three men on the bummel(三个闲逛的人)-第22部分
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but he has the satisfaction of knowing it is there； and that it is behaving
itself。 The lake is lined with zinc； and once a week he takes it up； carries
it into the kitchen； and scours it。 In the geometrical centre of the grass
plot； which is sometimes as large as a tablecloth and is generally railed
round； he places a china dog。 The Germans are very fond of dogs； but as a
rule they prefer them of china。 The china dog never digs holes in the
lawn to bury bones； and never scatters a flower…bed to the winds with his
hind legs。 From the German point of view； he is the ideal dog。 He
stops where you put him； and he is never where you do not want him。 You
can have him perfect in all points； according to the latest requirements of
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the Kennel Club； or you can indulge your own fancy and have something
unique。 You are not； as with other dogs； limited to breed。 In china； you
can have a blue dog or a pink dog。 For a little extra； you can have a
double…headed dog。
On a certain fixed date in the autumn the German stakes his flowers
and bushes to the earth； and covers them with Chinese matting； and on a
certain fixed date in the spring he uncovers them； and stands them up
again。 If it happens to be an exceptionally fine autumn； or an
exceptionally late spring； so much the worse for the unfortunate vegetable。
No true German would allow his arrangements to be interfered with by so
unruly a thing as the solar system。 Unable to regulate the weather； he
ignores it。
Among trees； your German's favourite is the poplar。 Other disorderly
nations may sing the charms of the rugged oak； the spreading chestnut； or
the waving elm。 To the German all such； with their wilful； untidy ways；
are eyesores。 The poplar grows where it is planted； and how it is planted。
It has no improper rugged ideas of its own。 It does not want to wave or
to spread itself。 It just grows straight and upright as a German tree
should grow； and so gradually the German is rooting out all other trees；
and replacing them with poplars。
Your German likes the country； but he prefers it as the lady thought
she would the noble savagemore dressed。 He likes his walk through the
woodto a restaurant。 But the pathway must not be too steep； it must
have a brick gutter running down one side of it to drain it； and every
twenty yards or so it must have its seat on which he can rest and mop his
brow； for your German would no more think of sitting on the grass than
would an English bishop dream of rolling down One Tree Hill。 He likes
his view from the summit of the hill； but he likes to find there a stone
tablet telling him what to look at； find a table and bench at which he can
sit to partake of the frugal beer and 〃belegte Semmel〃 he has been careful
to bring with him。 If； in addition； he can find a police notice posted on a
tree； forbidding him to do something or other； that gives him an extra
sense of comfort and security。
Your German is not averse even to wild scenery； provided it be not too
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wild。 But if he consider it too savage； he sets to work to tame it。 I
remember； in the neighbourhood of Dresden； discovering a picturesque
and narrow valley leading down towards the Elbe。 The winding roadway
ran beside a mountain torrent； which for a mile or so fretted and foamed
over rocks and boulders between wood…covered banks。 I followed it
enchanted until； turning a corner； I suddenly came across a gang of eighty
or a hundred workmen。 They were busy tidying up that valley； and
making that stream respectable。 All the stones that were impeding the
course of the water they were carefully picking out and carting away。
The bank on either side they were bricking up and cementing。 The
overhanging trees and bushes； the tangled vines and creepers they were
rooting up and trimming down。 A little further I came upon the finished
workthe mountain valley as it ought to be； according to German ideas。
The water； now a broad； sluggish stream； flowed over a level； gravelly bed；
between two walls crowned with stone coping。 At every hundred yards it
gently descended down three shallow wooden platforms。 For a space on
either side the ground had been cleared； and at regular intervals young
poplars planted。 Each sapling was protected by a shield of wickerwork
and bossed by an iron rod。 In the course of a couple of years it is the
hope of the local council to have 〃finished〃 that valley throughout its
entire length； and made it fit for a tidy…minded lover of German nature to
walk in。 There will be a seat every fifty yards； a police notice every
hundred； and a restaurant every half…mile。
They are doing the same from the Memel to the Rhine。 They are just
tidying up the country。 I remember well the Wehrthal。 It was once the
most romantic ravine to be found in the Black Forest。 The last time I
walked down it some hundreds of Italian workmen were encamped there
hard at work； training the wild little Wehr the way it should go； bricking
the banks for it here； blasting the rocks for it there； making cement steps
for it down which it can travel soberly and without fuss。
For in Germany there is no nonsense talked about untrammelled nature。
In Germany nature has got to behave herself； and not set a bad example to
the children。 A German poet； noticing waters coming down as Southey
describes； somewhat inexactly； the waters coming down at Lodore； would
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be too shocked to stop and write alliterative verse about them。 He would
hurry away； and at once report them to the police。 Then their foaming
and their shrieking would be of short duration。
〃Now then； now then； what's all this about？〃 the voice of German
authority would say severely to the waters。 〃We can't have this sort of
thing； you know。 Come down quietly； can't you？ Where do you think
you are？〃
And the local German council would provide those waters with zinc
pipes and wooden troughs； and a corkscrew staircase； and show them how
to come down sensibly； in the German manner。
It is a tidy land is Germany。
We reached Dresden on the Wednesday evening； and stayed there over
the Sunday。
Taking one consideration with another； Dresden； perhaps； is the most
attractive town in Germany； but it is a place to be lived in for a while
rather than visited。 Its museums and galleries； its palaces and gardens； its
beautiful and historically rich environment； provide pleasure for a winter；
but bewilder for a week。 It has not the gaiety of Paris or Vienna； which
quickly palls； its charms are more solidly German； and more lasting。 It is
the Mecca of the musician。 For five shillings； in Dresden； you can
purchase a stall at the opera house； together； unfortunately； with a strong
disinclination ever again to take the trouble of sitting out a performance in
any English； French； or； American opera house。
The chief scandal of Dresden still centres round August the Strong；
〃the Man of Sin；〃 as Carlyle always called him； who is popularly reputed
to have cursed Europe with over a thousand children。 Castles where he
imprisoned this discarded mistress or thatone of them； who persisted in
her claim to a better title； for forty years； it is said； poor lady！ The
narrow rooms where she ate her heart out and died are still shown。
Chateaux； shameful for this deed of infamy or that； lie scattered round the
neighbourhood like bones about a battlefield； and most of your guide's
stories are such as the 〃young person〃 educated in Germany had best not
hear。 His life…sized portrait hangs in the fine Zwinger； which he built as an
arena for his wild beast fights when the people grew tired of them in the
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market…place； a beetle…browed； frankly animal man； but with the culture
and taste that so often wait upon animalism。 Modern Dresden undoubtedly
owes much to him。
But what the stranger in Dresden stares at most is； perhaps； its electric
trams。 These huge vehicles flash through the streets at from ten to
twenty miles an hour； taking curves and corners after the manner of an
Irish car driver。 Everybody travels by them； excepting only officers in
