the mountains(山脉)-第13部分
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confidingly in the very heart of the austere forest。
Always these parks are green； always are they clear and open。 Their
size varies widely。 Some are as little as a city lawn； others； like the great
Monache；＇2＇ are miles in extent。 In them resides the possibility of your
traveling the high country； for they supply the feed for your horses。
＇2＇ Do not fail to sound the final e。
Being desert…weary； the Tenderfoot and I cried out with the joy of it；
and told in extravagant language how this was the best camp we had ever
made。
〃It's a bum camp；〃 growled Wes。 〃If we couldn't get better camps
than this； I'd quit the game。〃
He expatiated on the fact that this particular meadow was somewhat
boggy； that the feed was too watery； that there'd be a cold wind down
through the pines； and other small and minor details。 But we； our backs
propped against appropriately slanted rocks； our pipes well aglow； gazed
down the twilight through the wonderful great columns of the trees to
where the white horses shone like snow against the unaccustomed relief of
green； and laughed him to scorn。 What did weor the horses for that
matter care for trifling discomforts of the body？ In these intangible
comforts of the eye was a great refreshment of the spirit。
The following day we rode through the pine forests growing on the
ridges and hills and in the elevated bowl…like hollows。 These were not
the so… called 〃big trees；〃with those we had to do later； as you shall see。
They were merely sugar and yellow pines； but never anywhere have I seen
finer specimens。 They were planted with a grand sumptuousness of
space； and their trunks were from five to twelve feet in diameter and
upwards of two hundred feet high to the topmost spear。 Underbrush；
ground growth； even saplings of the same species lacked entirely； so that
we proceeded in the clear open aisles of a tremendous and spacious
magnificence。
This very lack of the smaller and usual growths； the generous plan of
spacing； and the size of the trees themselves necessarily deprived us of a
standard of comparison。 At first the forest seemed immense。 But after
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a little our eyes became accustomed to its proportions。 We referred it
back to the measures of long experience。 The trees； the wood…aisles； the
extent of vision shrunk to the normal proportions of an Eastern pinery。
And then we would lower our gaze。 The pack…train would come into
view。 It had become lilliputian； the horses small as white mice； the men
like tin soldiers； as though we had undergone an enchantment。 But in a
moment； with the rush of a mighty transformation； the great trees would
tower huge again。
In the pine woods of the mountains grows also a certain close…clipped
parasitic moss。 In color it is a brilliant yellow…green； more yellow than
green。 In shape it is crinkly and curly and tangled up with itself like very
fine shavings。 In consistency it is dry and brittle。 This moss girdles the
trunks of trees with innumerable parallel inch…wide bands a foot or so
apart； in the manner of old…fashioned striped stockings。 It covers entirely
sundry twigless branches。 Always in appearance is it fantastic；
decorative； almost Japanese； as though consciously laid in with its vivid
yellow…green as an intentional note of a tone scheme。 The somberest
shadows； the most neutral twilights； the most austere recesses are lighted
by it as though so many freakish sunbeams had severed relations with the
parent luminary to rest quietly in the coolnesses of the ancient forest。
Underfoot the pine…needles were springy beneath the horse's hoof。
The trail went softly； with the courtesy of great gentleness。 Occasionally
we caught sight of other ridges；also with pines；across deep sloping
valleys； pine filled。 The effect of the distant trees seen from above was
that of roughened velvet； here smooth and shining； there dark with rich
shadows。 On these slopes played the wind。 In the level countries it
sang through the forest progressively： here on the slope it struck a
thousand trees at once。 The air was ennobled with the great voice； as a
church is ennobled by the tones of a great organ。 Then we would drop
back again to the inner country； for our way did not contemplate the
descents nor climbs； but held to the general level of a plateau。
Clear fresh brooks ran in every ravine。 Their water was snow…white
against the black rocks； or lay dark in bank…shadowed pools。 As our
horses splashed across we could glimpse the rainbow trout flashing to
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THE MOUNTAINS
cover。 Where the watered hollows grew lush were thickets full of birds；
outposts of the aggressively and cheerfully worldly in this pine…land of
spiritual detachment。 Gorgeous bush…flowers； great of petal as magnolias；
with perfume that lay on the air like a heavy drowsiness； long clear
stretches of an ankle… high shrub of vivid emerald； looking in the distance
like sloping meadows of a peculiar color…brilliance； patches of smaller
flowers where for the trifling space of a street's width the sun had
unobstructed fall； these from time to time diversified the way； brought to
our perceptions the endearing trifles of earthiness； of humanity； befittingly
to modify the austerity of the great forest。 At a brookside we saw； still
fresh and moist； the print of a bear's foot。 From a patch of the little
emerald brush； a barren doe rose to her feet； eyed us a moment； and then
bounded away as though propelled by springs。 We saw her from time to
time surmounting little elevations farther and farther away。
The air was like cold water。 We had not lung capacity to satisfy our
desire for it。 There came with it a dry exhilaration that brought high
spirits； an optimistic viewpoint； and a tremendous keen appetite。 It
seemed that we could never tire。 In fact we never did。 Sometimes； after
a particularly hard day； we felt like resting； but it was always after the
day's work was done； never while it was under way。 The Tenderfoot and
I one day went afoot twenty…two miles up and down a mountain fourteen
thousand feet high。 The last three thousand feet were nearly straight up
and down。 We finished at a four…mile clip an hour before sunset； and
discussed what to do next to fill in the time。 When we sat down； we
found we had had about enough； but we had not discovered it before。
All of us； even the morose and cynical Dinkey； felt the benefit of the
change from the lower country。 Here we were definitely in the
Mountains。 Our plateau ran from six to eight thousand feet in altitude。
Beyond it occasionally we could see three more ridges； rising and falling；
each higher than the last。 And then； in the blue distance； the very crest of
the broad system called the Sierras；another wide region of sheer granite
rising in peaks； pinnacles； and minarets； rugged； wonderful； capped with
the eternal snows。
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IX
THE TRAIL
When you say 〃trail〃 to a Westerner； his eye lights up。 This is
because it means something to him。 To another it may mean something
entirely different； for the blessed word is of that rare and beautiful
category which is at once of the widest significance and the most intimate
privacy to him who utters it。 To your mind leaps the picture of the dim
forest…aisles and the murmurings of tree…top breezes； to him comes a
vision of the wide dusty desert； to me； perhaps； a high wild country of
wonder。 To all of us it is the slender； unbroken； never… ending thread
connecting experiences。
For in a mysterious way； not to be understood； our trails never do end。
They stop sometimes； and wait patiently while we dive in and out of
houses； but always when we are ready to go on； they are ready too； and so
take up the journey placidly as though nothing had intervened。 They
begin； when？ Sometime； away in the past； you may remember a single
episode； vivid through the mists of extreme youth。 Once a very little boy
walked with his father under a green roof of leaves tha
