the malay archipelago-1-第26部分

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　what　way　the　phenomena　may　possibly　have　been　brought　about。

The　higher　peaks　of　the　Alps；　and　even　of　the　Pyrenees；　contain　a　number　of　plants　absolutely　identical　with　those　of　Lapland；　but　nowhere　found　in　the　intervening　plains。　On　the　summit　of　the　White　Mountains；　in　the　United　States；　every　plant　is　identical　with　species　growing　in　Labrador。　In　these　cases　all　ordinary　means　of　transport　fail。　Most　of　the　plants　have　heavy　seeds；　which　could　not　possibly　be　carried　such　immense　distances　by　the　wind；　and　the　agency　of　birds　in　so　effectually　stocking　these　Alpine　heights　is　equally　out　of　the　question。　The　difficulty　was　so　great；　that　some　naturalists　were　driven　to　believe　that　these　species　were　all　separately　created　twice　over　on　these　distant　peaks。　The　determination　of　a　recent　glacial　epoch；　however；　soon　offered　a　much　more　satisfactory　solution；　and　one　that　is　now　universally　accepted　by　men　of　science。　At　this　period；　when　the　mountains　of　Wales　were　full　of　glaciers；　and　the　mountainous　parts　of　Central　Europe；　and　much　of　America　north　of　the　great　lakes；　were　covered　with　snow　and　ice；　and　had　a　climate　resembling　that　of　Labrador　and　Greenland　at　the　present　day；　an　Arctic　flora　covered　all　these　regions。　As　this　epoch　of　cold　passed　away；　and　the　snowy　mantle　of　the　country；　with　the　glaciers　that　descended　from　every　mountain　summit；　receded　up　their　slopes　and　towards　the　north　pole；　the　plants　receded　also；　always　clinging　as　now　to　the　margins　of　the　perpetual　snow　line。　Thus　it　is　that　the　same　species　are　now　found　on　the　summits　of　the　mountains　of　temperate　Europe　and　America；　and　in　the　barren　north…polar　regions。

But　there　is　another　set　of　facts；　which　help　us　on　another　step　towards　the　case　of　the　Javanese　mountain　flora。　On　the　higher　slopes　of　the　Himalayas；　on　the　tops　of　the　mountains　of　Central　India　and　of　Abyssinia；　a　number　of　plants　occur　which；　though　not　identical　with　those　of　European　mountains；　belong　to　the　same　genera；　and　are　said　by　botanists　to　represent　them；　and　most　of　these　could　not　exist　in　the　warm　intervening　plains。　Mr。　Darwin　believes　that　this　class　of　facts　can　be　explained　in　the　same　way；　for；　during　the　greatest　severity　of　the　glacial　epoch；　temperate　forms　of　plants　will　have　extended　to　the　confines　of　the　tropics；　and　on　its　departure；　will　have　retreated　up　these　southern　mountains；　as　well　as　northward　to　the　plains　and　hills　of　Europe。　But　in　this　case；　the　time　elapsed；　and　the　great　change　of　conditions；　have　allowed　many　of　these　plants　to　become　so　modified　that　we　now　consider　them　to　be　distinct　species。　A　variety　of　other　facts　of　a　similar　nature　have　led　him　to　believe　that　the　depression　of　temperature　was　at　one　time　sufficient　to　allow　a　few　north…temperate　plants　to　cross　the　Equator　（by　the　most　elevated　routes）　and　to　reach　the　Antarctic　regions；　where　they　are　now　found。　The　evidence　on　which　this　belief　rests　will　be　found　in　the　latter　part　of　Chapter　II。　of　the　〃Origin　of　Species〃；　　and；　accepting　it　for　the　present　as　an　hypothesis；　it　enables　us　to　account　for　the　presence　of　a　flora　of　European　type　on　the　volcanoes　of　Java。

It　will；　however；　naturally　be　objected　that　there　is　a　wide　expanse　of　sea　between　Java　and　the　continent；　which　would　have　effectually　prevented　the　immigration　of　temperate　fortes　of　plants　during　the　glacial　epoch。　This　would　undoubtedly　be　a　fatal　objection；　were　there　not　abundant　evidence　to　show　that　Java　has　been　formerly　connected　with　Asia；　and　that　the　union　must　have　occurred　at　about　the　epoch　required。　The　most　striking　proof　of　such　a　junction　is；　that　the　great　Mammalia　of　Java；　the　rhinoceros；　the　tiger；　and　the　Banteng　or　wild　ox；　occur　also　in　Siam　and　Burmah；　and　these　would　certainly　not　have　been　introduced　by　man。　The　Javanese　peacock　and　several　other　birds　are　also　common　to　these　two　countries；　but；　in　the　majority　of　cases；　the　species　are　distinct；　though　closely　allied；　indicating　that　a　considerable　time　（required　for　such　modification）　has　elapsed　since　the　separation；　while　it　has　not　been　so　long　as　to　cause　an　entire　change。　Now　this　exactly　corresponds　with　the　time　we　should　require　since　the　temperate　forms　of　plants　entered　Java。　These　are　now　almost　distinct　species；　but　the　changed　conditions　under　which　they　are　now　forced　to　exist；　and　the　probability　of　some　of　them　having　since　died　out　on　the　continent　of　India；　sufficiently　accounts　for　the　Javanese　species　being　different。

In　my　more　special　pursuits；　I　had　very　little　success　upon　the　mountainowing；　perhaps；　to　the　excessively　unpropitious　weather　and　the　shortness　of　my　stay。　At　from　7；000　to　8；000　feet　elevation；　I　obtained　one　of　almost　lovely　of　the　small　Fruit　pigeons　（Ptilonopus　roseicollis）；　whose　entire　head　and　neck　are　of　an　exquisite　rosy　pink　colour；　contrasting　finely　with　its　otherwise　blue　plumage；　and　on　the　very　summit；　feeding　on　the　ground　among　the　strawberries　that　have　been　planted　there；　I　obtained　a　dull…coloured　thrush；　with　the　form　and　habits　of　a　starling　（Turdus　fumidus）。　Insects　were　almost　entirely　absent；　owing　no　doubt　to　the　extreme　dampness；　and　I　did　not　get　a　single　butterfly　the　whole　trip；　yet　I　feel　sure　that；　during　the　dry　season；　a　week's　residence　on　this　mountain　would　well　repay　the　collector　in　every　department　of　natural　history。

After　my　return　to　Toego；　I　endeavoured　to　find　another　locality　to　collect　in；　and　removed　to　a　coffee…plantation　some　miles　to　the　north；　and　tried　in　succession　higher　and　lower　stations　on　the　mountain；　but；　I　never　succeeded　in　obtaining　insects　in　any　abundance　and　birds　were　far　less　plentiful　than　on　the　Megamendong　Mountan。　The　weather　now　became　more　rainy　than　ever；　and　as　the　wet　season　seemed　to　have　set　in　in　earnest；　I　returned　to　Batavia；　packed　up　and　sent　off　my　collections；　and　left　by　steamer　on　November　1st　for　Banca　and　Sumatra。

CHAPTER　VIII。

SUMATRA。

（NOVEMBER　1861　to　JANUARY　1862。）

The　mail　steamer　from　Batavia　to　Singapore　took　me　to　Muntok　（or　as　on　English　maps；　〃Minto〃）；　the　chief　town　and　port　of　Banca。　Here　I　stayed　a　day　or　two；　until　I　could　obtain　a　boat　to　take　me　across　the　straits；　and　all　the　river　to　Palembang。　A　few　walks　into　the　country　showed　me　that　it　was　very　hilly；　and　full　of　granitic　and　laterite　rocks；　with　a　dry　and　stunted　forest　vegetation；　and　I　could　find　very　few　insects。　A　good…sized　open　sailing…boat　took　me　across　to　the　mouth　of　the　Palembang　river　where；　at　a　fishing　village；　a　rowing…boat　was　hired　to　take　me　up　to　Palembanga　distance　of　nearly　a　hundred　miles　by　water。　Except　when　the　wind　was　strong　and　favourable　we　could　only　proceed　with　the　tide；　and　the　banks　of　the　river　were　generally　flooded　Nipa…swamps；　so　that　the　hours　we　were　obliged　to　lay　at　anchor　passed　very　heavily。　Reaching　Palembang　on　the　8th　of　November；　I　was　lodged　by　the　Doctor；　to　whom　I　had　brought　a　letter　of　introduction；　and　endeavoured　to　ascertain　where　I　could　find　a　good　locality　for　collecting。　Everyone　assured　me　that　I　should　have　to　go　a　very　long　way　further　to　find　any　dry　forest；　for　at　this　season　the　whole　country　for　many　miles　inland　was　flooded。　I　therefore　had　to　stay　a　week　at　Palembang　before　I　could　determine　my　future　movements。

The　city　is　a　large　one；　extending　for　three　or　four　miles　along　a　fine　curve　of　the　river；　which　is　as　wide　as　the　Thames　at　Greenwich。　The　stream　is；　however；　much　narrowed　by　the　houses　which　project　into　it　upon　piles；　and　within　these；　again；　there　is　a　row　of　houses　built　upon　great　bamboo　rafts；　which　are　moored　by　rattan　cables　to　the　shore　or　to　piles；　and　rise　and　fall　with　the　tide。

The　whole　riverfront　on　both　sides　is　chiefly　formed　of　such　houses；　and　they　are　mostly　shops　open　to　the　water；　and　only　raised　a　foot　above　it；　so　that　by　taking　a　small　boat　it　is　easy　to　go　to　market　and　purchase　anything　that　is　to　be　had　in　Palembang。　The　natives　are　true　Malays；　never　building　a　house　on　dry　land　if　they　can　find　water　to　set　it　in；　and　never　going　anywhere　on　foot　if　they　can　reach　the　place　in　a　heat。　A　considerable　portion　of　the　population　are　Chinese　and　Arabs；　who　carry　on　all　the　trade；　while　the　only　Europeans　are　the　civil　and　military　officials　of　the　Dutch　Government。　The　town　is　situated　at　the　head　of　the　delta　of　the　river；　and　between　it　and　the　sea　there　is　very　little　ground　elevated　above　highwater　mark；　while　for　many　miles　further　inland；　the　banks　of　the　main　stream　and　its　numerous　tributaries　are　swampy；　and　in　the　wet　season　hooded　for　a　considerable　distance。　Palembang　is　built　on　a　patch　of　elevated　ground；　a　few　miles　in　extent；　on　the　north　bank　of　the　river。　At　a　spot　about　three　miles　from　the　town　this　turns　into　a　little　hill；　the　top　of　which　is　held　sacred　by　the　natives；　shaded　by　some　fine　trees；and　inhabited　by　a　colony　of　squirrels　which　have　become　half…tame。　On　holding　out　a　few　crumbs　of　bread　or　any　fruit；　they　come　running　down　the　trunk；　take　the　morsel　out　of　your　fingers；　and　dart　away　instantly。　Their　tails　are　carried　erect；　and　the　hair；　which　is　ringed　with　grey；　yellow；　and　brown；　radiates　uniformly　around　them；　and　looks　exceedingly　pretty。　They　have　somewhat　of　the　motions　of

mice；　coming　on　with　little　starts；　and　gazing　intently　with　their　large　black　eyes　before　venturing　to　advance　further。　The　manner　in　which　Malays　often　obtain　the　confidence　of　wild　animals　is　a　very　pleasing　trait　in　their　character；　and　is　due　in　some　degree　to　the　quiet　deliberation　of　their　manners；　and　their　love　of　repose　rather　than　of　action。　The　young　are　obedient　to　the　wishes　of　their　elders；　and　seem　to　feel　none　of　that　propensity　to　mischief　which　European　boys　exhibit。　How　long　would　tame　squirrels　continue　to　inhabit　trees　in　the　vicinity　of　an　English　village；　even　if　close　to　the　church？　They　would　soon　be　pelted　and　driven　away；　or　snared　and　confined　in　a　whirling　cage。　I　have　never　heard　of　these　pretty　animals　being　tamed　in　this　way　in　England；　but　I　should　think　it　might　be　easily　done　in　any　gentleman's　park；　and　they　would　certainly　be　as　pleasing　and　attractive　as　they　would　be　uncommon。

After　many　inquiries；　I　found　that　a　day's　journey　by　water　above　Palembang