unbeaten tracks in japan-第6部分

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choose　to　pay　for　the　privilege　of　praying　in　comparative　privacy；
or　of　having　prayers　said　for　them　by　the　priests；　can　pass。

In　the　outer　temple　the　noise；　confusion；　and　perpetual　motion；　are
bewildering。　　Crowds　on　clattering　clogs　pass　in　and　out；　pigeons；
of　which　hundreds　live　in　the　porch；　fly　over　your　head；　and　the
whirring　of　their　wings　mingles　with　the　tinkling　of　bells；　the
beating　of　drums　and　gongs；　the　high…pitched　drone　of　the　priests；
the　low　murmur　of　prayers；　the　rippling　laughter　of　girls；　the
harsh　voices　of　men；　and　the　general　buzz　of　a　multitude。　　There　is
very　much　that　is　highly　grotesque　at　first　sight。　　Men　squat　on
the　floor　selling　amulets；　rosaries；　printed　prayers；　incense
sticks；　and　other　wares。　　Ex　votos　of　all　kinds　hang　on　the　wall
and　on　the　great　round　pillars。　　Many　of　these　are　rude　Japanese
pictures。　　The　subject　of　one　is　the　blowing…up　of　a　steamer　in　the
Sumidagawa　with　the　loss　of　100　lives；　when　the　donor　was　saved　by
the　grace　of　Kwan…non。　　Numbers　of　memorials　are　from　people　who
offered　up　prayers　here；　and　have　been　restored　to　health　or
wealth。　　Others　are　from　junk　men　whose　lives　have　been　in　peril。
There　are　scores　of　men's　queues　and　a　few　dusty　braids　of　women's
hair　offered　on　account　of　vows　or　prayers；　usually　for　sick
relatives；　and　among　them　all；　on　the　left　hand；　are　a　large　mirror
in　a　gaudily　gilt　frame　and　a　framed　picture　of　the　P。　M。　S。　China！
Above　this　incongruous　collection　are　splendid　wood　carvings　and
frescoes　of　angels；　among　which　the　pigeons　find　a　home　free　from
molestation。

Near　the　entrance　there　is　a　superb　incense…burner　in　the　most
massive　style　of　the　older　bronzes；　with　a　mythical　beast　rampant
upon　it；　and　in　high　relief　round　it　the　Japanese　signs　of　the
zodiacthe　rat；　ox；　tiger；　rabbit；　dragon；　serpent；　horse；　goat；
monkey；　cock；　dog；　and　hog。　　Clouds　of　incense　rise　continually
from　the　perforations　round　the　edge；　and　a　black…toothed　woman　who
keeps　it　burning　is　perpetually　receiving　small　coins　from　the
worshippers；　who　then　pass　on　to　the　front　of　the　altar　to　pray。
The　high　altar；　and　indeed　all　that　I　should　regard　as　properly　the
temple；　are　protected　by　a　screen　of　coarsely…netted　iron　wire。
This　holy　of　holies　is　full　of　shrines　and　gods；　gigantic
candlesticks；　colossal　lotuses　of　gilded　silver；　offerings；　lamps；
lacquer；　litany　books；　gongs；　drums；　bells；　and　all　the　mysterious
symbols　of　a　faith　which　is　a　system　of　morals　and　metaphysics　to
the　educated　and　initiated；　and　an　idolatrous　superstition　to　the
masses。　　In　this　interior　the　light　was　dim；　the　lamps　burned　low；
the　atmosphere　was　heavy　with　incense；　and　amidst　its　fumes　shaven
priests　in　chasubles　and　stoles　moved　noiselessly　over　the　soft
matting　round　the　high　altar　on　which　Kwan…non　is　enshrined；
lighting　candles；　striking　bells；　and　murmuring　prayers。　　In　front
of　the　screen　is　the　treasury；　a　wooden　chest　14　feet　by　10；　with　a
deep　slit；　into　which　all　the　worshippers　cast　copper　coins　with　a
ceaseless　clinking　sound。

There；　too；　they　pray；　if　that　can　be　called　prayer　which
frequently　consists　only　in　the　repetition　of　an　uncomprehended
phrase　in　a　foreign　tongue；　bowing　the　head；　raising　the　hands　and
rubbing　them；　murmuring　a　few　words；　telling　beads；　clapping　the
hands；　bowing　again；　and　then　passing　out　or　on　to　another　shrine
to　repeat　the　same　form。　　Merchants　in　silk　clothing；　soldiers　in
shabby　French　uniforms；　farmers；　coolies　in　〃vile　raiment；〃
mothers；　maidens；　swells　in　European　clothes；　even　the　samurai
policemen；　bow　before　the　goddess　of　mercy。　　Most　of　the　prayers
were　offered　rapidly；　a　mere　momentary　interlude　in　the　gurgle　of
careless　talk；　and　without　a　pretence　of　reverence；　but　some　of　the
petitioners　obviously　brought　real　woes　in　simple　〃faith。〃

In　one　shrine　there　is　a　large　idol；　spotted　all　over　with　pellets
of　paper；　and　hundreds　of　these　are　sticking　to　the　wire　netting
which　protects　him。　　A　worshipper　writes　his　petition　on　paper；　or；
better　still；　has　it　written　for　him　by　the　priest；　chews　it　to　a
pulp；　and　spits　it　at　the　divinity。　　If；　having　been　well　aimed；　it
passes　through　the　wire　and　sticks；　it　is　a　good　omen；　if　it　lodges
in　the　netting　the　prayer　has　probably　been　unheard。　　The　Ni…o　and
some　of　the　gods　outside　the　temple　are　similarly　disfigured。　　On
the　left　there　is　a　shrine　with　a　screen；　to　the　bars　of　which
innumerable　prayers　have　been　tied。　　On　the　right；　accessible　to
all；　sits　Binzuru；　one　of　Buddha's　original　sixteen　disciples。　　His
face　and　appearance　have　been　calm　and　amiable；　with　something　of
the　quiet　dignity　of　an　elderly　country　gentleman　of　the　reign　of
George　III。；　but　he　is　now　worn　and　defaced；　and　has　not　much　more
of　eyes；　nose；　and　mouth　than　the　Sphinx；　and　the　polished；　red
lacquer　has　disappeared　from　his　hands　and　feet；　for　Binzuru　is　a
great　medicine　god；　and　centuries　of　sick　people　have　rubbed　his
face　and　limbs；　and　then　have　rubbed　their　own。　　A　young　woman　went
up　to　him；　rubbed　the　back　of　his　neck；　and　then　rubbed　her　own。
Then　a　modest…looking　girl；　leading　an　ancient　woman　with　badly
inflamed　eyelids　and　paralysed　arms；　rubbed　his　eyelids；　and　then
gently　stroked　the　closed　eyelids　of　the　crone。　　Then　a　coolie；
with　a　swelled　knee；　applied　himself　vigorously　to　Binzuru's　knee；
and　more　gently　to　his　own。　　Remember；　this　is　the　great　temple　of
the　populace；　and　〃not　many　rich；　not　many　noble；　not　many　mighty；〃
enter　its　dim；　dirty；　crowded　halls。　｛5｝

But　the　great　temple　to　Kwan…non　is　not　the　only　sight　of　Asakusa。
Outside　it　are　countless　shrines　and　temples；　huge　stone　Amainu；　or
heavenly　dogs；　on　rude　blocks　of　stone；　large　cisterns　of　stone　and
bronze　with　and　without　canopies；　containing　water　for　the
ablutions　of　the　worshippers；　cast　iron　Amainu　on　hewn　stone
pedestalsa　recent　giftbronze　and　stone　lanterns；　a　stone
prayer…wheel　in　a　stone　post；　figures　of　Buddha　with　the　serene
countenance　of　one　who　rests　from　his　labours；　stone　idols；　on
which　devotees　have　pasted　slips　of　paper　inscribed　with　prayers；
with　sticks　of　incense　rising　out　of　the　ashes　of　hundreds　of
former　sticks　smouldering　before　them；　blocks　of　hewn　stone　with
Chinese　and　Sanskrit　inscriptions；　an　eight…sided　temple　in　which
are　figures　of　the　〃Five　Hundred　Disciples〃　of　Buddha；　a　temple
with　the　roof　and　upper　part　of　the　walls　richly　coloured；　the
circular　Shinto　mirror　in　an　inner　shrine；　a　bronze　treasury
outside　with　a　bell；　which　is　rung　to　attract　the　god's　attention；
a　striking；　five…storied　pagoda；　with　much　red　lacquer；　and　the
ends　of　the　roof…beams　very　boldly　carved；　its　heavy　eaves　fringed
with　wind　bells；　and　its　uppermost　roof　terminating　in　a　graceful
copper　spiral　of　great　height；　with　the　〃sacred　pearl〃　surrounded
by　flames　for　its　finial。　　Near　it；　as　near　most　temples；　is　an
upright　frame　of　plain　wood　with　tablets；　on　which　are　inscribed
the　names　of　donors　to　the　temple；　and　the　amount　of　their　gifts。

There　is　a　handsome　stone…floored　temple　to　the　south…east　of　the
main　building；　to　which　we　were　the　sole　visitors。　　It　is　lofty　and
very　richly　decorated。　　In　the　centre　is　an　octagonal　revolving
room；　or　rather　shrine；　of　rich　red　lacquer　most　gorgeously
ornamented。　　It　rests　on　a　frame　of　carved　black　lacquer；　and　has　a
lacquer　gallery　running　round　it；　on　which　several　richly　decorated
doors　open。　　On　the　application　of　several　shoulders　to　this
gallery　the　shrine　rotates。　　It　is；　in　fact；　a　revolving　library　of
the　Buddhist　Scriptures；　and　a　single　turn　is　equivalent　to　a
single　pious　perusal　of　them。　　It　is　an　exceedingly　beautiful
specimen　of　ancient　decorative　lacquer　work。　　At　the　back　part　of
the　temple　is　a　draped　brass　figure　of　Buddha；　with　one　hand
raiseda　dignified　piece　of　casting。　　All　the　Buddhas　have　Hindoo
features；　and　the　graceful　drapery　and　oriental　repose　which　have
been　imported　from　India　contrast　singularly　with　the　grotesque
extravagances　of　the　indigenous　Japanese　conceptions。　　In　the　same
temple　are　four　monstrously　extravagant　figures　carved　in　wood；
life…size；　with　clawed　toes　on　their　feet；　and　two　great　fangs　in
addition　to　the　teeth　in　each　mouth。　　The　heads　of　all　are
surrounded　with　flames；　and　are　backed　by　golden　circlets。　　They
are　extravagantly　clothed　in　garments　which　look　as　if　they　were
agitated　by　a　violent　wind；　they　wear　helmets　and　partial　suits　of
armour；　and　hold　in　their　right　hands　something　between　a　monarch's
sceptre　and　a　priest's　staff。　　They　have　goggle　eyes　and　open
mouths；　and　their　faces　are　in　distorted　and　exaggerated　action。
One；　painted　bright　red；　tramples　on　a　writhing　devil　painted
bright　pink；　another；　painted　emerald　green；　tramples　on　a　sea…
green　devil；　an　indigo　blue　monster　tramples　on　a　sky…blue　fiend；
and　a　bright　pink　monster　treads　under　his　clawed　feet　a　flesh…
coloured　demon。　　I　cannot　give　you　any　idea　of　the　hideousness　of
their　aspect；　and　was　much　inclined　to　sympathise　with　the　more
innocent…looking　fiends　whom　they　were　maltreating。　　They　occur
very　frequently　in　Buddhist　temples；　and　are　said　by　some　to　be
assistant…torturers　to　Yemma；　the　lord　of　hell；　and　are　called　by
others　〃The　gods　of　the　Four　Quarters。〃

The　temple　grounds　are　a　most　extraordinary　sight。　　No　English　fair
in　the　palmiest　days　of　fairs　ever　presented　such　an　array　of
attractions。　　Behind　the　temple　are　archery　galleries　in　numbers；
where　girls；　hardly　so　modest…looking　as　usual；　smile　and　smirk；
and　bring　straw…coloured　tea　in　dainty　cups；　and　tasteless
sweetmeats　on　lacquer　trays；　and　smoke　their　tiny　pipes；　and　offer
you　bows　of　slender　bamboo　strips；　two　feet　long；　with　rests　for
the　arrows；　and　tiny　cherry…wood　arrows；　bone…tipped；　and　feathered
red；　blue；　and　white；　and　smilingly；　but　quite　unobtrusively；　ask
you　to　try　your　skill　or　luck　at　a　target　hanging　in　front　of　a
square　drum；　flanked　by　red　cushions。　　A　click；　a　boom；　or　a　hardly
audible　〃thud；〃　indicate　the　result。　　Nearly　all　the　archers　were
grown…up　men；　and　many　of　them　spend　hours　at　a　time　in　this
childish　sport。

All　over　the　grounds　booths　with　the　usual　charcoal　fire；　copper
boiler；　iron　kettle