the malay archipelago-1-第51部分

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　carries　on　a　general　business。　He　introduced　me　to　Mr。　L。　Duivenboden　（whose　father　had　been　my　friend　at　Ternate）；　who　had　much　taste　for　natural　history；　and　to　Mr。　Neys；　a　native　of　Menado；　but　who　was　educated　at　Calcutta；　and　to　whom　Dutch；　English；　and　Malay　were　equally　mother…tongues。　All　these　gentlemen　showed　me　the　greatest　kindness；　accompanied　me　in　my　earliest　walks　about　the　country；　and　assisted　me　by　every　means　in　their　power。　I　spent　a　week　in　the　town　very　pleasantly；　making　explorations　and　inquiries　after　a　good　collecting　station；　which　I　had　much　difficulty　in　finding；　owing　to　the　wide　cultivation　of　coffee　and　cacao；　which　has　led　to　the　clearing　away　of　the　forests　for　many　miles　around　the　town；　and　over　extensive　districts　far　into　the　interior。

The　little　town　of　Menado　is　one　of　the　prettiest　in　the　East。　It　has　the　appearance　of　a　large　garden　containing　rows　of　rustic　villas　with　broad　paths　between；　forming　streets　generally　at　right　angles　with　each　other。　Good　roads　branch　off　in　several　directions　towards　the　interior；　with　a　succession　of　pretty　cottages；　neat　gardens；　and　thriving　plantations；　interspersed　with　wildernesses　of　fruit　trees。　To　the　west　and　south　the　country　is　mountainous；　with　groups　of　fine　volcanic　peaks　6；000　or　7；000　feet　high；　forming　grand　and　picturesque　backgrounds　to　the　landscape。

The　inhabitants　of　Minahasa　（as　this　part　of　Celebes　is　called）　differ　much　from　those　of　all　the　rest　of　the　island；　and　in　fact　from　any　other　people　in　the　Archipelago。　They　are　of　a　light…　brown　or　yellow　tint；　often　approaching　the　fairness　of　a　European；　of　a　rather　short　stature；　stout　and　well…made；　of　an　open　and　pleasing　countenance；　more　or　less　disfigured　as　age　increases　by　projecting　check…bones；　and　with　the　usual　long；　straight；　jet…black　hair　of　the　Malayan　races。　In　some　of　the　inland　villages　where　they　may　be　supposed　to　be　of　the　purest　race；　both　men　and　women　are　remarkably　handsome；　while　nearer　the　coasts　where　the　purity　of　their　blood　has　been　destroyed　by　the　intermixture　of　other　races；　they　approach　to　the　ordinary　types　of　the　wild　inhabitants　of　the　surrounding　countries。

In　mental　and　moral　characteristics　they　are　also　highly　peculiar。　They　are　remarkably　quiet　and　gentle　in　disposition；　submissive　to　the　authority　of　those　they　consider　their　superiors；　and　easily　induced　to　learn　and　adopt　the　habits　of　civilized　people。　They　are　clever　mechanics；　and　seem　capable　of　acquiring　a　considerable　amount　of　intellectual　education。

Up　to　a　very　recent　period　these　people　were　thorough　savages；　and　there　are　persons　now　living　in　Menado　who　remember　a　state　of　things　identical　with　that　described　by　the　writers　of　the　sixteenth　and　seventeenth　centuries。　The　inhabitants　of　the　several　villages　were　distinct　tribes；　each　under　its　own　chief；　speaking　languages　unintelligible　to　each　other；　and　almost　always　at　war。　They　built　their　houses　elevated　upon　lofty　posts　to　defend　themselves　from　the　attacks　of　their　enemies。　They　were　headhunters　like　the　Dyaks　of　Borneo；　and　were　said　to　be　sometimes　cannibals。　When　a　chief　died；　his　tomb　was　adorned　with　two　fresh　human　heads；　and　if　those　of　enemies　could　not　be　obtained；　slaves　were　killed　for　the　occasion。　Human　skulls　were　the　great　ornaments　of　the　chiefs'　houses。　Strips　of　bark　were　their　only　dress。　The　country　was　a　pathless　wilderness；　with　small　cultivated　patches　of　rice　and　vegetables；　or　clumps　of　fruit…trees；　diversifying　the　otherwise　unbroken　forest。　Their　religion　was　that　naturally　engendered　in　the　undeveloped　human　mind　by　the　contemplation　of　grand　natural　phenomena　and　the　luxuriance　of　tropical　nature。　The　burning　mountain；　the　torrent　and　the　lake；　were　the　abode　of　their　deities；　and　certain　trees　and　birds　were　supposed　to　have　special　influence　over　men's　actions　and　destiny。　They　held　wild　and　exciting　festivals　to　propitiate　these　deities　or　demons；　and　believed　that　men　could　be　changed　by　them　into　animalseither　during　life　or　after　death。

Here　we　have　a　picture　of　true　savage　life；　of　small　isolated　communities　at　war　with　all　around　them；　subject　to　the　wants　and　miseries　of　such　a　condition；　drawing　a　precarious　existence　from　the　luxuriant　soil；　and　living　on；　from　generation　to　generation；　with　no　desire　for　physical　amelioration；　and　no　prospect　of　moral　advancement。

Such　was　their　condition　down　to　the　year　1822；　when　the　coffee…　plant　was　first　introduced；　and　experiments　were　made　as　to　its　cultivation。　It　was　found　to　succeed　admirably　from　fifteen　hundred　feet；　up　to　four　thousand　feet　above　the　sea。　The　chiefs　of　villages　were　induced　to　undertake　its　cultivation。　Seed　and　native　instructors　were　sent　from　Java；　food　was　supplied　to　the　labourers　engaged　in　clearing　and　planting；　a　fixed　price　was　established　at　which　all　coffee　brought　to　the　government　collectors　was　to　be　paid　for；　and　the　village　chiefs　who　now　received　the　titles　of　〃Majors〃　were　to　receive　five　percent　of　the　produce。　After　a　time；　roads　were　made　from　the　port　of　Menado　up　to　the　plateau；　and　smaller　paths　were　cleared　from　village　to　village；　missionaries　settled　in　the　more　populous　districts　and　opened　schools；　and　Chinese　traders　penetrated　to　the　interior　and　supplied　clothing　and　other　luxuries　in　exchange　for　the　money　which　the　sale　of　the　coffee　had　produced。

At　the　same　time；　the　country　was　divided　into　districts；　and　the　system　of　〃Controlleurs；〃　which　had　worked　so　well　in　Java；　was　introduced。　The　〃Controlleur　〃was　a　European；　or　a　native　of　European　blood；　who　was　the　general　superintendent　of　the　cultivation　of　the　district；　the　adviser　of　the　chiefs；　the　protector　of　the　people；　and　the　means　of　communication　between　both　and　the　European　Government。　His　duties　obliged　him　to　visit　every　village　in　succession　once　a　month；　and　to　send　in　a　report　on　their　condition　to　the　Resident。　As　disputes　between　adjacent　villages　were　now　settled　by　appeal　to　a　superior　authority；　the　old　and　inconvenient　semi…fortified　houses　were　disused；　and　under　the　direction　of　the　〃Controlleurs〃　most　of　the　houses　were　rebuilt　on　a　neat　and　uniform　plan。　It　was　this　interesting　district　which　I　was　now　about　to　visit。

Having　decided　on　my　route；　I　started　at　8　A。M。　on　the　22d　of　June。　Mr。　Tower　drove　me　the　first　three　miles　in　his　chaise；　and　Mr。　Neys　accompanied　me　on　horseback　three　miles　further　to　the　village　of　Lotta。　Here　we　met　the　Controlleur　of　the　district　of　Tondano；　who　was　returning　home　from　one　of　his　monthly　tours；　and　who　had　agreed　to　act　as　my　guide　and　companion　on　the　journey。　From　Lotta　we　had　an　almost　continual　ascent　for　six　miles；　which　brought　us　on　to　the　plateau　of　Tondano　at　an　elevation　of　about　2；400　feet。　We　passed　through　three　villages　whose　neatness　and　beauty　quite　astonished　me。　The　main　road；　along　which　all　the　coffee　is　brought　down　from　the　interior　in　carts　drawn　by　buffaloes；　is　always　turned　aside　at　the　entrance　of　a　village；　so　as　to　pass　behind　it；　and　thus　allow　the　village　street　itself　to　be　kept　neat　and　clean。　This　is　bordered　by　neat　hedges　often　formed　entirely　of　rose…trees；　which　are　perpetually　in　blossom。　There　is　a　broad　central　path　and　a　border　of　fine　turf；　which　is　kept　well　swept　and　neatly　cut。　The　houses　are　all　of　wood；　raised　about　six　feet　on　substantial　posts　neatly　painted　blue；　while　the　walls　are　whitewashed。　They　all　have　a　verandah　enclosed　with　a　neat　balustrade；　and　are　generally　surrounded　by　orange…trees　and　flowering　shrubs。　The　surrounding　scenery　is　verdant　and　picturesque。　Coffee　plantations　of　extreme　luxuriance；　noble　palms　and　tree　ferns；　wooded　hills　and　volcanic　peaks；　everywhere　meet　the　eye。　I　had　heard　much　of　the　beauty　of　this　country；　but　the　reality　far　surpassed　my　expectations。

About　one　o'clock　we　reached　Tomohón；　the　chief　place　of　a　district；　having　a　native　chief　now　called　the　〃Major；〃　at　whose　house　we　were　to　dine。　Here　was　a　fresh　surprise　for　me。　The　house　was　large；　airy　and　very　substantially　built　of　hard　native　timber；　squared　and　put　together　in　a　most　workmanlike　manner。　It　was　furnished　in　European　style；　with　handsome　chandelier　lamps；　and　the　chairs　and　tables　all　well　made　by　native　workmen。　As　soon　as　we　entered；　madeira　and　bitters　were　offered　us。　Then　two　handsome　boys　neatly　dressed　in　white；　and　with　smoothly　brushed　jet…black　hair；　handed　us　each　a　basin　of　water　and　a　clean　napkin　on　a　salver。　The　dinner　was　excellent。　Fowls　cooked　in　various　ways；　wild　pig　roasted；　stewed　and　fried；　a　fricassee　of　bats；　potatoes；　rice　and　other　vegetables；　all　served　on　good　china；　with　finger　glasses　and　fine　napkins；　and　abundance　of　good　claret　and　beer；　seemed　to　me　rather　curious　at　the　table　of　a　native　chief　on　the　mountains　of　Celebes。　Our　host　was　dressed　in　a　suit　of　black　with　patent…leather　shoes；　and　really　looked　comfortable　and　almost　gentlemanly　in　them。　He　sat　at　the　head　of　the　table　and　did　the　honours　well；　though　he　did　not　talk　much。　Our　conversation　was　entirely　in　Malay；　as　that　is　the　official　language　here；　and　in　fact　the　mother…tongue　and　only　language　of　the　Controlleur；　who　is　a　native…born　half…breed。　The　Major's　father　who　was　chief　before　him；　wore；　I　was　informed；　a　strip　of　bark　as　his　sole　costume；　and　lived　in　a　rude　but　raised　home　on　lofty　poles；　and　abundantly　decorated　with　human　heads。　Of　course　we　were　expected；　and　our　dinner　was　prepared　in　the　best　style；　but　I　was　assured　that　the　chiefs　all　take　a　pride　in　adopting　European　customs；　and　in　being　able　to　receive　their　visitors　in　a　handsome　manner。

After　dinner　and　coffee；　the　Controlleur　went　on　to　Tondano；　and　I　strolled　about　the　village　waiting　for　my　baggage；　which　was　coming　in　a　bullock…cart；　and　did　not　arrive　until　after　midnight。　Supper　was　very　similar　to　dinner；　and　on　retiring　I　found　an　elegant　little　room　with　a　comfortable　bed；　gauze　curtains　with　blue　and　red　hangings；　and　every　convenience。　Next　morning　at　sunrise　the　thermometer　in　the　verandah　stood　at　69°；　which　I　was　told　is　about　the　usual　lowest　temperature　at　this　place；　2；500　feet　above　the　sea。　I　had　a　good　breakfast　of　coffee；　eggs；　and　fresh　bread　and　butter；　which　I　took　in　the　spacious　verandah　amid