unbeaten tracks in japan-第52部分

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does　not　appear　to　permit　either　of　variety　or　innovations；　in　all
the　style　is　the　same；　and　the　difference　consists　in　the　size　and
plenishings。　　The　dwellings　seem　ill…fitted　for　a　rigorous　climate；
but　the　same　thing　may　be　said　of　those　of　the　Japanese。　　In　their
houses；　as　in　their　faces；　the　Ainos　are　more　European　than　their
conquerors；　as　they　possess　doorways；　windows；　central　fireplaces；
like　those　of　the　Highlanders　of　Scotland；　and　raised　sleeping…
places。

The　usual　appearance　is　that　of　a　small　house　built　on　at　the　end
of　a　larger　one。　　The　small　house　is　the　vestibule　or　ante…room；
and　is　entered　by　a　low　doorway　screened　by　a　heavy　mat　of　reeds。
It　contains　the　large　wooden　mortar　and　pestle　with　two　ends；　used
for　pounding　millet；　a　wooden　receptacle　for　millet；　nets　or
hunting　gear；　and　some　bundles　of　reeds　for　repairing　roof　or
walls。　　This　room　never　contains　a　window。　　From　it　the　large　room
is　entered　by　a　doorway；　over　which　a　heavy　reed…mat；　bound　with
hide；　invariably　hangs。　　This　room　in　Benri's　case　is　35　feet　long
by　25　feet　broad；　another　is　45　feet　square；　the　smallest　measures
20　feet　by　15。　　On　entering；　one　is　much　impressed　by　the　great
height　and　steepness　of　the　roof；　altogether　out　of　proportion　to
the　height　of　the　walls。

The　frame　of　the　house　is　of　posts；　4　feet　10　inches　high；　placed　4
feet　apart；　and　sloping　slightly　inwards。　　The　height　of　the　walls
is　apparently　regulated　by　that　of　the　reeds；　of　which　only　one
length　is　used；　and　which　never　exceed　4　feet　10　inches。　　The　posts
are　scooped　at　the　top；　and　heavy　poles；　resting　on　the　scoops；　are
laid　along　them　to　form　the　top　of　the　wall。　　The　posts　are　again
connected　twice　by　slighter　poles　tied　on　horizontally。　　The　wall
is　double；　the　outer　part　being　formed　of　reeds　tied　very　neatly　to
the　framework　in　small；　regular　bundles；　the　inner　layer　or　wall
being　made　of　reeds　attached　singly。　　From　the　top　of　the　pole；
which　is　secured　to　the　top　of　the　posts；　the　framework　of　the　roof
rises　to　a　height　of　twenty…two　feet；　made；　like　the　rest；　of　poles
tied　to　a　heavy　and　roughly…hewn　ridge…beam。　　At　one　end　under　the
ridge…beam　there　is　a　large　triangular　aperture　for　the　exit　of
smoke。　　Two　very　stout；　roughly…hewn　beams　cross　the　width　of　the
house；　resting　on　the　posts　of　the　wall；　and　on　props　let　into　the
floor；　and　a　number　of　poles　are　laid　at　the　same　height；　by　means
of　which　a　secondary　roof　formed　of　mats　can　be　at　once
extemporised；　but　this　is　only　used　for　guests。　　These　poles　answer
the　same　purpose　as　shelves。　　Very　great　care　is　bestowed　upon　the
outside　of　the　roof；　which　is　a　marvel　of　neatness　and　prettiness；
and　has　the　appearance　of　a　series　of　frills　being　thatched　in
ridges。　　The　ridge…pole　is　very　thickly　covered；　and　the　thatch
both　there　and　at　the　corners　is　elaborately　laced　with　a　pattern
in　strong　peeled　twigs。　　The　poles；　which；　for　much　of　the　room；
run　from　wall　to　wall；　compel　one　to　stoop；　to　avoid　fracturing
one's　skull；　and　bringing　down　spears；　bows　and　arrows；　arrow…
traps；　and　other　primitive　property。　　The　roof　and　rafters　are
black　and　shiny　from　wood　smoke。　　Immediately　under　them；　at　one
end　and　one　side；　are　small；　square　windows；　which　are　closed　at
night　by　wooden　shutters；　which　during　the　day…time　hang　by　ropes。
Nothing　is　a　greater　insult　to　an　Aino　than　to　look　in　at　his
window。

On　the　left　of　the　doorway　is　invariably　a　fixed　wooden　platform；
eighteen　inches　high；　and　covered　with　a　single　mat；　which　is　the
sleeping…place。　　The　pillows　are　small　stiff　bolsters；　covered　with
ornamental　matting。　　If　the　family　be　large　there　are　several　of
these　sleeping　platforms。　　A　pole　runs　horizontally　at　a　fitting
distance　above　the　outside　edge　of　each；　over　which　mats　are　thrown
to　conceal　the　sleepers　from　the　rest　of　the　room。　　The　inside　half
of　these　mats　is　plain；　but　the　outside；　which　is　seen　from　the
room；　has　a　diamond　pattern　woven　into　it　in　dull　reds　and　browns。
The　whole　floor　is　covered　with　a　very　coarse　reed…mat；　with
interstices　half　an　inch　wide。　　The　fireplace；　which　is　six　feet
long；　is　oblong。　　Above　it；　on　a　very　black　and　elaborate
framework；　hangs　a　very　black　and　shiny　mat；　whose　superfluous　soot
forms　the　basis　of　the　stain　used　in　tattooing；　and　whose　apparent
purpose　is　to　prevent　the　smoke　ascending；　and　to　diffuse　it
equally　throughout　the　room。　　From　this　framework　depends　the　great
cooking…pot；　which　plays　a　most　important　part　in　Aino　economy。

Household　gods　form　an　essential　part　of　the　furnishing　of　every
house。　　In　this　one；　at　the　left　of　the　entrance；　there　are　ten
white　wands；　with　shavings　depending　from　the　upper　end；　stuck　in
the　wall；　another　projects　from　the　window　which　faces　the　sunrise；
and　the　great　goda　white　post；　two　feet　high；　with　spirals　of
shavings　depending　from　the　topis　always　planted　in　the　floor；
near　the　wall；　on　the　left　side；　opposite　the　fire；　between　the
platform　bed　of　the　householder　and　the　low；　broad　shelf　placed
invariably　on　the　same　side；　and　which　is　a　singular　feature　of　all
Aino　houses；　coast　and　mountain；　down　to　the　poorest；　containing；
as　it　does；　Japanese　curios；　many　of　them　very　valuable　objects　of
antique　art；　though　much　destroyed　by　damp　and　dust。　　They　are　true
curiosities　in　the　dwellings　of　these　northern　aborigines；　and　look
almost　solemn　ranged　against　the　wall。　　In　this　house　there　are
twenty…four　lacquered　urns；　or　tea…chests；　or　seats；　each　standing
two　feet　high　on　four　small　legs；　shod　with　engraved　or　filigree
brass。　　Behind　these　are　eight　lacquered　tubs；　and　a　number　of
bowls　and　lacquer　trays；　and　above　are　spears　with　inlaid　handles；
and　fine　Kaga　and　Awata　bowls。　　The　lacquer　is　good；　and　several　of
the　urns　have　daimiyo's　crests　in　gold　upon　them。　　One　urn　and　a
large　covered　bowl　are　beautifully　inlaid　with　Venus'　ear。　　The
great　urns　are　to　be　seen　in　every　house；　and　in　addition　there　are
suits　of　inlaid　armour；　and　swords　with　inlaid　hilts；　engraved
blades；　and　repousse　scabbards；　for　which　a　collector　would　give
almost　anything。　　No　offers；　however　liberal；　can　tempt　them　to
sell　any　of　these　antique　possessions。　　〃They　were　presents；〃　they
say　in　their　low；　musical　voices；　〃they　were　presents　from　those
who　were　kind　to　our　fathers；　no；　we　cannot　sell　them；　they　were
presents。〃　　And　so　gold　lacquer；　and　pearl　inlaying；　and　gold
niello…work；　and　daimiyo's　crests　in　gold；　continue　to　gleam　in　the
smoky　darkness　of　their　huts。　　Some　of　these　things　were　doubtless
gifts　to　their　fathers　when　they　went　to　pay　tribute　to　the
representative　of　the　Shogun　and　the　Prince　of　Matsumae；　soon　after
the　conquest　of　Yezo。　　Others　were　probably　gifts　from　samurai；　who
took　refuge　here　during　the　rebellion；　and　some　must　have　been
obtained　by　barter。　　They　are　the　one　possession　which　they　will
not　barter　for　sake；　and　are　only　parted　with　in　payment　of　fines
at　the　command　of　a　chief；　or　as　the　dower　of　a　girl。

Except　in　the　poorest　houses；　where　the　people　can　only　afford　to
lay　down　a　mat　for　a　guest；　they　cover　the　coarse　mat　with　fine
ones　on　each　side　of　the　fire。　　These　mats　and　the　bark…cloth　are
really　their　only　manufactures。　　They　are　made　of　fine　reeds；　with
a　pattern　in　dull　reds　or　browns；　and　are　14　feet　long　by　3　feet　6
inches　wide。　　It　takes　a　woman　eight　days　to　make　one　of　them。　　In
every　house　there　are　one　or　two　movable　platforms　6　feet　by　4　and
14　inches　high；　which　are　placed　at　the　head　of　the　fireplace；　and
on　which　guests　sit　and　sleep　on　a　bearskin　or　a　fine　mat。　　In　many
houses　there　are　broad　seats　a　few　inches　high；　on　which　the　elder
men　sit　cross…legged；　as　their　custom　is；　not　squatting　Japanese
fashion　on　the　heels。　　A　water…tub　always　rests　on　a　stand　by　the
door；　and　the　dried　fish　and　venison　or　bear　for　daily　use　hang
from　the　rafters；　as　well　as　a　few　skins。　　Besides　these　things
there　are　a　few　absolute　necessaries；lacquer　or　wooden　bowls　for
food　and　sake；　a　chopping…board　and　rude　chopping…knife；　a　cleft…
stick　for　burning　strips　of　birch…bark；　a　triply…cleft　stick　for
supporting　the　potsherd　in　which；　on　rare　occasions；　they　burn　a
wick　with　oil；　the　component　parts　of　their　rude　loom；　the　bark　of
which　they　make　their　clothes；　the　reeds　of　which　they　make　their
mats；and　the　inventory　of　the　essentials　of　their　life　is　nearly
complete。　　No　iron　enters　into　the　construction　of　their　houses；
its　place　being　supplied　by　a　remarkably　tenacious　fibre。

I　have　before　described　the　preparation　of　their　food；　which
usually　consists　of　a　stew　〃of　abominable　things。〃　　They　eat　salt
and　fresh　fish；　dried　fish；　seaweed；　slugs；　the　various　vegetables
which　grow　in　the　wilderness　of　tall　weeds　which　surrounds　their
villages；　wild　roots　and　berries；　fresh　and　dried　venison　and　bear；
their　carnival　consisting　of　fresh　bear's　flesh　and　sake；　seaweed；
mushrooms；　and　anything　they　can　get；　in　fact；　which　is　not
poisonous；　mixing　everything　up　together。　　They　use　a　wooden　spoon
for　stirring；　and　eat　with　chopsticks。　　They　have　only　two　regular
meals　a　day；　but　eat　very　heartily。　　In　addition　to　the　eatables
just　mentioned　they　have　a　thick　soup　made　from　a　putty…like　clay
which　is　found　in　one　or　two　of　the　valleys。　　This　is　boiled　with
the　bulb　of　a　wild　lily；　and；　after　much　of　the　clay　has　been
allowed　to　settle；　the　liquid；　which　is　very　thick；　is　poured　off。
In　the　north；　a　valley　where　this　earth　is　found　is　called　Tsie…
toi…nai；　literally　〃eat…earth…valley。〃

The　men　spend　the　autumn；　winter；　and　spring　in　hunting　deer　and
bears。　　Part　of　their　tribute　or　taxes　is　paid　in　skins；　and　they
subsist　on　the　dried　meat。　　Up　to　about　this　time　the　Ainos　have
obtained　these　beasts　by　means　of　poisoned　arrows；　arrow…traps；　and
pitfalls；　but　the　Japanese　Government　has　prohibited　the　use　of
poison　and　arrow…traps；　and　these　men　say　that　hunting　is　becoming
extremely　difficult；　as　the　wild　animals　are　driven　back　farther
and　farther　into　the　mountains　by　the　sound　of　the　guns。　　However；
they　add　significantly；　〃the　eyes　of　the　Japanese　Government　are
not　in　every　place！〃

Their　bows　are　only　three　feet　long；　and　are　made　of　stout