the grand canyon of arizona-第44部分

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　use。　At　Laguna；　a　few　miles　above　Yuma；　it　has　built　a　huge　dam　larger　than　any　similar　dam　in　the　worldthat　diverts　these　once　turbulent　waters　into　irrigating　ditches　to　convey　their　life…giving　power　to　thousands　upon　thousands　of　acres　of　desert　land。　The　Blythe　Estate　is　doing　the　same　thing　a　hundred　or　more　miles　higher　up；　near　Parker；　on　the　Santa　Fe；　and　already　towns　and　settlements　are　springing　up　on　those　desert　wastes。　The　California　Development　Company　began　this　work；　four　miles　below　Yuma；　in　1900；　and　in　four　years　had　converted　that　great　sink　of　the　Colorado　Desert　into　the　richly　fertile　domain　now　known　as　the　Imperial　Valley；　where　today　are　many　growing　towns。

Opportunities　for　Swimming。　Though　the　current　of　the　Colorado　is　so　strong；　there　are　times　and　places　where　it　affords　one　who　is　not　over…fastidious　as　to　the　color　of　the　water；　an　opportunity　for　an　excellent　swim。　But　care　must　be　exercised。　At　the　foot　of　Bass　Trail；　there　are　two　or　three　rocky　recesses　where　one　may　go　in　and　swim；　within　the　arms　of　the　protecting　rocks；　without　danger。　It　is　not　well　to　swim　in　the　earlier　months　of　the　year；　when　the　water　is　excessively　cold。　Several　times　in　January　and　February　I　have　been　overcome　with　temptation；　and　have　jumped　in　〃merely　for　the　plunge。〃　The　sensation　is　one　of　being　skinned　alive；　and　one　plunge　is　all　that　one　cares　for。　Yet　on　emerging　and　dressing；　how　fine　one　feels　after　it。　The　great　melting　time　of　the　snows　on　the　mountains　is　the　end　of　May；　June　and　early　July。　It　grows　warmer　in　July；　and　from　then　on　to　December　one　may　enjoy　it。　In　September　and　October　it　is　generally　deliciously　warm；　and　I　have　gone　in　half　a　dozen　times　a　day。　A　good　swimmer　can　cross　the　stream；　if　he　does　not　lose　his　head；　for　the　current　is　powerful；　and　one　is　borne　down　far　faster　than　he　imagines；　and　it　is　much　further　across　than　it　seems　to　be。　Several　times；　when　I　have　wanted　to　cross；　and　there　was　no　boat；　I　have　swam　across　to　the　other　side；　wearing　my　shirt　and　trousers　and　carrying　my　boots　slung　around　my　neck。　But　it　is；　hard　work　and　scarcely　worth　the　risk。

An　Exciting　Swim。　Last　year　at　the　foot　of　the　Red　Canyon　Trail；　I　had　two　most　delightful　swimsone　on　the　night　of　the　arrival　of　our　party；　the　other　by　starlight　next　morning。　Though　there　is　an　ugly　rapid　at　this　place；　one　may　go　up　stream　far　enough　to　get　away　from　danger；　for　a　half…moon…shaped　mass　of　rock　affords　safe　shelter；　and　deep　enough　water　for　swimming。　The　night　swim　was　so　refreshing　that　I　could　not　resist　the　allurement　to　take　another　in　the　morning；　before　we　left　camp。　The　order　had　been　given　for　an　early　start；　which　meant　breakfast　at　earliest　dawn；　so　that　I　had　to　go　down　to　the　river　while　the　stars　were　yet　shining。　The　water　was　quite　warm；　and　as　soon　as　I　felt　myself　in　its　soothing　embrace　a　half…dreamy　mood　came　over　me；　and；　throwing　myself　upon　my　back；　I　yielded　to　it；　quietly　pushing　myself；　as　I　thought；　against　the　stream；　but　heading　for　the　other　side。　Though　conscious　of　the　enjoyment　of　the　exercise；　and　the　delicious　sensation　of　the　water　around　my　body；　my　thoughts　ran　away　with　me；　and　I　suddenly　awoke　to　myself　and　the　full　significance　of　my　surroundings　by　finding　myself　more　than　half…way　across　the　river；　in　the　swiftest　part　of　the　current；　which　was　rapidly　carrying　me　down　to　the　rapids。　For　a　few　moments　I　was　dreadfully　alarmed。　My　heart　stood　still；　and　the　surprise　of　it　almost　paralysed　me。　I　remember　distinctly　my　thoughts　and　reasoning。　They　were　somewhat　as　follows：　〃The　current　on　the　south　side　is　far　less　strong　than　on　this　side。　Therefore　it　will　be　much　easier　to　go　back　than　to　try　to　reach　the　north　shore；　which　seems　to　be　and　is　so　much　the　nearer。　If；　however；　you　can't　make　it；　what　then？　You'll　go　into　the　rapids。　If　you　are　dashed　headlong　or　sideways　against　any　of　the　five　hundred　and　one　waiting　rocks；　that　will　doubtless　be　the　end　of　you；　but　there　is　a　good　chance　that　you　may　get　through　without　hitting　anything。　A　minute；　or　two　minutes　at　the　most；　will　see　you　through　the　rapids　to　calm　current　beyond。　You　can　hold　your　breath　that　length　of　time；　so　that　the　spray　and　wildly　tossing　waves　of　the　rapids；　the　froth　and　spume；　will　not　get　up　your　nose　and　choke　you。〃

In　the　meantime；　I　had　fixed　my　eye　on　an　immense　square　block　of　rock；　that　rested　just　above　the　dangerous　rapids；　and　close　to　the　southern　shore。　I　knew　if　I　could　reach　the　shore　inside　that　rock　I　was　safe；　so　striking　out　vigorously；　and　aiming　for　a　point　far　above　it；　I　swam　as　strongly　as　I　knew　how；　making　every　stroke　tell；　refusing　to　be　alarmed　or　confused　by　the　terrifying　roar　of　the　rapids；　which　now　seemed　but　a　step　away。　I　did　not　have　to　test　my　method　of　going　through　the　rapids。　I　reached　the　shore　in　safety；　walked　back　to　camp；　had　a　good　breakfast；　made　all　the　more　appetizing　by　my　swim　and　the　consequent　danger；　and　in　half　an　hour　the　ride　up　the　trail　and　my　companions　were　absorbing　all　my　attention。　To　all　of　them；　save　one；　this　recital　of　my　morning's　adventure　will　be　new。

Dangerous　Unless　Known　Well。　That　the　river　is　more　dangerous　than　most　people　imagine；　the　bleaching　bones　of　many　a　poor　wretch　who　has　been　drowned　in　its　treacherous　waters　fully　attest。　More　than　one　prospector；　cattleman；　or　even　cattle　and　horse　〃rustler〃　（as　in　Arizona　parlance　a　cattle　and　horse…thief　is　known）；　with　too　great　self…confidence；　has　attempted　to　cross　on　a　log；　in　a　leaky　skiff；　or　in　a　canvas　boat；　and　ere　he　was　aware　of　his　danger；　the　current　had　swept　him　out　of　reach　of　all　help。　It　is　a　river　to　know　ere　you　risk　yourself　upon　or　in　it。

Getting　Animals　across　the　River。　Who　could　begin　to　recount　the　fun　and　frolic；　and　at　the　same　time　the　worry　and　vexation　we　have　experienced　in　taking　horses；　mules　and　burros　across　this　surly　river。　We　have　crossed　at　all　times　of　the　year；　at　high　water　and　low；　when　the　water　was　cold　enough　to　give　one　cramps　merely　to　look　at　it；　and　when　it　was　comfortably　warm。　Sometimes　we　had　no　trouble；　then　we　felt　how　smart　we　were；　and　it　made　us　happy；　at　other　times　the　animals　seemed　to　be　〃possessed。〃　Sometimes　it　is　the　horses　that　are　afraid；　at　others　it　is　the　mules；　and　sometimes　the　burros；　generally　all　three　together。　The　modus　is　to　put　your　strongest　rower　in　the　boat；　and　then　a　man　with　plenty　of　nerve　in　the　stern　to　handle　the　rope　and　the　animal　to　which　it　is　attached；when　you　get　the　latter　into　the　water。　As　many　persons　as　then　can　be　assembled　get　behind　the　animal　to　persuade　it　to　enter　the　water。　The　boat　is　ready　to　go　as　soon　as　the　animal　is　〃in；〃　but　yet　it　prefers　to　be　〃out。〃　Yellings；　shoutings；　pushings　are　of　little　or　no　avail；　and　the　gentle　pleadings　of　the　man　with　the　rope　are　as　effective　as　Mrs。　Partington's　sweeping　back　of　the　Atlantic　with　a　broom。　Vigorous　measures　must　be　used；　so　a　concerted　movement　is　projected。　At　a　given　signal　the　boat　is　to　be　pushed　off；　the　oarsman　ply　his　oars　with　power；　the　man　in　the　stern　is　to　pull　with　energy；　and　a　man　at　each　flank　of　the　animal　is　to　push；　while　every　other　being　is　to　do　his　or　her　part　by　a　shout　or　a　boost。　One　man　swings　a　riata　to　help　scare　the　animal　in；　and　the　boat　pulls　out　into　the　current。　We　all　stand　and　watch。　What　is　the　fool　horse　doing？　Scared　at　first　of　going　into　the　water；　he　now　is　making　desperate　efforts　to　climb　into　the　boat。　His　rope　is　held　as　tightly　as　possible；　but　the　beast　swims　frantically　from　one　side　to　the　other；　endeavoring　to　climb　aboard。　His　knees　thump　the　boat；　and　his　chin　occasionally　rests　on　the　gunwale；　but　active　interference　thrusts　him　back。　In　the　meantime；　the　current　is　taking　the　boat　well　down　the　river；　but　we　are　not　alarmed；　for　we　have　a　good　half…mile　stretch；　with　convenient　sandy　places　on　the　north　side；　on　which　to　land。　Now　the　horse　settles　down　to　steady　hard　work；　and　at　last；　catching　sight　of　the　tiny　beach；　he　breaks　away　from　the　boat　and　strikes　out　for　himself；　reaching　shore　before　the　rower。

Back　they　come　for　another。　Now　we　try　two　burros。　Firmly　they　brace　themselves；　and　refuse　to　be　pushed　into　the　tawny　flood。　Then　they　dodge　and　run　and　tangle　each　other　up　with　their　neck　ropes；　patiently　strangling　each　other　with　desperate　insistence。　At　length　they　are　pushed　in；　and　off　they　go。　After　a　good　ducking；　they　come　up　with　a　snort　and　a　bounce；　a　look　of　martyr…like　meekness　in　their　eyes；　as　they　settle　down　to　the　inevitable。　No　animal　on　earth　can　teach　man　more　than　a　burro　in　this　regard。　He　accepts　what　can't　be　helped；　makes　the　best　of　it；　and　gains　happiness　out　of　every　patch　of　thistles　and　grass　he　can　push　his　nose　into。　So；　as　we　look　into　the　eyes　of　these　burros；　as　they　rapidly　〃paw〃　the　current；　we　can　see　a　look　of　expectation　and　content　which　plainly　says　〃Cheer　up；　brother；　this　will　soon　be　over；　and　on　the　north　side　we'll　get　better　feed　than　we've　been　having　lately。〃

A　mule's　desperate　plunges　to　escape　generally　aid　us　to　get　him　into　the　water；　for　he　loses　his　balance　and　is　easily　pushed　in。　But　his　look　of　dazed　surprise　is　comical　when；　after　such　a　plunge；　in　which　he　sinks　below　his　head；　he　arises；　snorts；　blows　the　water　out　of　his　nostrils；　and　begins　to　look　about　him。　The　burro　part　of　his　nature；　however；　soon　settles　him　down；　and　he　pulls　out　for　the　shore；　glad　to　rejoin　his　companions。

Once　in　a　while　an　animal　breaks　loose；　gets　halfway　across；　becomes　confused；　and　not　knowing　which　way　to　go；　is　carried　down　to　the　rapids　and　dashed　to　death。



CHAPTER　XXIX。　Climate　And　Weather　At　The　Grand　Canyon

Difference　between　Rim　and　Canyon。　The　climate　at　the　Grand　Canyon　refuses　to　be　defined　in　a　paragraph。　What　is　true　of　the　country　along　the　rim　is　not　true　of　the　banks　of　the　river　itself。　The　midway　region；　half…way　down　the　trail；　likewise　has　a　climate　all　its　own。　For　as　you　go　down　in　summer；　the　thermometer　goes　up；　and　as　you　come　up；　in　winter；　the　thermometer　goes　down。　The　difference　of　nearly　a　mile　in　altitude　between　the　surface　of　the　Colorado　River　and　the　rim　of　the　Canyon　is　equivalent　to　going　hundreds　of　miles　north　and　south　on　the　leve