the grand canyon of arizona-第9部分

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o　experience　it。　To　go　down　the　trail　and　back　is　enough　to　accomplish　in　one　day；　unless　the　visitor　is　very　〃strenuous；〃　although　not　a　few　do　take　the　drive　out　to　Hopi　Point　and　see　the　sunset；　upon　returning　from　the　trail　trip。　Those　who　take　this　ride　down　the　trail；　after　arriving　on　the　morning　train；　do　not　go　as　far　down　as　the　river。　They　visit　the　Indian　Garden；　and　are　then　taken　out　to　a　prominent　point　of　Angel　Plateau；　and　there　obtain　a　fine　view　of　the　river。　From　the　scenic　standpoint；　this　is　much　to　be　preferred　to　going　down　to　the　river　itself；　especially　when　time　is　limited。　The　trail　to　the　river　is　down　a　side　gorge；　where　one's　view　is　materially　obstructed；　and　while　there　is　great　satisfaction　in　standing　immediately　before　the　river　itself；　and　seeing　it　roll　along　between　the　gloomy　walls　of　the　Inner　Gorge；　one　does　not　see　as　much　of　it；　or　in　so　striking　a　setting；　as　from　the　plateau；　one　thousand　three　hundred　and　twenty　feet　above。

If　one　is　determined　to　go　to　the　river；　however；　it　will　be　necessary　for　him　to　arrange　for　a　special　guide；　and　push　along　down　the　trail　with　vigor；　for　the　regular　trail　party　for　the　river　leaves　at　8：30　A。M。；　while　the　train　does　not　arrive　at　El　Tovar　until　about　9　o'clock；　and　one　may　wish　to　take　breakfast　before　starting。　Hence　the　start　is　seldom　accomplished　until　after　ten　o'clock；　two　hours　beyond　the　allotted　time。

Sunrise　and　Sunset　at　Hopi　Point。　It　already　has　been　pointed　out　that　this　is　the　strong　scenic　point　near　to　El　Tovar；　for　both　eastern　and　western　canyon　scenery；　though　the　eastern　is　not　so　fully　revealed　as　from　Yavapai　Point。　Regular　conveyances　take　visitors　out　to　this　point　both　morning　and　evening。　The　scenic　effects　are　heightened　in　the　Canyon　a　hundredfold　by　the　presence　of　the　morning　and　evening　shadows。　In　the　glare　of　the　midday　sun；　the　temples；　towers；　walls　and　buttes　lose　their　distinctiveness；　while　in　the　shadows　of　either　early　morning　or　the　late　afternoon；　they　stand　forth　as　vividly　as　a　profile　cameo　cut　in　black　on　a　light　ground。　As　the　hours　of　sunrise　and　sunset　vary；　the　drives　are　so　planned　as　to　reach　the　points　at　the　proper　time；　so　as　not　to　weary　the　visitor　by　too　long　waiting；　or　lose　the　enchanting　effects　by　too　late　arrival。　As　the　sun　sinks；　the　shadows　lengthen　and　deepen；　bringing　out　into　bold　relief　features　hitherto　unobserved；　and　giving　a　sublimity　to　the　vast　scene　that　it　did　not　possess　in　the　full　blaze　of　the　sun。　If　clouds　obscure　the　direct　rays；　all　the　better；　for　then　other　and　even　more　startling　effects　of　beauty　and　color　are　produced。　At　times　the　whole　Canyon　seems　filled　with　a　luminous　mist；　in　which　the　temples　float　into　individual　prominence　in　a　remarkable　manner。

Then；　as　the　vision　is　turned　to　the　east；　one　may　see　the　shadows　gradually；　and；　at　the　last；　rapidly　rise　and　shut　off　the　peach　glows；　the　vermilions；　the　absolutely　fiery　lights；　that　often　blaze　in　lingering　affection　on　the　peaks　they　love　so　well　to　illumine。　No　two　nights　are　the　effects　the　same。　One　can　never　grow　weary　of　watching　them。　Sometimes　the　tones　are　soft　and　tender。　Again　the　vividness　of　the　flaming　colors　is　as　if　the　god　of　color　were　declaring　his　power；　and　demanding　special　homage。　From　the　soft　tint　of　rose…ashes　to　the　fiery　red　of　a　blinding　sun；　the　whole　gamut　of　colors　and　effects　is　used。　The　afterglow　is　by　many　considered　more　alluring　than　the　sunset　itself。

The　Canyon　Before　Sunrise。　An　exquisite　effect　is　seen　by　those　who　watch　the　Canyon　before　sunrise。　A　soft　flood　of　reddish　purple　fills　the　vault；　and　rests　in　perfect　harmony　upon　the　great　north　wall。　Little　by　little　the　darker　tints　are　subdued；　every　moment　adding　to　the　charm　of　the　changing　effects；　until　suddenly　the　sun　bursts　over　the　horizon；　floods　the　plateaus　with　light；　or　casts　dark　and　richly　purple　shadows；　and　this　sets　wall　and　recess；　mountain　butte　and　deep　abyss　in　startling　contrasts。

Returning　in　Time　for　Trains。　One　thing　should　be　noted　about　these　rim　or　trail　trips。　They　are　all　planned　so　as　to　afford　ample　time　for　meals　before　and　after　making　them　and　also　to　insure　the　catching　of　trains。　The　Fred　Harvey　system　runs　in　harmony　with　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　system；　so　that　no　matter　how　nervous　the　visitor；　he　may　rest　perfectly　contented　that　when　he　goes　on　any　of　these　trips　he　will　always　be　back　〃on　time；〃　both　for　meals　and　trains。



CHAPTER　VI。　How　To　Spend　Two　To　Five　Days　At　El　Tovar

Suggestions　for　Two　Days。　Suppose　the　visitor　to　the　Canyon　arrives　in　the　morning　on　an　early　train　and　must　leave　the　next　night；　how　can　he　best　fill　in　his　time？

In　the　morning　of　the　first　day　he　should　take　the　popular　drives　to　Yavapai　and　Hopi　Points；　and　the　afternoon　can　be　spent　in　driving　out　on　the　Hermit　Rim　Road　to　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail；　with　a　stop；　returning；　to　view　the　sunset　from　Hopi　Point。

The　second　day　can　be　well　spent　in　going　down　Bright　Angel　Trail。

Suggestions　for　Three　Days。　If　the　visitor　has　three　days　at　his　disposal；　let　him　spend　the　first　day　on　Hermit　Rim　Road；　the　second　day　he　can　drive　to　Grand　View　and　enjoy　the　eastern　end　of　the　Canyon。　These　trips　will　give　him　a　general　outlook　over　the　Canyon　from　all　the　salient　near　by　points　on　the　rim；　El　Tovar；　Yavapai　and　Grand　View　on　the　east；　and　Maricopa；　Hopi；　Mohave　and　Pima　west　on　Hermit　Rim　Road；　and　an　extensive　panorama　stretching　many　miles　from　the　end　of　the　road。

The　next　day　the　Bright　Angel　Trail　trip　may　be　made；　and　at　the　end　of　the　third　day　on　returning　from　this　trip；　the　traveler　will　be　able　to　assert　with　truthfulness　that　he　has　gained　a　reasonably　comprehensive　view　of　Grand　Canyon。

Suggestions　for　Four　or　Five　Days。　If　one　can　spend　four　or　five　days；　and　wishes　to　fill　every　hour　with　travel　and　sightseeing；　he　can　take　one　or　all　of　the　day's　experiences　already　suggested。

To　the　Boucher　Trail。　Then　let　him　plan　either　to　ride　a　saddle　animal　or　be　driven　to　the　head　of　the　Boucher　Trail　（about　six　thousand　five　hundred　feet　elevation）　through　the　forest　to　the　west；　by　Rowe's　Well；　a　distance　of　ten　miles。　This　trip　can　be　made　in　about　two　hours。　If　one　has　been　driven　to　this　point；　the　harness　is　removed　from　the　horses；　saddles　substituted；　and　the　descent　of　the　trail　begun。

Dripping　Spring。　It　is　a　little　over　a　mile　to　Dripping　Spring；　which　is　at　about　five　thousand　four　hundred　and　ninety…three　feet　elevation。　The　trail　descends　easily　at　first　through　a　beautiful　wooded　canyoncito；　where　it　is　completely　hidden　and　embowered　in　foliage。　Then　it　winds　its　way　down　and　around　the　cherty　limestone；　to　the　top　of　the　cross…bedded　sandstone；　down　which　zigzags　and　steps　lead　one　to　the　spring　itself。　This　is　located　in　a　picturesque　spot。　Picture　a　great；　overhanging　wall　at　the　very　bottom　of　the　cross…bedded　sandstone；　from　twelve　to　fifty　and　more　feet　high；　the　recess　being　perhaps　thirty　or　forty　feet　back。　From　the　rocks　above；　with　a　drop　of　about　fifteen　feet；　seeping　through　a　green　cluster　of　maidenhair　ferns；　the　pure　water　of　the　spring　drips　into　a　stone　trough　placed　to　receive　it。　Day　and　night；　winter　and　summer；　fair　weather　or　foul；　it　seldom　varies　its　quick；　tinkling；　merry　drip；　drip　into　the　receptacle　below。　Below　the　trough；　a　natural　cavity　in　the　rocks　receives　the　overflow；　and　here；　within　the　pool　and　on　its　edges；　aquatic　and　other　plants　grow　in　profusion。　By　the　side　of　this　ever…flowing　water；　Louis　Boucher；　the　builder　of　the　trail；　has　his　simple　home　camp。　Two　tents；　placed　end　to　end；　rest　against　the　wall；　well　protected　from　sun　and　rain；　though　the　morning's　sun　shines　in　freely。　Below　is　a　corral　for　horses；　mules　and　burros　used　on　the　trail。

Hermit　Basin。　Here；　after　lunch；　one　continues　on　his　trail　trip　to　the　river。　For　three　miles　the　trail　winds　in　and　out　of　the　recesses；　on　the　easily　rolling　ground　of　the　plateau。　There　are　no　sharp　descents。　For　about　half　a　mile　the　trail　is　in　Dripping　Spring　Amphitheatre；　an　alcove　on　the　edge　of　Hermit　Basin；　so　named　by　Louis　P。　Brown；　a　miner　and　prospector；　who；　in　the　early　eighties；　made　this　basin　his　home　while　engaged　in　prospecting　operations　in　the　Canyon。

As　the　plateau　passes　across　the　basin　and　out　to　the　open　Canyon；　the　scene　becomes　more　and　more　enlarged；　until　it　is　stupendous　and　vast　beyond　description。　Down　on　the　right；　Hermit　Creek　cuts　its　narrow　path　deeper　and　deeper；　until　it　reaches　the　red…wall　limestone；　where　it　makes　a　narrow　gorge；　that；　from　the　elevation　of　the　plateau；　seems　more　like　a　mere　slit　in　the　rock　than　a　gorge。　Louis　Boucher　assures　me　that　it　is　so　narrow　and　deep　that　he　has　seen　stars　from　its　recesses　at　midday；　and　I　record　his　statement　in　spite　of　the　fact　that　eminent　astronomers　have　told　me　that　such　a　sight　is　impossible。　Anyhow；　the　effect　of　that　stupendous　descent　is　such　as　to　almost　make　the　rider　on　the　trail　see　stars；　though　there　is　no　danger　to　any　one　with　ordinarily　steady　nerves。　Two　miles　out；　one　sees　the　continuation　of　one　arm　of　the　Bright　Angel　fault　in　the　shattered　strata　of　the　red　sandstone；　some　masses　of　which　are　toppled　over　at　the　base　of　Pima　Point。　It　was　this　fault　that　made　the　talus　slopes；　down　which　the　Boucher　Trail　descends；　and　also　the　great　eroded　recess　of　Hermit　Basin。

Columbus　Point。　The　nose　of　the　plateau　on　which　we　have　been　traveling；　now　directly　under　Yuma　Point；　is　named　Columbus　Point；　and　from　this　spot；　where　several　noted　American　painters　have　made　paintings　destined　to　become　memorable；　the　outlook　in　three　directions；　east；　west；　and　north；　forms　one　of　the　noblest　of　all　the　panoramas　of　the　Canyon　my　eye　has　ever　rested　upon。　Shiva's　Temple　is　almost　directly　opposite；　as　we　look　towards　the　northeast。　Stretches　of　the　river　are　exposed　east　and　west；　where　raging　rapids　send　up　their　roar　to　us。　Overhead　is　a　great　castellated　structure；　surmounted　by　a　lesser　building；　with　a　round　tower；　embattlements　and　all　the　architectural　accompaniments　of　an　elaborately　equipped　castle　of　ancient　Europe。　An　attempt　to　describe　all　the　objects　seen　in　the　heart　of　the　Canyon　is　needless。　Suffice　it　to　say　that　the　panorama　takes　in　e