the grand canyon of arizona-第4部分

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Prehistoric　Lake。　At　the　twenty…eighth　mile　post；　we　have　left　the　cedars　behind；　and　until　we　strike　Anita　junction　only　a　few　scraggly；　solitary　trees　are　to　be　seen。　We　are　on　the　edge　of　the　great　prehistoric　lake。　The　country　is　seamed　with　small；　rocky　gorges；　which　we　cross。　They　are　sometimes　lined　with　scrub…brush；　and　made　beautiful　by　many　colored　flowers。　All　these　〃draws〃　are　tributary　to　Havasu　（Cataract）　Creek；　but　it　is　interesting　to　remember　that　most　of　them　convey　the　drainage　water　away　from　the　rim　of　the　Grand　Canyon　until；　by　the　subterranean　channel　before　referred　to；　the　stream　is　taken　back　to　the　Havasu　Canyon　and　soon；　deep；　deep；　deep　down；　some　five　thousand　feet　below　the　rim；　is　ejected　into　the　muddy　Colorado　River。

The　First　Sight　of　the　Canyon。　A　glance　out　of　the　right　window　will　now　show　one　a　portion　of　the　north　wall　of　the　Canyon。　It　is　a　fairly　level　stretch　of　wall　running　east　and　west；　though　there　is　a　break　in　it；　and　then　an　uprising　curve；　as　if　the　crust　here　had　received　a　lateral　thrust　strong　enough　to　break　and　then　〃buckle〃　it　up　from　east　to　west。

Crossing　the　Red　Horse　Wash；　known　to　the　Havasupais　as　Ha…i…ga…sa…jul…ga；　the　line　reaches　Anita　Junction。　Here　a　spur　three　miles　long　connects　the　main　line　with　the　copper　mines　of　the　Anita　Consolidated　Company；　for　which　the　railway　originally　was　built。　The　grade　of　the　spur　was　so　engineered　that　the　loaded　cars　of　ore　from　the　mine　（when　in　operation）　are　brought　down　by　gravity。

Coconino　Forest。　A　few　miles　further　on；　the　railway　enters　a　country　of　pine　and　juniper；　a　stately　prelude　to　the　majesties　and　grandeurs　of　the　Kohonino　（Coconino）　Forest。　Here　it　seems　as　if　one　were　suddenly　transported　to　England；　and　were　passing　through　a　succession　of　landed　estates；　without；　however；　finding　the　accompanying　mansions。　Aisles　of　stately　trees；　nature　planted　and　grown；　yet　as　perfectly　in　line　as　if　set　with　mathematical　precision；　lead　the　eye　into　open　glades　where　deer　and　antelope　move　to　and　fro；　and　where　one　looks　instinctively　for　the　bold　facade　of　an　historic　building；　or　the　battlemented　towers　of　some　romantic　castle。

Arrival　at　El　Tovar。　Now；　bearing　off　in　a　westerly　direction；　the　railway　leaves　the　Kohonino　Wash；　and　soon　crosses　a　divide　beyond　which；　to　the　left；　may　be　seen　the　house　at　Bass。　This　is　a　flag…station　for　Bass　Camp。　A　mile　or　so　further；　and　a　wash　opens　to　the　left。　This　leads　to　Rowe's　Well　（Ha…ha…wai…i…the…qual…ga）；　where　the　chief　ranger　of　the　Forest　Reserve　has　his　home。　Another　four　miles　of　steady　upgrade；　and　the　whistle　of　the　engine　denotes　that　Grand　Canyon　is　reached。　Here；　in　addition　to　El　Tovar；　Bright　Angel　Camp；　the　powerhouse；　and　the　buildings　of　the　transportation　department；　are　a　postoffice；　photograph　gallery　and　several　buildings　for　employees　of　the　railroad；　rangers；　etc。；　so　that　there　is　quite　a　little　settlement。

The　main　attractions；　however；　are　the　Canyon　and　El　Tovar；　the　hotel　itself　being　so　unique　and　picturesque　as　to　require　a　separate　chapter　for　its　description。



CHAPTER　III。　El　Tovar　And　Its　Equipments

Location　of　El　Tovar。　The　West　has　several　unique　and　picturesque　hotels；　but　I　question　whether　it　possesses　one　more　so　than　that　bearing　the　name　of　the　gallant　Spanish　cavalier；　Coronado's　lieutenant；　the　Ensign　Tovar。　Built　upon　the　very　edge　of　the　Canyon；　in　latitude　35　degrees　55　minutes　30　seconds；　it　is　the　arc　of　a　rude　curve　of　an　amphitheatre；　the　walls　of　which　are　slightly　higher　than　the　elevation　of　the　hotel。　Its　location　affords　the　most　intimate　views　of　the　great　gorge；　attracting　spectators　from　all　over　the　civilized　world。　Indeed；　were　it　not　for　these　visitors；　El　Tovar　would　never　have　been　built。　Its　existence　came　out　of　a　crying　necessity。　It　was　built　by　the　Santa　Fe　Railway；　and　furnished　and　equipped　by　Fred　Harvey；　whose　hotel　and　dining　service　for　over　a　quarter　of　a　century　has　made　the　Santa　Fe　noted　as　giving　the　best　food　service　of　any　railway　system　in　the　world。

The　Building。　And　what　of　the　building　itself？　Stand　away　a　little　distance　say　half　a　mile　or　more；　for　it　is　large　enough　to　be　seen　and　well　described　that　far　awayand　it　presents　the　appearance　of　a　three…storied　bungalow；　though　later　you　find　that　in　some　points　it　is　four　stories　high。　Its　base　is　of　solid；　native　limestone　rock；　well　built　up　and　continued　in　the　massive　outside　chimneys；　one　of　which　stands　at　each　end　of　the　dining…room。　The　first　story　is　of　solid　logs；　brought　from　faraway　Oregon；　and　the　upper　stories　are　of　heavy　planking　and　shingles；　all　stained　to　a　rich　brown　or　weather…beaten　color；　that　harmonizes　perfectly　with　the　gray…green　of　its　unique　surroundings。　It　is　pleasant　to　the　eye；　artistic　in　effect；　and　satisfactory　to　the　most　exacting　critic。　Its　width；　north　and　south；　is　three　hundred　and　twenty…seven　feet；　and　from　east　to　west；　two　hundred　and　eighteen　feet。　The　main　building　and　entrance　face　the　east。

Architecture。　Its　lines　are　in　harmony　with　the　simplicity　of　the　surroundings。　The　architect　has　followed；　in　admirable　proportions；　the　Swiss　chalet　and　the　Norway　villa。　Here　are　expressed　a　quiet　dignity；　an　unassuming　luxury；　and　an　appreciation　of　outing　needs。　Not　a　Waldorf…Astoriaadmirable　as　that　type　is　for　the　city　but　a　big；　country　clubhouse；　where　the　traveler　seeking　high…class　accommodations　also　finds　freedom　from　ultrafashionable　restrictions。　You　may　wear　a　dress　suit　at　dinner　or　not。　You　may　mix　with　the　jolly　crowd；　or　sit　alone　in　a　quiet　nook。　You　may　lunch　at　almost　any　hour　of　the　day　or　night。　You　may　dine　with　other　guests；　or　enjoy　the　seclusion　of　a　private　dining…room。　Good　fellowship　perhaps　best　expresses　the　motto　of　El　Tovar。

The　hotel　contains　more　than　a　hundred　bedrooms。　Ample　accommodations　are　provided　for　two　hundred　and　fifty　guests；　and　more　can　be　comfortably　housed　in　the　annex；　at　Bright　Angel　Camp。　Outside　are　porches　and　roof　gardens；　from　which　one　has　wide　views　in　every　direction。　The　inside　finish　is　mainly　of　peeled　slabs；　wood　in　the　rough；　and　tinted　plaster；　interspersed　with　huge　wooden　beams。　Triple　casement　windows　and　generous　fireplaces　abound。　Indian　curios　and　trophies　of　the　chase　are　used　in　the　decorations。　The　furniture　is　of　special　pattern。

El　Tovar　is　more　than　a　hotel；　it　is　a　village　devoted　to　the　entertainment　of　travelers。　Far　from　the　accustomed　home　of　luxury；　money　has　here　summoned　the　beneficent　genii　who　minister　to　our　bodily　comfort。　Merely　that　you　may　have　pure　water　to　drink；　it　is　brought　from　a　mountain　spring　ninety　miles　away！　And　that　is　only　one　of　the　many　provisions　for　unquestioned　excellence　of　shelter　and　food。　The　hotel　is　conducted　on　the　American　plan。　The　rates　are　four　dollars　a　day　and　upwards。

The　Rendezvous。　Leaving　the　train　at　the　station；　a　short　distance　from　the　hotel；　you　proceed　up　a　winding　road　to　the　main　entrance；　a　hasty　glimpse　through　low　cedars　revealing　the　far　canyon　wall。

Above　the　wide　steps；　and　in　front　of　the　Norway　gable；　hospitably　swings　the　Tovar　coat…of…arms。　On　the　broad　porch　are　numerous　rocking…chairs　and　small　tables；　with　a　push…button　handy　for　ordering　light　refreshments。　The　porch　corners　are　of　solid　rough　masonry；　built　in　old　mission　style；　the　arches　wide　and　low。　The　first　impression　is　one　of　good　cheer。　Once　inside；　the　traveler　will　willingly　linger　a　few　moments　in　the　Rendezvous　or　Nimrod's　Cabin。　This　is　a　large　room；　forty…one　by　thirty…seven　feet；　notable　for　uneven　walls　of　dark　stained　fogs　and　bulky　rafters。　In　a　huge　corner　fireplace；　pine　knots　burn　cheerily　when　the　air　is　chilly。　Electric　lights　are　placed　in　log　squares；　swinging　from　the　low　roof　at　the　end　of　long　chains。　Gray　Navaho　rugs　cover　the　brown　floor。　There　are　cosy　tete…a…tetes　and　easy　chairs。　On　an　upper　shelf　repose　heads　of　the　deer；　elk；　moose；　mountain　sheep；　and　buffalo；　mingling　with　curiously　shaped　and　gaudily　tinted　Indian　jars　from　the　southwest　pueblos。　An　old…fashioned　clock　ticks　off　the　hours。　Several　small　escritoires　remind　you　of　letters　to　be　written　to　the　home　people。　Recessed　window…seats；　partly　hidden　by　red　curtains；　complete　the　picture。

What　wonder　that　every　morning　and　evening　most　of　the　guests　gather　in　this　roomthe　ladies　to　read　and　gossip；　the　gentlemen　to　smoke　and　tell　of　their　latest　adventures。　Few　country　clubs　have　as　pleasant　a　meeting　place；　yet　it　is　only　one　of　El　Tovar's　many　allurements。

The　Office　and　Ladies'　Lounging　Room。　Cross　the　western　edge　of　the　Rendezvous；　and　you　are　in　the　rotunda；　the　centre　of　the　hotel's　many　activities　and　its　very　necessary　hub。　Whether　bound　for　dining…room　or　parlors；　for　guest　chamber　or　amusement　room；　whether　attracted　by　the　click　of　billiards　below；　or　the　brightness　of　the　roof…garden　above；all　paths　here　intersect。

On　the　first　floor　is　the　office。　A　story　above；　reached　by　an　easily　ascended　stairway；　is　the　ladies'　lounging　room；　nestled　around　an　octagonal　open　space　that　extends　from　the　office　to　the　roof。

Just　beyond　are　the　art　rooms；　containing　paintings　and　photographs　of　the　Canyon；　on　the　walls　hang　paintings　of　southwest　scenery　from　the　brushes　of　noted　American　artists；　including　some　of　Thomas　Moran's　masterpieces。　Yellow　hangings　and　electric　lights　brighten　the　dark　tones　of　the　woodwork。

The　Sleeping…Rooms。　There　are　more　than　a　hundred　of　them。　They　are　found　on　all　four　floors。　The　Arizona　sunshine　generously　enters　each　one　at　some　hour　of　the　day。　Steam　heat　（automatically　regulated）；　electric　lights　and　office　telephones　are　providedwilling　servants　quickly　to　do　your　bidding。

On　the　first　and　second　floors　are　forty…two　rooms　en　suite。　There　are　twenty…one　commodious　bathrooms；　white　as　snow　and　kept　spotlessly　clean。

On　the　office　and　first　floors　are　two　private　parlors　en　suite。　The　furniture　is　mostly　of　arts　and　crafts　design。

Dining…Room。　When　travel　stains　are　removed；　you　are　directed　to　the　dining…room。　It　is　quadrangular　in　form；　ninety　feet　long　by　forty　feet　wide；　arched　overhead；　the　roof　supported　by　six　huge　log　trusses。　Walls　and　trusses　and　roof　are　all　finished　in　rough　wood；　and　are　as　brown　as　a　coff