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very well for her; and complains scarce at all。  Yesterday; 

she went down SOLA (at least accompanied by a groom) to pay a 

visit; Belle; Lloyd and I went a walk up the mountain road … 

the great public highway of the island; where you have to go 

single file。  The object was to show Belle that gaudy valley 

of the Vaisigano which the road follows。  If the road is to 

be made and opened; as our new Chief Justice promises; it 

will be one of the most beautiful roads in the world。  But 

the point is this: I forgot I had been three months in 

civilisation; wearing shoes and stockings; and I tell you I 

suffered on my soft feet; coming home; down hill; on that 

stairway of loose stones; I could have cried。  O yes; another 

story; I knew I had。  The house boys had not been behaving 

well; so the other night I announced a FONO; and Lloyd and I 

went into the boys' quarters; and I talked to them I suppose 

for half an hour; and Talolo translated; Lloyd was there 

principally to keep another ear on the interpreter; else 

there may be dreadful misconceptions。  I rubbed all their 

ears; except two whom I particularly praised; and one man's 

wages I announced I had cut down by one half。  Imagine his 

taking this smiling!  Ever since; he has been specially 

attentive and greets me with a face of really heavenly 

brightness。  This is another good sign of their really and 

fairly accepting me as a chief。  When I first came here; if I 

had fined a man a sixpence; he would have quit work that 

hour; and now I remove half his income; and he is glad to 

stay on … nay; does not seem to entertain the possibility of 

leaving。  And this in the face of one particular difficulty … 

I mean our house in the bush; and no society; and no women 

society within decent reach。



I think I must give you our staff in a tabular form。





HOUSE。



+ o SOSIMO; provost and butler; and my valet。



o MISIFOLO; who is Fanny and Belle's chamberlain。



KITCHEN



+ o TALOLO; provost and chief cook。



+ o IOPU; second cook。



TALI; his wife; no wages。



TI'A; Samoan cook。



FEILOA'I; his child; no wages; likewise no work … Belle's 

pet。



+ o LEUELU; Fanny's boy; gardener; odd jobs。



IN APIA。



+ ELIGA; washman and daily errand man。



OUTSIDE。



+ o HENRY SIMELE; provost and overseas of outside boys。



LU。



TASI SELE。



MAIELE。



PULU; who is also our talking man and cries the ava。





The crosses mark out the really excellent boys。  Ti'a is the 

man who has just been fined half his wages; he is a beautiful 

old man; the living image of 'Fighting Gladiator;' my 

favourite statue … but a dreadful humbug。  I think we keep 

him on a little on account of his looks。  This sign o marks 

those who have been two years or upwards in the family。  I 

note all my old boys have the cross of honour; except 

Misifolo; well; poor dog; he does his best; I suppose。  You 

should see him scour。  It is a remark that has often been 

made by visitors: you never see a Samoan run; except at 

Vailima。  Do you not suppose that makes me proud?



I am pleased to see what a success THE WRECKER was; having 

already in little more than a year outstripped THE MASTER OF 

BALLANTRAE。



About DAVID BALFOUR in two volumes; do see that they make it 

a decent…looking book; and tell me; do you think a little 

historical appendix would be of service?  Lang bleats for 

one; and I thought I might address it to him as a kind of 

open letter。





DEC。 4TH。





No time after all。  Good…bye。



R。 L S。







CHAPTER XXXV







MY DEAR COLVIN; … One page out of my picture book I must give 

you。  Fine burning day; half past two P。M。  We four begin to 

rouse up from reparatory slumbers; yawn; and groan; get a cup 

of tea; and miserably dress: we have had a party the day 

before; X'mas Day; with all the boys absent but one; and 

latterly two; we had cooked all day long; a cold dinner; and 

lo! at two our guests began to arrive; though dinner was not 

till six; they were sixteen; and fifteen slept the night and 

breakfasted。  Conceive; then; how unwillingly we climb on our 

horses and start off in the hottest part of the afternoon to 

ride 4 and a half miles; attend a native feast in the gaol; 

and ride four and a half miles back。  But there is no help 

for it。  I am a sort of father of the political prisoners; 

and have CHARGE D'AMES in that riotously absurd 

establishment; Apia Gaol。  The twenty…three (I think it is) 

chiefs act as under gaolers。  The other day they told the 

Captain of an attempt to escape。  One of the lesser political 

prisoners the other day effected a swift capture; while the 

Captain was trailing about with the warrant; the man came to 

see what was wanted; came; too; flanked by the former gaoler; 

my prisoner offers to show him the dark cell; shoves him in; 

and locks the door。  'Why do you do that?' cries the former 

gaoler。  'A warrant;' says he。  Finally; the chiefs actually 

feed the soldiery who watch them!



The gaol is a wretched little building; containing a little 

room; and three cells; on each side of a central passage; it 

is surrounded by a fence of corrugated iron; and shows; over 

the top of that; only a gable end with the inscription O LE 

FALE PUIPUI。  It is on the edge of the mangrove swamp; and is 

reached by a sort of causeway of turf。  When we drew near; we 

saw the gates standing open and a prodigious crowd outside … 

I mean prodigious for Apia; perhaps a hundred and fifty 

people。  The two sentries at the gate stood to arms 

passively; and there seemed to be a continuous circulation 

inside and out。  The captain came to meet us; our boy; who 

had been sent ahead was there to take the horses; and we 

passed inside the court which was full of food; and rang 

continuously to the voice of the caller of gifts; I had to 

blush a little later when my own present came; and I heard my 

one pig and eight miserable pine…apples being counted out 

like guineas。  In the four corners of the yard and along one 

wall; there are make…shift; dwarfish; Samoan houses or huts; 

which have been run up since Captain Wurmbrand came to 

accommodate the chiefs。  Before that they were all crammed 

into the six cells; and locked in for the night; some of them 

with dysentery。  They are wretched constructions enough; but 

sanctified by the presence of chiefs。  We heard a man 

corrected loudly to…day for saying 'FALE' of one of them; 

'MAOTA;' roared the highest chief present … 'palace。'  About 

eighteen chiefs; gorgeously arrayed; stood up to greet us; 

and led us into one of these MAOTAS; where you may be sure we 

had to crouch; almost to kneel; to enter; and where a row of 

pretty girls occupied one side to make the ava (kava)。  The 

highest chief present was a magnificent man; as high chiefs 

usually are; I find I cannot describe him; his face is full 

of shrewdness and authority; his figure like Ajax; his name 

Auilua。  He took the head of the building and put Belle on 

his right hand。  Fanny was called first for the ava (kava)。  

Our names were called in English style; the high…chief wife 

of Mr。 St… (an unpronounceable something); Mrs。 Straw; and 

the like。  And when we went into the other house to eat; we 

found we were seated alternately with chiefs about the … 

table; I was about to say; but rather floor。  Everything was 

to be done European style with a vengeance!  We were the only 

whites present; except Wurmbrand; and still I had no 

suspicion of the truth。  They began to take off their ulas 

(necklaces of scarlet seeds) and hang them about our necks; 

we politely resisted; and were told that the King (who had 

stopped off their SIVA) had sent down to the prison a message 

to the effect that he was to give a dinner to…morrow; and 

wished their second…hand ulas for it。  Some of them were 

content; others not。  There was a ring of anger in the boy's 

voice; as he told us we were to wear them past the King's 

house。  Dinner over; I must say they are moderate eaters at a 

feast; we returned to the ava house; and then the curtain 

drew suddenly up upon the set scene。  We took our seats; and 

Auilua began to give me a present; recapitulating each 

article as he gave it out; with some appropriate comment。  He 

called me several times 'their only friend;' said they were 

all in slavery; had no money; and these things were all made 

by the hands of their families … nothing bought; he had one 

phrase; in which I heard his voice rise up to a note of 

triumph: 'This is a present from the poor prisoners to the 

rich man。'  Thirteen pieces of tapa; some of them 

surprisingly fine; one I think unique; thirty fans of every 

shape and colour; a kava cup; etc。; etc。  At first Auilua 

conducted the business with weighty gravity; but before the 

end of the thirty fans; his comments began to be humorous。  

When it came to a little basket; he said: 'Here was a little 

basket for Tusitala to put sixpence in; when he could get 

hold of one' … with a delicious grimace。  I answered as best 

as I was able through a miserable interpreter; and all the 

while; as I went on; I heard the crier outside in the court 

calling my gift of food; which I perceived was to be 

Gargantuan。  I had brought but three boys with me。  It was 

plain that they were wholly overpowered。  We proposed to send 

for our gifts on the morrow; but no; said the interpreter; 

that would never do; they must go away to…day; Mulinuu must 

see my porters taking away the gifts; … 'make 'em jella;' 

quoth the interpreter。  And I began to see the reason of this 

really splendid gift; one half; gratitude to me … one half; a 

wipe at the King。



And now; to introduce darker colours; you must know this 

visit of mine to the gaol was just a little bit risky; we had 

several causes f

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