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the golden chersonese and the way thither-第13部分

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and heathens alike; but ancestral worship; and the tyranny of the
astrologers and geomancers。

I like the faces of the lower orders of Chinese women。 They are both
strong and kind; and it is pleasant to see women not deformed in any
way; but clothed completely in a dress which allows perfect freedom of
action。 The small…footed women are rarely seen out of doors; but the
sewing…woman at Mrs。 Smith's has crippled feet; and I have got her
shoes; which are too small for the English baby of four months old! The
butler's little daughter; aged seven; is having her feet 〃bandaged〃 for
the first time; and is in torture; but bears it bravely in the hope of
〃getting a rich husband。〃 The sole of the shoe of a properly diminished
foot is about two inches and a half long; but the mother of this
suffering infant says; with a quiet air of truth and triumph; that
Chinese women suffer less in the process of being crippled than foreign
women do from wearing corsets!  To these Eastern women the notion of
deforming the figure for the sake of appearance only is unintelligible
and repulsive。 The crippling of the feet has another motive。

I。 L。 B。



LETTER IV (Continued)

Outside the Naam…Hoi PrisonThe Punishment of the CangueCrime and
MiseryA Birthday Banquet〃Prisoners and Captives〃Prison
MortalityCruelties and IniquitiesThe Porch of the MandarinThe
Judgment…SeatThe Precincts of the Judgment…SeatAn Aged
ClaimantInstruments of PunishmentThe Question by Torture


Yesterday; after visiting the streets devoted to jade…stone workers;
jewelers; saddlers; dealers in musical instruments; and furriers; we
turned aside from the street called Sze…P'aai…Lau; into a small; dirty
square; on one side of which is a brick wall; with a large composite
quadruped upon it in black paint; and on the other the open entrance
gate of the Yamun; or official residence of the mandarin whose
jurisdiction extends over about half Canton; and who is called the
Naam…Hoi magistrate。 Both sides of the road passing through this
square; and especially the open space in front of the gate which leads
into the courtyard of the Yamun; were crowded with unshaven; ragged;
forlorn; dirty wretches; heavily fettered round their ankles; and with
long heavy chains padlocked round their necks; attached; some to large
stones with holes in the centre; others to short thick bars of iron。
Two or three; into whose legs the ankle fetters had cut deep raw
grooves; were lying in a heap on a ragged mat in the corner; some were
sitting on stones; but most were standing or shifting their position
uneasily; dragging their weighty fetters about; making a jarring and
dismal clank with every movement。

These unfortunates are daily exposed thus to the scorn and contempt of
the passers…by as a punishment for small thefts。 Of those who were
seated on stones or who were kneeling attempting to support themselves
on their hands; most wore square wooden collars of considerable size;
weighing thirty pounds each; round their necks。 These cangues are so
constructed that it is impossible for their wearers to raise their
hands to their mouths for the purpose of feeding themselves; and it
seemed to be a choice pastime for small boys to tantalize these
criminals by placing food tied to the end of sticks just within reach
of their mouths; and then suddenly withdrawing them。 Apart from the
weight of their fetters; and of the cangue in which they are thus
pilloried; these men suffer much from hunger and thirst。 They are thus
punished for petty larcenies。 Surely 〃the way of transgressors is
hard。〃

The bearers set me down at the gate of the Yamun among the festering
wretches dragging the heavy weights; the filthy and noisy beggars; the
gamblers; the fortune…tellers; the messengers of justice; and the
countless hangers…on of the prison and judgment…seat of the Naam…Hoi
magistrate; and passing through a part of the courtyard; and down a
short; narrow passage; enclosed by a door of rough wooden uprights;
above which is a tiger's head; with staring eyes and extended jaws; we
reached the inner entrance; close to which is a much blackened altar of
incense foul with the ashes of innumerable joss…sticks; and above it an
equally blackened and much worn figure of a tiger in granite。 To this
beast; which is regarded by the Chinese as possessing virtue; and is
the tutelary guardian of Chinese prisons; the jailers offer incense and
worship night and day; with the object of securing its aid and
vigilance on their behalf。

Close to the altar were the jailers' rooms; dark; dirty; and
inconceivably forlorn。 Two of the jailers were lying on their beds
smoking opium。 There we met the head jailer; of all Chinamen that I
have seen the most repulsive in appearance; manner; and dress; for his
long costume of frayed and patched brown silk looked as if it had not
been taken off for a year; the lean; brown hands which clutched the
prison keys with an instinctive grip were dirty; and the nails long and
hooked like claws; and the face; worse; I thought; than that of any of
the criminal horde; and scored with lines of grip and greed; was
saturated with opium smoke。 This wretch pays for his place; and in a
few years will retire with a fortune; gains arising from bribes wrung
from prisoners and their friends by threats and torture; and by
defrauding them daily of a part of their allowance of rice。

The prison; as far as I can learn; consists mainly of six wards; each
with four large apartments; the walls of these wards abutting upon each
other; and forming a parallelogram; outside of which is a narrow; paved
pathway; on which the gates of the wards open; and which has on its
outer side the high boundary wall of the prison。 This jailer; this
fiendmade such by the customs of his countrytook us down a passage;
and unlocking a wooden grating turned us into one of the aforesaid
〃wards;〃 a roughly paved courtyard about fifty feet long by twenty…four
broad; and remained standing in the doorway jangling his keys。

If crime; vice; despair; suffering; filth and cruelty can make a hell
on earth; this is one。 Over its dismal gateway may well be written;
〃Whoso enters here leaves hope behind。〃

This ward is divided into four 〃apartments;〃 each one having a high
wall at the back。 The sides next the court are formed of a double row
of strong wooden bars; black from age and dirt; which reach from the
floor to the roof; and let in light and air through the chinks between
them。  The interiors of these cribs or cattle…pens are roughly paved
with slabs of granite; slimy with accumulations of dirt。 In the middle
and round the sides are stout platforms of laths; forming a coarse;
black gridiron; on which the prisoners sit and sleep。

In each ward there is a shrine of a deity who is supposed to have the
power of melting the wicked into contrition; and to this accursed
mockery; on his birthday; the prisoners are compelled to give a feast;
which is provided by the jailer out of his peculations from their daily
allowances。 No water is allowed for washing; and the tubs containing
the allowance of foul drinking water are placed close to those which
are provided for the accumulation of night soil; etc。; the contents of
which are only removed once a fortnight。 Two pounds of rice is the
daily allowance of each prisoner; but this is reduced to about one by
the greed of the jailer。

As we entered the yard; fifty or sixty men swarmed out from the dark
doorways which led into their dens; all heavily chained; with long;
coarse; matted hair hanging in wisps; or standing on end round their
death…like faces; in filthy rags; with emaciated forms caked with dirt;
and bearing marks of the torture; and nearly all with sore eyes;
swelled and bleeding lips; skin diseases; and putrefying sores。 These
surrounded us closely; and as; not without a shudder; I passed through
them and entered one of their dens; they pressed upon us; blocking out
the light; uttering discordant cries; and clamoring with one voice;
_kum…sha_; i。e。; backsheesh; looking more like demons than living men;
as abject and depraved as crime; despair; and cruelty can make them。

Within; the blackness; the filth; the vermin; the stench; overpowering
even in this cool weather; the rubbish of rags and potsherds; cannot be
described。 Here in semi…starvation and misery; with nameless cruelties
practised upon them without restraint; festering in one depraved mass;
are the tried and untried; the condemned; the guilty and innocent (?);
the murderer and pirate; the debtor and petty thief; all huddled
together; without hope of exit except to the adjacent judgment…seat;
with its horrors of 〃the question by torture;〃 or to the 〃field of
blood〃 not far away。 On earth can there be seen a spectacle more
hideous than these abject wretches; with their heavy fetters eating
into the flesh of their necks and ankles (if on their wasted skeletons;
covered with vermin and running sores; there is any flesh left); their
thick matted; bristly; black haircontrasting with the shaven heads
of the freethe long; broken claws on their fingers and toes; the
hungry look in their emaciated faces; and their clamorous cry;
_kum…sha!  kum…sha!_ They thronged round us clattering their chains;
one man saying that they had so little rice that they had to 〃drink the
foul water to fill themselves;〃 another shrieked; 〃Would I were in your
prison in Hong Kong;〃 and this was chorused by many voices saying; 〃In
your prison at Hong Kong they have fish and vegetables; and more rice
than they can eat; and baths; and beds to sleep on; good; good is the
prison of your Queen!〃 but higher swelled the cry of _kum…sha_; and as
we could not give alms among several hundred; we eluded them; though
with difficulty; and; as we squeezed through the narrow door;
execrations followed us; and high above the heavy clank of the fetters
and the general din rose the cry; 〃Foreign Devils〃 (Fan…Kwai); as we
passed out into sunshine and liberty; and the key was turned upon them
and their misery。

We went into three other large wards; foul with horror; and seething
with misery; and into a smaller one; nearly as bad; where fifteen women
were incarcerated; so

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