　a　suspicion　that　　he　might　be　deceiving　us。　　The　night　had　settled　darker　down　upon　　us；　so　that　it　was　impossible　to　distinguish　any　object；　however　　nigh。　　The　lightning　had　become　more　faint　and　rare。　　We　heard　the　　rustling　of　trees　and　occasionally　the　barking　of　dogs；　which　last　　sound；　however；　soon　ceased；　and　we　were　in　the　midst　of　night　and　　silence。　　My　horse；　either　from　weariness　or　the　badness　of　the　　road；　frequently　stumbled；　whereupon　I　dismounted；　and　leading　him　　by　the　bridle；　soon　left　my　companion　far　in　the　rear。　　I　had　　proceeded　in　this　manner　a　considerable　way　when　a　circumstance　　occurred　of　a　character　well　suited　to　the　time　and　place。

I　was　again　amidst　trees　and　bushes；　when　the　horse；　stopping　　short；　nearly　pulled　me　back。　　I　know　not　how　it　was；　but　fear　　suddenly　came　over　me；　which；　though　in　darkness　and　in　solitude；　I　　had　not　felt　before。　　I　was　about　to　urge　the　animal　forward；　when　　I　heard　a　noise　at　my　right　hand；　and　listened　attentively。　　It　　seemed　to　be　that　of　a　person　or　persons　forcing　their　way　through　　branches　and　brushwood。　　It　soon　ceased；　and　I　heard　feet　on　the　　road。　　It　was　the　short；　staggering　kind　of　tread　of　people　　carrying　a　very　heavy　substance；　nearly　too　much　for　their　　strength；　and　I　thought　I　＇heard＇　the　hurried　breathing　of　men　　over…fatigued。　　There　was　a　short　pause　in　the　middle　of　the　road；　　then　the　stamping　recommenced　until　it　reached　the　other　side；　when　　I　again　heard　a　similar　rustling　amidst　branches；　it　continued　for　　some　time；　and　died　gradually　away。

I　continued　my　road；　musing　on　what　had　just　occurred　and　forming　　conjectures　as　to　the　cause。　　The　lightning　resumed　its　flashing；　　and　I　saw　that　I　was　approaching　tall　black　mountains　…　But　I　will　　omit　further　particulars　of　this　midnight　journey。

'QUIEN　VIVE；'　roared　a　voice　about　an　hour　from　this　time；　for　I　　had　at　last　groped　my　way　to　Villafranca。　　It　proceeded　from　the　　sentry　at　the　suburb；　one　of　those　singular　half　soldiers；　half　　GUERILLAS；　called　Miguelets；　who　are　in　general　employed　by　the　　Spanish　Government　to　clear　the　roads　of　robbers。　　I　gave　the　usual　　answer　'ESPANA；'　and　went　up　to　the　place　where　he　stood。　　After　a　　little　conversation；　I　sat　down　on　a　stone；　awaiting　the　arrival　of　　Antonio；　who　was　long　in　making　his　appearance。　　On　his　arrival　I　　asked　him　if　any　one　had　passed　him　on　the　road；　but　he　replied　　that　he　had　seen　nothing。　　The　night；　or　rather　morning；　was　still　　very　dark；　though　a　small　corner　of　the　moon　was　occasionally　　visible。　　On　our　enquiring　the　way　to　the　gate；　the　Miguelet　　directed　us　down　a　street　to　the　left；　which　we　followed。　　The　　street　was　steep；　we　could　see　no　gate；　and　our　progress　was　soon　　stopped　by　houses　and　wall。　　We　knocked　at　the　gates　of　two　or　　three　of　these　houses　（in　the　upper　stories　of　which　lights　were　　burning）　for　the　purpose　of　being　set　right；　but　we　were　either　　disregarded　or　not　heard。　　A　horrid　squalling　of　cats　from　the　tops　　of　the　houses　and　dark　corners　saluted　our　ears；　and　I　thought　of　　the　night…arrival　of　Don　Quixote　and　his　squire　at　Tobosa；　and　　their　vain　search　amongst　the　deserted　streets　for　the　palace　of　　Dulcinea。　　At　length　we　saw　light　and　heard　voices　in　a　cottage　at　　the　further　side　of　a　kind　of　ditch。　　Leading　the　horses　over；　we　　called　at　the　door；　which　was　opened　by　an　aged　man；　who　appeared　　by　his　dress　to　be　a　baker；　as　indeed　he　proved；　which　accounted　　for　his　being　up　at　so　late　an　hour。　　On　begging　him　to　show　us　the　　way　into　the　town；　he　led　us　up　a　very　narrow　alley　at　the　end　of　　his　cottage；　saying　that　he　would　l