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test luxury at an English inn is one's tea�察�one's fire�察�and one's book。  Such an arrangement is not practicable at an American hotel。  Tea�察�like breakfast�察�is a great meal�察�at which meat should be eaten�察�generally with the addition of much jelly�察�jam�察�and sweet preserve�察�but no person delays over his teacup。  I love to have my teacup emptied and filled with gradual pauses�察�so that time for oblivion may accrue�察�and no exact record be taken。  No such meal is known at American hotels。  It is possible to hire a separate room�察�and have one's meals served in it�察�but in doing so a man runs counter to all the institutions of the country�察�and a woman does so equally。  A stranger does not wish to be viewed askance by all around him�察�and the rule which holds that men at Rome should do as Romans do�察�if true anywhere�察�is true in America。  Therefore I say that in an American inn one can never do as one pleases。 In what I have here said I do not intend to speak of hotels in the largest cities�察�such as Boston or New York。  At them meals are served in the public room separately�察�and pretty nearly at any or at all hours of the day�察�but at them also the attendant stands over the unfortunate eater and drives him。  The guest feels that he is controlled by laws adapted to the usages of the Medes and Persians。 He is not the master on the occasion�察�but the slavea slave well treated�察�and fattened up to the full endurance of humanity�察�but yet a slave。 From Gorham we went on to Island Pond�察�a station on the same Canada Trunk Railway�察�on a Saturday evening�察�and were forced by the circumstances of the line to pass a melancholy Sunday at the place。 The cars do not run on Sundays�察�and run but once a day on other days over the whole line�察�so that�察�in fact�察�the impediment to traveling spreads over two days。  Island Pond is a lake with an island in it�察�and the place which has taken the name is a small village�察�about ten years old�察�standing in the midst of uncut forests�察�and has been created by the railway。  In ten years more there will no doubt be a spreading town at Island Pond�察�the forests will recede�察�and men�察�rushing out from the crowded cities�察�will find here food�察�and space�察�and wealth。  For myself�察�I never remain long in such a spot without feeling thankful that it has not been my mission to be a pioneer of civilization。 The farther that I got away from Boston the less strong did I find the feeling of anger against England。  There�察�as I have said before�察�there was a bitter animosity against the mother country in that she had shown no open sympathy with the North。  In Maine and New Hampshire I did not find this to be the case to any violent degree。  Men spoke of the war as openly as they did at Boston�察�and�察�in speaking to me�察�generally connected England with the subject。 But they did so simply to ask questions as to England's policy。 What will she do for cotton when her operatives are really pressed�拭�Will she break the blockade�拭 �Will she insist on a right to trade with Charleston and new Orleans�拭 �I always answered that she would insist on no such right�察�if that right were denied to others and the denial enforced。  England�察�I took upon myself to say�察�would not break a veritable blockade�察�let her be driven to what shifts she might in providing for her operatives。  ;Ah� �that's what we fear�察─�a very stanch patriot said to me�察�if words may be taken as a proof of stauchness。  ;If England allies herself with the Southerners�察�all our trouble is for nothing。;  It was impossible not to feel that all that was said was complimentary to England。  It is her sympathy that the Northern men desire�察�to her co´operation that they would willingly trust�察�on her honesty that they would choose to depend。  It is the same feeling whether it shows itself in anger or in curiosity。  An American�察�whether he be embarked in politics�察�in literature�察�or in commerce�察�desires English admiration�察�English appreciation of his energy�察�and English encouragement。  The anger of Boston is but a sign of its affectionate friendliness。  What feeling is so hot as that of a friend when his dearest friend refuses to share his quarrel or to sympathize in his wrongs�  �To my thinking�察�the men of Boston are wrong and unreasonable in their anger�察�but were I a man of Boston�察�I should be as wrong and as unreasonable as any of them。  All that�察�however�察�will come right。 I will not believe it possible that there should in very truth be a quarrel between England and the Northern States。 In the guidance of those who are not quite au fait at the details of American government�察�I will here in a few words describe the outlines of State government as it is arranged in New Hampshire。 The States�察�in this respect�察�are not all alike�察�the modes of election of their officers�察�and periods of service�察�being different。  Even the franchise is different in different States。 Universal suffrage is not the rule throughout the United States�察�though it is�察�I believe�察�very generally thought in England that such is the fact。  I need hardly say that the laws in the different States may be as various as the different legislatures may choose to make them。 In New Hampshire universal suffrage does prevail�察�which means that any man may vote who lives in the State�察�supports himself�察�and assists to support the poor by means of poor rates。  A governor of the State is elected for one year only�察�but it is customary�察�or at any rate not uncustomary�察�to re´elect him for a second year。  His salary is a thousand dollars a year�察�or two hundred pounds。  It must be presumed�察�therefore�察�that glory�察�and not money�察�is his object。  To him is appended a Council�察�by whose opinions he must in a great degree be guided。  His functions are to the State what those of the President are to the country�察�and�察�for the short period of his reign�察�he is as it were a Prime Minister of the State�察�with certain very limited regal attributes。  He�察�however�察�by no means enjoys the regal attribute of doing no wrong。  In every State there is an Assembly�察�consisting of two houses of elected representativesthe Senate�察�or upper house�察�and the House of Representatives so called。  In New Hampshire�察�this Assembly or Parliament is styled The General Court of New Hampshire。  It sits annually�察�whereas the legislature in many States sits only every other year。  Both houses are re´elected every year。  This Assembly passes laws with all the power vested in our Parliament�察�but such laws apply of course only to the State in question。  The Governor of the State has a veto on all bills passed by the two houses。 But�察�after receipt of his veto�察�any bill so stopped by the Governor can be passed by a majority of two´thirds in each house。  The General Court usually sits for about ten weeks。  There are in the State eight judgesthree supreme�察�who sit at Concord�察�the capital�察�as a court of appeal both in civil and criminal matters�察�and then five lesser judges�察�who go circuit through the State。  The salaries of these lesser judges do not exceed from 250 pounds to 300 pounds a year�察�but they are�察�I believe�察�allowed to practice as lawyers in any counties except those in which they sit as judgesbeing guided�察�in this respect�察�by the same law as that which regulates the work of assistant barristers in Ireland。  The assistant barristers in Ireland are attached to the counties as judges at Quarter Sessions�察�but they practice�察�or may practice�察�as advocates in all counties except that to which they are so attached。  The judges in New Hampshire are appointed by the Governor�察�with the assistance of his Council。  No judge in New Hampshire can hold his seat after he has reached seventy years of age。 So much at the present moment with reference to the government of New Hampshire。

CHAPTER IV。 LOWER CANADA。

The Grand Trunk Railway runs directly from Portland to Montreal�察�which latter town is�察�in fact�察�the capital of Canada�察�though it never has been so exclusively�察�and�察�as it seems�察�never is to be so as regards authority�察�government�察�and official name。  In such matters�察�authority and government often say one thing while commerce says another�察�but commerce always has the best of it and wins the game�察�whatever government may decree。  Albany�察�in this way�察�is the capital of the State of New York�察�as authorized by the State government�察�but New York has made herself the capital of America�察�and will remain so。  So also Montreal has made herself the capital of Canada。  The Grand Trunk Railway runs from Portland to Montreal�察�but there is a branch from Richmond�察�a township within the limits of Canada�察�to Quebec�察�so that travelers to Quebec�察�as we were�察�are not obliged to reach that place via Montreal。 Quebec is the present seat of Canadian government�察�its turn for that honor having come round some two years ago�察�but it is about to be deserted in favor of Ottawa�察�a town which is�察�in fact�察�still to be built on the river of that name。  The public edifices are�察�however�察�in a state of forwardness�察�and if all goes well�察�the Governor�察�the two Councils�察�and the House of Representatives will be there before two years are over�察�whether there be any town to receive them or no。  Who can think of Ottawa without bidding his brothers to row�察�and reminding them that the stream runs fast�察�that the rapids are near and the daylight past�拭 �I asked�察�as a matter of course�察�whether Quebec was much disgusted at the proposed change�察�and I was told that the feeling was not now very strong。  Had it been determined to make Montreal the permanent seat of government�察�Quebec and Toronto would both have been up in arms。 I must confess that�察�in going from the States into Canada�察�an Englishman is struck by the feeling that he is going from a richer country into one that is poorer�察�and from a greater country into one that is less。  An Englishman going from a foreign land into a land which is in one sense his own�察�of course finds much in the change to gratify him。  He is able to speak as the master�察�instead of speaking as the visitor。  His tongue becomes more free�察�and he is able to fall back to his national habits and national expressions。  He no longer feels that he is admitted on sufferance�察�or that he must be careful to respect laws which he does not quite understand。  This feeling was naturally strong in an Englishman in passing from the States into Canada at the time of

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