the golden chersonese and the way thither-第37部分
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rights of free men。 It is a great pity that this Prince is in Malacca；
for he is said to be a very enlightened ruler。 The photograph which I
inclose （from which the engraving is taken） is of the marriage of his
daughter； a very splendid affair。 The buffalo in front was a marriage
present from the Straits Government； and its covering was of cloth of
gold thick with pearls and precious stones。
We visited yesterday a Malay kampong called Mambu； in order to pay an
unceremonious visit to the Datu Bandar； the Rajah second in rank to the
reigning prince。 His house； with three others； a godown on very high
stilts； and a mound of graves whitened by the petals of the Frangipani；
with a great many cocoa…nut and other trees； was surrounded； as Malay
dwellings often are； by a high fence； within which was another
inclosing a neat； sanded level； under cocoa…palms； on which his
〃private residence〃 and those of his wives stand。 His secretary； a
nice…looking lad in red turban； baju； and sarong； came out to meet us；
followed by the Datu Bandar； a pleasant； able…looking man； with a
cordial manner； who shook hands and welcomed us。 No notice had been
given of our visit； and the Rajah； who is reclaiming and bringing into
good cultivation much of his land； and who sets the example of working
with his own hands； was in a checked shirt； and a common； checked； red
sarong。 Vulgarity is surely a disease of the West alone； though； as in
Japan； one sees that it can be contagious； and this Oriental； far from
apologizing for his dishabille； led us up the steep and difficult
ladder by which his house is entered with as much courteous ease as if
he had been in his splendors。
I thoroughly liked his house。 It is both fitting and tasteful。 We
stepped from the ladder into a long corridor； well…matted； which led to
a doorway with a gold…embroidered silk or valance； and a looped…up
portiere of white…flowered silk or crepe。 This was the entrance to a
small room very well proportioned； with two similar doorways； curtained
with flowered silk； one leading to a room which we did not see； and the
other to a bamboo gridiron platform； which in the better class of Malay
houses always leads to a smaller house at the back； where cooking and
other domestic operations are carried on； and which seems given up to
the women。 There was a rich； dim light in the room； which was cool and
wainscoted entirely with dark red wood； and there was only one long；
low window； with turned bars of the same wood。 There were three
handsome cabinets with hangings of gold and crimson embroidery； and an
ebony frame containing a verse of the Koran in Arabic characters hung
over one doorway。 In accordance with Mohammedan prohibitions； there was
no decoration which bore the likeness of any created thing； but there
were some artistic arabesques under the roof。 The furniture； besides
the cabinets； consisted of a divan； several ebony chairs； a round table
covered with a cool yellow cloth； and a table against the wall draped
with crimson silk flowered with gold。 The floor was covered with fine
matting； over which were Oudh rugs in those mixtures of toned…down rich
colors which are so very beautiful。 Richness and harmony characterized
the room； and it was distinctively Malay； one could not say that it
reminded one of anything except of the flecked and colored light which
streams through dark； old； stained glass。
The Datu Bandar's brother and uncle came in； the first a very handsome
Hadji； with a bright； intelligent countenance。 He has lived in Mecca
for eight years studying the Koran under a renowned teacher； and in
this quest of Mussulman learning has spent several thousand dollars。
〃We never go to Mecca to trade；〃 he said； 〃we go for religious purposes
only。〃 These men looked superb in their red dresses and turbans；
although the Malays are anything but a handsome race。 Their hospitality
was very graceful。 Many of the wealthier Mohammedans； though they don't
drink wine； keep it for their Christian guests； and they offered us
champagne； which is supposed to be an irresistible temptation to the
Christian palate。 On our refusing it they brought us cow's milk and
most delicious coffee with a very fragrant aroma； and not darker in
color than tea of an average strength。 This was made from roasted
coffee leaves。 The berries are exported。 A good many pretty； quiet
children stood about； but though the Rajah gave us to understand that
they were the offspring of three mothers； we were not supposed to see
any of 〃the mean ones within the gates。〃
Our hosts had a good deal to say； and did not leave us to entertain
them； though we are but 〃infidel dogs。〃 That we are regarded as such；
along with all other unbelievers； always makes me feel shy with
Mohammedans。 Some time ago； when Captain Shaw pressed on the Malays the
impropriety of shooting Chinamen； as they were then in the habit of
doing； the reply of one of them was； 〃Why not shoot Chinamen？ they've
no religion；〃 and though it would be highly discourteous in members of
a ruled race to utter this sentiment regarding their rulers； I have not
the least doubt that it is their profound conviction concerning
ourselves。
Nothing shows more the honesty and excellence of Captain Murray's
purposes than that he should be as much respected and loved as he is in
spite of a manner utterly opposed to all Oriental notions of dignity；
whether Malay or Chinese。 I have mentioned his abruptness； as well as
his sailor…like heartiness； but they never came into such strong relief
as at the Datu Bandar's； against the solemn and dignified courtesy of
our hosts。
We returned after dark； had turtle…soup and turtle…steak； not near so
good as veal； which it much resembles； for dinner； sang 〃Auld Lang
Syne；〃 which brought tears into the Resident's kindly eyes； and are now
ready for an early start to…morrow。
Stadthaus； Malacca。We left Serambang before daylight on Thursday in
buggies； escorted by Captain Murray； the buggies； as usual； being lent
by the Chinese 〃Capitans。〃 Horses had been sent on before； and after
changing them we drove the second stage through most magnificent
forest； until they could no longer drag the buggies through the mud； at
which point of discomfiture three saddled ponies and two chairs were
waiting to take us through the jungle to the river。 We rode along an
infamous track； much of it knee…deep in mud； through a green and silent
twilight； till we emerged upon something like English park and
fox…cover scenery； varied by Malay kampongs under groves of palms。 In
the full blaze of noon we reached the Linggi police station； from which
we had started in the sampan； and were received by a company of police
with fixed bayonets。 We dined in the police station veranda； and as the
launch had been obliged to drop down the river because the water was
falling； we went to Sempang in a native boat； paddled by four Malays
with paddles like oval…ended spades with spade handles； a guard of
honor of policemen going down with us。 There we took leave of our most
kind and worthy host； who； with tears in his kind eyes； immediately
turned up the river to dwell alone in his bungalow with his bull…dog；
his revolver； and his rifle； a self…exiled man。*
＇*In 1881； Captain Murray； feeling ill after prolonged exposure to the
sun； went to Malacca； where he died a few days afterward at the house of
his friend Mr。 Hayward。 Sir F。 A。 Weld writes of him in a dispatch to
Lord Kimberley：〃I cannot close this notice of the State of Sungei
Ujong without recalling the memory of Captain Murray； so lately its
Resident； to whom it owes much； and who was devoted to its people and
interests。 A man of great honesty of purpose and kindliness of heart；
Captain Murray possessed many of those qualities which are required for
the successful administration of a Malay State； and though he labored
under the disadvantage of want of knowledge of the native tongue； he yet
was able to attach to himself； in a singular manner； the affections of
all around him。 For the last six years； Captain Murray has successfully
advised in the administration of the Government of Sungei Ujong；
consolidating order and good government； and doing much to open out the
country and develop its resources。 His name will ever be associated with
its prosperity； and his memory be long fresh in the hearts of its
inhabitants。〃＇
After it grew dark we had the splendid sight of a great tract of forest
on fire close to the sea。 We landed here at a pier eight hundred feet
long； accessible to launches at high water； where several peons and two
inspectors of police met us。 Our expedition has been the talk of the
little foreign world of Malacca。 We had an enthusiastic welcome at
Government House； but Captain Shaw says he will never forgive himself
for not writing to Captain Murray in time to arrange our transport； and
for sending us off so hurriedly with so little food； but I hope by
reiteration to convince him that thereby we gained the night on the
Linggi river； which； as a traveling experience； is worth all the rest。
I。 L。 B。
A CHAPTER ON SELANGOR*
SelangorCapabilities of SelangorNatural CapabilitiesLawlessness
in SelangorBritish Interference in SelangorA Hopeful Outlook
Selangor is a small State lying between 2 degrees 34'； and 3 degrees
42' N。 Its coast…line is about one hundred and twenty miles in length。
Perak is its northern boundary； Sungei Ujong its southern； and some of
the small States of the Negri Sembilan and unexplored jungle and
mountains separate it from Pahang on the east。 It is watered by the
Selangor； Klang and Langat rivers； which rise in the hills of its
eastern frontier。 Its population is not accurately known； but the
result of an attempt to estimate it； made by the Resident in 1876； is
fifteen thousand Chinese and from two thousand to three thousand
Malays。 Mr。 Douglas； the late Resident； puts the Malay population at a
higher figure； and estimates the aboriginal population at one thousand；
but this is probably largely in excess of their actual numbers。
＇*In offering this very slight sketch of Selangor to my readers as
prefatory to the letters which follow； I desire to express my
