unbeaten tracks in japan-第59部分

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


abruptly　to　a　height　of　nearly　3000　feet；　I　should　think。

In　Yezo；　as　on　the　main　island；　one　can　learn　very　little　about　any
prospective　route。　　Usually　when　one　makes　an　inquiry　a　Japanese
puts　on　a　stupid　look；　giggles；　tucks　his　thumbs　into　his　girdle；
hitches　up　his　garments；　and　either　professes　perfect　ignorance　or
gives　one　some　vague　second…hand　information；　though　it　is　quite
possible　that　he　may　have　been　over　every　foot　of　the　ground
himself　more　than　once。　　Whether　suspicion　of　your　motives　in
asking；　or　a　fear　of　compromising　himself　by　answering；　is　at　the
bottom　of　this　I　don't　know；　but　it　is　most　exasperating　to　a
traveller。　　In　Hakodate　I　failed　to　see　Captain　Blakiston；　who　has
walked　round　the　whole　Yezo　sea…board；　and　all　I　was　able　to　learn
regarding　this　route　was　that　the　coast　was　thinly　peopled　by
Ainos；　that　there　were　Government　horses　which　could　be　got；　and
that　one　could　sleep　where　one　got　them；　that　rice　and　salt　fish
were　the　only　food；　that　there　were　many　〃bad　rivers；〃　and　that　the
road　went　over　〃bad　mountains；〃　that　the　only　people　who　went　that
way　were　Government　officials　twice　a　year；　that　one　could　not　get
on　more　than　four　miles　a　day；　that　the　roads　over　the　passes　were
〃all　big　stones；〃　etc。　etc。　　So　this　Usu…taki　took　me　altogether　by
surprise；　and　for　a　time　confounded　all　my　carefully…constructed
notions　of　locality。　　I　had　been　told　that　the　one　volcano　in　the
bay　was　Komono…taki；　near　Mori；　and　this　I　believed　to　be　eighty
miles　off；　and　there；　confronting　me；　within　a　distance　of　two
miles；　was　this　grand；　splintered；　vermilion…crested　thing；　with　a
far　nobler　aspect　than　that　of　〃THE〃　volcano；　with　a　curtain　range
in　front；　deeply　scored；　and　slashed　with　ravines　and　abysses　whose
purple　gloom　was　unlighted　even　by　the　noon…day　sun。　　One　of　the
peaks　was　emitting　black　smoke　from　a　deep　crater；　another　steam
and　white　smoke　from　various　rents　and　fissures　in　its　side
vermilion　peaks；　smoke；　and　steam　all　rising　into　a　sky　of
brilliant　blue；　and　the　atmosphere　was　so　clear　that　I　saw
everything　that　was　going　on　there　quite　distinctly；　especially
when　I　attained　an　altitude　exceeding　that　of　the　curtain　range。
It　was　not　for　two　days　that　I　got　a　correct　idea　of　its
geographical　situation；　but　I　was　not　long　in　finding　out　that　it
was　not　Komono…taki！　　There　is　much　volcanic　activity　about　it。　　I
saw　a　glare　from　it　last　night　thirty　miles　away。　　The　Ainos　said
that　it　was　〃a　god；〃　but　did　not　know　its　name；　nor　did　the
Japanese　who　were　living　under　its　shadow。　　At　some　distance　from
it　in　the　interior　rises　a　great　dome…like　mountain；　Shiribetsan；
and　the　whole　view　is　grand。

A　little　beyond　Mombets　flows　the　river　Osharu；　one　of　the　largest
of　the　Yezo　streams。　　It　was　much　swollen　by　the　previous　day's
rain；　and　as　the　ferry…boat　was　carried　away　we　had　to　swim　it；　and
the　swim　seemed　very　long。　　Of　course；　we　and　the　baggage　got　very
wet。　　The　coolness　with　which　the　Aino　guide　took　to　the　water
without　giving　us　any　notice　that　its　broad；　eddying　flood　was　a
swim；　and　not　a　ford；　was　very　amusing。

From　the　top　of　a　steepish　ascent　beyond　the　Osharugawa　there　is　a
view　into　what　looks　like　a　very　lovely　lake；　with　wooded
promontories；　and　little　bays；　and　rocky　capes　in　miniature；　and
little　heights；　on　which　Aino　houses；　with　tawny　roofs；　are
clustered；　and　then　the　track　dips　suddenly；　and　deposits　one；　not
by　a　lake　at　all；　but　on　Usu　Bay；　an　inlet　of　the　Pacific；　much
broken　up　into　coves；　and　with　a　very　narrow　entrance；　only　obvious
from　a　few　points。　　Just　as　the　track　touches　the　bay　there　is　a
road…post；　with　a　prayer…wheel　in　it；　and　by　the　shore　an　upright
stone　of　very　large　size；　inscribed　with　Sanskrit　characters；　near
to　a　stone　staircase　and　a　gateway　in　a　massive　stone…faced
embankment；　which　looked　much　out　of　keeping　with　the　general
wildness　of　the　place。　　On　a　rocky　promontory　in　a　wooded　cove
there　is　a　large；　rambling　house；　greatly　out　of　repair；　inhabited
by　a　Japanese　man　and　his　son；　who　are　placed　there　to　look　after
Government　interests；　exiles　among　500　Ainos。　　From　among　the
number　of　rat…haunted；　rambling　rooms　which　had　once　been　handsome；
I　chose　one　opening　on　a　yard　or　garden　with　some　distorted　yews　in
it；　but　found　that　the　great　gateway　and　the　amado　had　no　bolts；
and　that　anything　might　be　appropriated　by　any　one　with　dishonest
intentions；　but　the　house…master　and　his　son；　who　have　lived　for
ten　years　among　the　Ainos；　and　speak　their　language；　say　that
nothing　is　ever　taken；　and　that　the　Ainos　are　thoroughly　honest　and
harmless。　　Without　this　assurance　I　should　have　been　distrustful　of
the　number　of　wide…mouthed　youths　who　hung　about；　in　the
listlessness　and　vacuity　of　savagery；　if　not　of　the　bearded　men　who
sat　or　stood　about　the　gateway　with　children　in　their　arms。

Usu　is　a　dream　of　beauty　and　peace。　　There　is　not　much　difference
between　the　height　of　high　and　low　water　on　this　coast；　and　the
lake…like　illusion　would　have　been　perfect　had　it　not　been　that　the
rocks　were　tinged　with　gold　for　a　foot　or　so　above　the　sea　by　a
delicate　species　of　fucus。　　In　the　exquisite　inlet　where　I　spent
the　night；　trees　and　trailers　drooped　into　the　water　and　were
mirrored　in　it；　their　green；　heavy　shadows　lying　sharp　against　the
sunset　gold　and　pink　of　the　rest　of　the　bay；　log　canoes；　with
planks　laced　upon　their　gunwales　to　heighten　them；　were　drawn　upon
a　tiny　beach　of　golden　sand；　and　in　the　shadiest　cove；　moored　to　a
tree；　an　antique　and　much…carved　junk　was　〃floating　double。〃
Wooded；　rocky　knolls；　with　Aino　huts；　the　vermilion　peaks　of　the
volcano　of　Usu…taki　redder　than　ever　in　the　sinking　sun；　a　few
Ainos　mending　their　nets；　a　few　more　spreading　edible　seaweed　out
to　dry；　a　single　canoe　breaking　the　golden　mirror　of　the　cove　by
its　noiseless　motion；　a　few　Aino　loungers；　with　their　〃mild…eyed；
melancholy〃　faces　and　quiet　ways　suiting　the　quiet　evening　scene；
the　unearthly　sweetness　of　a　temple　bellthis　was　all；　and　yet　it
was　the　loveliest　picture　I　have　seen　in　Japan。

In　spite　of　Ito's　remonstrances　and　his　protestations　that　an
exceptionally　good　supper　would　be　spoiled；　I　left　my　rat…haunted
room；　with　its　tarnished　gilding　and　precarious　fusuma；　to　get　the
last　of　the　pink　and　lemon…coloured　glory；　going　up　the　staircase
in　the　stone…faced　embankment；　and　up　a　broad；　well…paved　avenue；
to　a　large　temple；　within　whose　open　door　I　sat　for　some　time
absolutely　alone；　and　in　a　wonderful　stillness；　for　the　sweet…toned
bell　which　vainly　chimes　for　vespers　amidst　this　bear…worshipping
population　had　ceased。　　This　temple　was　the　first　symptom　of
Japanese　religion　that　I　remember　to　have　seen　since　leaving
Hakodate；　and　worshippers　have　long　since　ebbed　away　from　its　shady
and　moss…grown　courts。　　Yet　it　stands　there　to　protest　for　the
teaching　of　the　great　Hindu；　and　generations　of　Aino　heathen　pass
away　one　after　another；　and　still　its　bronze　bell　tolls；　and　its
altar　lamps　are　lit；　and　incense　burns　for　ever　before　Buddha。　　The
characters　on　the　great　bell　of　this　temple　are　said　to　be　the　same
lines　which　are　often　graven　on　temple　bells；　and　to　possess　the
dignity　of　twenty…four　centuries：


〃All　things　are　transient；
They　being　born　must　die；
And　being　born　are　dead；
And　being　dead　are　glad
To　be　at　rest。〃


The　temple　is　very　handsome；　the　baldachino　is　superb；　and　the
bronzes　and　brasses　on　the　altar　are　specially　fine。　　A　broad　ray
of　sunlight　streamed　in；　crossed　the　matted　floor；　and　fell　full
upon　the　figure　of　Sakya…muni　in　his　golden　shrine；　and　just　at
that　moment　a　shaven　priest；　in　silk…brocaded　vestments　of　faded
green；　silently　passed　down　the　stream　of　light；　and　lit　the
candles　on　the　altar；　and　fresh　incense　filled　the　temple　with　a
drowsy　fragrance。　　It　was　a　most　impressive　picture。　　His　curiosity
evidently　shortened　his　devotions；　and　he　came　and　asked　me　where　I
had　been　and　where　I　was　going；　to　which；　of　course；　I　replied　in
excellent　Japanese；　and　then　stuck　fast。

Along　the　paved　avenue；　besides　the　usual　stone　trough　for　holy
water；　there　are　on　one　side　the　thousand…armed　Kwan…non；　a　very
fine　relief；　and　on　the　other　a　Buddha；　throned　on　the　eternal
lotus　blossom；　with　an　iron　staff；　much　resembling　a　crozier；　in
his　hand；　and　that　eternal　apathy　on　his　face　which　is　the　highest
hope　of　those　who　hope　at　all。　　I　went　through　a　wood；　where　there
are　some　mournful　groups　of　graves　on　the　hillside；　and　from　the
temple　came　the　sweet　sound　of　the　great　bronze　bell　and　the　beat
of　the　big　drum；　and　then；　more　faintly；　the　sound　of　the　little
bell　and　drum；　with　which　the　priest　accompanies　his　ceaseless
repetition　of　a　phrase　in　the　dead　tongue　of　a　distant　land。　　There
is　an　infinite　pathos　about　the　lonely　temple　in　its　splendour；　the
absence　of　even　possible　worshippers；　and　the　large　population　of
Ainos；　sunk　in　yet　deeper　superstitions　than　those　which　go　to　make
up　popular　Buddhism。　　I　sat　on　a　rock　by　the　bay　till　the　last　pink
glow　faded　from　Usu…taki　and　the　last　lemon　stain　from　the　still
water；　and　a　beautiful　crescent；　which　hung　over　the　wooded　hill；
had　set；　and　the　heavens　blazed　with　stars：


〃Ten　thousand　stars　were　in　the　sky；
Ten　thousand　in　the　sea；
And　every　wave　with　dimpled　face；
That　leapt　upon　the　air；
Had　caught　a　star　in　its　embrace；
And　held　it　trembling　there。〃


The　loneliness　of　Usu　Bay　is　something　wonderfula　house　full　of
empty　rooms　falling　to　decay；　with　only　two　men　in　itone　Japanese
house　among　500　savages；　yet　it　was　the　only　one　in　which　I　have
slept　in　which　they　bolted　neither　the　amado　nor　the　gate。　　During
the　night　the　amado　fell　out　of　the　worn…out　grooves　with　a　crash；
knocking　down　the　shoji；　which　fell　on　me；　and　rousing　Ito；　who
rushed　into　my　room　half…asleep；　with　a　vague　vision　of　blood…
thirsty　Ainos　in　his　mind。　　I　then　learned　what　I　have　been　very
stupid　not　to　have　learned　before；　that　in　these　sliding　wooden
shutters　there　is　a　small　door　through　which　one　person　can　creep
at　a　time　called　the　jishindo；　or　〃earthquake　door；〃　because　it
provides　an　exit　during　the　alarm　of　an　earthquake；　in　case　of