the complete writings-2-第21部分

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uys　that　have　come　down　from　the　Middle　Ages；　there　is　music　in　all　the　gardens；　singing　in　the　cafes；　beer　flowing　in　rivers；　and　a　mighty　smell　of　cheese；　that　goes　up　to　heaven。　　If　the　eating　of　cheese　were　a　religious　act；　and　its　odor　an　incense；　I　could　not　say　enough　of　the　devoutness　of　the　Bavarians。

Of　the　picturesqueness　and　oddity　of　the　Bavarian　peasants'　costumes；　nothing　but　a　picture　can　give　you　any　idea。　　You　can　imagine　the　men　in　tight　breeches；　buttoned　below　the　knee；　jackets　of　the　jockey　cut；　and　both　jacket　and　waistcoat　covered　with　big　metal　buttons；　sometimes　coins；　as　thickly　as　can　be　sewed　on：　but　the　women　defy　the　pen；　a　Bavarian　peasant　woman；　in　holiday　dress；　is　the　most　fearfully　and　wonderfully　made　object　in　the　universe。　　She　displays　a　good　length　of　striped　stockings；　and　wears　thin　slippers；　or　sandals；　her　skirts　are　like　a　hogshead　in　size　and　shape；　and　reach　so　near　her　shoulders　as　to　make　her　appear　hump…backed；　the　sleeves　are　hugely　swelled　out　at　the　shoulder；　and　taper　to　the　wrist；　the　bodice　is　a　stiff　and　most　elaborately　ornamented　piece　of　armor；　and　there　is　a　kind　of　breastplate；　or　center…piece；　of　gold；　silver；　and　precious　stones；　or　what　passes　for　them；　and　the　head　is　adorned　with　some　monstrous　heirloom；　of　finely　worked　gold　or　silver；　or　a　tower；　gilded　and　shining　with　long　streamers；　or　bound　in　a　simple　black　turban；　with　flowing　ends。　　Little　old　girls；　dressed　like　their　mothers；　have　the　air　of　creations　of　the　fancy；　who　have　walked　out　of　a　fairy…book。　　There　is　an　endless　variety　in　these　old　costumes；　and　one　sees；　every　moment；　one　more　preposterous　than　the　preceding。　　The　girls　from　the　Tyrol；　with　their　bright　neckerchiefs　and　pointed　black　felt　hats；　with　gold　cord　and　tassels；　are　some　of　them　very　pretty：　but　one　looks　a　long　time　for　a　bright　face　among　the　other　class；　and；　when　it　is　discovered；　the　owner　appears　like　a　maiden　who　was　enchanted　a　hundred　years　ago；　and　has　not　been　released　from　the　spell；　but　is　still　doomed　to　wear　the　garments　and　the　ornaments　that　should　long　ago　have　mouldered　away　with　her　ancestors。

The　Theresien　Wiese　was　a　city　of　Vanity　Fair　for　two　weeks；　every　day　crowded　with　a　motley　throng。　　Booths；　and　even　structures　of　some　solidity；　rose　on　it　as　if　by　magic。　　The　lottery…houses　were　set　up　early；　and；　to　the　last；　attracted　crowds；　who　could　not　resist　the　tempting　display　of　goods　and　trinkets；　which　might　be　won　by　investing　six　kreuzers　in　a　bit　of　paper；　which　might；　when　unrolled；　contain　a　number。　　These　lotteries　are　all　authorized：　some　of　them　were　for　the　benefit　of　the　agricultural　society；　some　were　for　the　poor；　and　others　on　individual　account：　and　they　always　thrive；　for　the　German；　above　all　others；　loves　to　try　his　luck。　There　were　streets　of　shanties；　where　various　things　were　offered　for　sale　besides　cheese　and　sausages。　　There　was　a　long　line　of　booths；　where　images　could　be　shot　at　with　bird…guns；　and　when　the　shots　were　successful；　the　images　went　through　astonishing　revolutions。　　There　was　a　circus；　in　front　of　which　some　of　the　spangled　performers　always　stood　beating　drums　and　posturing；　in　order　to　entice　in　spectators。　　There　were　the　puppet…booths；　before　which　all　day　stood　gaping；　delighted　crowds；　who　roared　with　laughter　whenever　the　little　frau　beat　her　loutish　husband　about　the　head；　and　set　him　to　tend　the　baby；　who　continued　to　wail；　notwithstanding　the　man　knocked　its　head　against　the　doorpost。　　There　were　the　great　beer…　restaurants；　with　temporary　benches　and　tables'　planted　about　with　evergreens；　always　thronged　with　a　noisy；　jolly　crowd。　　There　were　the　fires；　over　which　fresh　fish　were　broiling　on　sticks；　and；　if　you　lingered；　you　saw　the　fish　taken　alive　from　tubs　of　water　standing　by；　dressed　and　spitted　and　broiling　before　the　wiggle　was　out　of　their　tails。　　There　were　the　old　women；　who　mixed　the　flour　and　fried　the　brown　cakes　before　your　eyes；　or　cooked　the　fragrant　sausage；　and　offered　it　piping　hot。

And　every　restaurant　and　show　had　its　band；　brass　or　string；a　full　array　of　red…faced　fellows　tooting　through　horns；　or　a　sorry　quartette；　the　fat　woman　with　the　harp；　the　lean　man　blowing　himself　out　through　the　clarinet；　the　long…haired　fellow　with　the　flute；　and　the　robust　and　thick…necked　fiddler。　　Everywhere　there　was　music；　the　air　was　full　of　the　odor　of　cheese　and　cooking　sausage；　so　that　there　was　nothing　wanting　to　the　most　complete　enjoyment。　　The　crowd　surged　round；　jammed　together；　in　the　best　possible　humor。　　Those　who　could　not　sit　at　tables　sat　on　the　ground；　with　a　link　of　an　eatable　I　have　already　named　in　one　hand；　and　a　mug　of　beer　beside　them。　　Toward　evening；　the　ground　was　strewn　with　these　gray　quart　mugs；　which　gave　as　perfect　evidence　of　the　battle　of　the　day　as　the　cannon…balls　on　the　sand　before　Fort　Fisher　did　of　the　contest　there。　　Besides　this；　for　the　amusement　of　the　crowd；　there　is；　every　day；　a　wheelbarrow　race；　a　sack　race；　a　blindfold　contest；　or　something　of　the　sort；　which　turns　out　to　be　a　very　flat　performance。　　But　all　the　time　the　eating　and　the　drinking　go　on；　and　the　clatter　and　clink　of　it　fill　the　air；　so　that　the　great　object　of　the　fair　is　not　lost　sight　of。

Meantime；　where　is　the　agricultural　fair　and　cattle…show？　　You　must　know　that　we　do　these　things　differently　in　Bavaria。　　On　the　fair…ground；　there　is　very　little　to　be　seen　of　the　fair。　　There　is　an　inclosure　where　steam…engines　are　smoking　and　puffing；　and　threshing…machines　are　making　a　clamor；　where　some　big　church…bells　hang；　and　where　there　are　a　few　stalls　for　horses　and　cattle。　　But　the　competing　horses　and　cattle　are　led　before　the　judges　elsewhere；　the　horses；　for　instance；　by　the　royal　stables　in　the　city。　　I　saw　no　such　general　exhibition　of　do　mestic　animals　as　you　have　at　your　fairs。　　The　horses　that　took　the　prizes　were　of　native　stock；　a　very　serviceable　breed；　excellent　for　carriage…horses；　and　admirable　in　the　cavalry　service。　　The　bulls　and　cows　seemed　also　native　and　to　the　manor　born；　and　were　worthy　of　little　remark。　　The　mechanical；　vegetable；　and　fruit　exhibition　was　in　the　great　glass　palace；　in　the　city；　and　was　very　creditable　in　the　fruit　department；　in　the　show　of　grapes　and　pears　especially。　　The　products　of　the　dairy　were　less；　though　I　saw　one　that　I　do　not　recollect　ever　to　have　seen　in　America；　a　landscape　in　butter。　　Inclosed　in　a　case；　it　looked　very　much　like　a　wood…carving。　　There　was　a　Swiss　cottage；　a　milkmaid；　with　cows　in　the　foreground；　there　were　trees；　and　in　the　rear　rose　rocky　precipices；　with　chamois　in　the　act　of　skipping　thereon。　　I　should　think　something　might　be　done　in　our　country　in　this　line　of　the　fine　arts；　certainly；　some　of　the　butter　that　is　always　being　sold　so　cheap　at　St。　Albans；　when　it　is　high　everywhere　else；　must　be　strong　enough　to　warrant　the　attempt。　　As　to　the　other　departments　of　the　fine　arts　in　the　glass　palace；　I　cannot　give　you　a　better　idea　of　them　than　by　saying　that　they　were　as　well　filled　as　the　like　ones　in　the　American　county　fairs。　　There　were　machines　for　threshing；　for　straw…cutting；　for　apple…paring；　and　generally　such　a　display　of　implements　as　would　give　one　a　favorable　idea　of　Bavarian　agriculture。　　There　was　an　interesting　exhibition　of　live　fish；　great　and　small；　of　nearly　every　sort；　I　should　think；　in　Bavarian　waters。　The　show　in　the　fire…department　was　so　antiquated；　that　I　was　convinced　that　the　people　of　Munich　never　intend　to　have　any　fires。

The　great　day　of　the　fete　was　Sunday；　October　5　for　on　that　day　the　king　went　out　to　the　fair…ground；　and　distributed　the　prizes　to　the　owners　of　the　best　horses；　and；　as　they　appeared　to　me；　of　the　most　ugly…colored　bulls。　　The　city　was　literally　crowded　with　peasants　and　country　people；　the　churches　were　full　all　the　morning　with　devout　masses；　which　poured　into　the　waiting　beer…houses　afterward　with　equal　zeal。　　By　twelve　o'clock；　the　city　began　to　empty　itself　upon　the　Theresien　meadow；　and　long　before　the　time　for　the　king　to　arrive　two　o'clockthere　were　acres　of　people　waiting　for　the　performance　to　begin。　　The　terraced　bank；　of　which　I　have　spoken；　was　taken　possession　of　early；　and　held　by　a　solid　mass　of　people；　while　the　fair…ground　proper　was　packed　with　a　swaying　concourse；　densest　near　the　royal　pavilion；　which　was　erected　immediately　on　the　race…course；　and　opposite　the　bank。

At　one　o'clock　the　grand　stand　opposite　to　the　royal　one　is　taken　possession　of　by　a　regiment　band　and　by　invited　guests。　　All　the　space；　except　the　race…course；　is；　by　this　time；　packed　with　people；　who　watch　the　red　and　white　gate　at　the　head　of　the　course　with　growing　impatience。　　It　opens　to　let　in　a　regiment　of　infantry；　which　marches　in　and　takes　position。　　It　swings；　every　now　and　then；　for　a　solitary　horseman；　who　gallops　down　the　line　in　all　the　pride　of　mounted　civic　dignity；　to　the　disgust　of　the　crowd；　or　to　let　in　a　carriage；　with　some　overdressed　officer　or　splendid　minister；　who　is　entitled　to　a　place　in　the　royal　pavilion。　　It　is　a　people'　fete；　and　the　civic　officers　enjoy　one　day　of　conspicuous　glory。　　Now　a　majestic　person　in　gold　lace　is　set　down；　and　now　one　in　a　scarlet　coat；　as　beautiful　as　a　flamingo。　　These　driblets　of　splendor　only　feed　the　popular　impatience。　　Music　is　heard　in　the　distance；　and　a　procession　with　colored　banners　is　seen　approaching　from　the　city。　That；　like　everything　else　that　is　to　come；　stops　beyond　the　closed　gate；　and　there　it　halts；　ready　to　stream　down　before　our　eyes　in　a　variegated　pageant。　　The　time　goes　on；　the　crowd　gets　denser；　for　there　have　been　steady　rivers　of　people　pouring　into　the　grounds　for　more　than　an　hour。

The　military　bands　play　in　the　long　interval；　the　peasants　jabber　in　unintelligible　dialects；　the　high　functionaries　on　the　royal　stand　are　good　enough　to　move　around；　and　let　us　see　how　brave　and　majestic　they　are。

At　last　the　firing　of　cannon　announces　the　coming　of　royalty。　　There　is　a　commotion　in　the　vast　crowd　yonder；　the　eagerly　watched　gates　swing　wide；　and　a　well…mounted　company　of　cavalry　dashes　down　the　turf；　in　uniforms　of　light　blue　and　gold。　　It　is　a　citizens'　company　of　butchers　and　bakers　and　candlestick…makers；　which　would　do　no　discredit　to