the malay archipelago-2-第3部分

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y　a　breast　of　pure　white；　shoulders　of　azure　blue；　and　belly　of　vivid　crimson。　It　has　very　long　and　strong　legs；　and　hops　about　with　such　activity　in　the　dense　tangled　forest；　bristling　with　rocks；　as　to　make　it　very　difficult　to　shoot。

In　September　1858；　after　my　return　from　New　Guinea；　I　went　to　stay　some　time　at　the　village　of　Djilolo；　situated　in　a　bay　on　the　northern　peninsula。　Here　I　obtained　a　house　through　the　kindness　of　the　Resident　of　Ternate；　who　sent　orders　to　prepare　one　for　me。　The　first　walk　into　the　unexplored　forests　of　a　new　locality　is　a　moment　of　intense　interest　to　the　naturalist；　as　it　is　almost　sure　to　furnish　him　with　something　curious　or　hitherto　unknown。　The　first　thing　I　saw　here　was　a　flock　of　small　parroquets；　of　which　I　shot　a　pair；　and　was　pleased　to　find　a　most　beautiful　little　long…tailed　bird；　ornamented　with　green；　red；　and　blue　colours；　and　quite　new　to　me。　It　was　a　variety　of　the　Charmosyna　placentis；　one　of　the　smallest　and　most　elegant　of　the　brush…tongued　lories。　My　hunters　soon　shot　me　several　other　fine　birds；　and　I　myself　found　a　specimen　of　the　rare　and　beautiful　day…flying　moth；　Cocytia　d'Urvillei。

The　village　of　Djilolo　was　formerly　the　chief　residence　of　the　Sultans　of　Ternate；　till　about　eighty　years　ago；　when　at　the　request　of　the　Dutch　they　removed　to　their　present　abode。　The　place　was　then　no　doubt　much　more　populous；　as　is　indicated　by　the　wide　extent　of　cleared　land　in　the　neighbourhood；　now　covered　with　coarse　high　grass；　very　disagreeable　to　walk　through；　and　utterly　barren　to　the　naturalist。　A　few　days'　exploring　showed　me　that　only　some　small　patches　of　forest　remained　for　miles　wound；　and　the　result　was　a　scarcity　of　insects　and　a　very　limited　variety　of　birds；　which　obliged　me　to　change　my　locality。　There　was　another　village　called　Sahoe；　to　which　there　was　a　road　of　about　twelve　miles　overland；　and　this　had　been　recommended　to　me　as　a　good　place　for　birds；　and　as　possessing　a　large　population　both　of　Mahomotans　and　Alfuros；　which　latter　race　I　much　wished　to　see。　I　set　off　one　morning　to　examine　this　place　myself；　expecting　to　pass　through　some　extent　of　forest　on　my　way。　In　this　however　I　was　much　disappointed；　as　the　whole　road　lies　through　grass　and　scrubby　thickets；　and　it　was　only　after　reaching　the　village　of　Sahoe　that　some　high　forest　land　was　perceived　stretching　towards　the　mountains　to　the　north　of　it。　About　half…way　we　dad　to　pass　a　deep　river　on　a　bamboo　raft；　which　almost　sunk　beneath　us。　This　stream　was　said　to　rise　a　long　way　off　to　the　northward。

Although　Sahoe　did　not　at　all　appear　what　I　expected；　I　determined　to　give　it　a　trial；　and　a　few　days　afterwards　obtained　a　boat　to　carry　my　things　by　sea　while　I　walked　overland。　A　large　house　on　the　beach　belonging　to　the　Sultan　was　given　me。　It　stood　alone；　and　was　quite　open　on　every　side；　so　that　little　privacy　could　be　had；　but　as　I　only　intended　to　stay　a　short　time　I　made　it　do。　Avery；　few　days　dispelled　all　hopes　I　might　have　entertained　of　making　good　collections　in　this　place。　Nothing　was　to　be　found　in　every　direction　but　interminable　tracts　of　reedy　grass；　eight　or　ten　feet　high；　traversed　by　narrow　baths；　often　almost　impassable。　Here　and　there　were　clumps　of　fruit　trees；　patches　of　low　wood；　and　abundance　of　plantations　and　rice　grounds；　all　of　which　are；　in　tropical　regions；　a　very　desert　for　the　entomologist。　The　virgin　forest　that　I　was　in　search　of；　existed　only　on　the　summits　and　on　the　steep　rocky　sides　of　the　mountains　a　long　way　off；　and　in　inaccessible　situations。　In　the　suburbs　of　the　village　I　found　a　fair　number　of　bees　and　wasps；　and　some　small　but　interesting　beetles。　Two　or　three　new　birds　were　obtained　by　my　hunters；　and　by　incessant　inquiries　and　promises　í　succeeded　in　getting　the　natives　to　bring　me　some　land　shells；　among　which　was　a　very　fine　and　handsome　one；　Helix　pyrostoma。　I　was；　however；　completely　wasting　my　time　here　compared　with　what　I　might　be　doing　in　a　good　locality；　and　after　a　week　returned　to　Ternate；　quite　disappointed　with　my　first　attempts　at　collecting　in　Gilolo。

In　the　country　round　about　Sahoe；　and　in　the　interior；　there　is　a　large　population　of　indigenes；　numbers　of　whom　came　daily　into　the　village；　bringing　their　produce　for　sale；　while　others　were　engaged　as　labourers　by　the　Chinese　and　Ternate　traders。　A　careful　examination　convinced　me　that　these　people　are　radically　distinct　from　all　the　Malay　races。　Their　stature　and　their　features；　as　well　as　their　disposition　and　habits；　are　almost　the　same　as　those　of　the　Papuans；　their　hair　is　semi…Papuan…neither　straight；　smooth；　and　glossy；　like　all　true　Malays'；　nor　so　frizzly　and　woolly　as　the　perfect　Papuan　type；　but　always　crisp；　waved；　and　rough；　such　as　often　occurs　among　the　true　Papuans；　but　never　among　the　Malays。　Their　colour　alone　is　often　exactly　that　of　the　Malay；　or　even　lighter。　Of　course　there　has　been　intermixture；　and　there　occur　occasionally　individuals　which　it　is　difficult　to　classify；　but　in　most　cases　the　large；　somewhat　aquiline　nose；　with　elongated　apex；　the　tall　stature；　the　waved　hair；　the　bearded　face；　and　hairy　body；　as　well　as　the　less　reserved　manner　and　louder　voice；　unmistakeably　proclaim　the　Papuan　type。　Here　then　I　had　discovered　the　exact　boundary　lice　between　the　Malay　and　Papuan　races；　and　at　a　spot　where　no　other　writer　had　expected　it。　I　was　very　much　pleased　at　this　determination；　as　it　gave　me　a　clue　to　one　of　the　most　difficult　problems　in　Ethnology；　and　enabled　me　in　many　other　places　to　separate　the　two　races；　and　to　unravel　their　intermixtures。

On　my　return　from　Waigiou　in　1860；　I　stayed　some　days　on　the　southern　extremity　of　Gilolo；　but；　beyond　seeing　something　more　of　its　structure　and　general　character；　obtained　very　little　additional　information。　It　is　only　in　the　northern　peninsula　that　there　are　any　indígenes；　the　whole　of　the　rest　of　the　island；　with　Batchian　and　the　other　islands　westward；　being　exclusively　inhabited　by　Malay　tribes；　allied　to　those　of　Ternate　and　Tidore。　This　would　seem　to　indicate　that　the　Alfuros　were　a　comparatively　recent　immigration；　and　that　they　lead　come　from　the　north　or　east；　perhaps　from　some　of　the　islands　of　the　Pacific。　It　is　otherwise　difficult　to　understand　how　so　many　fertile　districts　should　possess　no　true　indigenes。

Gilolo；　or　Halmaheira　as　it　is　called　by　the　Malays　and　Dutch；　seems　to　have　been　recently　modified　by　upheaval　and　subsidence。　In　1673；　a　mountain　is　said　to　stave　been　upheaved　at　Gamokonora　on　the　northern　peninsula。　All　the　parts　that　I　have　seen　have　either　been　volcanic　or　coralline；　and　along　the　coast　there　are　fringing　coral　reefs　very　dangerous　to　navigation。　At　the　same　time；　the　character　of　its　natural　history　proves　it　to　be　a　rather　ancient　land；　since　it　possesses　a　number　of　animals　peculiar　to　itself　or　common　to　the　small　islands　around　it；　but　almost　always　distinct　from　those　of　New　Guinea　on　the　east；　of　Ceram　on　the　south；　and　of　Celebes　and　the　Sula　islands　on　the　west。

The　island　of　Morty；　close　to　the　north…eastern　extremity　of　Gilolo；　was　visited　by　my　assistant　Charles　Allen；　as　well　as　by　Dr。　Bernstein；　and　the　collections　obtained　there　present　some　curious　differences　from　those　of　the　main　island。　About　fifty…　six　species　of　land…birds　are　known　to　inhabit　this　island；　and　of　these；　a　kingfisher　（Tanysiptera　Boris）；　a　honey…sucker　（Tropidorhynchus　fuscicapillus）；　and　a　large　crow…like　starling　（Lycocorax　morotensis）；　are　quite　distinct　from　allied　species　found　in　Gilolo。　The　island　is　coralline　and　sandy；　and　we　must　therefore　believe　it　to　have　been　separated　from　Gilolo　at　a　somewhat　remote　epoch；　while　we　learn　from　its　natural　history　that　an　arm　of　the　sea　twenty…five　miles　wide　serves　to　limit　the　range　even　of　birds　of　considerable　powers　of　flight。

CHAPTER　XXIII。

TERNATE　TO　THE　KAIOA　ISLANDS　AND　BATCHIAN。

（OCTOBER　1858。）

ON　returning　to　Ternate　from　Sahoe；　I　at　once　began　　making　preparations　for　a　journey　to　Batchian；　an　island　which　I　had　been　constantly　recommended　to　visit　since　I　had　arrived　in　this　part　of　the　Moluccas。　After　all　was　ready　I　found　that　I　should　have　to　hire　a　boat；　as　no　opportunity　of　obtaining　a　passage　presented　itself。　I　accordingly　went　into　the　native　town；　and　could　only　find　two　boats　for　hire；　one　much　larger　than　I　required；　and　the　other　far　smaller　than　I　wished。　I　chose　the　smaller　one；　chiefly　because　it　would　not　cost　me　one…third　as　much　as　the　larger　one；　and　also　because　in　a　coasting　voyage　a　small　vessel　can　be　more　easily　managed；　and　more　readily　got　into　a　place　of　safety　during　violent　gales；　than　a　large　one。　I　took　with　me　my　Bornean　lad　Ali；　who　was　now　very　useful　to　me；　Lahagi；　a　native　of　Ternate；　a　very　good　steady　man；　and　a　fair　shooter；　who　had　been　with　me　to　New　Guinea；　Lahi；　a　native　of　Gilolo；　who　could　speak　Malay；　as　woodcutter　and　general　assistant；　and　Garo；　a　boy　who　was　to　act　as　cook。　As　the　boat　was　so　small　that　we　had　hardly　room　to　stow　ourselves　away　when　all　my　stores　were　on　board；　I　only　took　one　other　man　named　Latchi；　as　pilot。　He　was　a　Papuan　slave；　a　tall；　strong　black　fellow；　but　very　civil　and　careful。　The　boat　I　had　hired　from　a　Chinaman　named　Lau　Keng　Tong；　for　five　guilders　a　month。

We　started　on　the　morning　of　October　9th；　but　had　not　got　a　hundred　yards　from　land；　when　a　strong　head　wind　sprung　up；　against　which　we　could　not　row；　so　we　crept　along　shore　to　below　the　town；　and　waited　till　the　turn　of　the　tide　should　enable　us　to　cross　over　to　the　coast　of　Tidore。　About　three　in　the　afternoon　we　got　off；　and　found　that　our　boat　sailed　well；　and　would　keep　pretty　close　to　the　wind。　We　got　on　a　good　way　before　the　wind　fell　and　we　had　to　take　to　our　oars　again。　We　landed　on　a　nice　sandy　beach　to　cook　our　suppers；　just　as　the　sun　set　behind　the　rugged　volcanic　hills；　to　the　south　of　the　great　cone　of　Tidore；　and　soon　after　beheld　the　planet　Venus　shining　in　the　twilight　with　the　brilliancy　of　a　new　moon；　and　casting　a　very　distinct　shadow。　We　left　again　a　little　before　seven；　and　as　we　got　out　from　the　shadow　of　the　mountain　I　observed　a　bright　light　over　one　part　of　the　edge；　and　soon　after；　what　seemed　a　fire　of　remarkable　whiteness　on　the　very　summit　of　the　h