the golden chersonese and the way thither-第26部分

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


of　enormous　size；　and　often　of　exquisite　workmanship；　in　the　poorer
class　of　silver；　and　in　the　richer　of　gold　jeweled　with　diamonds　and
rubies。　The　sarong　of　the　men　does　not　reach　much　below　the　knee　and
displays　loose　trousers。　They　wear　above　it　a　short…sleeved　jacket；　the
baju；　beautifully　made；　and　often　very　tastefully　decorated　in　fine
needlework；　and　with　small　buttons　on　each　side；　not　for　use；　however。
I　have　seen　one　Malay　who　wore　about　twenty　buttons；　each　one　a　diamond
solitaire！　The　costume　is　completed　by　turbans　or　red　handkerchiefs
tied　round　their　heads。

In　these　forest　kampongs　the　children；　who　are　very　pretty；　are　not
encumbered　by　much　clothing；　specially　the　boys。　　All　the　dwellings　are
picturesque；　and　those　of　the　richer　Malays　are　beautiful。　They　rigidly
exclude　all　ornaments　which　have　〃the　likeness　of　anything　in　heaven　or
earth；〃　but　their　arabesques　are　delicately　carved；　and　the　verses　from
the　Koran；　which　occasionally　run　under　the　eaves；　being　in　the　Arabic
character；　are　decidedly　decorative。　　Their　kampongs　are　small；　and
they　have　little　of　the　gregarious　instinct；　they　are　said　to　live
happily；　and　to　have　a　considerable　amount　of　domestic　affection。
Captain　Shaw　likes　the　Malays；　and　the　verdict　on　them　here　is　that
they　are　chaste；　gentle；　honest　and　hospitable；　but　that　they　tell
lies；　and　that　their　〃honor〃　is　so　sensitive　that　blood　alone　can　wipe
out　some　insults　to　it。　They　seclude　their　women　to　a　great　extent；　and
under　ordinary　circumstances　the　slightest　courtesy　shown　by　a　European
man　to　a　Malay　woman　would　be　a　deadly　insult；　and　at　the　sight　of　a
man　in　the　distance　the　women　hastily　cover　their　faces。

There　is　a　large　mosque　with　a　minaret　just　on　the　outskirts　of
Malacca；　and　we　passed　several　smaller　ones　in　the　space　of　three
miles。　Scarcely　any　kampong　is　so　small　as　not　to　have　a　mosque。　The
Malays　are　bigoted；　and　for　the　most　part　ignorant　and　fanatical
Mohammedans；　and　I　firmly　believe　that　the　Englishman　whom　they　respect
most　is　only　a　little　removed　from　being　〃a　dog　of　an　infidel。〃　They
are　really　ruled　by　the　law　of　the　Koran；　and　except　when　the　Imaum；
who　interprets　the　law；　decides　（which　is　very　rarely　the　case）
contrary　to　equity；　the　British　magistrate　confirms　his　decision。　In
fact；　Mohammedan　law　and　custom　rule　in　civil　cases；　and　the　Imaum　of
the　mosque　assists　the　judge　with　his　advice。　The　Malays　highly
appreciate　the　manner　in　which　law　is　administered　under　English　rule；
and　the　security　they　enjoy　in　their　persons　and　property；　so　that　they
can　acquire　property　without　risk；　and　accumulate　and　wear　the
costliest　jewels　even　in　the　streets　of　Malacca　without　fear　of　robbery
or　spoliation。　This　is　by　no　means　to　write　that　the　Malays　love　us；
for　I　doubt　whether　the　entente　cordiale　between　any　of　the
dark…skinned　Oriental　races　and　ourselves　is　more　than　skin　deep。　It　is
possible　that　they　prefer　being　equitably　taxed　by　us；　with　the
security　which　our　rule　brings；　to　being　plundered　by　native　princes；
but　we　do　not　understand　them；　or　they　us；　and　where　they　happen　to　be
Mohammedans；　there　is　a　gulf　of　contempt　and　dislike　on　their　part
which　is　rarely　bridged　by　amenities　on　ours。　　The　pilgrimage　to　Mecca
is　the　great　object　of　ambition。　　Many　Malays；　in　spite　of　its　expense
and　difficulties；　make　it　twice；　and　even　three　times。　We　passed　three
women　clothed　in　white　from　head　to　foot；　their　drapery　veiling　them
closely；　leaving　holes　for　their　eyes。　These　had　just　returned　from
Mecca。　The　picturesqueness　of　the　drive　home　was　much　heightened　by　the
darkness；　and　the　brilliancy　of　the　fires　underneath　the　Malay　houses。
The　great　gray　buffalo　which　they　use　for　various　purposesand　which；
though　I　have　written　gray；　is　as　often　pinkhas　a　very　thin　and
sensitive　skin；　and　is　almost　maddened　by　mosquitoes；　and　we　frequently
passed　fires　lighted　in　the　jungle；　with　these　singular　beasts　standing
or　lying　close　to　them　in　the　smoke　on　the　leeward　side；　while　Malays
in　red　sarongs　and　handkerchiefs；　and　pretty　brown　children　scarcely
clothed　at　all；　lounged　in　the　firelight。　Then　Chinese　lamps　and
lanterns；　and　the　sound　of　what　passes　for　music；　then　the　refinement
and　brightness　of　the　Government　bungalow；　and　at　ten　o'clock　my　chair
with　three　bearers；　and　the　solitude　of　the　lonely　Stadthaus。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　X

Malacca　MediaevalismTiger　StoriesThe　Chinese　CarnivalGold　and
GemsA　Weight　of　SplendorNew…Year　RejoicingsSyed　AbdulrahmanA
Mohammedan　PrincessA　Haunted　CityFrancis　XavierThe　Reward　of
〃Pluck〃Projects　of　Travel


STADTHAUS；　MALACCA；　January　23。

Malacca　fascinates　me　more　and　more　daily。　There　is；　among　other
things；　a　mediaevalism　about　it。　The　noise　of　the　modern　world　reaches
it　only　in　the　faintest　echoes；　its　sleep　is　almost　dreamless；　its
sensations　seem　to　come　out　of　books　read　in　childhood。　Thus；　the
splendid　corpse　of　a　royal　tiger　has　been　brought　in　in　a　bullock…cart；
the　driver　claiming　the　reward　of　fifteen　dollars；　and　its　claws　were
given　to　me。　It　was　trapped　only　six　miles　off；　and　its　beautiful
feline　body　had　not　had　time　to　stiffen。　　Even　when　dead；　with　its
fierce　head　and　cruel　paws　hanging　over　the　end　of　the　cart；　it　was　not
an　object　to　be　disrespected。　The　same　reward　is　offered　for　a
rhinoceros；　five　dollars　for　a　crocodile　（alligator？）　and　five　dollars
for　a　boa…constrictor　or　python。　Lately；　at　five　in　the　morning；　a
black　tiger　（panther？）　came　down　the　principal　street　of　Malacca；　tore
a　Chinamen　in　pieces；　and　then；　scared　by　a　posse　of　police　in　pursuit；
jumped　through　a　window　into　a　house。　Every　door　in　the　city　was
barred；　as　the　rumor　spread　like　wildfire。　The　policemen　very　boldly
entered　the　house；　but　the　animal　pinned　the　Malay　corporal　to　the
wall。　The　second　policeman；　a　white　man；　alas！　ran　away。　The　third；　a
Malay；　at　the　risk　of　his　life；　went　close　up　to　the　tiger；　shot　him；
and　beat　him　over　the　head　with　the　butt　of　his　rifle；　which　made　the
beast　let　go　the　corporal　and　turn　on　him；　but　fortunately　he　had
scarcely　got　hold　of　him　when　he　fell　dead。　The　corporal　is　just　coming
out　of　hospital；　almost　completely　paralyzed；　to　be　taken　care　of　for
the　rest　of　his　life；　and　the　man　who　rescued　him　has　got　promotion　and
a　pension。　A　short　time　ago　a　fine　young　tiger　was　brought　alive　to
Captain　Shaw；　and　he　ordered　a　proper　cage　to　be　made；　in　which　to　send
him　to　England；　telling　Babu；　the　〃double　Hadji；〃　to　put　it　into　the
〃godown〃　in　its　bamboo　cage；　but　the　man　put　it　into　the　kitchen；　and
in　the　morning　the　cage　was　found　broken　into　pieces；　the　kitchen
shutters　torn　down；　and　the　tiger　gone！　There　was　a　complete　panic　in
Malacca；　people　kept　their　houses　shut；　and　did　not　dare　to　go　out　even
on　business；　and　not　only　was　the　whole　police　force　turned　out　in
pursuit；　but　the　English　garrison。　It　was　some　days　before　the　scare
subsided　and　the　people　believed　that　the　beast　had　escaped　to　its
natural　home　in　the　jungle。

A　tropical　thunderstorm　of　the　most　violent　kind　occurred　yesterday；
when　I　was　quite　alone　in　the　Stadthaus。　The　rain　fell　in　sheets；
deluges；　streams；　and　the　lightning　flashed　perfectly　blue　through　a
〃darkness　which　could　be　felt。〃　There　is　a　sort　of　grandeur　about　this
old　Dutch　Stadthaus；　with　its　tale　of　two　centuries。　Its　smooth　lawns；
sloping　steeply　to　the　sea；　are　now　brilliant　with　the　gaudy
parrot…like　blossoms　of　the　〃flame　of　the　forest；〃　the　gorgeous
Poinciana　regia；　with　which　they　are　studded。　Malacca　is　such　a　rest
after　the　crowds　of　Japan　and　the　noisy　hurry　of　China！　Its　endless
afternoon　remains　unbroken　except　by　the　dreamy；　colored；　slow…moving
Malay　life　which　passes　below　the　hill。　There　is　never　any　hurry　or
noise。

So　had　I　written　without　prescience！　The　night　of　the　awful　silence
which　succeeded　the　thunderstorm　was　also　the　eve　of　the　Chinese　New
Year；　and　Captain　Shaw　gave　permission　for　〃fireworks〃　from　7　P。M。　till
midnight。　The　term　〃fireworks〃　received　a　most　liberal　construction。
The　noise　was　something　awful；　and　as　it　came　into　the　lonely
Stadthaus；　and　red；　blue；　crimson；　and　greenish…yellow　glares　at　short
intervals　lighted　up　the　picturesque　Malacca　steam　and　its　blue　and
yellow　houses；　with　their　steep　red…tiled　roofs　and　balconies　and
quaint　projections；　and　the　streets　were　traced　in　fire　and　smoke；
while　crackers；　squibs；　and　rockets　went　off　in　hundreds；　and　cannon；
petards；　and　gingalls　were　fired　incessantly；　and　gongs；　drums；　and
tom…toms　were　beaten；　the　sights；　and　the　ceaseless；　tremendous；
universal　din　made　a　rehearsal　of　the　final　assault　on　a　city　in　old
days。　At　1　A。M。；　every　house　being　decorated　and　illuminated；　the
Chinese　men　began　to　make　their　New　Year's　calls；　and　at　six　the　din
began　again。　After　breakfast　the　Governor　drove　out　in　state　to　visit
the　leading　Chinese　merchants；　with　whom　he　is　on　terms　of　the　most
cordial　amity；　and　at　each　house　was　offered　two　dishes　of　cakes；
twelve　dishes　of　candied　and　preserved　fruits；　mandarin　tea　（the　price
of　this　luxury　is　from　25s。　to　45s。　a　pound）；　and　champagne　from　the
finest　Rhenish　vineyards！　At　eleven　all　the　Chinese　children　came　forth
in　carriages　shaped　like　boats；　turned　up　at　both　ends；　painted　red　and
yellow；　and　with　white…fringed　canopies　over　them。　These　were　drawn　by
servants；　and　in　the　case　of　the　wealthy；　a　train　of　servants
accompanied　each　carriage。　It　was　a　sight　worthy　of　a　fabled　age。　The
wealth　of　the　East　in　all　its　gorgeousness　was　poured　out　upon　these
dignified　and　solemn　infants；　who　wore　coronals　of　gold　and　diamonds；
stuffs　of　cloth　of　gold　brocade；　and　satin　sewn　with　pearls；　and　whose
cloth…of…gold　shoes　flashed　with　diamonds！

During　the　morning　four　children　of　a　rich　Chinese　merchant；　attended
by　a　train　of　Chinese　and　Malay　servants；　came　to　see　Mrs。　Shaw。　There
were　a　boy　and　girl　of　five　and　six　years　old；　and　two　younger
children。　A　literal　description　of　their　appearance　reads　like　fiction。
The　girl　wore　a　yellow　petticoat　of　treble　satin　（mandarin　yellow）　with
broad　box　plaits　in　front　and　behind；　exquisitely　embroidered　with
flowers　in　shades　of　blue　silk；　with　narrow　box