the golden chersonese and the way thither-第2部分
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immigrants； it is estimated at three hundred and ten thousand； which
gives under nine inhabitants to the square mile； the population of the
British settlements being about four hundred and twenty to the square
mile。
The total length of the Peninsula is eight hundred miles； and its
breadth varies from sixty to one hundred and fifty miles。 It runs down
from lat。 13 degrees 50' N。 to 1 degree 41' N。 The northern part；
forming the Isthmus of Kraw； which it is proposed to pierce for a ship
canal； runs nearly due north and south for one hundred and forty miles；
and is inhabited by a mixed race； mainly Siamese； called by the Malays
Sansam。 This Isthmus is under the rule of Siam； which is its northern
boundary； and the northern and eastern States of Kedah； Patani；
Kelantan； Pahang； and Tringganu； are more or less tributary to this
ambitious empire； which at intervals has exacted a golden rose； the
token of vassalage； from every State in the Peninsula。 Except at the
point where the Isthmus of Kraw joins Siam； the Peninsula is surrounded
by the sea to the east by the China Sea and the Gulf of Siam； and to
the south and west by the Straits of Malacca and the Bay of Bengal。 The
area of the mainland is conjectured to be the same as that of Britain；
but the region occupied by the Malays does not exceed sixty…one
thousand one hundred and fifty square miles； and is about half the size
of Java。
Its configuration is not very well known； but a granitic mountain
chain； rising in Perak to ascertained heights of eight thousand feet；
runs down its whole length near the centre； with extensive outlying
spurs； and alluvial plains on both sides densely covered with jungle；
as are also the mountains。 There are no traces of volcanic formation；
though thermal springs exist in Malacca。 The rivers are numerous； but
with one exception small； and are seldom navigable beyond the reach of
the tides； except by flat…bottomed boats。 It is believed that there are
scarcely any lakes。
The general formation is granitic； overlaid by sandstone； laterite or
clay ironstone； and to the north by limestone。 Iron ores are found
everywhere； and are so little regarded for their metallic contents
that； though containing； according to Mr。 Logan； a skillful geologist；
sixty percent of pure metal； they are used in Singapore for
macadamizing the roads！ Gold has been obtained in all ages； and
formerly in considerable quantities； but the annual yield does not now
exceed nineteen thousand ounces。 The vastest tin fields in the world
are found in the western Malay States； and hitherto the produce has
been 〃stream tin〃 only； the metal not having been traced to its veins
in the rock。
The map； the result of recent surveys by Mr。 Daly； and published in
1882 by the Royal Geographical Society； shows that there is a vast
extent； more than half of the Malay Peninsula； unexplored。 Its most
laborious explorer confesses that 〃of the internal government；
geography； mineral products； and geology of these regions； we do not
know anything；〃 and； he adds； that 〃even in this nineteenth century； a
country rich in its resources； and important through its contiguity to
our British possessions； is still a closed volume。〃 〃If we let the
needle in； the thread is sure to follow〃 （meaning that if they let an
Englishman pass through their territories； British annexation would be
the natural sequence）； was the reason given to Mr。 Daly for turning him
back from the States of the Negri Sembilan。
The climate is singularly healthy for Europeans as well as natives；
although both hot and moist； as may be expected from being so close to
the equator。 Besides； the Peninsula is very nearly an insular region；
it is densely covered with evergreen forests； and few parts of it are
more than fifty miles from the sea。 There are no diseases of climate
except marsh fevers； which assail Europeans if they camp out at night
on low； swampy grounds。
In 5 degrees 15' N。； about the latitude of the northern boundary of
Perak； at the sea…level the mean annual temperature is nearly 80
degrees； with a range of 20 degrees； at Malacca in 2 degrees 14' N。 it
is 80 degrees； with a range of 15 degrees； and at Singapore； in lat。 1
degree 17'； it is 82 degrees； with a range of 24 degrees。 Though the
climate is undeniably a 〃hot〃 one； the heat； tempered by alternating
land and sea breezes； is seldom oppressive except just before rain； and
the thermometer never attains anything approaching those torrid
temperatures which are registered in India； Japan； the United States；
and other parts of the temperate zones。
The rainfall is not excessive； averaging about one hundred and ten
inches annually； and there is no regular rainy season。 In fact it rains
in moderation all the year round。 Three days seldom pass without
refreshing showers； and if there are ten rainless days together； a rare
phenomenon； people begin to talk of 〃the drought。〃 Practically the year
is divided into two parts by the 〃monsoons。〃* The monsoon is not a
storm； as many people suppose； from a vague association of the word
〃typhoon；〃 but a steady wind blowing； in the case of the Malay
Peninsula； for six months from the north…east； bringing down the
Chinamen in their junks； and for six months from the southwest；
bringing traders from Arabia and India。 The climate is the pleasantest
during the north…east monsoon； which lasts from October to April。 It is
during the south…west monsoon that the heavier rains； accompanied by
electrical disturbances； occur。 The central mountain range protects the
Peninsula alternately from both monsoons； the high Sumatran mountains
protecting its west side from the south…west winds。 The east side is
exposed for six months to a modified north…east monsoon。 Everywhere
else throughout the almost changeless year； steadily alternating land
and sea breezes with gentle variable winds and calms prevail；
interrupted occasionally on the west coast during the 〃summer〃 by
squalls from the south…west； which last for one or two hours； and are
known as 〃Sumatrans。〃 Hurricanes and earthquakes are unknown。 Drenching
dews fall on clear nights。
＇*This word is recognized as a corruption by Portuguese and British
tongues of the Arabic word 〃musim；〃 〃season。〃＇
The Peninsula is a gorgeous tropic land； and； with its bounteous
rainfall and sunshine； brings forth many of the most highly prized
productions of the tropics； with some that are peculiar to itself。 Its
botany is as yet very imperfectly known。 Some of its forest trees are
very valuable as timber； and others produce hard…veined woods which
take a high polish。 Rattans； Malacca canes； and gutta are well known as
among its forest products； gutta； with its extensive economical uses；
having been used only for Malay horsewhips and knife…handles previous
to 1843。 The wild nutmeg is indigenous； and the nutmeg of commerce and
the clove have been introduced and thrive。 Pepper and some other spices
flourish； and the soil with but a little cultivation produces rice wet
and dry； tapioca； gambier； sugar…cane； coffee； yams； sweet potatoes；
cocoa； sago； cotton； tea； cinchona； india rubber； and indigo。 Still it
is doubtful whether a soil can be called fertile which is incapable of
producing the best kinds of cereals。 European vegetables are on the
whole a dismal failure。 Conservatism in diet must be given up by
Europeans； the yam； edible arum； and sweet potato must take the place
of the 〃Irish potato；〃 and water…melons and cucumbers that of our peas；
beans； artichokes； cabbages； and broccoli。 The Chinese raise coarse
radishes and lettuce； and possibly the higher grounds may some day be
turned into market gardens。 The fruits； however； are innumerable； as
well as wholesome and delicious。 Among them the durion is the most
esteemed by the natives； and the mangosteen by Europeans。
The fauna of the Peninsula is most remarkable and abundant； indeed；
much of its forest…covered interior is inhabited by wild beasts alone；
and gigantic pachyderms； looking like monsters of an earlier age； roam
unmolested over vast tracts of country。 Among this thick…skinned family
are the elephant； the one…horned rhinoceros； the Malayan tapir； and the
wild hog； the last held in abomination by the Malays； but constituting
the chief animal food of some of the wild tribes。
A small bear with a wistful face represents the Plantigrade family。 The
Quadrumana are very numerous。 There are nine monkeys； one； if not two
apes； and a lemur or sloth； which screens its eyes from the light。
Of the Digitigrada there are the otter or water…dog； the musang and
climbing musang； the civet cat； the royal tiger； the spotted black
tiger； in whose glossy raven…black coat the characteristic markings are
seen in certain lights； the tiger cat； the leopard； the Java cat； and
four or five others。 Many of these feline animals abound。
Among the ruminants are four species of deer； two smaller than a hare；
and one as large as an elk； a wild goat similar to the Sumatran
antelope； the domestic goat； a mean little beast； the buffalo； a great；
nearly hairless； gray or pink beast； bigger than the buffalo of China
and India； a short…legged domestic ox； and two wild oxen or bisons；
which are rare。
The bat family is not numerous。 The vampire flies high； in great
flocks； and is very destructive to fruit。 This frugiverous bat； known
popularly as the 〃flying fox；〃 is a very interesting…looking animal；
and is actually eaten by the people of Ternate。 At the height of the
fruit season； thousands of these creatures cross from Sumatra to the
mainland； a distance never less than forty miles。 Their strength of
wing is enormous。 I saw one captured in the steamer Nevada； forty…five
miles from the Navigators； with wings measuring； when extended； nearly
five feet across。 These are formed of a jet black membrane； and have a
highly polished claw at the extremity of each。 The feet consist of five
polished black claws； with which the bat hangs on； head downward； to
the forest trees。 His body is about twice the size of that of a very
large rat； black and furry underneath； and with red foxy fur on the
head and neck。 He has a pointed face； a very black nose； and prominent
