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unbeaten tracks in japan-第27部分

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pond。  In it; as in most towns; there were shops which sell nothing
but white; frothy…looking cakes; which are used for the goldfish
which are so much prized; and three times daily the women and
children of the household came into the garden to feed them。

When I left Komatsu there were fully sixty people inside the house
and 1500 outsidewalls; verandahs; and even roofs being packed。
From Nikko to Komatsu mares had been exclusively used; but there I
encountered for the first time the terrible Japanese pack…horse。
Two horridly fierce…looking creatures were at the door; with their
heads tied down till their necks were completely arched。  When I
mounted the crowd followed; gathering as it went; frightening the
horse with the clatter of clogs and the sound of a multitude; till
he broke his head…rope; and; the frightened mago letting him go; he
proceeded down the street mainly on his hind feet; squealing; and
striking savagely with his fore feet; the crowd scattering to the
right and left; till; as it surged past the police station; four
policemen came out and arrested it; only to gather again; however;
for there was a longer street; down which my horse proceeded in the
same fashion; and; looking round; I saw Ito's horse on his hind
legs and Ito on the ground。  My beast jumped over all ditches;
attacked all foot…passengers with his teeth; and behaved so like a
wild animal that not all my previous acquaintance with the
idiosyncrasies of horses enabled me to cope with him。  On reaching
Akayu we found a horse fair; and; as all the horses had their heads
tightly tied down to posts; they could only squeal and lash out
with their hind feet; which so provoked our animals that the
baggage horse; by a series of jerks and rearings; divested himself
of Ito and most of the baggage; and; as I dismounted from mine; he
stood upright; and my foot catching I fell on the ground; when he
made several vicious dashes at me with his teeth and fore feet;
which were happily frustrated by the dexterity of some mago。  These
beasts forcibly remind me of the words; 〃Whose mouth must be held
with bit and bridle; lest they turn and fall upon thee。〃

It was a lovely summer day; though very hot; and the snowy peaks of
Aidzu scarcely looked cool as they glittered in the sunlight。  The
plain of Yonezawa; with the prosperous town of Yonezawa in the
south; and the frequented watering…place of Akayu in the north; is
a perfect garden of Eden; 〃tilled with a pencil instead of a
plough;〃 growing in rich profusion rice; cotton; maize; tobacco;
hemp; indigo; beans; egg…plants; walnuts; melons; cucumbers;
persimmons; apricots; pomegranates; a smiling and plenteous land;
an Asiatic Arcadia; prosperous and independent; all its bounteous
acres belonging to those who cultivate them; who live under their
vines; figs; and pomegranates; free from oppressiona remarkable
spectacle under an Asiatic despotism。  Yet still Daikoku is the
chief deity; and material good is the one object of desire。

It is an enchanting region of beauty; industry; and comfort;
mountain girdled; and watered by the bright Matsuka。  Everywhere
there are prosperous and beautiful farming villages; with large
houses with carved beams and ponderous tiled roofs; each standing
in its own grounds; buried among persimmons and pomegranates; with
flower…gardens under trellised vines; and privacy secured by high;
closely…clipped screens of pomegranate and cryptomeria。  Besides
the villages of Yoshida; Semoshima; Kurokawa; Takayama; and
Takataki; through or near which we passed; I counted over fifty on
the plain with their brown; sweeping barn roofs looking out from
the woodland。  I cannot see any differences in the style of
cultivation。  Yoshida is rich and prosperous…looking; Numa poor and
wretched…looking; but the scanty acres of Numa; rescued from the
mountain…sides; are as exquisitely trim and neat; as perfectly
cultivated; and yield as abundantly of the crops which suit the
climate; as the broad acres of the sunny plain of Yonezawa; and
this is the case everywhere。  〃The field of the sluggard〃 has no
existence in Japan。

We rode for four hours through these beautiful villages on a road
four feet wide; and then; to my surprise; after ferrying a river;
emerged at Tsukuno upon what appears on the map as a secondary
road; but which is in reality a main road 25 feet wide; well kept;
trenched on both sides; and with a line of telegraph poles along
it。  It was a new world at once。  The road for many miles was
thronged with well…dressed foot…passengers; kurumas; pack…horses;
and waggons either with solid wheels; or wheels with spokes but no
tires。  It is a capital carriage…road; but without carriages。  In
such civilised circumstances it was curious to see two or four
brown skinned men pulling the carts; and quite often a man and his
wifethe man unclothed; and the woman unclothed to her waist
doing the same。  Also it struck me as incongruous to see telegraph
wires above; and below; men whose only clothing consisted of a sun…
hat and fan; while children with books and slates were returning
from school; conning their lessons。

At Akayu; a town of hot sulphur springs; I hoped to sleep; but it
was one of the noisiest places I have seen。  In the most crowded
part; where four streets meet; there are bathing sheds; which were
full of people of both sexes; splashing loudly; and the yadoya
close to it had about forty rooms; in nearly all of which several
rheumatic people were lying on the mats; samisens were twanging;
and kotos screeching; and the hubbub was so unbearable that I came
on here; ten miles farther; by a fine new road; up an uninteresting
strath of rice…fields and low hills; which opens out upon a small
plain surrounded by elevated gravelly hills; on the slope of one of
which Kaminoyama; a watering…place of over 3000 people; is
pleasantly situated。  It is keeping festival; there are lanterns
and flags on every house; and crowds are thronging the temple
grounds; of which there are several on the hills above。  It is a
clean; dry place; with beautiful yadoyas on the heights; and
pleasant houses with gardens; and plenty of walks over the hills。
The people say that it is one of the driest places in Japan。  If it
were within reach of foreigners; they would find it a wholesome
health resort; with picturesque excursions in many directions。

This is one of the great routes of Japanese travel; and it is
interesting to see watering…places with their habits; amusements;
and civilisation quite complete; but borrowing nothing from Europe。
The hot springs here contain iron; and are strongly impregnated
with sulphuretted hydrogen。  I tried the temperature of three; and
found them 100 degrees; 105 degrees; and 107 degrees。  They are
supposed to be very valuable in rheumatism; and they attract
visitors from great distances。  The police; who are my frequent
informants; tell me that there are nearly 600 people now staying
here for the benefit of the baths; of which six daily are usually
taken。  I think that in rheumatism; as in some other maladies; the
old…fashioned Japanese doctors pay little attention to diet and
habits; and much to drugs and external applications。  The benefit
of these and other medicinal waters would be much increased if
vigorous friction replaced the dabbing with soft towels。

This is a large yadoya; very full of strangers; and the house…
mistress; a buxom and most prepossessing widow; has a truly
exquisite hotel for bathers higher up the hill。  She has eleven
children; two or three of whom are tall; handsome; and graceful
girls。  One blushed deeply at my evident admiration; but was not
displeased; and took me up the hill to see the temples; baths; and
yadoyas of this very attractive place。  I am much delighted with
her grace and savoir faire。  I asked the widow how long she had
kept the inn; and she proudly answered; 〃Three hundred years;〃 not
an uncommon instance of the heredity of occupations。

My accommodation is uniquea kura; or godown; in a large
conventional garden; in which is a bath…house; which receives a hot
spring at a temperature of 105 degrees; in which I luxuriate。  Last
night the mosquitoes were awful。  If the widow and her handsome
girls had not fanned me perseveringly for an hour; I should not
have been able to write a line。  My new mosquito net succeeds
admirably; and; when I am once within it; I rather enjoy the
disappointment of the hundreds of drumming blood…thirsty wretches
outside。

The widow tells me that house…masters pay 2 yen once for all for
the sign; and an annual tax of 2 yen on a first…class yadoya; 1 yen
for a second; and 50 cents for a third; with 5 yen for the license
to sell sake。

These 〃godowns〃 (from the Malay word gadong); or fire…proof store…
houses; are one of the most marked features of Japanese towns; both
because they are white where all else is grey; and because they are
solid where all else is perishable。

I am lodged in the lower part; but the iron doors are open; and in
their place at night is a paper screen。  A few things are kept in
my room。  Two handsome shrines from which the unemotional faces of
two Buddhas looked out all night; a fine figure of the goddess
Kwan…non; and a venerable one of the god of longevity; suggested
curious dreams。

I。 L。 B。



LETTER XIX



ProsperityConvict LabourA New BridgeYamagataIntoxicating
ForgeriesThe Government BuildingsBad MannersSnow MountainsA
Wretched Town。

KANAYAMA; July 16。

Three days of travelling on the same excellent road have brought me
nearly 60 miles。  Yamagata ken impresses me as being singularly
prosperous; progressive; and go…ahead; the plain of Yamagata; which
I entered soon after leaving Kaminoyama; is populous and highly
cultivated; and the broad road; with its enormous traffic; looks
wealthy and civilised。  It is being improved by convicts in dull
red kimonos printed with Chinese characters; who correspond with
our ticket…of…leave men; as they are working for wages in the
employment of contractors and farmers; and are under no other
restriction than that of always wearing the prison dress。

At the Sakamoki river I was delighted to come upon the only

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