unbeaten tracks in japan-第43部分

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Yesterday　I　dined　at　the　Consulate；　to　meet　Count　Diesbach；　of　the
French　Legation；　Mr。　Von　Siebold；　of　the　Austrian　Legation；　and
Lieutenant　Kreitner；　of　the　Austrian　army；　who　start　to…morrow　on
an　exploring　expedition　in　the　interior；　intending　to　cross　the
sources　of　the　rivers　which　fall　into　the　sea　on　the　southern　coast
and　measure　the　heights　of　some　of　the　mountains。　　They　are　〃well
found〃　in　food　and　claret；　but　take　such　a　number　of　pack…ponies
with　them　that　I　predict　that　they　will　fail；　and　that　I；　who　have
reduced　my　luggage　to　45　lbs。；　will　succeed！

I　hope　to　start　on　my　long…projected　tour　to…morrow；　I　have　planned
it　for　myself　with　the　confidence　of　an　experienced　traveller；　and
look　forward　to　it　with　great　pleasure；　as　a　visit　to　the
aborigines　is　sure　to　be　full　of　novel　and　interesting　experiences。
Good…bye　for　a　long　time。　　I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XXXV　｛17｝



A　Lovely　SunsetAn　Official　LetterA　〃Front　Horse〃Japanese
CourtesyThe　Steam　FerryCoolies　AbscondA　Team　of　SavagesA
Drove　of　HorsesFloral　BeautiesAn　Unbeaten　TrackA　Ghostly
DwellingSolitude　and　Eeriness。

GINSAINOMA；　YEZO；　August　17。

I　am　once　again　in　the　wilds！　　I　am　sitting　outside　an　upper　room
built　out　almost　over　a　lonely　lake；　with　wooded　points　purpling
and　still　shadows　deepening　in　the　sinking　sun。　　A　number　of　men
are　dragging　down　the　nearest　hillside　the　carcass　of　a　bear　which
they　have　just　despatched　with　spears。　　There　is　no　village；　and
the　busy　clatter　of　the　cicada　and　the　rustle　of　the　forest　are　the
only　sounds　which　float　on　the　still　evening　air。　　The　sunset
colours　are　pink　and　green；　on　the　tinted　water　lie　the　waxen　cups
of　great　water…lilies；　and　above　the　wooded　heights　the　pointed；
craggy；　and　altogether　naked　summit　of　the　volcano　of　Komono…taki
flushes　red　in　the　sunset。　　Not　the　least　of　the　charms　of　the
evening　is　that　I　am　absolutely　alone；　having　ridden　the　eighteen
miles　from　Hakodate　without　Ito　or　an　attendant　of　any　kind；　have
unsaddled　my　own　horse；　and　by　means　of　much　politeness　and　a
dexterous　use　of　Japanese　substantives　have　secured　a　good　room　and
supper　of　rice；　eggs；　and　black　beans　for　myself　and　a　mash　of
beans　for　my　horse；　which；　as　it　belongs　to　the　Kaitakushi；　and　has
the　dignity　of　iron　shoes；　is　entitled　to　special　consideration！

I　am　not　yet　off　the　〃beaten　track；〃　but　my　spirits　are　rising　with
the　fine　weather；　the　drier　atmosphere；　and　the　freedom　of　Yezo。
Yezo　is　to　the　main　island　of　Japan　what　Tipperary　is　to　an
Englishman；　Barra　to　a　Scotchman；　〃away　down　in　Texas〃　to　a　New
Yorkerin　the　rough；　little　known；　and　thinly…peopled；　and　people
can　locate　all　sorts　of　improbable　stories　here　without　much　fear
of　being　found　out；　of　which　the　Ainos　and　the　misdeeds　of　the
ponies　furnish　the　staple；　and　the　queer　doings　of　men　and　dogs；
and　adventures　with　bears；　wolves；　and　salmon；　the　embroidery。
Nobody　comes　here　without　meeting　with　something　queer；　and　one　or
two　tumbles　either　with　or　from　his　horse。　　Very　little　is　known　of
the　interior　except　that　it　is　covered　with　forest　matted　together
by　lianas；　and　with　an　undergrowth　of　scrub　bamboo　impenetrable
except　to　the　axe；　varied　by　swamps　equally　impassable；　which　give
rise　to　hundreds　of　rivers　well　stocked　with　fish。　　The　glare　of
volcanoes　is　seen　in　different　parts　of　the　island。　　The　forests
are　the　hunting…grounds　of　the　Ainos；　who　are　complete　savages　in
everything　but　their　disposition；　which　is　said　to　be　so　gentle　and
harmless　that　I　may　go　among　them　with　perfect　safety。

Kindly　interest　has　been　excited　by　the　first　foray　made　by　a　lady
into　the　country　of　the　aborigines；　and　Mr。　Eusden；　the　Consul；　has
worked　upon　the　powers　that　be　with　such　good　effect　that　the
Governor　has　granted　me　a　shomon；　a　sort　of　official　letter　or
certificate；　giving　me　a　right　to　obtain　horses　and　coolies
everywhere　at　the　Government　rate　of　6　sen　a　ri；　with　a　prior　claim
to　accommodation　at　the　houses　kept　up　for　officials　on　their
circuits；　and　to　help　and　assistance　from　officials　generally；　and
the　Governor　has　further　telegraphed　to　the　other　side　of　Volcano
Bay　desiring　the　authorities　to　give　me　the　use　of　the　Government
kuruma　as　long　as　I　need　it；　and　to　detain　the　steamer　to　suit　my
convenience！　　With　this　document；　which　enables　me　to　dispense　with
my　passport；　I　shall　find　travelling　very　easy；　and　I　am　very
grateful　to　the　Consul　for　procuring　it　for　me。

Here；　where　rice　and　tea　have　to　be　imported；　there　is　a　uniform
charge　at　the　yadoyas　of　30　sen　a　day；　which　includes　three　meals；
whether　you　eat　them　or　not。　　Horses　are　abundant；　but　are　small；
and　are　not　up　to　heavy　weights。　　They　are　entirely　unshod；　and；
though　their　hoofs　are　very　shallow　and　grow　into　turned…up　points
and　other　singular　shapes；　they　go　over　rough　ground　with　facility
at　a　scrambling　run　of　over　four　miles　an　hour　following　a　leader
called　a　〃front　horse。〃　　If　you　don't　get　a　〃front　horse〃　and　try
to　ride　in　front；　you　find　that　your　horse　will　not　stir　till　he
has　another　before　him；　and　then　you　are　perfectly　helpless；　as　he
follows　the　movements　of　his　leader　without　any　reference　to　your
wishes。　　There　are　no　mago；　a　man　rides　the　〃front　horse〃　and　goes
at　whatever　pace　you　please；　or；　if　you　get　a　〃front　horse；〃　you
may　go　without　any　one。　　Horses　are　cheap　and　abundant。　　They　drive
a　number　of　them　down　from　the　hills　every　morning　into　corrals　in
the　villages；　and　keep　them　there　till　they　are　wanted。　　Because
they　are　so　cheap　they　are　very　badly　used。　　I　have　not　seen　one
yet　without　a　sore　back；　produced　by　the　harsh　pack…saddle　rubbing
up　and　down　the　spine；　as　the　loaded　animals　are　driven　at　a　run。
They　are　mostly　very　poor…looking。

As　there　was　some　difficulty　about　getting　a　horse　for　me　the
Consul　sent　one　of　the　Kaitakushi　saddle…horses；　a　handsome；　lazy
animal；　which　I　rarely　succeeded　in　stimulating　into　a　heavy
gallop。　　Leaving　Ito　to　follow　with　the　baggage；　I　enjoyed　my
solitary　ride　and　the　possibility　of　choosing　my　own　pace　very
much；　though　the　choice　was　only　between　a　slow　walk　and　the
lumbering　gallop　aforesaid。

I　met　strings　of　horses　loaded　with　deer　hides；　and　overtook　other
strings　loaded　with　sake　and　manufactured　goods　and　in　each　case
had　a　fight　with　my　sociably　inclined　animal。　　In　two　villages　I
was　interested　to　see　that　the　small　shops　contained　lucifer
matches；　cotton　umbrellas；　boots；　brushes；　clocks；　slates；　and
pencils；　engravings　in　frames；　kerosene　lamps；　｛18｝　and　red　and
green　blankets；　all　but　the　last；　which　are　unmistakable　British
〃shoddy；〃　being　Japanese　imitations　of　foreign　manufactured　goods；
more　or　less　cleverly　executed。　　The　road　goes　up　hill　for　fifteen
miles；　and；　after　passing　Nanai；　a　trim　Europeanised　village　in　the
midst　of　fine　crops；　one　of　the　places　at　which　the　Government　is
making　acclimatisation　and　other　agricultural　experiments；　it
fairly　enters　the　mountains；　and　from　the　top　of　a　steep　hill　there
is　a　glorious　view　of　Hakodate　Head；　looking　like　an　island　in　the
deep　blue　sea；　and　from　the　top　of　a　higher　hill；　looking
northward；　a　magnificent　view　of　the　volcano　with　its　bare；　pink
summit　rising　above　three　lovely　lakes　densely　wooded。　　These　are
the　flushed　scaurs　and　outbreaks　of　bare　rock　for　which　I　sighed
amidst　the　smothering　greenery　of　the　main　island；　and　the　silver
gleam　of　the　lakes　takes　away　the　blindness　from　the　face　of
nature。　　It　was　delicious　to　descend　to　the　water's　edge　in　the
dewy　silence　amidst　balsamic　odours；　to　find　not　a　clattering　grey
village　with　its　monotony；　but　a　single；　irregularly…built　house；
with　lovely　surroundings。

It　is　a　most　displeasing　road　for　most　of　the　way；　sides　with　deep
corrugations；　and　in　the　middle　a　high　causeway　of　earth；　whose
height　is　being　added　to　by　hundreds　of　creels　of　earth　brought　on
ponies'　backs。　　It　is　supposed　that　carriages　and　waggons　will　use
this　causeway；　but　a　shying　horse　or　a　bad　driver　would　overturn
them。　　As　it　is　at　present　the　road　is　only　passable　for　pack…
horses；　owing　to　the　number　of　broken　bridges。　　I　passed　strings　of
horses　laden　with　sake　going　into　the　interior。　　The　people　of　Yezo
drink　freely；　and　the　poor　Ainos　outrageously。　　On　the　road　I
dismounted　to　rest　myself　by　walking　up　hill；　and；　the　saddle　being
loosely　girthed；　the　gear　behind　it　dragged　it　round　and　under　the
body　of　the　horse；　and　it　was　too　heavy　for　me　to　lift　on　his　back
again。　　When　I　had　led　him　for　some　time　two　Japanese　with　a　string
of　pack…horses　loaded　with　deer…hides　met　me；　and　not　only　put　the
saddle　on　again；　but　held　the　stirrup　while　I　remounted；　and　bowed
politely　when　I　went　away。　　Who　could　help　liking　such　a　courteous
and　kindly　people？

MORI；　VOLCANO　BAY；　Monday。

Even　Ginsainoma　was　not　Paradise　after　dark；　and　I　was　actually
driven　to　bed　early　by　the　number　of　mosquitoes。　　Ito　is　in　an
excellent　humour　on　this　tour。　　Like　me；　he　likes　the　freedom　of
the　Hokkaido。　　He　is　much　more　polite　and　agreeable　also；　and　very
proud　of　the　Governor's　shomon；　with　which　he　swaggers　into　hotels
and　Transport　Offices。　　I　never　get　on　so　well　as　when　he　arranges
for　me。　　Saturday　was　grey　and　lifeless；　and　the　ride　of　seven
miles　here　along　a　sandy　road　through　monotonous　forest　and　swamp；
with　the　volcano　on　one　side　and　low　wooded　hills　on　the　other；　was
wearisome　and　fatiguing。　　I　saw　five　large　snakes　all　in　a　heap；
and　a　number　more　twisting　through　the　grass。　　There　are　no
villages；　but　several　very　poor　tea…houses；　and　on　the　other　side
of　the　road　long　sheds　with　troughs　hollowed　like　canoes　out　of　the
trunks　of　trees；　containing　horse　food。　　Here　nobody　walks；　and　the
men　ride　at　a　quick　run；　sitting　on　the　tops　of　their　pack…saddles
with　their　legs　crossed　above　their　horses'　necks；　and　wearing
large　hats　like　coal…scuttle　bonnets。　　The　horses　are　infested　with
ticks；　hundreds　upon　one　animal　sometimes；　and　occasionally　they
become　so　mad　from　the　irritation　that　they　throw　themselves
suddenly　on　the　ground；　and　roll　over　load　and　rider。　　I　saw　this
done　twice。　　The　ticks　often　transfer　themselves　to　the　riders。

Mori　is　a　large；　ramshackle　v