the golden chersonese and the way thither-第16部分
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which they are eventually buried in a cemetery outside one of the city
gates； called 〃The trench for the bones of ten thousand men。〃 It is not
an uncommon thing； under ordinary circumstances； for fifteen； twenty；
or thirty…five wretches to suffer the penalty of death in this spot；
and this number swells to very large dimensions at a jail delivery； or
during a rebellion； or when the crews of pirates are captured in the
act of piracy。 My friend Mr。 Bulkeley Johnson； of Shanghai； saw one
hundred heads fall in one morning。
Mr。 Henry says that the reason that most of the criminals meet death
with such stoicism or indifference is； that they have been worn down
previously by starvation and torture。 Some are stupefied with Saam…su。
It is possible in some cases for a criminal who is fortunate enough to
have rich relations to procure a substitute； a coolie sells himself to
death in such a man's stead for a hundred dollars； and for a week
before his surrender indulges in every kind of expensive debauchery；
and when the day of doom arrives is so completely stupefied by wine and
opium； as to know nothing of the terror of death。
We had not gone far into this aceldema when we came to a space cleared
from pots； and to a great pool of blood and dust mingled； blackening in
the sun； then another and another； till there were five of them almost
close together； with splashes of blood upon the adjacent pots； and
blood trodden into the thirsty ground。 Against the wall opposite； a
rudely constructed cross was resting； dark here and there with patches
of blood。 Among the rubbish at the base of the wall there were some
human fragments partly covered with matting； a little farther some
jaw…bones with the teeth in them； then four more crosses； and some
human heads lying at the foot of the wall； from which it was evident
that dogs had partially gnawed off the matting in which they had been
tied up。 The dead stare of one human eye amidst the heap haunts me
still。 A blood…splashed wooden ticket； with a human name on one side
and that of the Naam…Hoi prison on the other； was lying near one of the
pools of blood； and I picked it up as a memento； as the stroke which
had severed its string had also severed at the same time the culprit's
neck。 The place was ghastly and smelt of blood。
The strangest and most thrilling sight of all was the cross in this
unholy spot； not a symbol of victory and hope； but of the lowest infamy
and degradation； of the vilest death which the vilest men can die。 Nor
was it the solid； lofty structure； fifteen or twenty feet high； which
art has been glorifying for a thousand years； but a rude gibbet of
unplaned wood； roughly nailed together； barely eight feet high； and not
too heavy for a strong man to carry on his shoulders。 Most likely it
was such a cross； elevated but little above the heads of the howling
mob of Jerusalem； which Paul had in view when he wrote of Him who hung
upon it； 〃But made Himself obedient unto death； _even the death of the
cross_。〃 To these gibbets infamous criminals； whose crimes are regarded
as deserving of a lingering death； are tightly bound with cords； and
are then slowly hacked to pieces with sharp knives； unless the friends
of the culprit are rich enough to bribe the executioner to terminate
the death agony early by stabbing a vital part。
These facts do not require to be dressed out with words。 They are most
effective when most baldly stated。 I left the execution ground as I
left the prisonwith the prayer； which has gained a new significance；
〃For all prisoners and captives we beseech Thee to hear us； good Lord；〃
but though our hands are nationally clean now as regards the
administration of justice and the treatment of criminals； we need not
hold them up in holy horror as if the Chinese were guilty above all
other men； for the framers of the Litany were familiar with dungeons
perhaps worse than the prison of the Naam…Hoi magistrate； and with
forms of torture which spared not even women； and the judges' and
jailers' palms were intimate with the gold of accused persons。 It is
simply that heathenism in Canton is practising at this day what
Christianity in Europe looked upon with indifference for centuries。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER V
Portuguese MissionariesA Chinese HospitalChinese
AnaestheticsSurgery and MedicineVentilation and CleanlinessA
Chinese 〃Afternoon Tea〃A New Inspiration
HONG KONG； January 10。
The year seems already getting old and frowzy。 Under these blue skies；
and with all the doors and windows open； I should think it midsummer if
I did not look at the calendar。 Oh； how I like blue； sunny skies；
instead of gray and grim ones； and blazing colors instead of the dismal
grays and browns of our nondescript winters！
I left Canton by the Kin…Kiang on Monday； with two thousand Chinese
passengers and two Portuguese missionary priests； the latter wearing
Chinese costume； and so completely got up as Chinamen that had they not
spoken Portuguese their features would not have been sufficient to
undeceive me。 They were noble…looking men； and bore upon their faces
the stamp of consecration to a noble work。 On the other steamer； the
Tchang； instead of a man with revolvers and a cutlass keeping guard
over the steerage grating； a large hose pipe is laid on to each
hatch…way； through which； in case of need； boiling water can be sent
under strong pressure。 Just as we landed here； about five hundred large
fishes were passed through a circular net from a well in the steamer
into a well in a fishing boat； to which all the fishmongers in Hong
Kong immediately resorted。
（I pass over the hospitalities and festivities of Hong Kong； and an
afternoon with the Governor in the Victoria Prison； to an interesting
visit paid with Mr。； now Sir J。 Pope Hennessey to the Chinese
Hospital。）
We started from Government House； with the Governor； in a chair with
six scarlet bearers； attended by some Sikh orderlies in scarlet
turbans； for a 〃State Visit〃 to the Tung…Wah Hospital； a purely Chinese
institution； built some years ago by Chinese merchants； and supported
by them at an annual cost of 16；000。 In it nothing European； either in
the way of drugs or treatment； is tried。 There is a dispensary
connected with it； where advice is daily given to about a hundred and
twenty people； and； though lunacy is rare in China； they are building a
lunatic asylum at the back of the hospital。
The Tung…Wah hospital consists of several two…storied buildings of
granite； with large windows on each side； and a lofty central building
which contains the directors' hall； the accommodation for six resident
physicians； and the business offices。 The whole is surrounded by a
well…kept garden； bounded by a very high wall。 We entered by the grand
entrance； which has a flagged pavement； each flag consisting of a slab
of granite twelve feet long by three broad； and were received at the
foot of the grand staircase by the directors and their chairman； the
six resident doctors； and Mr。 Ng Choy； a rising； Chinese barrister；
educated at Lincoln's Inn； who interpreted for us in admirable English。
He is the man who goes between the Governor and the Chinese community；
and is believed to have more influence with the Governor on all
questions which concern Chinamen than anybody else。 These gentlemen all
wore rich and beautiful dresses of thick ribbed silk and figured
brocade； and； unless they were much padded and wadded； they had all
attained to a remarkable embonpoint。
The hall in which the directors meet is lofty and very handsome； the
roof being supported on massive pillars。 One side is open to the
garden。 It has a superb ebony table in the middle； with a chair massive
enough for a throne for the chairman； and six grand； carved ebony
chairs on either side。
Our procession consisted of the chairman and the twelve directors； the
six stout middle…aged doctors； Mr。 Ng Choy； the Governor； the Bishop of
Victoria； and myself； but the patients regarded the unwonted spectacle
with extreme apathy。
The wards hold twenty each； and are divided into wooden stalls； each
stall containing two beds。 Partitions seven feet high run down the
centre。 The beds are matted wooden platforms； and the bedding white
futons or wadded quilts； which are washed once a week。 The pillows are
of wood or bamboo。 Each bed has a shelf above it； with a teapot upon it
in a thickly wadded basket； which keeps the contents hot all day； the
infusion being； of course； poured off the leaves。 A ticket； with the
patient's name upon it； and the hours at which he is to take his
medicine； hangs above each person。
No amputations are performed； but there are a good many other
operations； such as the removal of cancers； tumors； etc。 The doctors
were quite willing to answer questions； within certain limits； but when
I asked them about the composition and properties of their drugs they
became reticent at once and said that they were secrets。 They do not
use chloroform in operations； but they all asserted； and their
assertions were corroborated by Mr。 Ng Choy； that they possess drugs
which throw their patients into a profound sleep； during which the most
severe operations can be painlessly performed。 They asserted further
that such patients awake an hour or two afterward quite cheerful； and
with neither headache nor vomiting！ One of them showed me a bottle
containing a dark brown powder which； he said； produced this result；
but he would not divulge the name of one of its constituents； saying
that it is a secret taught him by his tutor； and that there are several
formulas。 It has a pungent and slightly aromatic taste。
The surgery and medicine are totally uninfluenced by European science；
and are of the most antiquated and barbaric description。 There was a
woman who had had a cancer removed； and the awful wound； which was
uncovered for my inspection； was dressed with musk； lard； and
ambergris； with a piece of oiled paper over all。 There was also
exhibited to us a foot which had been pierced by a bamboo splinter。
Violent inflammation had extended up to the knee； and the wound； and
the swollen； blackened limb were being treated with musk and tiger's
fat。 A man wit
