the golden chersonese and the way thither-第33部分
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old campaigner； slept whenever they would let me。 Day broke in a heavy
mist； which disappeared magically at sunrise。 As the great sun wheeled
rapidly above the horizon and blazed upon us with merciless fierceness；
all at once the jungle became vociferous。 Loudly clattered the busy
cicada； its simultaneous din； like a concentration of the noise of all
the looms in the world； suddenly breaking off into a simultaneous
silence； the noisy insect world chirped； cheeped； buzzed； whistled；
birds hallooed； hooted； whooped； screeched； apes in a loud and not
inharmonious chorus greeted the sun； and monkeys chattered； yelled；
hooted； quarreled； and spluttered。 The noise was tremendous。 But the
forest was absolutely still； except when some heavy fruit； over ripe；
fell into the river with a splash。 The trees above us were literally
alive with monkeys； and the curiosity of some of them about us was so
great that they came down on 〃monkey ropes〃 and branches for the fun of
touching the roof of the boat with their hands while they hung by their
tails。 They were all full of frolic and mischief。
Then we had a slim repast of soda water and bananas； the Hadji
worshiped with his face toward Mecca； and the boatmen prepared an
elaborate curry for themselves； with salt fish for its basis； and for
its tastiest condiment blachanga Malay preparation much relished by
European lovers of durion and decomposed cheese。 It is made by
trampling a mass of putrefying prawns and shrimps into a paste with
bare feet。 This is seasoned with salt。 The smell is penetrating and
lingering。 Our men made the boat fast； rinsed their mouths； washed
their hands； and ate； using their fingers instead of chopsticks。 Poor
fellows！ they had done twelve hours of splendid work。
Then one of them prepared the betel…nut for the rest。 I think I have
not yet alluded to this abominable practice of betel…nut chewing； which
is universal among the inhabitants of the Malay Peninsula； the
betel…nut being as essential to a Malay as tobacco is to a Japanese； or
opium to the confirmed Chinese opium…smoker。 It is a revolting habit；
and if a person speaks to you while he is chewing his 〃quid〃 of betel；
his mouth looks as if it were full of blood。 People say that the
craving for stimulants is created by our raw； damp climate； but it is
as strong here； at the equator； in this sunny； balmy air。 I have not
yet come across a region in which men； weary in body or spirit； are not
seeking to stimulate or stupefy themselves。 The Malay men and women
being prohibited by the Koran from using alcohol； find the needed
fillip in this nut； but it needs preparation before it suits their
palates。
The betel…nut is the fruit of the lovely； graceful； slender…shafted
areca palm。 This tree at six years old begins to bear about one hundred
nuts a year； which grow in clusters； each nut being about the size of a
nutmeg； and covered with a yellow； fibrous husk。 The requisites for
chewing are： a small piece of areca nut； a leaf of the Sirih or betel
pepper； a little moistened lime； and； if you wish to be very luxurious；
a paste made of spices。 The Sirih leaf was smeared with a little fine
lime taken from a brass box； on this was laid a little； brownish paste；
on this； a bit of the nut； the leaf was then folded neatly round its
contents； and the men began to chew； and to spitthe inevitable
consequence。 The practice stains the teeth black。 I tasted the nut； and
found it pungent and astringent； not tempting。 The Malays think you
look like a beast if you have white teeth。
The heat was exhausting； the mercury 87 degrees in the shade as early
as 8：30； and we all suffered； more or less； from it in our cramped
position and enforced inactivity。 At nine； having been fourteen hours
on the river； we came on a small cleared space； from which a bronzed；
frank…faced man； dressed in white linen； hallooed to us jovially； and
we were soon warmly greeted by Captain Murray； the British Resident in
the State of Sungei Ujong。 On seeing him； we hoped to find a gharrie
and to get some breakfast； and he helped us on shore； as if our hopes
were to be realized； and dragged us under the broiling sun to a long
shed； the quarters of a hundred Chinese coolies； who are making a road
through the jungle。 We sat down on one of the long matted platforms；
which serve them for beds； and talked； but there was no hint of
breakfast； and we soon learned that the Malacca runner had not reached
the Residency at all； and that the note sent from Permatang Pasir；
which should have been delivered at 1 A。M。； had not been received till
8 A。M。； so that Captain Murray had not been able to arrange for our
transport； and had had barely time to ride down to meet us at such
〃full speed；〃 as a swampy and partially made road would allow。 So our
dreams of breakfast ended in cups of stewed tea； given to us by a
half…naked Chinaman； and； to our chagrin； we had to go back to the boat
and be poled up the shallowing and narrowing river for four hours more；
getting on with difficulty； the boat…men constantly jumping into the
water to heave the boat off mud banks。
When we eventually landed at Nioto； a small village； Captain Murray
again met us； and we found a road； and two antiquated buggies； sent by
a Chinaman； with their component parts much lashed together with rope。
I charioteered one of these； with reins so short that I could only
reach them by sitting on the edge of the seat； and a whip so short that
I could not reach the pony with it。 At a Chinese village some policemen
brought us cocoa…nut milk。 After that； the pony could not； or would
not； go； and the Malay syce with difficulty got it along by dragging
it； and we had to walk up every hill in the fierce heat of a tropic
noon。 At the large Chinese village of Rassa； a clever little Sumatra
pony met us； and after passing through some roughish clearings； on
which tapioca is being planted； we arrived here at 4 P。M。； having
traveled sixty miles in thirty…three hours。
The Residency is on a steepish hill in the middle of an open valley；
partially cleared and much defaced by tin diggings。 The Chinese town of
Serambang lies at the foot of the hill。 The valley is nearly surrounded
by richly wooded hills； some of them fully three thousand feet high。
These； which stretch away to the northern State of Selangor； are bathed
in indigo and cobalt； slashed with white here and there； where cool
streams dash over forest…shaded ledges。 The house consists of two
attap roofed bungalows； united by their upper verandas。 Below there are
a garden of acclimatization and a lawn； on which the Resident instructs
the bright little daughter of the Datu Klana in lawn tennis。 It was
very hot； but the afternoon airs were strong enough to lift the British
ensign out of its heavy folds and to rustle the graceful fronds of the
areca palms。
Food was the first necessity； then baths； then sleep； then dinner at
7：30； and then ten hours more sleep。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XIII
The Appurtenances of CivilizationBabuCharacteristics of Captain
MurrayAn Embodied GovernmentChinese Mining EnterpriseA Chinese
Gaming…HouseThe 〃Capitans China〃New…Year VisitsSittings 〃In
Equity〃A Court of JusticeThe Serambang Prison〃Plantation
Hill〃A Monster BonfireAn Ant WorldAn Ant FuneralNight on
〃Plantation Hill〃The Murder of Mr。 LloydA Chinese Dragon PlayA
Visit to a Malay PrinceThe Datu Bandar's HouseA Great
TemptationThe Return JourneyAn Obituary Quotation
RESIDENCY； SUNGEI UJONG； January 30。
We have been here for four days。 The heat is so great that it is
wonderful that one can walk about in the sunshine； but the nights；
though the mercury does not fall below 80 degrees； are cool and
refreshing； and the air and soil are both dry； though a hundred inches
of rain fall in the year。 These wooden bungalows are hot； for the
attap roofs have no lining； but they are also airy。 There is no…one but
myself at night in the one in which my room is； but this is nothing
after the solitude of the great； rambling Stadthaus。 Since we came a
sentry has been on duty always； and a bull…dog is chained at the foot
of the ladder which leads to both bungalows。 But there is really
nothing to fear from these 〃treacherous Malays。〃 It is most curious to
see the appurtenances of civilization in the heart of a Malay jungle；
and all the more so because our long night journey up the Linggi makes
it seem more remote than it is。 We are really only sixty miles from
Malacca。
The drawing…room has a good piano； and many tasteful ornaments； books；
and chinagifts from loving friends and relations in the far off
homeand is as livable as a bachelor would be likely to make it。 There
is a billiard table in the corridor。 The dining…room； which is reached
by going out of doors； with its red…tiled floor and walls of dark；
unpolished wood； is very pretty。 In the middle of the dinner table
there is a reflecting lake for 〃hot…house flowers；〃 and exquisite
crystal； menu cards with holders of Dresden china； four classical
statuettes in Parian； with pine…apples； granadillas； bananas；
pomegranates； and a durion blanda； are the 〃table decorations。〃 The
cuisine is almost too elaborate for a traveler's palate； but plain meat
is rarely to be got； and even when procurable is unpalatable unless
disguised。 Curry is at each meal； but it is not made with curry powder。
Its basis is grated cocoa…nut made into a paste with cocoa…nut milk；
and the spices are added fresh。 Turtles when caught are kept in a pond
until they are needed； and we have turtle soup； stewed turtle； curried
turtle and turtle cutlets ad nauseam。 Fowls are at every meal； but
never plain roasted or plain boiled。 The first day there was broiled
and stewed elephant trunk； which tastes much like beef。
Babu； who is always en grand tenue； has taken command of everything and
saves our host all trouble。 He carves at the sideboard； scolds the
servants in a stage whisper； and pushes them indignantly aside when
they attempt to offer anything to 〃his young ladies；〃 reduces Captain
Murray's butler to a nonentity； and as far as he can turns the
Residency into Government House； waiting on us assiduously in our
rooms； and taking care of our
