unbeaten tracks in japan-第12部分

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his　own　quarries。　　After　this　come　118　magnificent　bronze　lanterns
on　massive　stone　pedestals；　each　of　which　is　inscribed　with　the
posthumous　title　of　Iyeyasu；　the　name　of　the　giver；　and　a　legend　of
the　offeringall　the　gifts　of　daimiyoa　holy　water　cistern　made
of　a　solid　block　of　granite；　and　covered　by　a　roof　resting　on
twenty　square　granite　pillars；　and　a　bronze　bell；　lantern；　and
candelabra　of　marvellous　workmanship；　offered　by　the　kings　of　Corea
and　Liukiu。　　On　the　left　is　a　five…storied　pagoda；　104　feet　high；
richly　carved　in　wood　and　as　richly　gilded　and　painted。　　The　signs
of　the　zodiac　run　round　the　lower　story。

The　grand　entrance　gate　is　at　the　top　of　a　handsome　flight　of　steps
forty　yards　from　the　torii。　　A　looped　white　curtain　with　the
Mikado's　crest　in　black；　hangs　partially　over　the　gateway；　in
which；　beautiful　as　it　is；　one　does　not　care　to　linger；　to　examine
the　gilded　amainu　in　niches；　or　the　spirited　carvings　of　tigers
under　the　eaves；　for　the　view　of　the　first　court　overwhelms　one　by
its　magnificence　and　beauty。　　The　whole　style　of　the　buildings；　the
arrangements；　the　art　of　every　kind；　the　thought　which　inspires　the
whole；　are　exclusively　Japanese；　and　the　glimpse　from　the　Ni…o　gate
is　a　revelation　of　a　previously　undreamed…of　beauty；　both　in　form
and　colour。

Round　the　neatly　pebbled　court；　which　is　enclosed　by　a　bright　red
timber　wall；　are　three　gorgeous　buildings；　which　contain　the
treasures　of　the　temple；　a　sumptuous　stable　for　the　three　sacred
Albino　horses；　which　are　kept　for　the　use　of　the　god；　a　magnificent
granite　cistern　of　holy　water；　fed　from　the　Somendaki　cascade；　and
a　highly　decorated　building；　in　which　a　complete　collection　of
Buddhist　Scriptures　is　deposited。　　From　this　a　flight　of　steps
leads　into　a　smaller　court　containing　a　bell…tower　〃of　marvellous
workmanship　and　ornamentation；〃　a　drum…tower；　hardly　less
beautiful；　a　shrine；　the　candelabra；　bell；　and　lantern　mentioned
before；　and　some　very　grand　bronze　lanterns。

From　this　court　another　flight　of　steps　ascends　to　the　Yomei　gate；
whose　splendour　I　contemplated　day　after　day　with　increasing
astonishment。　　The　white　columns　which　support　it　have　capitals
formed　of　great　red…throated　heads　of　the　mythical　Kirin。　　Above
the　architrave　is　a　projecting　balcony　which　runs　all　round　the
gateway　with　a　railing　carried　by　dragons'　heads。　　In　the　centre
two　white　dragons　fight　eternally。　　Underneath；　in　high　relief；
there　are　groups　of　children　playing；　then　a　network　of　richly
painted　beams；　and　seven　groups　of　Chinese　sages。　　The　high　roof　is
supported　by　gilded　dragons'　heads　with　crimson　throats。　　In　the
interior　of　the　gateway　there　are　side…niches　painted　white；　which
are　lined　with　gracefully　designed　arabesques　founded　on　the　botan
or　peony。　　A　piazza；　whose　outer　walls　of　twenty…one　compartments
are　enriched　with　magnificent　carvings　of　birds；　flowers；　and
trees；　runs　right　and　left；　and　encloses　on　three　of　its　sides
another　court；　the　fourth　side　of　which　is　a　terminal　stone　wall
built　against　the　side　of　the　hill。　　On　the　right　are　two　decorated
buildings；　one　of　which　contains　a　stage　for　the　performance　of　the
sacred　dances；　and　the　other　an　altar　for　the　burning　of　cedar　wood
incense。　　On　the　left　is　a　building　for　the　reception　of　the　three
sacred　cars　which　were　used　during　festivals。　　To　pass　from　court
to　court　is　to　pass　from　splendour　to　splendour；　one　is　almost　glad
to　feel　that　this　is　the　last；　and　that　the　strain　on　one's
capacity　for　admiration　is　nearly　over。

In　the　middle　is　the　sacred　enclosure；　formed　of　gilded　trellis…
work　with　painted　borders　above　and　below；　forming　a　square　of
which　each　side　measures　150　feet；　and　which　contains　the　haiden　or
chapel。　　Underneath　the　trellis　work　are　groups　of　birds；　with
backgrounds　of　grass；　very　boldly　carved　in　wood　and　richly　gilded
and　painted。　　From　the　imposing　entrance　through　a　double　avenue　of
cryptomeria；　among　courts；　gates；　temples；　shrines；　pagodas；
colossal　bells　of　bronze；　and　lanterns　inlaid　with　gold；　you　pass
through　this　final　court　bewildered　by　magnificence；　through　golden
gates；　into　the　dimness　of　a　golden　temple；　and　there　issimply　a
black　lacquer　table　with　a　circular　metal　mirror　upon　it。

Within　is　a　hall　finely　matted；　42　feet　wide　by　27　from　front　to
back；　with　lofty　apartments　on　each　side；　one　for　the　Shogun　and
the　other　〃for　his　Holiness　the　Abbot。〃　　Both；　of　course；　are
empty。　　The　roof　of　the　hall　is　panelled　and　richly　frescoed。　　The
Shogun's　room　contains　some　very　fine　fusuma；　on　which　kirin
（fabulous　monsters）　are　depicted　on　a　dead　gold　ground；　and　four
oak　panels；　8　feet　by　6；　finely　carved；　with　the　phoenix　in　low
relief　variously　treated。　　In　the　Abbot's　room　there　are　similar
panels　adorned　with　hawks　spiritedly　executed。　　The　only
ecclesiastical　ornament　among　the　dim　splendours　of　the　chapel　is
the　plain　gold　gohei。　　Steps　at　the　back　lead　into　a　chapel　paved
with　stone；　with　a　fine　panelled　ceiling　representing　dragons　on　a
dark　blue　ground。　　Beyond　this　some　gilded　doors　lead　into　the
principal　chapel；　containing　four　rooms　which　are　not　accessible；
but　if　they　correspond　with　the　outside；　which　is　of　highly
polished　black　lacquer　relieved　by　gold；　they　must　be　severely
magnificent。

But　not　in　any　one　of　these　gorgeous　shrines　did　Iyeyasu　decree
that　his　dust　should　rest。　　Re…entering　the　last　court；　it　is
necessary　to　leave　the　enclosures　altogether　by　passing　through　a
covered　gateway　in　the　eastern　piazza　into　a　stone　gallery；　green
with　mosses　and　hepaticae。　　Within；　wealth　and　art　have　created　a
fairyland　of　gold　and　colour；　without；　Nature；　at　her　stateliest；
has　surrounded　the　great　Shogun's　tomb　with　a　pomp　of　mournful
splendour。　　A　staircase　of　240　stone　steps　leads　to　the　top　of　the
hill；　where；　above　and　behind　all　the　stateliness　of　the　shrines
raised　in　his　honour；　the　dust　of　Iyeyasu　sleeps　in　an　unadorned
but　Cyclopean　tomb　of　stone　and　bronze；　surmounted　by　a　bronze　urn。
In　front　is　a　stone　table　decorated　with　a　bronze　incense…burner；　a
vase　with　lotus　blossoms　and　leaves　in　brass；　and　a　bronze　stork
bearing　a　bronze　candlestick　in　its　mouth。　　A　lofty　stone　wall；
surmounted　by　a　balustrade；　surrounds　the　simple　but　stately
enclosure；　and　cryptomeria　of　large　size　growing　up　the　back　of　the
hill　create　perpetual　twilight　round　it。　　Slant　rays　of　sunshine
alone　pass　through　them；　no　flower　blooms　or　bird　sings；　only
silence　and　mournfulness　surround　the　grave　of　the　ablest　and
greatest　man　that　Japan　has　produced。

Impressed　as　I　had　been　with　the　glorious　workmanship　in　wood；
bronze；　and　lacquer；　I　scarcely　admired　less　the　masonry　of　the
vast　retaining　walls；　the　stone　gallery；　the　staircase　and　its
balustrade；　all　put　together　without　mortar　or　cement；　and　so
accurately　fitted　that　the　joints　are　scarcely　affected　by　the
rain；　damp；　and　aggressive　vegetation　of　260　years。　　The　steps　of
the　staircase　are　fine　monoliths；　and　the　coping　at　the　side；　the
massive　balustrade；　and　the　heavy　rail　at　the　top；　are　cut　out　of
solid　blocks　of　stone　from　10　to　18　feet　in　length。　　Nor　is　the
workmanship　of　the　great　granite　cistern　for　holy　water　less
remarkable。　　It　is　so　carefully　adjusted　on　its　bed　that　the　water
brought　from　a　neighbouring　cascade　rises　and　pours　over　each　edge
in　such　carefully　equalised　columns　that；　as　Mr。　Satow　says；　〃it
seems　to　be　a　solid　block　of　water　rather　than　a　piece　of　stone。〃

The　temples　of　Iyemitsu　are　close　to　those　of　Iyeyasu；　and　though
somewhat　less　magnificent　are　even　more　bewildering；　as　they　are
still　in　Buddhist　hands；　and　are　crowded　with　the　gods　of　the
Buddhist　Pantheon　and　the　splendid　paraphernalia　of　Buddhist
worship；　in　striking　contrast　to　the　simplicity　of　the　lonely
Shinto　mirror　in　the　midst　of　the　blaze　of　gold　and　colour。　　In　the
grand　entrance　gate　are　gigantic　Ni…o；　the　Buddhist　Gog　and　Magog；
vermilion　coloured；　and　with　draperies　painted　in　imitation　of
flowered　silk。　　A　second　pair；　painted　red　and　green；　removed　from
Iyemitsu's　temple；　are　in　niches　within　the　gate。　　A　flight　of
steps　leads　to　another　gate；　in　whose　gorgeous　niches　stand　hideous
monsters；　in　human　form；　representing　the　gods　of　wind　and　thunder。
Wind　has　crystal　eyes　and　a　half…jolly；　half…demoniacal　expression。
He　is　painted　green；　and　carries　a　wind…bag　on　his　back；　a　long
sack　tied　at　each　end；　with　the　ends　brought　over　his　shoulders　and
held　in　his　hands。　　The　god　of　thunder　is　painted　red；　with　purple
hair　on　end；　and　stands　on　clouds　holding　thunderbolts　in　his　hand。
More　steps；　and　another　gate　containing　the　Tenno；　or　gods　of　the
four　quarters；　boldly　carved　and　in　strong　action；　with　long　eye…
teeth；　and　at　last　the　principal　temple　is　reached。　　An　old　priest
who　took　me　over　it　on　my　first　visit；　on　passing　the　gods　of　wind
and　thunder　said；　〃We　used　to　believe　in　these　things；　but　we　don't
now；〃　and　his　manner　in　speaking　of　the　other　deities　was　rather
contemptuous。　　He　requested　me；　however；　to　take　off　my　hat　as　well
as　my　shoes　at　the　door　of　the　temple。　　Within　there　was　a　gorgeous
shrine；　and　when　an　acolyte　drew　aside　the　curtain　of　cloth　of　gold
the　interior　was　equally　imposing；　containing　Buddha　and　two　other
figures　of　gilded　brass；　seated　cross…legged　on　lotus…flowers；　with
rows　of　petals　several　times　repeated；　and　with　that　look　of
eternal　repose　on　their　faces　which　is　reproduced　in　the　commonest
road…side　images。　　In　front　of　the　shrine　several　candles　were
burning；　the　offerings　of　some　people　who　were　having　prayers　said
for　them；　and　the　whole　was　lighted　by　two　lamps　burning　low。　　On　a
step　of　the　altar　a　much…contorted　devil　was　crouching　uneasily；
for　he　was　subjugated　and；　by　a　grim　irony；　made　to　carry　a　massive
incense…burner　on　his　shoulders。　　In　this　temple　there　were　more
than　a　hundred　idols　standing　in　rows；　many　of　them　life…size；　some
of　them　trampling　devils　under　their　feet；　but　all　hideous；　partly
from　the　bright　greens；　vermilions；　and　blues　with　which　they　are
painted。　　Remarkable　muscular　development　characterises　all；　and
the　figures　or　faces　are　all　in　vigorous　action　of　some　kind；
generally　gr