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present century it was said to amount to sixty thousand。  There can 



be no doubt that the sect is by no means so numerous as it was at 



former periods�察�witness those barrios in various towns still 



denominated Gitanerias�察�but from whence the Gitanos have 



disappeared even like the Moors from the Morerias。  Whether this 



diminution in number has been the result of a partial change of 



habits�察�of pestilence or sickness�察�of war or famine�察�or of all 



these causes combined�察�we have no means of determining�察�and shall 



abstain from offering conjectures on the subject。















CHAPTER IV















IN the autumn of the year 1839�察�I landed at Tarifa�察�from the coast 



of Barbary。  I arrived in a small felouk laden with hides for 



Cadiz�察�to which place I was myself going。  We stopped at Tarifa in 



order to perform quarantine�察�which�察�however�察�turned out a mere 



farce�察�as we were all permitted to come on shore�察�the master of the 



felouk having bribed the port captain with a few fowls。  We formed 



a motley group。  A rich Moor and his son�察�a child�察�with their 



Jewish servant Yusouf�察�and myself with my own man Hayim Ben Attar�察�



a Jew。  After passing through the gate�察�the Moors and their 



domestics were conducted by the master to the house of one of his 



acquaintance�察�where he intended they should lodge�察�whilst a sailor 



was despatched with myself and Hayim to the only inn which the 



place afforded。  I stopped in the street to speak to a person whom 



I had known at Seville。  Before we had concluded our discourse�察�



Hayim�察�who had walked forward�察�returned�察�saying that the quarters 



were good�察�and that we were in high luck�察�for that he knew the 



people of the inn were Jews。  'Jews��' said I�察�'here in Tarifa�察�and 



keeping an inn�察�I should be glad to see them。'  So I left my 



acquaintance�察�and hastened to the house。  We first entered a 



stable�察�of which the ground floor of the building consisted�察�and 



ascending a flight of stairs entered a very large room�察�and from 



thence passed into a kitchen�察�in which were several people。  One of 



these was a stout�察�athletic�察�burly fellow of about fifty�察�dressed 



in a buff jerkin�察�and dark cloth pantaloons。  His hair was black as 



a coal and exceedingly bushy�察�his face much marked from some 



disorder�察�and his skin as dark as that of a toad。  A very tall 



woman stood by the dresser�察�much resembling him in feature�察�with 



the same hair and complexion�察�but with more intelligence in her 



eyes than the man�察�who looked heavy and dogged。  A dark woman�察�whom 



I subsequently discovered to be lame�察�sat in a corner�察�and two or 



three swarthy girls�察�from fifteen to eighteen years of age�察�were 



flitting about the room。  I also observed a wicked´looking boy�察�who 



might have been called handsome�察�had not one of his eyes been 



injured。  'Jews��' said I�察�in Moorish�察�to Hayim�察�as I glanced at 



these people and about the room�察�'these are not Jews�察�but children 



of the Dar´bushi´fal。'







'List to the Corahai��' said the tall woman�察�in broken Gypsy slang�察�



'hear how they jabber ��hunelad como chamulian���察�truly we will make 



them pay for the noise they raise in the house。'  Then coming up to 



me�察�she demanded with a shout�察�fearing otherwise that I should not 



understand�察�whether I would not wish to see the room where I was to 



sleep。  I nodded�此 �whereupon she led me out upon a back terrace�察�



and opening the door of a small room�察�of which there were three�察�



asked me if it would suit。  'Perfectly��' said I�察�and returned with 



her to the kitchen。







'O�察�what a handsome face� �what a royal person��' exclaimed the whole 



family as I returned�察�in Spanish�察�but in the whining�察�canting tones 



peculiar to the Gypsies�察�when they are bent on victimising。  'A 



more ugly Busno it has never been our chance to see��' said the same 



voices in the next breath�察�speaking in the jargon of the tribe。  



'Won't your Moorish Royalty please to eat something��' said the tall 



hag。  'We have nothing in the house�察�but I will run out and buy a 



fowl�察�which I hope may prove a royal peacock to nourish and 



strengthen you。'  'I hope it may turn to drow in your entrails��' 



she muttered to the rest in Gypsy。  She then ran down�察�and in a 



minute returned with an old hen�察�which�察�on my arrival�察�I had 



observed below in the stable。  'See this beautiful fowl��' said she�察�



'I have been running over all Tarifa to procure it for your 



kingship�察�trouble enough I have had to obtain it�察�and dear enough 



it has cost me。  I will now cut its throat。'  'Before you kill it��' 



said I�察�'I should wish to know what you paid for it�察�that there may 



be no dispute about it in the account。'  'Two dollars I paid for 



it�察�most valorous and handsome sir�察�two dollars it cost me�察�out of 



my own quisobi ´ out of my own little purse。'  I saw it was high 



time to put an end to these zalamerias�察�and therefore exclaimed in 



Gitano�察�'You mean two brujis ��reals���察�O mother of all the witches�察�



and that is twelve cuartos more than it is worth。'  'Ay Dios mio�察�



whom have we here��' exclaimed the females。  'One��' I replied�察�'who 



knows you well and all your ways。  Speak� �am I to have the hen for 



two reals�拭�if not�察�I shall leave the house this moment。'  'O yes�察�



to be sure�察�brother�察�and for nothing if you wish it��' said the tall 



woman�察�in natural and quite altered tones�察�'but why did you enter 



the house speaking in Corahai like a Bengui�拭 �We thought you a 



Busno�察�but we now see that you are of our religion�察�pray sit down 



and tell us where you have been。' 。 。







MYSELF。 ´ 'Now�察�my good people�察�since I have answered your 



questions�察�it is but right that you should answer some of mine�察�



pray who are you�拭�and how happens it that you are keeping this 



inn��'







GYPSY HAG。 ´ 'Verily�察�brother�察�we can scarcely tell you who we are。  



All we know of ourselves is�察�that we keep this inn�察�to our trouble 



and sorrow�察�and that our parents kept it before us�察�we were all 



born in this house�察�where I suppose we shall die。'







MYSELF。 ´ 'Who is the master of the house�察�and whose are these 



children��'







GYPSY HAG。 ´ 'The master of the house is the fool�察�my brother�察�who 



stands before you without saying a word�察�to him belong these 



children�察�and the cripple in the chair is his wife�察�and my cousin。  



He has also two sons who are grown´up men�察�one is a chumajarri 



��shoemaker���察�and the other serves a tanner。'







MYSELF。 ´ 'Is it not contrary to the law of the Cales to follow 



such trades��'







GYPSY HAG。 ´ 'We know of no law�察�and little of the Cales 



themselves。  Ours is the only Calo family in Tarifa�察�and we never 



left it in our lives�察�except occasionally to go on the smuggling 



lay to Gibraltar。  True it is that the Cales�察�when they visit 



Tarifa�察�put up at our house�察�sometimes to our cost。  There was one 



Rafael�察�son of the rich Fruto of Cordova�察�here last summer�察�to buy 



up horses�察�and he departed a baria and a half in our debt�察�however�察�



I do not grudge it him�察�for he is a handsome and clever Chabo ´ a 



fellow of many capacities。  There was more than one Busno had cause 



to rue his coming to Tarifa。'







MYSELF。 ´ 'Do you live on good terms with the Busne of Tarifa��'







GYPSY HAG。 ´ 'Brother�察�we live on the best terms with the Busne of 



Tarifa�察�especially with the errays。  The first people in Tarifa 



come to this house�察�to have their baji told by the cripple in the 



chair and by myself。  I know not how it is�察�but we are more 



considered by the grandees than the poor�察�who hate and loathe us。  



When my first and only infant died�察�for I have been married�察�the 



child of one of the principal people was put to me to nurse�察�but I 



hated it for its white blood�察�as you may well believe。  It never 



throve�察�for I did it a private mischief�察�and though it grew up and 



is now a youth�察�it is ´ mad。'







MYSELF。 ´ 'With whom will your brother's children marry�拭 �You say 



there are no Gypsies here。'







GYPSY HAG。 ´ 'Ay de mi�察�hermano�  �It is that which grieves me。  I 



would rather see them sold to the Moors than married to the Busne。  



When Rafael was here he wished to persuade the chumajarri to 



accompany him to Cordova�察�and promised to provide for him�察�and to 



find him a wife among the Callees of that town�察�but the faint heart 



would not�察�though I myself begged him to comply。  As for the 



curtidor ��tanner���察�he goes every night to the house of a Busnee�察�



and once�察�when I reproached him with it�察�he threatened to marry 



her。  I intend to take my knife�察�and to wait behind the door in the 



dark�察�and when she comes out to gash her over the eyes。  I trow he 



will have little desire to wed with her then。'







MYSELF。 ´ 'Do many Busne from the country put up at this house��'







GYPSY HAG。 ´ 'Not so many as formerly�察�brother�察�the labourers from 



the Campo say that we are all thieves�察�and that it is impossible 



for any one but a Calo to enter this house without having the shirt 



stripped from his back。  They go to the houses of their 



acquaintance in the town�察�for they fear to enter these doors。  I 



scarcely know why�察�for my brother is the veriest fool in Tarifa。  



Were it not for his face�察�I should say that he is no Chabo�察�for he 



cannot speak�察�and permits every chance to slip through his fingers。  



Many a good mule and borrico have gone out of the stable below�察�



which he might have secured�察�had he but tongue enough to have 



cozened the owners。  But he is a fool�察�as I said before�察�he cannot 



speak�察�and is no Chabo。'







How far the person in question�察�who sat all the while smoking his 



pipe�察�with the most unperturbed tranquillity�察�deserved the 



character bestowed upon him by hi

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