cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第6部分

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their　several　employers。　Because　the　market　of　Larnaca　was　well　supplied
with　woodcocks；　red…legged　partridges；　and　hares；　at　low　prices；　these
overworked　gentlemen　of　the　pen　rushed　to　a　conclusion　that　the　island
teemed　with　game：　forgetful　of　the　fact　that　every　Cypriote　has　a　gun；
and　that　numbers　were　shooting　for　the　consumption　of　the　few。　Larnaca
was　the　common　centre　towards　which　all　gravitated。　As　the　rate　of　wages
was　only　one　shilling　a　day；　it　may　be　imagined　that　sport　afforded　an
equally　remunerative　employment；　and　game　was　forwarded　from　all
distances　to　be　hawked　about　the　public　thoroughfares。　The　fact　is；　that
game　is　very　scarce　throughout　Cyprus；　and　the　books　that　have　been
written　upon　this　country　are　certainly　not　the　productions　of
sportsmen。

I　had　read　in　no　mean　authority　that　〃the　surface　of　the　ground　was
covered　with　heather〃positively　there　is　no　such　plant　in　Cyprus　as
heath　or　heather。　As　we　passed　the　outskirts　of　Larnaca；　we　were
introduced　to　the　misery　of　the　plain　of　Messaria；　the　so…called　heather
is　a　low　thorny　bush　about　twelve　inches　high；　which　at　a　distance　has
some　resemblance　to　the　plant　in　question。　Brown　is　the　prevailing
colour　in　this　portion　of　the　island；　and　the　aspect　was　not　cheerful　as
we　slowly　marched　along　the　native　track　or　highway　towards　Arpera；
carefully　avoiding　the　new　government　macadamised　road。

It　is　a　melancholy　neighbourhood。　A　few　graves　that　had　been　robbed　were
open；　forming　pitfalls　for　the　unwary；　other　yawning　holes　had
discovered　ancient　tombs　by　the　soakage　of　a　recent　heavy　shower；　which
had　washed　in　the　roof　and　exposed　the　cavity。　We　passed　a　small　mosque
where　there　is　the　tomb　of　a　saint　many　feet　below　the　level　of　the
surface；　and　we　shortly　came　in　view　of　the　salt　lake　about　a　mile　and
three…quarters　from　the　town　of　Larnaca。　We　halted　about　two　miles　from
the　town　upon　the　high　ground　to　admire　the　aqueduct　which　crosses　the
valley　from　the　village　of　Cheflik　Pacha。　This　is　a　very　important　work。
The　masonry　is　about　thirty…six　feet　above　the　lowest　portion　of　the
valley；　which　it　spans　in　thirty…two　arches；　covering　a　distance　of
about　four　hundred　and　twenty　yards　from　height　to　height。　The　water
flows　in　an　open　canal　of　cement　along　the　surface；　but　upon　the　ground
level　it　is　protected　by　a　covering　of　stone　and　lime；　until　it　reaches
the　town　of　Larnaca。　A　stream　of　fresh　water　flows　through　the　valley
beneath　the　arches　of　the　aqueduct；　at　a　right　angle；　and　is
artificially　separated　from　the　salt　lake　below　by　means　of　a　dyke　of
earth　which　conducts　it　direct　to　the　sea。　This　was　rendered　necessary
by　the　floods　of　the　rainy　seasons；　which　carried　so　large　a　volume　of
fresh　water　into　the　lake　as　to　resist　the　power　of　evaporation　during
the　summer　months。　The　salt　lakes　of　Larnaca　are　several　miles　in
extent；　and　are　computed　by　the　late　British　consul；　Mr。　Watkins；　to
possess　a　productive　power　of　20；000；000　okes　（2　3/4　lbs。）　per　annum。　M。
Gaudry；　in　his　clever　work　upon　Cyprus；　attributes　the　formation　of　salt
to　the　fact　of　the　sea…water　percolating　through　the　sand；　and　thus
filling　the　lake；this　theory　is　disputed；　and　I　incline　to　the　native
belief；　〃that　the　salt　lies　within　the　soil；　and　is　taken　into　solution
by　the　water；　which　deposits　the　same　amount　upon　the　dry　surface　when
exhausted　by　evaporation。〃　In　support　of　this　opinion；　I　adduce　a　proof
in　the　fact　of　the　small　freshwater　stream　which　flows　from　the　higher
ground　through　the　arches　of　the　aqueduct；　depositing　salt　as　its
surface　contracts　during　the　dry　season。

A　strong　efflorescence　of　true　chloride　of　sodium　is　left　upon　the　sides
of　its　bed　and　upon　the　bottom　as　the　water　becomes　exhausted；　this　must
be　the　salt　which　the　fresh　water　has　robbed　from　the　soil　of　the　valley
through　which　it　flows。　In　many　portions　of　Cyprus　I　have　observed；　a
few　days　after　a　heavy　shower；　a　considerable　amount　of　salt　upon　the
surface。　I　know　many　instances　of　fresh…water　lakes　being　divided　from
the　sea　by　only　a　few　yards　of　sandy　beach；　and　I　do　not　accept　as　fact
that　salt　water　percolates　through　the　sand　and　forms　the　salt　of
Larnaca　lake。　The　salt　lakes　of　Ceylon；　in　the　south　district　of
Hambantotte；　are　immensely　productive；　and　they　have　no　communication
with　the　sea；　but　are　in　a　similar　position　to　those　of　Cyprus　at
Larnaca　and　Limasolnear　the　sea；　but　depending　for　their　water…supply
upon　natural　springs　and　rain。　There　can　be　no　doubt　that　the　springs
are　salt；　and　the　rain…water　dissolves　the　salt　that　is　naturally
contained　within　the　soil。　M。　Gaudry　observed　a　portion　of　the　plain
near　Trichomo　covered　with　an　efflorescence　of　soda；　which　by　analysis
yielded　about　two…thirds　of　sulphate　of　soda；　with　a　large　proportion　of
sulphate　of　magnesia　and　other　salts。　Many　wells　in　Cyprus　are　salt；　or
brackish。　The　lowest　ground　of　the　marshy　plain　near　Famagousta　contains
salt　to　a　degree　sufficient　to　destroy　the　young　cereals；　should　rain
not　be　abundant；　and　during　the　drought　of　this　year　（1879）；　they　were
the　first　to　perish；　although　in　a　damp　locality。

Salt　is　a　government　monopoly　in　Cyprus；　and　is　one　of　the　most
important　sources　of　revenue。　In　the　reign　of　the　Lusignan　dynasty；　and
from　a　much　earlier　date；　the　produce　of　the　salt　lakes　formed　one　of
the　chief　articles　of　export；　and　arrangements　were　made　for　regulating
the　amount　of　water　to　ensure　the　requisite　evaporation。　At　the　present
time　considerable　uncertainty　attends　the　collection　of　salt；　as　a
violent　rainfall　floods　the　lakes　and　weakens　the　solution。　There　can　be
no　doubt　that　a　few　years'　experience　and　attention　will　enable　the
authorities　to　improve　upon　the　present　arrangement；　and　that　not　only
will　the　annual　supply　be　assured；　but　the　foreign　demand　will　be
extended。

We　passed　the　valley　beyond　the　aqueduct　and；　ascending　the　steep
incline　upon　the　opposite　side；　followed　the　rutty　native　track　parallel
with　the　water…course；　we　halted　for　the　first　night　opposite　the
village　of　Cheflik　Pacha。　This　is　an　unhealthy　place；　as　it　lies　in　a
valley　where　a　mill　is　turned　by　a　stream　from　the　aqueduct　and　the
surplus　water　forms　a　marsh　after　irrigating　in　a　careless　manner　some
fields　and　gardens。　Lemon　and　orange…trees　of　the　largest　size　were
crowded　with　fruit；　and　exhibited　in　the　midst　of　a　treeless　and
desolate　country　the　great　necessity；　WATER；　and　the　productive　powers
of　the　soil　when　regularly　supplied。

I　was　careful　not　to　descend　into　the　irrigated　bottom；　therefore　we　had
halted　on　the　highest　point；　a　quarter　of　a　mile　distant。　It　is
impossible　to　be　too　careful　in　the　selection　of　a　camping…ground；　the
effect　of　fever…germs　may　be　the　result　of　one　night's　bivouac　in　an
unhealthy　locality；　and　a　new　country　is　frequently　stamped　as
pestilential　from　the　utter　carelessness　of　the　traveller　or　officer　in
command　of　troops。

As　a　general　rule　the　immediate　neighbourhood　of　water　should　be
avoided。　A　clear　stream　is　a　tempting　object；　and　the　difficulty　of
carrying　water　for　the　supply　of　troops　is　important；　but　it　is　less
than　the　necessity　of　carrying　the　sick。　If　once　the　fever　of　malaria
attacks　an　individual　he　becomes　unfitted　for　his　work；　the　blood　is
poisoned；　and　he　is　the　victim　of　renewed　attacks　which　baffle　medical
skill　and　lead　to　other　serious　complications。　Avoid　the　first　attack。
This　may　generally　be　effected　by　the　careful　selection　of　the
camping…ground。　Never　halt　in　a　bottom；　but　always　on　a　height。
Throughout　my　journey　in　Cyprus　neither　ourselves　nor　servants　suffered
from　any　ailment；　although　we　visited　every　portion　of　the　country；　and
I　attribute　this　immunity　from　fever　mainly　to　the　care　in　our　selection
of　halting…places。

The　first　necessity　in　the　evening　halt　was　fire。　This　is　one　of　the
troubles　of　central　Cyprusthere　is　no　fuel。　The　two　vans　and　the
native　cart　were　in　a　linethe　bell…tent　was　quickly　pitched　for　the
servants；　who　now　for　the　first　time　experienced　the　comfort　of　an
arrangement　I　had　made　when　in　England。　I　had　seven　deal　battens；　each
seven　feet　long；　four　inches　deep；　by　two　and　a　half　inches　broad。　These
were　laid　upon　the　ground　twelve　inches　apart；　seven　planks；　each　one
foot　wide；　were　placed　across　the　battens　to　form　an　impromptu　floor。
Upon　this　platform　was　laid　a　non…conductor　of　simply　doubled　hair…felt；
sewed　into　a　thin　mattress　of　light　canvas。　There　was　very　little
trouble　in　this　arrangement；　the　men　were　kept　well　off　the　ground；　and
the　hair…felt　not　only　preserved　their　bodily　heat　from　escaping；　but　it
prevented　the　damp　of　the　earth　from　ascending。　This　mattress　was　ten
feet　long；　therefore　it　could　be　rolled　up　to　form　a　bolster　at　one　end；
and；　during　a　hot　sun；　it　was　intended　for　a　cover　to　the　roof　of　the
gipsy　van。

The　first　day's　start　is　always　in　the　afternoon；　and　the　march　is
short。　We　had　only　made　three　miles；　and　it　was　nearly　dark　when　we
halted。　The　absence　of　fuel　necessitates　the　great　trouble　of　carrying　a
supply　of　charcoal；　and　it　destroys　the　pleasure　of　the　cheerful
night…fires　that　usually　enliven　the　bivouac　in　wild　countries。　The
plants　and　herbs　that　grow　in　Cyprus　are　all　prickly；　thus　groping　in
the　dark　for　the　first　inflammable　material　to　produce　the
fire…foundation　is　unpleasant。　There　is　a　highly　aromatic　but　very
prickly　species　of　wild　thyme：　this　is　always　sought　for；　and　at　all
times　responds　to　the　match。

The　first　night　is　always　novel；　in　spite　of　old　experiences。　We　pricked
our　hands　in　raking　up　thorny　plants；　but　a　useful　implement；　which
combined　the　broad　hoe　on　one　side　with　a　light　pick　on　the　other；
lessened　our　labour；　and　we　produced　a　blaze；　this　was　bright　but
transient；　as　the　fuel　was　unsubstantial。　The　dinner　was　quickly　warmed；
as　it　consisted　of　tins　of　preserved　meats；　and；　climbing　up　the　ladder；
the　gipsy　van　presented　such　a　picture　of　luxury　that　if　the　world　were
girded　by　a　good　road　instead　of　a　useless　equator　I　should　like　to　be
perpetually　circum…vanning　it。

On　the　following　morning　the　thermometer　marked　40　degrees。　The　natives
were　early　at　work；　ploughing　land　that　wa