the golden chersonese and the way thither-第54部分

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do；　so　I　will　take　another　pen。　The　same　is　true　of　an　elephant。　I　am
without　knowledge　of　what　it　may　be　capable　of！

Before　I　came　I　dreamt　of　howdahs　and　cloth　of　gold　trappings；　but　my
elephant　had　neither。　In　fact　there　was　nothing　grand　about　him　but　his
ugliness。　His　back　was　covered　with　a　piece　of　raw　hide；　over　which
were　several　mats；　and　on　either　side　of　the　ridgy　backbone　a　shallow
basket；　filled　with　fresh　leaves　and　twigs；　and　held　in　place　by　ropes
of　rattan。　I　dropped　into　one　of　these　baskets　from　the　porch；　a　young
Malay　lad　into　the　other；　and　my　bag　was　tied　on　behind　with　rattan。　A
noose　of　the　same　with　a　stirrup　served　for　the　driver　to　mount。　He　was
a　Malay；　wearing　only　a　handkerchief　and　sarong；　a　gossiping；　careless
fellow；　who　jumped　off　whenever　he　had　a　chance　of　a　talk；　and　left　us
to　ourselves。　He　drove　with　a　stick　with　a　curved　spike　at　the　end　of
it；　which；　when　the　elephant　was　bad；　was　hooked　into　the　membranous
〃flapper；〃　always　evoking　the　uprearing　and　brandishing　of　the
proboscis；　and　a　sound　of　ungentle　expostulation；　which　could　be　heard
a　mile　off。　He　sat　on　the　head　of　the　beast；　sometimes　cross…legged；
and　sometimes　with　his　legs　behind　the　huge　ear　covers。　Mr。　Maxwell
assured　me　that　he　would　not　send　me　into　a　region　without　a　European
unless　it　were　perfectly　safe；　which　I　fully　believed；　any　doubts　as　to
my　safety；　if　I　had　any；　being　closely　connected　with　my　steed。

This　mode　of　riding　is　not　comfortable。　One　sits　facing　forward　with
the　feet　dangling　over　the　edge　of　the　basket。*　This　edge　soon　produces
a　sharp　ache　or　cramp；　and　when　one　tries　to　get　relief　by　leaning　back
on　anything；　the　awkward；　rolling　motion　is　so　painful；　that　one
reverts　to　the　former　position　till　it　again　becomes　intolerable。　　Then
the　elephant　had　not　been　loaded　〃with　brains；〃　and　his　pack　was　as
troublesome　as　the　straw　shoes　of　the　Japanese　horses。　It　was　always
slipping　forward　or　backward；　and　as　I　was　heavier　than　the　Malay　lad；
I　was　always　slipping　down　and　trying　to　wriggle　myself　up　on　the　great
ridge　which　was　the　creature's　backbone；　and　always　failing；　and　the
mahout　was　always　stopping　and　pulling　the　rattan　ropes　which　bound　the
whole　arrangement　together；　but　never　succeeding　in　improving　it。
＇*See　Frontispiece。＇

Before　we　had　traveled　two　hours；　the　great　bulk　of　the　elephant；
without　any　warning；　gently　subsided　behind；　and　then　as　gently　in
front；　the　huge；　ugly　legs　being　extended　in　front　of　him；　and　the　man
signed　to　me　to　get　off；　which　I　did　by　getting　on　his　head　and　letting
myself　down　by　a　rattan　rope　upon　the　driver；　who　made　a　step　of　his
back；　for　even　when　〃kneeling；〃　as　this　queer　attitude　is　called；　a
good　ladder　is　needed　for　comfortable　getting　off　and　on。　　While　the
whole　arrangement　of　baskets　was　being　re…rigged；　I　clambered　into　a
Malay　dwelling　of　the　poorer　class；　and　was　courteously　received　and
regaled　with　bananas　and　buffalo　milk。　Hospitality　is　one　of　the　Malay
virtues。　This　house　is　composed　of　a　front　hut　and　a　back　hut　with　a
communication。　Like　all　others　it　is　raised　to　a　good　height　on　posts。
The　uprights　are　of　palm；　and　the　elastic；　gridiron　floor　of　split
laths　of　the　invaluable　nibong　palm　（oncosperma　filamentosum）。　The
sides　are　made　of　neatly　split　reeds；　and　the　roof；　as　in　all　houses；
of　the　dried　leaves　of　the　nipah　palm　（nipa　fruticans）　stretched　over　a
high　ridge　pole　and　steep　rafters　of　bamboo。　I　could　not　see　that　a
single　nail　had　been　used　in　the　house。　The　whole　of　it　is　lashed
together　with　rattan。　The　furniture　consists　entirely　of　mats；　which
cover　a　part　of　the　floor；　and　are　used　both　for　sitting　on　and
sleeping　on；　and　a　few　small；　hard；　circular　bolsters　with　embroidered
ends。　A　musket；　a　spear；　some　fishing…rods；　and　a　buffalo　yoke　hung
against　the　wall　of　the　reception　room。　In　the　back　room；　the　province
of　the　women　and　children；　there　were　an　iron　pot；　a　cluster　of
bananas；　and　two　calabashes。　The　women　wore　only　sarongs；　and　the
children　nothing。　The　men；　who　were　not　much　clothed；　were　lounging　on
the　mats。

The　Malays　are　passionately　fond　of　pets；　and　are　said　to　have　much
skill　in　taming　birds　and　animals。　Doubtless　their　low　voices　and
gentle；　supple　movements　never　shock　the　timid　sensitiveness　of　brutes。
Besides　this；　Malay　children　yield　a　very　ready　obedience　to　their
elders；　and　are　encouraged　to　invite　the　confidence　of　birds　and
beasts；　rather　than　to　torment　them。　They　catch　birds　by　means　of
bird…lime　made　of　gutta；　by　horse…hair　nooses；　and　by　imitating　their
call。　In　this　small　house　there　were　bamboo　cages　containing　twenty
birds；　most　of　them　talking　minas　and　green…feathered　small　pigeons。
They　came　out　of　their　cages　when　called；　and　perched　in　rows　on　the
arms　of　the　men。　I　don't　know　whether　the　mina　can　learn　many　words；
but　it　imitates　the　human　voice　so　wonderfully　that　in　Hawaii　when　it
spoke　English　I　was　quite　deceived　by　it。　　These　minas　articulated　so
humanly　that　I　did　know　whether　a　bird　or　a　Malay　spoke。　There　were
four　love…birds　in　an　exquisitely　made　bamboo　cage；　lovely　little
creatures　with　red　beaks　and　blue　and　green　plumage。　The　children　catch
small　grasshoppers　for　their　birds　with　a　shovel…shaped　instrument　of
open　rattan　work。　When　I　add　that　there　were　some　homely　domestic　fowls
and　a　nearly　tailless　cat；　I　think　I　have　catalogued　the　visible
possessions　of　this　family；　with　the　exception　of　a　bamboo　cradle　with
a　small　brown　inmate　hanging　from　the　rafters；　and　a　small　shed；　used；
I　believe；　for　storing　rice。

The　open　floor；　while　it　gives　air　and　ventilation；　has　also　its
disadvantages；　for　solid　and　liquid　refuse　is　thrown　through　it　so
conveniently　that　the　ground　under　the　house　is　apt　to　contain　stagnant
pools　and　heaps　of　decomposing　matter；　and　men　lying　asleep　on　mats　on
these　gridirons　have　sometimes　been　stabbed　with　a　kris　inserted
between　the　bars　from　below　by　an　enemy　seeking　revenge。

I　must　not；　however；　give　the　impression　that　the　Malays　are　a　dirty
people。　They　wash　their　clothes　frequently；　and　bathe　as　often　as　is
possible。　They　try　to　build　their　houses　near　water；　and　use　small
bathing…sheds。

I　went　into　another　house；　rather　poorer　than　the　former；　and；　with　a
touching　hospitality；　they　made　signs　to　me　to　know　if　I　would　like　a
cocoa…nut。　I　hinted　that　I　would；　and　the　man　at　once　got　up　and　called
to　him　an　ape　or　monkey　about　three　feet　high；　which　was　playing　with　a
child；　and　the　animal　went　out　with　him；　and　in　no　time　was　at　the　top
of　a　tall　cocoa…nut　tree。　His　master　said　something　to　him；　and　he
moved　about　examining　the　nuts　till　he　decided　upon　a　green　one；　which
he　wrung　off；　using　teeth　and　hands　for　the　operation。　The　slightly
acid　milk　was　refreshing；　but　its　〃meat；〃　which　was　of　the　consistency
and　nearly　the　tastelessness　of　the　white　of　an　egg　boiled　for　five
minutes；　was　not　so　good　as　that　of　the　riper　nuts。

I　had　walked　on　for　some　distance；　and　I　had　to　walk　back　again　before
I　found　my　elephant。　I　had　been　poking　about　in　the　scrub　in　search　of
some　acid　fruits；　and　when　I　got　back　to　the　road；　was　much　surprised
to　find　that　my　boots　were　filled　with　blood；　and　on　looking　for　the
cause　I　found　five　small　brown　leeches；　beautifully　striped　with
yellow；　firmly　attached　to　my　ankles。　I　had　not　heard　that　these　were
pests　in　Perak；　and　feared　that　they　were　something　worse；　but　the
elephant　driver；　seeing　my　plight；　made　some　tobacco　juice　and　squirted
it　over　the　creatures；　when　they　recoiled　in　great　disgust。　Owing　to
the　exercise　I　was　obliged　to　take；　the　bites　bled　for　several　hours。　I
do　not　remember　feeling　the　first　puncture。　I　have　now　heard　that　these
blood…suckers　infest　leaves　and　herbage；　and　that　when　they　hear　the
rustling　made　by　man　or　animal　in　passing；　they　stretch　themselves　to
their　fullest　length；　and　if　they　can　touch　any　part　of　his　body　or
dress　they　hold　on　to　it；　and　as　quickly　as　possible　reach　some　spot
where　they　can　suck　their　fill。

I　am　making　my　narrative　as　slow　as　my　journey；　but　the　things　I　write
of　will　be　as　new　to　you　as　they　were　to　me。　　New　it　was　certainly　to
stand　upon　a　carpet　of　the　sensitive　plant　at　noon；　with　the　rays　of　a
nearly　vertical　sun　streaming　down　from　a　cloudless；　steely　blue　sky；
watching　the　jungle　monster　meekly　kneeling　on　the　ground；　with　two
Malays　who　do　not　know　a　word　of　English　as　my　companions；　and　myself
unarmed　and　unescorted　in　the　heart　of　a　region　so　lately　the　scene　of
war；　about　which　seven　blue　books　have　been　written；　and　about　the
lawlessness　and　violence　of　which　so　many　stories　have　been
industriously　circulated。

Certainly　I　always　dreamed　that　there　must　be　something　splendid　in
riding　on　an　elephant；　but　I　don't　feel　the　least　accession　of　dignity
in　consequence。　It　is　true；　however；　here；　that　though　the　trappings
are　mean　and　almost　savage；　a　man's　importance　is　estimated　by　the
number　of　his　elephants。　When　the　pack　was　adjusted；　the　mahout　jumped
on　the　back；　and　giving　me　his　hands　hauled　me　up　over　the　head；　after
which　the　creature　rose　gently　from　the　ground；　and　we　went　on　our
journey。

But　the　ride　was　〃a　fearful　joy；〃　_if_　a　joy　at　all！　Soon　the　driver
jumped　off　for　a　gossip　and　a　smoke；　leaving　the　elephant　to　〃gang　his
ain　gates〃　for　a　mile　or　more；　and　he　turned　into　the　jungle；　where　he
began　to　rend　and　tear　the　trees；　and　then　going　to　a　mud…hole；　he　drew
all　the　water　out　of　it；　squirted　it　with　a　loud　noise　over　himself　and
his　riders；　soaking　my　clothes　with　it；　and　when　he　turned　back　to　the
road　again；　he　several　times　stopped　and　seemed　to　stand　on　his　head　by
stiffening　his　proboscis　and　leaning　upon　it；　and　when　I　hit　him　with
my　umbrella　he　uttered　the　loudest　roar　I　ever　heard。　My　Malay　fellow…
rider　jumped　off　and　ran　back　for　the　driver；　on　which　the　panniers
came　altogether　down　on　my　side；　and　I　hung　on　with　difficulty；
wondering　what　other　possible　contingencies　could　occur；　always
expecting　that　the　beast；　which　was　flourishing　his　proboscis；　would
lift　me　off　with　it　and　deposit　me　in　a　mud…hole。

On　the　driver's　return　I　had　to　dismount　again；　and　this　time