the oregon trail-第1部分

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The　Oregon　Trail：　Sketches　of　Prairie　and　Rocky…Mountain　Life
by　Francis　Parkman；　Jr。


CONTENTS

I　　THE　FRONTIER
II　　BREAKING　THE　ICE
III　　FORT　LEAVENWORTH
IV　　〃JUMPING　OFF〃
V　　〃THE　BIG　BLUE〃
VI　　THE　PLATTE　AND　THE　DESERT
VII　　THE　BUFFALO
VIII　　TAKING　FRENCH　LEAVE
IX　　SCENES　AT　FORT　LARAMIE
X　　THE　WAR　PARTIES
XI　　SCENES　AT　THE　CAMP
XII　　ILL　LUCK
XIII　　HUNTING　INDIANS
XIV　　THE　OGALLALLA　VILLAGR
XV　　THE　HUNTING　CAMP
XVI　　THE　TRAPPERS
XVII　　THE　BLACK　HILLS
XVIII　　A　MOUNTAIN　HUNT
XIX　　PASSAGE　OF　THE　MOUNTAINS
XX　　THE　LONELY　JOURNEY
XXI　　THE　PUEBLO　AND　BENT'S　FORT
XXII　　TETE　ROUGE；　THE　VOLUNTEER
XXIII　　INDIAN　ALARMS
XXIV　　THE　CHASE
XXV　　THE　BUFFALO　CAMP
XXVI　　DOWN　THE　ARKANSAS
XXVII　　THE　SETTLEMENTS


CHAPTER　I　THE　FRONTIER

Last　spring；　1846；　was　a　busy　season　in　the　City　of　St。　Louis。　　Not　　only　were　emigrants　from　every　part　of　the　country　preparing　for　the　　journey　to　Oregon　and　California；　but　an　unusual　number　of　traders　　were　making　ready　their　wagons　and　outfits　for　Santa　Fe。　　Many　of　the　　emigrants；　especially　of　those　bound　for　California；　were　persons　of　　wealth　and　standing。　　The　hotels　were　crowded；　and　the　gunsmiths　and　　saddlers　were　kept　constantly　at　work　in　providing　arms　and　　equipments　for　the　different　parties　of　travelers。　　Almost　every　day　　steamboats　were　leaving　the　levee　and　passing　up　the　Missouri；　　crowded　with　passengers　on　their　way　to　the　frontier。　In　one　of　these；　the　Radnor；　since　snagged　and　lost；　my　friend　and　　relative；　Quincy　A。　Shaw；　and　myself；　left　St。　Louis　on　the　28th　of　　April；　on　a　tour　of　curiosity　and　amusement　to　the　Rocky　Mountains。　　　The　boat　was　loaded　until　the　water　broke　alternately　over　her　　guards。　　Her　upper　deck　was　covered　with　large　weapons　of　a　peculiar　　form；　for　the　Santa　Fe　trade；　and　her　hold　was　crammed　with　goods　for　　the　same　destination。　　There　were　also　the　equipments　and　provisions　　of　a　party　of　Oregon　emigrants；　a　band　of　mules　and　horses；　piles　of　　saddles　and　harness；　and　a　multitude　of　nondescript　articles；　　indispensable　on　the　prairies。　　Almost　hidden　in　this　medley　one　　might　have　seen　a　small　French　cart；　of　the　sort　very　appropriately　　called　a　〃mule…killer〃　beyond　the　frontiers；　and　not　far　distant　a　　tent；　together　with　a　miscellaneous　assortment　of　boxes　and　barrels。　　　The　whole　equipage　was　far　from　prepossessing　in　its　appearance；　yet；　　such　as　it　was；　it　was　destined　to　a　long　and　arduous　journey；　on　　which　the　persevering　reader　will　accompany　it。　The　passengers　on　board　the　Radnor　corresponded　with　her　freight。　　In　　her　cabin　were　Santa　Fe　traders；　gamblers；　speculators；　and　　adventurers　of　various　descriptions；　and　her　steerage　was　crowded　　with　Oregon　emigrants；　〃mountain　men；〃　negroes；　and　a　party　of　Kansas　　Indians；　who　had　been　on　a　visit　to　St。　Louis。　Thus　laden；　the　boat　struggled　upward　for　seven　or　eight　days　against　　the　rapid　current　of　the　Missouri；　grating　upon　snags；　and　hanging　　for　two　or　three　hours　at　a　time　upon　sand…bars。　　We　entered　the　　mouth　of　the　Missouri　in　a　drizzling　rain；　but　the　weather　soon　　became　clear；　and　showed　distinctly　the　broad　and　turbid　river；　with　　its　eddies；　its　sand…bars；　its　ragged　islands；　and　forest…covered　　shores。　　The　Missouri　is　constantly　changing　its　course；　wearing　away　　its　banks　on　one　side；　while　it　forms　new　ones　on　the　other。　　Its　　channel　is　shifting　continually。　　Islands　are　formed；　and　then　washed　　away；　and　while　the　old　forests　on　one　side　are　undermined　and　swept　　off；　a　young　growth　springs　up　from　the　new　soil　upon　the　other。　　　With　all　these　changes；　the　water　is　so　charged　with　mud　and　sand　　that　it　is　perfectly　opaque；　and　in　a　few　minutes　deposits　a　sediment　　an　inch　thick　in　the　bottom　of　a　tumbler。　　The　river　was　now　high；　　but　when　we　descended　in　the　autumn　it　was　fallen　very　low；　and　all　　the　secrets　of　its　treacherous　shallows　were　exposed　to　view。　　It　was　　frightful　to　see　the　dead　and　broken　trees；　thick…set　as　a　military　　abatis；　firmly　imbedded　in　the　sand；　and　all　pointing　down　stream；　　ready　to　impale　any　unhappy　steamboat　that　at　high　water　should　pass　　over　that　dangerous　ground。　In　five　or　six　days　we　began　to　see　signs　of　the　great　western　　movement　that　was　then　taking　place。　　Parties　of　emigrants；　with　　their　tents　and　wagons；　would　be　encamped　on　open　spots　near　the　　bank；　on　their　way　to　the　common　rendezvous　at　Independence。　　On　a　　rainy　day；　near　sunset；　we　reached　the　landing　of　this　place；　which　　is　situated　some　miles　from　the　river；　on　the　extreme　frontier　of　　Missouri。　　The　scene　was　characteristic；　for　here　were　represented　at　　one　view　the　most　remarkable　features　of　this　wild　and　enterprising　　region。　　On　the　muddy　shore　stood　some　thirty　or　forty　dark　slavish…　looking　Spaniards；　gazing　stupidly　out　from　beneath　their　broad　hats。　　　They　were　attached　to　one　of　the　Santa　Fe　companies；　whose　wagons　　were　crowded　together　on　the　banks　above。　　In　the　midst　of　these；　　crouching　over　a　smoldering　fire；　was　a　group　of　Indians；　belonging　　to　a　remote　Mexican　tribe。　　One　or　two　French　hunters　from　the　　mountains　with　their　long　hair　and　buckskin　dresses；　were　looking　at　　the　boat；　and　seated　on　a　log　close　at　hand　were　three　men；　with　　rifles　lying　across　their　knees。　　The　foremost　of　these；　a　tall；　　strong　figure；　with　a　clear　blue　eye　and　an　open；　intelligent　face；　　might　very　well　represent　that　race　of　restless　and　intrepid　pioneers　　whose　axes　and　rifles　have　opened　a　path　from　the　Alleghenies　to　the　　western　prairies。　　He　was　on　his　way　to　Oregon；　probably　a　more　　congenial　field　to　him　than　any　that　now　remained　on　this　side　the　　great　plains。　Early　on　the　next　morning　we　reached　Kansas；　about　five　hundred　miles　　from　the　mouth　of　the　Missouri。　　Here　we　landed　and　leaving　our　　equipments　in　charge　of　my　good　friend　Colonel　Chick；　whose　log…house　　was　the　substitute　for　a　tavern；　we　set　out　in　a　wagon　for　Westport；　　where　we　hoped　to　procure　mules　and　horses　for　the　journey。　It　was　a　remarkably　fresh　and　beautiful　May　morning。　　The　rich　and　　luxuriant　woods　through　which　the　miserable　road　conducted　us　were　　lighted　by　the　bright　sunshine　and　enlivened　by　a　multitude　of　birds。　　　We　overtook　on　the　way　our　late　fellow…travelers；　the　Kansas　Indians；　　who；　adorned　with　all　their　finery；　were　proceeding　homeward　at　a　　round　pace；　and　whatever　they　might　have　seemed　on　board　the　boat；　　they　made　a　very　striking　and　picturesque　feature　in　the　forest　　landscape。　Westport　was　full　of　Indians；　whose　little　shaggy　ponies　were　tied　by　　dozens　along　the　houses　and　fences。　　Sacs　and　Foxes；　with　shaved　　heads　and　painted　faces；　Shawanoes　and　Delawares；　fluttering　in　　calico　frocks；　and　turbans；　Wyandottes　dressed　like　white　men；　and　a　　few　wretched　Kansas　wrapped　in　old　blankets；　were　strolling　about　the　　streets；　or　lounging　in　and　out　of　the　shops　and　houses。　As　I　stood　at　the　door　of　the　tavern；　I　saw　a　remarkable　looking　　person　coming　up　the　street。　　He　had　a　ruddy　face；　garnished　with　the　　stumps　of　a　bristly　red　beard　and　mustache；　on　one　side　of　his　head　　was　a　round　cap　with　a　knob　at　the　top；　such　as　Scottish　laborers　　sometimes　wear；　his　coat　was　of　a　nondescript　form；　and　made　of　a　　gray　Scotch　plaid；　with　the　fringes　hanging　all　about　it；　he　wore　　pantaloons　of　coarse　homespun；　and　hob…nailed　shoes；　and　to　complete　　his　equipment；　a　little　black　pipe　was　stuck　in　one　corner　of　his　　mouth。　　In　this　curious　attire；　I　recognized　Captain　C。　of　the　　British　army；　who；　with　his　brother；　and　Mr。　R。；　an　English　　gentleman；　was　bound　on　a　hunting　expedition　across　the　continent。　　I　　had　seen　the　captain　and　his　companions　at　St。　Louis。　　They　had　now　　been　for　some　time　at　Westport；　making　preparations　for　their　　departure；　and　waiting　for　a　re…enforcement；　since　they　were　too　few　　in　number　to　attempt　it　alone。　　They　might；　it　is　true；　have　joined　　some　of　the　parties　of　emigrants　who　were　on　the　point　of　setting　out　　for　Oregon　and　California；　but　they　professed　great　disinclination　to　　have　any　connection　with　the　〃Kentucky　fellows。〃　The　captain　now　urged　it　upon　us；　that　we　should　join　forces　and　　proceed　to　the　mountains　in　company。　　Feeling　no　greater　partiality　　for　the　society　of　the　emigrants　than　they　did；　we　thought　the　　arrangement　an　advantageous　one；　and　consented　to　it。　　Our　future　　fellow…travelers　had　installed　themselves　in　a　little　log…house；　　where　we　found　them　all　surrounded　by　saddles；　harness；　guns；　　pistols；　telescopes；　knives；　and　in　short　their　complete　appointments　　for　the　prairie。　　R。；　who　professed　a　taste　for　natural　history；　sat　　at　a　table　stuffing　a　woodpecker；　the　brother　of　the　captain；　who　was　　an　Irishman；　was　splicing　a　trail…rope　on　the　floor；　as　he　had　been　　an　amateur　sailor。　　The　captain　pointed　out；　with　much　complacency；　　the　different　articles　of　their　outfit。　　〃You　see；〃　said　he；　〃that　we　　are　all　old　travelers。　　I　am　convinced　that　no　party　ever　went　upon　　the　prairie　better　provided。〃　　The　hunter　whom　they　had　employed；　a　　surly　looking　Canadian；　named　Sorel；　and　their　muleteer；　an　American　　from　St。　Louis；　were　lounging　about　the　building。　　In　a　little　log　　stable　close　at　hand　were　their　horses　and　mules；　selected　by　the　　captain；　who　was　an　excellent　judge。　The　alliance　entered　into；　we　left　them　to　complete　their　　arrangements；　while　we　pushed　our　own　to　all　convenient　speed。　　The　　emigrants　for　whom　our　friends　professed　such　contempt　were　encamped　　on　the　prairie　about　eight　or　ten　miles　distant；　to　the　number　of　a　　thousand　or　more；　and　new　parties　were　constantly　passing　out　from　　Independence　to　join　them。　　They　were　in　great　confusion；　holding　　meetings；　passing　resolutions；　and　drawing　up　regulations；　but　unable　　to　unite　in　the　choice　of　leaders　to　conduct　them　across　the　prairie。　　　Being　at　leisure　one　day；　I　rode　over　to　Independence。　　The　town　was　　crowded。　　A　multitude　of　shops　had　sprung　up　to　furnish　the　emigrants　　and　Santa　Fe　traders　with　necessaries　for　their　journey；　and　there　　was　an　incessant　hammering　and　banging　from　a　dozen　blacksmiths'　　sheds；　where　the　heavy　wagons　were　being　repaired；　and　the　horses　and　　oxen　shod。　　The　streets　were　thronged　with　men；　horses；　and　mules。　　　While　I　was　in　the　town；　a　train　of　emigrant　wagons　from　Illinois　　passed　through；　to　j