unbeaten tracks in japan-第40部分

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and　surrounded　by　hills；　one　low　range　forming　a　curtain　across　the
base　of　Iwakisan；　a　great　snow…streaked　dome；　which　rises　to　the
west　of　the　plain　to　a　supposed　height　of　5000　feet。　　The　water　had
risen　in　most　of　the　villages　to　a　height　of　four　feet；　and　had
washed　the　lower　part　of　the　mud　walls　away。　　The　people　were　busy
drying　their　tatami；　futons；　and　clothing；　reconstructing　their
dykes　and　small　bridges；　and　fishing　for　the　logs　which　were　still
coming　down　in　large　quantities。

In　one　town　two　very　shabby　policemen　rushed　upon　us；　seized　the
bridle　of　my　horse；　and　kept　me　waiting　for　a　long　time　in　the
middle　of　a　crowd；　while　they　toilsomely　bored　through　the
passport；　turning　it　up　and　down；　and　holding　it　up　to　the　light；
as　though　there　were　some　nefarious　mystery　about　it。　　My　horse
stumbled　so　badly　that　I　was　obliged　to　walk　to　save　myself　from
another　fall；　and；　just　as　my　powers　were　failing；　we　met　a　kuruma；
which　by　good　management；　such　as　being　carried　occasionally；
brought　me　into　Kuroishi；　a　neat　town　of　5500　people；　famous　for
the　making　of　clogs　and　combs；　where　I　have　obtained　a　very　neat；
airy；　upstairs　room；　with　a　good　view　over　the　surrounding　country
and　of　the　doings　of　my　neighbours　in　their　back　rooms　and　gardens。
Instead　of　getting　on　to　Aomori　I　am　spending　three　days　and　two
nights　here；　and；　as　the　weather　has　improved　and　my　room　is
remarkably　cheerful；　the　rest　has　been　very　pleasant。　　As　I　have
said　before；　it　is　difficult　to　get　any　information　about　anything
even　a　few　miles　off；　and　even　at　the　Post　Office　they　cannot　give
any　intelligence　as　to　the　date　of　the　sailings　of　the　mail　steamer
between　Aomori；　twenty　miles　off；　and　Hakodate。

The　police　were　not　satisfied　with　seeing　my　passport；　but　must
also　see　me；　and　four　of　them　paid　me　a　polite　but　domiciliary
visit　the　evening　of　my　arrival。　　That　evening　the　sound　of
drumming　was　ceaseless；　and　soon　after　I　was　in　bed　Ito　announced
that　there　was　something　really　worth　seeing；　so　I　went　out　in　my
kimono　and　without　my　hat；　and　in　this　disguise　altogether　escaped
recognition　as　a　foreigner。　　Kuroishi　is　unlighted；　and　I　was
tumbling　and　stumbling　along　in　overhaste　when　a　strong　arm　cleared
the　way；　and　the　house…master　appeared　with　a　very　pretty　lantern；
hanging　close　to　the　ground　from　a　cane　held　in　the　hand。　　Thus
came　the　phrase；　〃Thy　word　is　a　light　unto　my　feet。〃

We　soon　reached　a　point　for　seeing　the　festival　procession　advance
towards　us；　and　it　was　so　beautiful　and　picturesque　that　it　kept　me
out　for　an　hour。　　It　passes　through　all　the　streets　between　7　and
10　p。m。　each　night　during　the　first　week　in　August；　with　an　ark；　or
coffer；　containing　slips　of　paper；　on　which　（as　I　understand）
wishes　are　written；　and　each　morning　at　seven　this　is　carried　to
the　river　and　the　slips　are　cast　upon　the　stream。　　The　procession
consisted　of　three　monster　drums　nearly　the　height　of　a　man's　body；
covered　with　horsehide；　and　strapped　to　the　drummers；　end　upwards；
and　thirty　small　drums；　all　beaten　rub…a…dub…dub　without　ceasing。
Each　drum　has　the　tomoye　painted　on　its　ends。　　Then　there　were
hundreds　of　paper　lanterns　carried　on　long　poles　of　various　lengths
round　a　central　lantern；　20　feet　high；　itself　an　oblong　6　feet
long；　with　a　front　and　wings；　and　all　kinds　of　mythical　and
mystical　creatures　painted　in　bright　colours　upon　ita
transparency　rather　than　a　lantern；　in　fact。　　Surrounding　it　were
hundreds　of　beautiful　lanterns　and　transparencies　of　all　sorts　of
fanciful　shapesfans；　fishes；　birds；　kites；　drums；　the　hundreds　of
people　and　children　who　followed　all　carried　circular　lanterns；　and
rows　of　lanterns　with　the　tomoye　on　one　side　and　two　Chinese
characters　on　the　other　hung　from　the　eaves　all　along　the　line　of
the　procession。　　I　never　saw　anything　more　completely　like　a　fairy
scene；　the　undulating　waves　of　lanterns　as　they　swayed　along；　the
soft　lights　and　soft　tints　moving　aloft　in　the　darkness；　the
lantern…bearers　being　in　deep　shadow。　　This　festival　is　called　the
tanabata；　or　seiseki　festival；　but　I　am　unable　to　get　any
information　about　it。　　Ito　says　that　he　knows　what　it　means；　but　is
unable　to　explain；　and　adds　the　phrase　he　always　uses　when　in
difficulties；　〃Mr。　Satow　would　be　able　to　tell　you　all　about　it。〃
I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XXX



A　Lady's　ToiletHair…dressingPaint　and　CosmeticsAfternoon
VisitorsChristian　Converts。

KUROISHI；　August　5。

This　is　a　pleasant　place；　and　my　room　has　many　advantages　besides
light　and　cleanliness；　as；　for　instance；　that　I　overlook　my
neighbours　and　that　I　have　seen　a　lady　at　her　toilet　preparing　for
a　wedding！　　A　married　girl　knelt　in　front　of　a　black　lacquer
toilet…box　with　a　spray　of　cherry　blossoms　in　gold　sprawling　over
it；　and　lacquer　uprights　at　the　top；　which　supported　a　polished
metal　mirror。　　Several　drawers　in　the　toilet…box　were　open；　and
toilet　requisites　in　small　lacquer　boxes　were　lying　on　the　floor。
A　female　barber　stood　behind　the　lady；　combing；　dividing；　and　tying
her　hair；　which；　like　that　of　all　Japanese　women；　was　glossy　black；
but　neither　fine　nor　long。　　The　coiffure　is　an　erection；　a　complete
work　of　art。　　Two　divisions；　three　inches　apart；　were　made　along
the　top　of　the　head；　and　the　lock　of　hair　between　these　was　combed；
stiffened　with　a　bandoline　made　from　the　Uvario　Japonica；　raised
two　inches　from　the　forehead；　turned　back；　tied；　and　pinned　to　the
back　hair。　　The　rest　was　combed　from　each　side　to　the　back；　and
then　tied　loosely　with　twine　made　of　paper。　　Several　switches　of
false　hair　were　then　taken　out　of　a　long　lacquer　box；　and；　with　the
aid　of　a　quantity　of　bandoline　and　a　solid　pad；　the　ordinary　smooth
chignon　was　produced；　to　which　several　loops　and　bows　of　hair　were
added；　interwoven　with　a　little　dark…blue　crepe；　spangled　with
gold。　　A　single；　thick；　square…sided；　tortoiseshell　pin　was　stuck
through　the　whole　as　an　ornament。

The　fashions　of　dressing　the　hair　are　fixed。　　They　vary　with　the
ages　of　female　children；　and　there　is　a　slight　difference　between
the　coiffure　of　the　married　and　unmarried。　　The　two　partings　on　the
top　of　the　head　and　the　chignon　never　vary。　　The　amount　of
stiffening　used　is　necessary；　as　the　head　is　never　covered　out　of
doors。　　This　arrangement　will　last　in　good　order　for　a　week　or
morethanks　to　the　wooden　pillow。

The　barber's　work　was　only　partially　done　when　the　hair　was
dressed；　for　every　vestige　of　recalcitrant　eyebrow　was　removed；　and
every　downy　hair　which　dared　to　display　itself　on　the　temples　and
neck　was　pulled　out　with　tweezers。　　This　removal　of　all　short　hair
has　a　tendency　to　make　even　the　natural　hair　look　like　a　wig。　　Then
the　lady　herself　took　a　box　of　white　powder；　and　laid　it　on　her
face；　ears；　and　neck；　till　her　skin　looked　like　a　mask。　　With　a
camel's…hair　brush　she　then　applied　some　mixture　to　her　eyelids　to
make　the　bright　eyes　look　brighter；　the　teeth　were　blackened；　or
rather　reblackened；　with　a　feather　brush　dipped　in　a　solution　of
gall…nuts　and　iron…filingsa　tiresome　and　disgusting　process；
several　times　repeated；　and　then　a　patch　of　red　was　placed　upon　the
lower　lip。　　I　cannot　say　that　the　effect　was　pleasing；　but　the　girl
thought　so；　for　she　turned　her　head　so　as　to　see　the　general　effect
in　the　mirror；　smiled；　and　was　satisfied。　　The　remainder　of　her
toilet；　which　altogether　took　over　three　hours；　was　performed　in
private；　and　when　she　reappeared　she　looked　as　if　a　very　unmeaning…
looking　wooden　doll　had　been　dressed　up　with　the　exquisite　good
taste；　harmony；　and　quietness　which　characterise　the　dress　of
Japanese　women。

A　most　rigid　social　etiquette　draws　an　impassable　line　of
demarcation　between　the　costume　of　the　virtuous　woman　in　every　rank
and　that　of　her　frail　sister。　　The　humiliating　truth　that　many　of
our　female　fashions　are　originated　by　those　whose　position　we　the
most　regret；　and　are　then　carefully　copied　by　all　classes　of　women
in　our　country；　does　not　obtain　credence　among　Japanese　women；　to
whom　even　the　slightest　approximation　in　the　style　of　hair…
dressing；　ornament；　or　fashion　of　garments　would　be　a　shame。

I　was　surprised　to　hear　that　three　〃Christian　students〃　from
Hirosaki　wished　to　see　methree　remarkably　intelligent…looking；
handsomely…dressed　young　men；　who　all　spoke　a　little　English。　　One
of　them　had　the　brightest　and　most　intellectual　face　which　I　have
seen　in　Japan。　　They　are　of　the　samurai　class；　as　I　should　have
known　from　the　superior　type　of　face　and　manner。　　They　said　that
they　heard　that　an　English　lady　was　in　the　house；　and　asked　me　if　I
were　a　Christian；　but　apparently　were　not　satisfied　till；　in　answer
to　the　question　if　I　had　a　Bible；　I　was　able　to　produce　one。

Hirosaki　is　a　castle　town　of　some　importance；　3。5　ri　from　here；　and
its　ex…daimiyo　supports　a　high…class　school　or　college　there；　which
has　had　two　Americans　successively　for　its　headmasters。　　These
gentlemen　must　have　been　very　consistent　in　Christian　living　as
well　as　energetic　in　Christian　teaching；　for　under　their　auspices
thirty　young　men　have　embraced　Christianity。　　As　all　of　these　are
well　educated；　and　several　are　nearly　ready　to　pass　as　teachers
into　Government　employment；　their　acceptance　of　the　〃new　way〃　may
have　an　important　bearing　on　the　future　of　this　region。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XXXI



A　Travelling　CuriosityRude　DwellingsPrimitive　SimplicityThe
Public　Bath…house。

KUROISHI。

Yesterday　was　beautiful；　and；　dispensing　for　the　first　time　with
Ito's　attendance；　I　took　a　kuruma　for　the　day；　and　had　a　very
pleasant　excursion　into　a　cul　de　sac　in　the　mountains。　　The　one
drawback　was　the　infamous　road；　which　compelled　me　either　to　walk
or　be　mercilessly　jolted。　　The　runner　was　a　nice；　kind；　merry
creature；　quite　delighted；　Ito　said；　to　have　a　chance　of　carrying
so　great　a　sight　as　a　foreigner　into　a　district　in　which　no
foreigner　has　even　been　seen。　　In　the　absolute　security　of　Japanese
travelling；　which　I　have　fully　realised　for　a　long　time；　I　look
back　upon　my　fears　at　Kasukabe　with　a　feeling　of　self…contempt。

The　scenery；　which　was　extremely　pretty；　gained　everything　from
sunlight　and　colourwonderful　shades　of　cobalt　and　indigo；