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第42部分

the golden chersonese and the way thither-第42部分

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the heavens in no time; truly 〃coming forth as a bridegroom out of his
chamber; and rejoicing as a giant to run his course;〃 and as truly
〃There is nothing hid from the heat thereof;〃 for hardly is he visible
than the heat becomes tremendous。 But tropical trees and flowers;
instead of drooping and withering under the solar fury; rejoice in it。

This morning was splendid。 The great banana fronds under the still;
blue sky looked truly tropical The mercury was 82 degrees at 7 A。M。 The
〃tiger mosquitoes;〃 day torments; large mosquitoes with striped legs; a
loud metallic hum; and a plethora of venom; were in full fury from
daylight。  Ammonia does not relieve their bites as it does those of the
night mosquitoes; and I am covered with inflamed and confluent lumps as
large as the half of a bantam's egg。 But these and other drawbacks; I
know from experience; will soon be forgotten; and I shall remember only
the beauty; the glory; and the intense enjoyment of this day。

Quite early the Rajah Moussa arrived in a baju of rich; gold…colored
silk; which suited his swarthy complexion。 He sat in the room
pretending to look over the Graphic; but in reality watching me; as I
wrote to you; just as I should watch an ouf。  At last he asked how many
Japanese I had killed!!!!

The succession is here hereditary in the male line; and this Rajah
Moussa is the Sultan's eldest son。 The Sultan receives 2;000 pounds a
year out of the revenue; and this Rajah 960 pounds。

The Resident arrived at nine; wearing a very fine dress sword; and gold
epaulettes on his linen coat; and under a broiling sun we all walked
through a cleared part of the jungle; through palms and bananas; to the
reception at the Sultan's; which was the 〃motive〃 of our visit。 The
Sultan; Abdulsamat; has three houses in a beautiful situation; at the
end of a beautiful valley。 They are in the purest style of Malay
architecture; and not a Western idea appears anywhere。 The wood of
which they are built is a rich brown red。 The roofs are very high and
steep; but somewhat curved。 The architecture is simple; appropriate;
and beautiful The dwelling consists of the Sultan's house; a broad;
open passage; and then the women's house or harem。  At the end of the
above passage is the audience…hall; and the front entrance to the
Sultan's house is through a large porch which forms a convenient
reception room on occasions like that of yesterday。

From this back passage or court a ladder; with rungs about two feet
apart; leads into the Sultan's house; and a step…ladder into the
women's house。 Two small boys; entirely naked; were incongruous objects
sitting at the foot of the ladder。 Here we waited for him; two files of
policemen being drawn up as a guard of honor。 He came out of the
women's house very actively; shook hands with each of us (obnoxious
custom!); and passed through the lines of police round to the other
side of his house into the porch; the floor of which was covered with
fine matting nearly concealed by handsome Persian rugs。

The Sultan sat on a high…backed; carved chair or throne。  All the other
chairs were plain。 The Resident sat on his right; I on his left; and on
my left the Rajah Moussa; with other sons of the sultan; and some
native princes。 Mr。  Syers acted as interpreter。 Outside there were
double lines of military police; and the bright adjacent slopes were
covered with the Sultan's followers and other Malays。 The balcony of
the audience…hall; which has a handsome balustrade; was full of Malay
followers in bright reds and cool white。 It was all beautiful; and the
palms rustled in the soft air; and bright birds and butterflies flew
overhead; rejoicing in mere existence。

If Abdulsamat were not Sultan; I should pick him out as the most
prepossessing Malay that I have seen。 He is an elderly man; with
iron…gray hair; a high and prominent brow; large; prominent; dark;
eyes; a well…formed nose; and a good mouth。 The face is bright; kindly;
and fairly intelligent。  He is about the middle height。 His dress
became him well; and he looked comfortable in it though he had not worn
it before。 It was a rich; black velvet baju or jacket; something like a
loose hussar jacket; braided; frogged; and slashed with gold; trousers
with a broad gold strip on the outside; a rich silk sarong in checks
and shades of red; and a Malay printed silk handkerchief knotted round
his head; forming a sort of peak。 No Mohammedan can wear a hat with a
rim or stiff crown; or of any kind which would prevent him from bowing
his forehead to the earth in worship。

The Resident read the proceedings of the council of the day before; and
the Sultan confirmed them。 The nominal approval of measures initiated
by the Resident and agreed to in council; and the signing of
death…warrants; are among the few prerogatives which 〃his Highness〃
retains。 Then a petition for a pension from Rajah Brean was read; the
Rajah; a slovenly…looking man; being present。 The petition was refused;
and the Sultan; in refusing it; spoke some very strong words about
idleness; which seems a great failing of Rajah Brean's but it has my
strong sympathy; for

     〃Why
     Should life all labor be?
     There is no joy but calm;
     Why should we only toil; the roof and crown of things?〃

During the reception a richly…dressed attendant sat on the floor with
an iron tube like an Italian iron in his hand; in which he slowly
worked an arrangement which might be supposed to be a heater up and
down。 I thought that he might be preparing betel…nut; but Mr。 Douglas
said that he was working a charm for the Sultan's safety; and it was
believed that if he paused some harm would happen。 Another attendant;
yet more richly dressed; carried a white scarf fringed and embroidered
with gold over one shoulder; and two vases of solid gold; with their
surfaces wrought by exquisite workmanship into flowers nearly as
delicate as filigree work。 One of these contained betel…nut; and the
other sirih leaves。 Meanwhile the police; with their bayonets flashing
in the sun; and the swarthy; richly…costumed throng on the palm…shaded
slopes; were a beautiful sight。 The most interesting figure to me was
that of the reforming heir; the bigoted Moslem in his gold…colored
baju; with his swarthy face; singular and almost sinister expression;
and his total lack of all Western fripperies of dress。 I think that
there may be trouble when he comes to the throne; at least if the
present arrangements continue。  He does not look like a man who would
be content to be a mere registrar of the edicts of 〃a dog of an
infidel。〃

The Sultan has a 〃godown〃 containing great treasures; concerning which
he leads an anxious lifehoards of diamonds and rubies; and priceless
damascened krises; with scabbards of pure gold wrought into marvelous
devices and incrusted with precious stones。 On Mr。 Douglas's suggestion
(as I understood) he sent a kris with an elaborate gold scabbard to the
Governor; saying: 〃It is not from the Sultan to the Governor; _but from
a friend to a friend_。〃 He seems anxious for Selangor to 〃get on。〃 He
is making a road at Langat at his own expense; and acting; doubtless;
under British advice; has very cordially agreed that the odious system
of debt slavery shall be quietly dropped from among the institutions of
Selangor。

When this audience was over I asked to be allowed to visit the Sultana;
and; with Mrs。 Ferney as interpreter; went to the harem; accompanied by
the Rajah Moussa。 It is a beautiful house; of one very large; lofty
room; part of which is divided into apartments by heavy silk curtains。
One end of it is occupied by a high dais covered with fine mats; below
which is another dais covered with Persian carpets。 On this the Sultana
received us; the Rajah Moussa; who is not her son; and ourselves
sitting on chairs。 If I understood rightly that this prince is not her
son; I do not see how it is that he can go into the women's apartments。
Two guards sat on the floor just within the door; and numbers of women;
some of them in white veils; followers of the Sultana; sat in rows also
on the floor。

It must be confessed that the 〃light of the harem〃 is not beautiful。
She looks nearly middle…aged。 She is short and fat; with a flat nose;
open wide nostrils; thick lips; and filed teeth; much blackened by
betel…nut chewing。 Her expression is pleasant; and her manner is
prepossessing。  She wore a rich; striped; red silk sarong; and a very
short; green silk kabaya with diamond clasps; but I saw very little of
her dress or herself; because she was almost enveloped in a pure white
veil of a fine woolen material spangled with gold stars; and she
concealed so much of her face with it; in consequence of the presence
of the Rajah Moussa; that I only rarely got a glimpse of the
magnificent diamond solitaires in her ears。 Our conversation was not
brilliant; and the Sultana looked to me as if she had attained nirvana;
and had 〃neither ideas nor the consciousness of the absence of ideas。〃
We returned and took leave of the Sultan; and after we left I caught a
glimpse of him lounging at ease in a white shirt and red sarong; all
his gorgeousness having disappeared。

After we returned to the bungalow the Sultan sent me a gift。 Eight
attendants dressed in pure white came into the room in single file; and
each bowing to the earth; sat down a brass salver; with its contents
covered with a pure white cloth。 Again bowing; they uncovered them; and
displayed the fruitage of the tropics。 There were young cocoa…nuts;
gold…colored bananas of the kind which the Sultan eats; papayas; and
clusters of a species of jambu; a pear…shaped fruit; beautiful to look
at; each fruit looking as if made of some transparent; polished white
wax with a pink flush on one side。 The Rajah Moussa also arrived and
took coffee; and the verandas were filled with his followers。 Every
Rajah goes about attended; and seems to be esteemed according to the
size of his following。

We left this remote and beautiful place at noon; and after a delightful
cruise of five hours down the Jugra; and among islands floating on a
waveless sea; we reached dreary; decayed Klang in the evening。

I。 L。 B。



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