the mountains(山脉)-第36部分
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so that the natural supply probably keeps even with the season's catches。
Still the trail is on the direct route to Mount Whitney； and year by year the
ascent of this 〃top of the Republic〃 is becoming more the proper thing to
do。 Every camping party stops for a try at the Golden Trout； and of
course the fish…hog is a sure occasional migrant。 The cowboys told of
two who caught six hundred in a day。 As the certainly increasing tide of
summer immigration gains in volume； the Golden Trout； in spite of his
extraordinary numbers at present； is going to be caught out。
Therefore； it seems the manifest duty of the Fisheries to provide for
the proper protection and distribution of this species； especially the
distribution。 Hundreds of streams in the Sierras are without trout simply
because of some natural obstruction； such as a waterfall too high to jump；
which prevents their ascent of the current。 These are all well adapted to
the planting of fish； and might just as well be stocked by the Golden Trout
as by the customary Rainbow。 Care should be taken lest the two species
become hybridized； as has occurred following certain misguided efforts in
the South Fork of the Kern。
So far as I know but one attempt has been made to transplant these fish。
About five or six years ago a man named Grant carried some in pails
across to a small lake near at hand。 They have done well； and curiously
enough have grown to a weight of from one and a half to two pounds。
This would seem to show that their small size in Volcano Creek results
entirely from conditions of feed or opportunity for development； and that a
study of proper environment might result in a game fish to rival the
Rainbow in size and certainly to surpass him in curious interest。
A great many well…meaning people who have marveled at the
abundance of the Golden Trout in their natural habitat laugh at the idea
that Volcano Creek will ever become 〃fished out。〃 To such it should be
pointed out that the fish in question is a voracious feeder； is without
shelter； and quickly landed。 A simple calculation will show how many
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fish a hundred moderate anglers； camping a week apiece； would take out
in a season。 And in a short time there will be many more than a hundred；
few of them moderate； coming up into the mountains to camp just as long
as they have a good time。 All it needs is better trails； and better trails are
under way。 Well…meaning people used to laugh at the idea that the
buffalo and wild pigeons would ever disappear。 They are gone。
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XXI
ON GOING OUT
The last few days of your stay in the wilderness you will be
consumedly anxious to get out。 It does not matter how much of a savage
you are； how good a time you are having； or how long you have been
away from civilization。 Nor does it mean especially that you are glad to
leave the wilds。 Merely does it come about that you drift unconcernedly
on the stream of days until you approach the brink of departure： then
irresistibly the current hurries you into haste。 The last day of your week's
vacation； the last three of your month's or your summer's or your year's
outing；these comprise the hours in which by a mighty but invisible
transformation your mind forsakes its savagery； epitomizes again the
courses of social evolution； regains the poise and cultivation of the world
of men。 Before that you have been content； yes； and would have gone on
being content for as long as you please until the approach of the limit you
have set for your wandering。
In effect this transformation from the state of savagery to the state of
civilization is very abrupt。 When you leave the towns your clothes and
mind are new。 Only gradually do they take on the color of their
environment； only gradually do the subtle influences of the great forest
steal in on your dulled faculties to flow over them in a tide that rises
imperceptibly。 You glide as gently from the artificial to the natural life as
do the forest shadows from night to day。 But at the other end the affair is
different。 There you awake on the appointed morning in complete
resumption of your old attitude of mind。 The tide of nature has slipped
away from you in the night。
Then you arise and do the most wonderful of your wilderness traveling。
On those days you look back fondly； of them you boast afterwards in
telling what a rapid and enduring voyager you are。 The biggest day's
journey I ever undertook was in just such a case。 We started at four in
the morning through a forest of the early spring…time； where the trees were
glorious overhead； but the walking ankle deep。 On our backs were thirty…
pound burdens。 We walked steadily until three in the afternoon； by
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which time we had covered thirty miles and had arrived at what then
represented civilization to us。 Of the nine who started； two Indians
finished an hour ahead； the half breed； Billy； and I staggered in together；
encouraging each other by words concerning the bottle of beer we were
going to buy； and the five white men never got in at all until after nine
o'clock that night。 Neither thirty miles； nor thirty pounds； nor ankle…
deep slush sounds formidable when considered as abstract and separate
propositions。
In your first glimpse of the civilized peoples your appearance in your
own eyes will undergo the same instantaneous and tremendous revulsion
that has already taken place in your mental sphere。 Heretofore you have
considered yourself as a decently well appointed gentleman of the woods。
Ten to one； in contrast to the voluntary or enforced simplicity of the
professional woodsman you have looked on your little luxuries of carved
leather hat…band； fancy knife sheath； pearl…handled six…shooter； or khaki
breeches as giving you slightly the air of a forest exquisite。 But on that
depot platform or in presence of that staring group on the steps of the
Pullman； you suddenly discover yourself to be nothing less than a disgrace
to your bringing up。 Nothing could be more evident than the flop of your
hat； the faded； dusty appearance of your blue shirt； the beautiful black
polish of your khakis； the grime of your knuckles； the three days' beard of
your face。 If you are a fool； you worry about it。 If you are a sensible
man； you do not mind；and you prepare for amusing adventures。
The realization of your external unworthiness； however； brings to your
heart the desire for a hot bath in a porcelain tub。 You gloat over the
thought； and when the dream comes to be a reality； you soak away in as
voluptuous a pleasure as ever falls to the lot of man to enjoy。 Then you
shave； and array yourself minutely and preciously in clean clothes from
head to toe； building up a new respectability； and you leave scornfully in a
heap your camping garments。 They have heretofore seemed clean； but
now you would not touch them； no； not even to put them in the soiled…
clothes basket； let your feminines rave as they may。 And for at least two
days you prove an almost childish delight in mere raiment。
But before you can reach this blissful stage you have still to order and
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enjoy your first civilized dinner。 It tastes good； not because your camp
dinners have palled on you； but because your transformation demands its
proper aliment。 Fortunate indeed you are if you step directly to a
transcontinental train or into the streets of a modern town。 Otherwise the
transition through the small…hotel provender is apt to offer too little
contrast for the fullest enjoyment。 But aboard the dining…car or in the
cafe you will gather to yourself such ill…assorted succulence as thick； juicy
beefsteaks； and creamed macaroni； and sweet potatoes； and pie； and red
wine； and real cigars and other things。
In their acquisition your appearance will tell against you。 We were
once watched anxiously by a nervous female head waiter who at last
mustered up courage enough to inform me that guests were n
