the complete writings-4-第31部分

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aerial　voyage。　　Some　were　below　us；　some　on　our　level；　they　were　all　in　well…defined；　distinct　masses；　molten　silver　on　deck；　below　trailing　rain；　and　attended　on　earth　by　gigantic　shadows　that　moved　with　them。　This　strange　fleet　of　battle…ships；　drifted　by　the　shifting　currents；　was　maneuvering　for　an　engagement。　　One　after　another；　as　they　came　into　range　about　our　peak　of　observation；　they　opened　fire。　　Sharp　flashes　of　lightning　darted　from　one　to　the　other；　a　jet　of　flame　from　one　leaped　across　the　interval　and　was　buried　in　the　bosom　of　its　adversary；　and　at　every　discharge　the　boom　of　great　guns　echoed　through　the　mountains。　　It　was　something　more　than　a　royal　salute　to　the　tomb　of　the　mortal　at　our　feet；　for　the　masses　of　cloud　were　rent　in　the　fray；　at　every　discharge　the　rain　was　precipitated　in　increasing　torrents；　and　soon　the　vast　hulks　were　trailing　torn　fragments　and　wreaths　of　mist；　like　the　shot…away　shrouds　and　sails　of　ships　in　battle。　　Gradually；　from　this　long…range　practice　with　single　guns　and　exchange　of　broadsides；　they　drifted　into　closer　conflict；　rushed　together；　and　we　lost　sight　of　the　individual　combatants　in　the　general　tumult　of　this　aerial　war。

We　had　barely　twenty　minutes　for　our　observations；　when　it　was　time　to　go；　and　had　scarcely　left　the　peak　when　the　clouds　enveloped　it。　We　hastened　down　under　the　threatening　sky　to　the　saddles　and　the　luncheon。　　Just　off　from　the　summit；　amid　the　rocks；　is　a　complete　arbor；　or　tunnel；　of　rhododendrons。　　This　cavernous　place　a　Western　writer　has　made　the　scene　of　a　desperate　encounter　between　Big　Tom　and　a　catamount；　or　American　panther；　which　had　been　caught　in　a　trap　and　dragged　it　there；　pursued　by　Wilson。　　It　is　an　exceedingly　graphic　narrative；　and　is　enlivened　by　the　statement　that　Big　Tom　had　the　night　before　drunk　up　all　the　whisky　of　the　party　which　had　spent　the　night　on　the　summit。　　Now　Big　Tom　assured　us　that　the　whisky　part　of　the　story　was　an　invention；　he　was　not　（which　is　true）　in　the　habit　of　using　it；　if　he　ever　did　take　any；　it　might　be　a　drop　on　Mitchell；　in　fact；　when　he　inquired　if　we　had　a　flask；　he　remarked　that　a　taste　of　it　would　do　him　good　then　and　there。　　We　regretted　the　lack　of　it　in　our　baggage。　　But　what　inclined　Big　Tom　to　discredit　the　Western　writer's　story　altogether　was　the　fact　that　he　never　in　his　life　had　had　a　difficulty　with　a　catamount；　and　never　had　seen　one　in　these　mountains。

Our　lunch　was　eaten　in　haste。　　Big　Tom　refused　the　chicken　he　had　provided　for　us；　and　strengthened　himself　with　slices　of　raw　salt　pork；　which　he　cut　from　a　hunk　with　his　clasp…knife。　　We　caught　and　saddled　our　horses；　who　were　reluctant　to　leave　the　rich　feed；　enveloped　ourselves　in　waterproofs；　and　got　into　the　stony　path　for　the　descent　just　as　the　torrent　came　down。　　It　did　rain。　　It　lightened；　the　thunder　crashed；　the　wind　howled　and　twisted　the　treetops。　　It　was　as　if　we　were　pursued　by　the　avenging　spirits　of　the　mountains　for　our　intrusion。　　Such　a　tempest　on　this　height　had　its　terrors　even　for　our　hardy　guide。　　He　preferred　to　be　lower　down　while　it　was　going　on。　　The　crash　and　reverberation　of　the　thunder　did　not　trouble　us　so　much　as　the　swish　of　the　wet　branches　in　our　faces　and　the　horrible　road；　with　its　mud；　tripping　roots；　loose　stones；　and　slippery　rocks。　　Progress　was　slow。　　The　horses　were　in　momentary　danger　of　breaking　their　legs。　　In　the　first　hour　there　was　not　much　descent。　　In　the　clouds　we　were　passing　over　Clingman；　Gibbs；　and　Holdback。　　The　rain　had　ceased；　but　the　mist　still　shut　off　all　view；　if　any　had　been　attainable；　and　bushes　and　paths　were　deluged。　　The　descent　was　more　uncomfortable　than　the　ascent；　and　we　were　compelled　a　good　deal　of　the　way　to　lead　the　jaded　horses　down　the　slippery　rocks。

》From　the　peak　to　the　Widow　Patten's；　where　we　proposed　to　pass　the　night；　is　twelve　miles；　a　distance　we　rode　or　scrambled　down；　every　step　of　the　road　bad；　in　five　and　a　half　hours。　　Halfway　down　we　came　out　upon　a　cleared　place；　a　farm；　with　fruit…trees　and　a　house　in　ruins。　　Here　had　been　a　summer　hotel　much　resorted　to　before　the　war；　but　now　abandoned。　　Above　it　we　turned　aside　for　the　view　from　Elizabeth　rock；　named　from　the　daughter　of　the　proprietor　of　the　hotel；　who　often　sat　here；　said　Big　Tom；　before　she　went　out　of　this　world。　　It　is　a　bold　rocky　ledge；　and　the　view　from　it；　looking　south；　is　unquestionably　the　finest；　the　most　pleasing　and　picture…　like；　we　found　in　these　mountains。　　In　the　foreground　is　the　deep　gorge　of　a　branch　of　the　Swannanoa；　and　opposite　is　the　great　wall　of　the　Blue　Ridge　（the　Blue　Ridge　is　the　most　capricious　and　inexplicable　system）　making　off　to　the　Blacks。　　The　depth　of　the　gorge；　the　sweep　of　the　sky　line；　and　the　reposeful　aspect　of　the　scene　to　the　sunny　south　made　this　view　both　grand　and　charming。　Nature　does　not　always　put　the　needed　dash　of　poetry　into　her　extensive　prospects。

Leaving　this　clearing　and　the　now　neglected　spring；　where　fashion　used　to　slake　its　thirst；　we　zigzagged　down　the　mountain…side　through　a　forest　of　trees　growing　at　every　step　larger　and　nobler；　and　at　length　struck　a　small　stream；　the　North　Fork　of　the　Swannanoa；　which　led　us　to　the　first　settlement。　　Just　at　night；it　was　nearly　seven　o'clock；we　entered　one　of　the　most　stately　forests　I　have　ever　seen；　and　rode　for　some　distance　in　an　alley　of　rhododendrons　that　arched　overhead　and　made　a　bower。　　It　was　like　an　aisle　in　a　temple；　high　overhead　was　the　somber；　leafy　roof；　supported　by　gigantic　columns。　　Few　widows　have　such　an　avenue　of　approach　to　their　domain　as　the　Widow　Patten　has。

Cheering　as　this　outcome　was　from　the　day's　struggle　and　storm；　the　Professor　seemed　sunk　in　a　profound　sadness。　　The　auguries　which　the　Friend　drew　from　these　signs　of　civilization　of　a　charming　inn　and　a　royal　supper　did　not　lighten　the　melancholy　of　his　mind。　　〃Alas；〃　he　said；

　　　　〃Why　didst　thou　promise　such　a　beauteous　day；　　　　　　And　make　me　travel　forth　without　my　cloak；　　　　　　To　let　base　clouds　o'ertake　me　in　my　way；　　　　　　Hiding　thy　bravery　in　their　rotten　smoke？　　　　　　'T　is　not　enough　that　through　the　cloud　thou　break；　　　　　　To　dry　the　rain　on　my　storm…beaten　face；　　　　　　For　no　man　well　of　such　a　salve　can　speak　　　　　　That　heals　the　wound；　and　cures　not　the　disgrace：　　　　　　Nor　can　thy　shame　give　physic　to　my　grief：　　　　　　Though　thou　repent；　yet　I　have　still　the　loss。〃

〃Loss　of　what？〃　　cried　the　Friend；　as　he　whipped　up　his　halting　steed。

〃Loss　of　self…respect。　　I　feel　humiliated　that　I　consented　to　climb　this　mountain。〃

〃Nonsense！　　You'll　live　to　thank　me　for　it；　as　the　best　thing　you　ever　did。　　It's　over　and　done　now；　and　you've　got　it　to　tell　your　friends。〃

〃That's　just　the　trouble。　　They'll　ask　me　if　I　went　up　Mitchell；　and　I　shall　have　to　say　I　did。　　My　character　for　consistency　is　gone。　Not　that　I　care　much　what　they　think；　but　my　own　self…respect　is　gone。　　I　never　believed　I　would　do　it。　　A　man　ca'nt　afford　to　lower　himself　in　his　own　esteem；　at　my　time　of　life。〃

The　Widow　Patten's　was　only　an　advanced　settlement　in　this　narrow　valley　on　the　mountain…side；　but　a　little　group　of　buildings；　a　fence；　and　a　gate　gave　it　the　air　of　a　place；　and　it　had　once　been　better　cared　for　than　it　is　now。　　Few　travelers　pass　that　way；　and　the　art　of　entertaining；　if　it　ever　existed；　is　fallen　into　desuetude。　　We　unsaddled　at　the　veranda；　and　sat　down　to　review　our　adventure；　make　the　acquaintance　of　the　family；　and　hear　the　last　story　from　Big　Tom。　　The　mountaineer；　though　wet；　was　as　fresh　as　a　daisy；　and　fatigue　in　no　wise　checked　the　easy；　cheerful　flow　of　his　talk。　　He　was　evidently　a　favorite　with　his　neighbors；　and　not　unpleasantly　conscious　of　the　extent　of　his　reputation。　　But　he　encountered　here　another　social　grade。　　The　Widow　Patten　was　highly　connected。　　We　were　not　long　in　discovering　that　she　was　an　Alexander。　　She　had　been　a　schoolmate　of　Senator　Vance；〃　Zeb　Vance　〃he　still　was　to　her；and　the　senator　and　his　wife　had　stayed　at　her　house。　　I　wish　I　could　say　that　the　supper；　for　which　we　waited　till　nine　o'clock；　was　as　〃highly　connected　〃　as　the　landlady。　　It　was；　however；　a　supper　that　left　its　memory。　　We　were　lodged　in　a　detached　house；　which　we　had　to　ourselves；　where　a　roaring　wood　fire　made　amends　for　other　things　lacking。　　It　was　necessary　to　close　the　doors　to　keep　out　the　wandering　cows　and　pigs；　and　I　am　bound　to　say　that；　notwithstanding　the　voices　of　the　night；　we　slept　there　the　sleep　of　peace。

In　the　morning　a　genuine　surprise　awaited　us；　it　seemed　impossible；　but　the　breakfast　was　many　degrees　worse　than　the　supper；　and　when　we　paid　our　bill；　large　for　the　region；　we　were　consoled　by　the　thought　that　we　paid　for　the　high　connection　as　well　as　for　the　accommodations。　　This　is　a　regular　place　of　entertainment；　and　one　is　at　liberty　to　praise　it　without　violation　of　delicacy。

The　broken　shoe　of　Jack　required　attention；　and　we　were　all　the　morning　hunting　a　blacksmith；　as　we　rode　down　the　valley。　　Three　blacksmith's　shanties　were　found；　and　after　long　waiting　to　send　for　the　operator　it　turned　out　in　each　case　that　he　had　no　shoes；　no　nails；　no　iron　to　make　either　of。　　We　made　a　detour　of　three　miles　to　what　was　represented　as　a　regular　shop。　　The　owner　had　secured　the　service　of　a　colored　blacksmith　for　a　special　job；　and　was；　not　inclined　to　accommodate　us；　he　had　no　shoes；　no　nails。　　But　the　colored　blacksmith；　who　appreciated　the　plight　we　were　in；　offered　to　make　a　shoe；　and　to　crib　four　nails　from　those　he　had　laid　aside　for　a　couple　of　mules；　and　after　a　good　deal　of　delay；　we　were　enabled　to　go　on。　　The　incident　shows；　as　well　as　anything；　the　barrenness　and　shiftlessness　of　the　region。　　A　horseman　with　whom　we　rode　in　the　morning　gave　us　a　very　low　estimate　of　the　trustworthiness　of　the　inhabitants。　　The　valley　is　wild　and　very　pretty　all　the　way　down　to　Colonel　Long's；twelve　miles；but　the　wretched…looking　people　along　the　way　live　in　a　wretched　manner。

Just　before　reaching　Colonel　Long's　we　forded　the　stream　（here　of　good　size）；　the　bridge　having　tumbled　down；　and　encountered　a　party　of　picnickers　under　the　treessigns　of　civilization；　a　railway　station　is　not　far　off。　　Colonel　Long's　is　a　typical　Southern　establishment：　a　white　house；　or　rather　three　house