unbeaten tracks in japan-第2部分

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single；　wide…sleeved；　scanty；　blue　cotton　garment；　not　fastened　or
girdled　at　the　waist；　straw　sandals；　kept　on　by　a　thong　passing
between　the　great　toe　and　the　others；　and　if　they　wear　any　head…
gear；　it　is　only　a　wisp　of　blue　cotton　tied　round　the　forehead。
The　one　garment　is　only　an　apology　for　clothing；　and　displays　lean
concave　chests　and　lean　muscular　limbs。　　The　skin　is　very　yellow；
and　often　much　tattooed　with　mythical　beasts。　　The　charge　for
sampans　is　fixed　by　tariff；　so　the　traveller　lands　without　having
his　temper　ruffled　by　extortionate　demands。

The　first　thing　that　impressed　me　on　landing　was　that　there　were　no
loafers；　and　that　all　the　small；　ugly；　kindly…looking；　shrivelled；
bandy…legged；　round…shouldered；　concave…chested；　poor…looking
beings　in　the　streets　had　some　affairs　of　their　own　to　mind。　　At
the　top　of　the　landing…steps　there　was　a　portable　restaurant；　a
neat　and　most　compact　thing；　with　charcoal　stove；　cooking　and
eating　utensils　complete；　but　it　looked　as　if　it　were　made　by　and
for　dolls；　and　the　mannikin　who　kept　it　was　not　five　feet　high。　　At
the　custom…house　we　were　attended　to　by　minute　officials　in　blue
uniforms　of　European　pattern　and　leather　boots；　very　civil
creatures；　who　opened　and　examined　our　trunks　carefully；　and
strapped　them　up　again；　contrasting　pleasingly　with　the　insolent
and　rapacious　officials　who　perform　the　same　duties　at　New　York。

Outside　were　about　fifty　of　the　now　well…known　jin…ti…ki…shas；　and
the　air　was　full　of　a　buzz　produced　by　the　rapid　reiteration　of
this　uncouth　word　by　fifty　tongues。　　This　conveyance；　as　you　know；
is　a　feature　of　Japan；　growing　in　importance　every　day。　　It　was
only　invented　seven　years　ago；　and　already　there　are　nearly　23；000
in　one　city；　and　men　can　make　so　much　more　by　drawing　them　than　by
almost　any　kind　of　skilled　labour；　that　thousands　of　fine　young　men
desert　agricultural　pursuits　and　flock　into　the　towns　to　make
draught…animals　of　themselves；　though　it　is　said　that　the　average
duration　of　a　man's　life　after　he　takes　to　running　is　only　five
years；　and　that　the　runners　fall　victims　in　large　numbers　to
aggravated　forms　of　heart　and　lung　disease。　　Over　tolerably　level
ground　a　good　runner　can　trot　forty　miles　a　day；　at　a　rate　of　about
four　miles　an　hour。　　They　are　registered　and　taxed　at　8s。　a　year
for　one　carrying　two　persons；　and　4s。　for　one　which　carries　one
only；　and　there　is　a　regular　tariff　for　time　and　distance。

The　kuruma；　or　jin…ri…ki…sha；　｛2｝　consists　of　a　light　perambulator
body；　an　adjustable　hood　of　oiled　paper；　a　velvet　or　cloth　lining
and　cushion；　a　well　for　parcels　under　the　seat；　two　high　slim
wheels；　and　a　pair　of　shafts　connected　by　a　bar　at　the　ends。　　The
body　is　usually　lacquered　and　decorated　according　to　its　owner's
taste。　　Some　show　little　except　polished　brass；　others　are
altogether　inlaid　with　shells　known　as　Venus's　ear；　and　others　are
gaudily　painted　with　contorted　dragons；　or　groups　of　peonies；
hydrangeas；　chrysanthemums；　and　mythical　personages。　　They　cost
from　2　pounds　upwards。　　The　shafts　rest　on　the　ground　at　a　steep
incline　as　you　get　init　must　require　much　practice　to　enable　one
to　mount　with　ease　or　dignitythe　runner　lifts　them　up；　gets　into
them；　gives　the　body　a　good　tilt　backwards；　and　goes　off　at　a　smart
trot。　　They　are　drawn　by　one；　two；　or　three　men；　according　to　the
speed　desired　by　the　occupants。　　When　rain　comes　on；　the　man　puts
up　the　hood；　and　ties　you　and　it　closely　up　in　a　covering　of　oiled
paper；　in　which　you　are　invisible。　　At　night；　whether　running　or
standing　still；　they　carry　prettily…painted　circular　paper　lanterns
18　inches　long。　　It　is　most　comical　to　see　stout；　florid；　solid…
looking　merchants；　missionaries；　male　and　female；　fashionably…
dressed　ladies；　armed　with　card　cases；　Chinese　compradores；　and
Japanese　peasant　men　and　women　flying　along　Main　Street；　which　is
like　the　decent　respectable　High　Street　of　a　dozen　forgotten
country　towns　in　England；　in　happy　unconsciousness　of　the
ludicrousness　of　their　appearance；　racing；　chasing；　crossing　each
other；　their　lean；　polite；　pleasant　runners　in　their　great　hats
shaped　like　inverted　bowls；　their　incomprehensible　blue　tights；　and
their　short　blue　over…shirts　with　badges　or　characters　in　white
upon　them；　tearing　along；　their　yellow　faces　streaming　with
perspiration；　laughing；　shouting；　and　avoiding　collisions　by　a　mere
shave。

After　a　visit　to　the　Consulate　I　entered　a　kuruma　and；　with　two
ladies　in　two　more；　was　bowled　along　at　a　furious　pace　by　a
laughing　little　mannikin　down　Main　Streeta　narrow；　solid；　well…
paved　street　with　well…made　side　walks；　kerb…stones；　and　gutters；
with　iron　lamp…posts；　gas…lamps；　and　foreign　shops　all　along　its
lengthto　this　quiet　hotel　recommended　by　Sir　Wyville　Thomson；
which　offers　a　refuge　from　the　nasal　twang　of　my　fellow…voyagers；
who　have　all　gone　to　the　caravanserais　on　the　Bund。　　The　host　is　a
Frenchman；　but　he　relies　on　a　Chinaman；　the　servants　are　Japanese
〃boys〃　in　Japanese　clothes；　and　there　is　a　Japanese　〃groom　of　the
chambers〃　in　faultless　English　costume；　who　perfectly　appals　me　by
the　elaborate　politeness　of　his　manner。

Almost　as　soon　as　I　arrived　I　was　obliged　to　go　in　search　of　Mr。
Fraser's　office　in　the　settlement；　I　say　SEARCH；　for　there　are　no
names　on　the　streets；　where　there　are　numbers　they　have　no
sequence；　and　I　met　no　Europeans　on　foot　to　help　me　in　my
difficulty。　　Yokohama　does　not　improve　on　further　acquaintance。　　It
has　a　dead…alive　look。　　It　has　irregularity　without
picturesqueness；　and　the　grey　sky；　grey　sea；　grey　houses；　and　grey
roofs；　look　harmoniously　dull。　　No　foreign　money　except　the　Mexican
dollar　passes　in　Japan；　and　Mr。　Fraser's　compradore　soon
metamorphosed　my　English　gold　into　Japanese　satsu　or　paper　money；　a
bundle　of　yen　nearly　at　par　just　now　with　the　dollar；　packets　of
50；　20；　and　10　sen　notes；　and　some　rouleaux　of　very　neat　copper
coins。　　The　initiated　recognise　the　different　denominations　of
paper　money　at　a　glance　by　their　differing　colours　and　sizes；　but
at　present　they　are　a　distracting　mystery　to　me。　　The　notes　are
pieces　of　stiff　paper　with　Chinese　characters　at　the　corners；　near
which；　with　exceptionally　good　eyes　or　a　magnifying　glass；　one　can
discern　an　English　word　denoting　the　value。　　They　are　very　neatly
executed；　and　are　ornamented　with　the　chrysanthemum　crest　of　the
Mikado　and　the　interlaced　dragons　of　the　Empire。

I　long　to　get　away　into　real　Japan。　　Mr。　Wilkinson；　H。B。M。's　acting
consul；　called　yesterday；　and　was　extremely　kind。　　He　thinks　that
my　plan　for　travelling　in　the　interior　is　rather　too　ambitious；　but
that　it　is　perfectly　safe　for　a　lady　to　travel　alone；　and　agrees
with　everybody　else　in　thinking　that　legions　of　fleas　and　the
miserable　horses　are　the　great　drawbacks　of　Japanese　travelling。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　II



Sir　Harry　ParkesAn　〃Ambassador's　Carriage〃Cart　Coolies。

YOKOHAMA；　May　22。

To…day　has　been　spent　in　making　new　acquaintances；　instituting　a
search　for　a　servant　and　a　pony；　receiving　many　offers　of　help；
asking　questions　and　receiving　from　different　people　answers　which
directly　contradict　each　other。　　Hours　are　early。　　Thirteen　people
called　on　me　before　noon。　　Ladies　drive　themselves　about　the　town
in　small　pony　carriages　attended　by　running　grooms　called　bettos。
The　foreign　merchants　keep　kurumas　constantly　standing　at　their
doors；　finding　a　willing；　intelligent　coolie　much　more　serviceable
than　a　lazy；　fractious；　capricious　Japanese　pony；　and　even　the
dignity　of　an　〃Ambassador　Extraordinary　and　Minister
Plenipotentiary〃　is　not　above　such　a　lowly　conveyance；　as　I　have
seen　to…day。　　My　last　visitors　were　Sir　Harry　and　Lady　Parkes；　who
brought　sunshine　and　kindliness　into　the　room；　and　left　it　behind
them。　　Sir　Harry　is　a　young…looking　man　scarcely　in　middle　life；
slight；　active；　fair；　blue…eyed；　a　thorough　Saxon；　with　sunny　hair
and　a　sunny　smile；　a　sunshiny　geniality　in　his　manner；　and　bearing
no　trace　in　his　appearance　of　his　thirty　years　of　service　in　the
East；　his　sufferings　in　the　prison　at　Peking；　and　the　various
attempts　upon　his　life　in　Japan。　　He　and　Lady　Parkes　were　most
truly　kind；　and　encourage　me　so　heartily　in　my　largest　projects　for
travelling　in　the　interior；　that　I　shall　start　as　soon　as　I　have
secured　a　servant。　　When　they　went　away　they　jumped　into　kurumas；
and　it　was　most　amusing　to　see　the　representative　of　England
hurried　down　the　street　in　a　perambulator　with　a　tandem　of　coolies。

As　I　look　out　of　the　window　I　see　heavy；　two…wheeled　man…carts
drawn　and　pushed　by　four　men　each；　on　which　nearly　all　goods；
stones　for　building；　and　all　else；　are　carried。　　The　two　men　who
pull　press　with　hands　and　thighs　against　a　cross…bar　at　the　end　of
a　heavy　pole；　and　the　two　who　push　apply　their　shoulders　to　beams
which　project　behind；　using　their　thick；　smoothly…shaven　skulls　as
the　motive　power　when　they　push　their　heavy　loads　uphill。　　Their
cry　is　impressive　and　melancholy。　　They　draw　incredible　loads；　but；
as　if　the　toil　which　often　makes　every　breath　a　groan　or　a　gasp
were　not　enough；　they　shout　incessantly　with　a　coarse；　guttural
grunt；　something　like　Ha　huida；　Ho　huida；　wa　ho；　Ha　huida；　etc。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　III



Yedo　and　TokiyoThe　Yokohama　RailroadThe　Effect　of　MisfitsThe
Plain　of　YedoPersonal　PeculiaritiesFirst　Impressions　of　Tokiyo…
…H。　B。　M。's　LegationAn　English　Home。

H。B。M。's　LEGATION；　YEDO；　May　24。

I　have　dated　my　letter　Yedo；　according　to　the　usage　of　the　British
Legation；　but　popularly　the　new　name　of　Tokiyo；　or　Eastern　Capital；
is　used；　Kiyoto；　the　Mikado's　former　residence；　having　received　the
name　of　Saikio；　or　Western　Capital；　though　it　has　now　no　claim　to
be　regarded　as　a　capital　at　all。　　Yedo　belongs　to　the　old　regime
and　the　Shogunate；　Tokiyo　to　the　new　regime　and　the　Restoration；
with　their　history　of　ten　years。　　It　would　seem　an　incongruity　to
travel　to　Yedo　by　railway；　but　quite　proper　when　the　destination　is
Tokiyo。

The　journey　between　the　two　cities　is　performed　in　an　hour　by　an
admirable；　well…metalled；　double…track　railroad；　18　miles　long；
with　iron　bridges；　neat　stations；　and　substantial　roomy　termini；
built　by　E