the golden chersonese and the way thither-第20部分
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whole of the colony by dysentery； which among Europeans is particularly
fatal。 The mean temperature is 83 degrees F。； the dampness is unusual；
and the nights are too hot to refresh people after the heat of the
day。*
＇*The chief production of the country is rice； which forms half the sum
total of the exports。 The other exports are chiefly salt…fish； salt；
undyed cotton； skins of beasts； and pepper。 About seven hundred vessels
enter and leave Saigon in a year。＇
After leaving the convent I resumed my gharrie； and the driver took me；
what I suppose is the usual 〃course〃 for tourists； through a quaint
Asiatic town inhabited by a mixed； foreign population of Hindus；
Malays； Tagals； and Chinese merchants； scattered among a large
indigenous population of Anamese fishermen； servants； and husbandmen；
through the colonial district； which looked asleep or dead； to the
markets； where the Chinamen and natives of India were in the full swing
and din of buying and selling all sorts of tropical fruits and rubbishy
French goods； and through what may be called the Government town or
official quarter。 It was getting dark when I reached the wharf； and the
darkness enabled me to hobble unperceived on board on my bandaged feet。
The heat of the murky； lurid evening was awful； and as thousands of
mosquitoes took possession of the ship； all comfort was banished； and I
was glad when we steamed down the palm…fringed Saigon or Donnai waters；
and through the mangrove swamps at the mouths of the Me…kong river； and
past the lofty Cape St。 Jacques； with its fort； into the open China
Sea。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER VII
Beauties of the TropicsSingapore HospitalityAn Equatorial
MetropolisAn Aimless ExistenceThe Growth of Singapore〃Farms〃 and
〃Farmers〃The Staple of ConversationThe Glitter of 〃Barbaric
Gold〃A Polyglot PopulationA Mediocre PeopleFemale Grace and
BeautyThe 〃Asian Mystery〃Oriental PicturesquenessThe
Metamorphosis of Singapore
SINGAPORE； January 19； 1879。
It is hotso hot！but not stifling； and all the rich…flavored；
colored fruits of the tropics are herefruits whose generous juices
are drawn from the moist and heated earth； and whose flavors are the
imprisoned rays of the fierce sun of the tropics。 Such cartloads and
piles of bananas and pine…apples； such heaps of custard…apples and
〃bullocks' hearts；〃 such a wealth of gold and green giving off
fragrance！ Here； too； are treasures of the heated； crystal seasthings
that one has dreamed of after reading Jules Verne's romances。 Big
canoes； manned by dark…skinned men in white turbans and loin…cloths；
floated round our ship； or lay poised on the clear depths of aquamarine
water； with fairy freightsforests of coral white as snow； or red；
pink； violet； in massive branches or fern…like sprays； fresh from their
warm homes beneath the clear warm waves； where fish as bright…tinted as
themselves flash through them like 〃living light。〃 There were displays
of wonderful shells； too； of pale rose…pink； and others with rainbow
tints which； like rainbows； came and wentnothing scanty； feeble； or
pale！
It is a drive of two miles from the pier to Singapore； and to eyes
which have only seen the yellow skins and non…vividness of the Far
East； a world of wonders opens at every step。 It is intensely tropical；
there are mangrove swamps； and fringes of cocoa…palms； and
banana…groves； date； sago； and travelers' palms； tree…ferns；
india…rubber； mango； custard…apple； jack…fruit； durion； lime；
pomegranate； pine…apples； and orchids； and all kinds of strangling and
parrot…blossomed trailers。 Vegetation rich； profuse； endless； rapid；
smothering； in all shades of vivid green； from the pea…green of spring
and the dark velvety green of endless summer to the yellow…green of the
plumage of the palm； riots in a heavy shower every night and the heat
of a perennial sun…blaze every day； while monkeys of various kinds and
bright…winged birds skip and flit through the jungle shades。 There is a
perpetual battle between man and the jungle； and the latter； in fact；
is only brought to bay within a short distance of Singapore。
I had scarcely finished breakfast at the hotel； a shady； straggling
building； much infested by ants； when Mr。 Cecil Smith； the Colonial
Secretary； and his wife called； full of kind thoughts and plans of
furtherance； and a little later a resident； to whom I had not even a
letter of introduction； took me and my luggage to his bungalow。 All the
European houses seem to have very deep verandas； large； lofty rooms；
punkahs everywhere； windows without glass； brick floors； and jalousies
and 〃tatties〃 （blinds made of grass or finely…split bamboo） to keep out
the light and the flies。 This equatorial heat is neither as exhausting
or depressing as the damp summer heat of Japan； though one does long
〃to take off one's flesh and sit in one's bones。〃
I wonder how this unexpected and hastily planned expedition into the
Malay States will turn out？ It is so unlikely that the different
arrangements will fit in。 It seemed an event in the dim future； but
yesterday my host sent up a 〃chit〃 from his office to say that a
Chinese steamer is to sail for Malacca in a day or two； and would I
like to go？ I was only allowed five minutes for decision； but I have no
difficulty in making up my mind when an escape from civilization is
possible。 So I wrote back that if I could get my money and letters of
introduction in time I would go； and returned to dine at Mr。 Cecil
Smith's； where a delightfully cultured and intellectual atmosphere made
civilization more than tolerable。 The needed letters were written；
various hints for my guidance were thrown out； and I drove back at
half…past ten under heavens which were one blaze of stars amidst a dust
of nebulae； like the inlaid gold spots amidst a dust of gold on old
Japanese lacquer； and through a moist； warm atmosphere laden with the
heavy fragrance of innumerable night…blossoming flowers。
Singapore； as the capital of the Straits Settlements and the residence
of the Governor； has a garrison； defensive works； ships of war hanging
about； and a great deal of military as well as commercial importance；
and 〃the roll of the British drum〃 is a reassuring sound in the midst
of the unquiet Chinese population。 The Governor is assisted by
lieutenant…governors at Malacca and Pinang； and his actual rule extends
to the three 〃protected〃 States of the Malay PeninsulaSungei Ujong；
Selangor； and Perakthe affairs of which are administered by British
Residents； who are more or less responsible to him。
If I fail in making you realize Singapore it is partly because I do not
care to go into much detail about so well known a city； and partly
because my own notions of it are mainly of overpowering greenery； a
kaleidoscopic arrangement of colors； Chinese predominance； and
abounding hospitality。 I almost fail to realize that it is an island；
one of many； all； like itself； covered with vegetation down to the
water's edge； about twenty…seven miles long by fourteen broad； with the
city at its southern end。 It is only seventy miles from the equator；
but it is neither unhealthy nor overpoweringly hot！ It is low and
undulating； its highest point； Bukit Timor； or the Hill of Tin； being
only five hundred and twenty feet high。 The greatest curse here used to
be tigers； which carried off about three hundred people yearly。 They
were supposed to have been extirpated； but they have reappeared；
swimming across from the mainland State of Johore it is conjectured；
and as various lonely Chinese laborers have been victimized； there is
something of a 〃scare；〃 in the papers at least。 Turtles are so abundant
that turtle…soup is anything but a luxury； and turtle flesh is
ordinarily sold in the meat shops。
Rain is officially said to fall on two hundred days of the year； but
popularly every day！ The rainfall is only eighty…seven inches；
however； and the glorious vegetation owes its redundancy to the
dampness of the climate。 Of course Singapore has no seasons。 The
variety is only in the intensity of the heat； the mercury being
tolerably steady between 80 degrees and 84 degrees； the extreme range
of temperature being from 71 degrees to 92 degrees。 People sleep on
Malay mats spread over their mattresses for coolness； some dispense
with upper sheets； and others are fanned all night by punkahs。 The soft
and tepid land and sea breezes mitigate the heat to a slight extent；
but I should soon long for a blustering north…easter to break in upon
the oppressive and vapor…bath stillness。
As Singapore is a military station； and ships of war hang about
constantly； there is a great deal of fluctuating society； and the
officials of the Straits Settlements Government are numerous enough to
form a large society of their own。 Then there is the merchant class；
English； German； French； and American； and there is the usual round of
gayety； and of the amusements which make life intolerable。 I think that
in most of these tropical colonies the ladies exist only on the hope of
going 〃home！〃 It is a dreary； aimless life for themscarcely life；
only existence。 The greatest sign of vitality in Singapore Europeans
that I can see is the furious hurry in writing for the mail。 To all
sorts of claims and invitations； the reply is； 〃But it's mail day； you
know；〃 or； 〃I'm writing for the mail；〃 or； 〃I'm awfully behind hand
with my letters；〃 or； 〃I can't stir till the mail's gone！〃 The hurry is
desperate； and even the feeble Englishwomen exert themselves for
〃friends at home。〃 To judge from the flurry and excitement； and the
driving down to the post…office at the last moment； and the commotion
in the parboiled community； one would suppose the mail to be an
uncertain event occurring once in a year or two； rather than the most
regular of weekly fixtures！ The incoming mail is also a great event；
though its public and commercial news is anticipated by four weeks by
the telegraph。
The Americans boast of the rapid progress of San Francisco； with which
the Victorians boast that Melbourne is running a neck and neck race；
but； if boasting is allowable； Singapore may boast； for in 1818 the
island was covered with dense primeval forest； and only a few miser
