roughing it-第6部分

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top　of　his　house。　　The　building　consisted　of　barns；　stable…room　for
twelve　or　fifteen　horses；　and　a　hut　for　an　eating…room　for　passengers。
This　latter　had　bunks　in　it　for　the　station…keeper　and　a　hostler　or　two。
You　could　rest　your　elbow　on　its　eaves；　and　you　had　to　bend　in　order　to
get　in　at　the　door。　　In　place　of　a　window　there　was　a　square　hole　about
large　enough　for　a　man　to　crawl　through；　but　this　had　no　glass　in　it。
There　was　no　flooring；　but　the　ground　was　packed　hard。　　There　was　no
stove；　but　the　fire…place　served　all　needful　purposes。　　There　were　no
shelves；　no　cupboards；　no　closets。　　In　a　corner　stood　an　open　sack　of
flour；　and　nestling　against　its　base　were　a　couple　of　black　and　venerable
tin　coffee…pots；　a　tin　teapot；　a　little　bag　of　salt；　and　a　side　of　bacon。


By　the　door　of　the　station…keeper's　den；　outside；　was　a　tin　wash…basin；
on　the　ground。　　Near　it　was　a　pail　of　water　and　a　piece　of　yellow　bar
soap；　and　from　the　eaves　hung　a　hoary　blue　woolen　shirt；　significantly
but　this　latter　was　the　station…keeper's　private　towel；　and　only　two
persons　in　all　the　party　might　venture　to　use　itthe　stage…driver　and
the　conductor。　　The　latter　would　not；　from　a　sense　of　decency；　the　former
would　not；　because　did　not　choose　to　encourage　the　advances　of　a　station…
keeper。　　We　had　towelsin　the　valise；　they　might　as　well　have　been　in
Sodom　and　Gomorrah。　　We　（and　the　conductor）　used　our　handkerchiefs；　and
the　driver　his　pantaloons　and　sleeves。　　By　the　door；　inside；　was　fastened
a　small　old…fashioned　looking…glass　frame；　with　two　little　fragments　of
the　original　mirror　lodged　down　in　one　corner　of　it。　　This　arrangement
afforded　a　pleasant　double…barreled　portrait　of　you　when　you　looked　into
it；　with　one　half　of　your　head　set　up　a　couple　of　inches　above　the　other
half。　　From　the　glass　frame　hung　the　half　of　a　comb　by　a　stringbut　if　I
had　to　describe　that　patriarch　or　die；　I　believe　I　would　order　some
sample　coffins。

It　had　come　down　from　Esau　and　Samson；　and　had　been　accumulating　hair
ever　sincealong　with　certain　impurities。　　In　one　corner　of　the　room
stood　three　or　four　rifles　and　muskets；　together　with　horns　and　pouches
of　ammunition。　　The　station…men　wore　pantaloons　of　coarse；　country…woven
stuff；　and　into　the　seat　and　the　inside　of　the　legs　were　sewed　ample
additions　of　buckskin；　to　do　duty　in　place　of　leggings；　when　the　man　rode
horsebackso　the　pants　were　half　dull　blue　and　half　yellow；　and
unspeakably　picturesque。　　The　pants　were　stuffed　into　the　tops　of　high
boots；　the　heels　whereof　were　armed　with　great　Spanish　spurs；　whose
little　iron　clogs　and　chains　jingled　with　every　step。　　The　man　wore　a
huge　beard　and　mustachios；　an　old　slouch　hat；　a　blue　woolen　shirt；　no
suspenders；　no　vest；　no　coatin　a　leathern　sheath　in　his　belt；　a　great
long　〃navy〃　revolver　（slung　on　right　side；　hammer　to　the　front）；　and
projecting　from　his　boot　a　horn…handled　bowie…knife。　　The　furniture　of
the　hut　was　neither　gorgeous　nor　much　in　the　way。　　The　rocking…chairs　and
sofas　were　not　present；　and　never　had　been；　but　they　were　represented　by
two　three…legged　stools；　a　pine…board　bench　four　feet　long；　and　two　empty
candle…boxes。　　The　table　was　a　greasy　board　on　stilts；　and　the　table…
cloth　and　napkins　had　not　comeand　they　were　not　looking　for　them；
either。　　A　battered　tin　platter；　a　knife　and　fork；　and　a　tin　pint　cup；
were　at　each　man's　place；　and　the　driver　had　a　queens…ware　saucer　that
had　seen　better　days。　　Of　course　this　duke　sat　at　the　head　of　the　table。
There　was　one　isolated　piece　of　table　furniture　that　bore　about　it　a
touching　air　of　grandeur　in　misfortune。　　This　was　the　caster。　　It　was
German　silver；　and　crippled　and　rusty；　but　it　was　so　preposterously　out
of　place　there　that　it　was　suggestive　of　a　tattered　exiled　king　among
barbarians；　and　the　majesty　of　its　native　position　compelled　respect　even
in　its　degradation。

There　was　only　one　cruet　left；　and　that　was　a　stopperless；　fly…specked；
broken…necked　thing；　with　two　inches　of　vinegar　in　it；　and　a　dozen
preserved　flies　with　their　heels　up　and　looking　sorry　they　had　invested
there。

The　station…keeper　upended　a　disk　of　last　week's　bread；　of　the　shape　and
size　of　an　old…time　cheese；　and　carved　some　slabs　from　it　which　were　as
good　as　Nicholson　pavement；　and　tenderer。

He　sliced　off　a　piece　of　bacon　for　each　man；　but　only　the　experienced　old
hands　made　out　to　eat　it；　for　it　was　condemned　army　bacon　which　the
United　States　would　not　feed　to　its　soldiers　in　the　forts；　and　the　stage
company　had　bought　it　cheap　for　the　sustenance　of　their　passengers　and
employees。　　We　may　have　found　this　condemned　army　bacon　further　out　on
the　plains　than　the　section　I　am　locating　it　in；　but　we　found　itthere
is　no　gainsaying　that。

Then　he　poured　for　us　a　beverage　which　he　called　〃Slum　gullion；〃　and　it
is　hard　to　think　he　was　not　inspired　when　he　named　it。　　It　really
pretended　to　be　tea；　but　there　was　too　much　dish…rag；　and　sand；　and　old
bacon…rind　in　it　to　deceive　the　intelligent　traveler。

He　had　no　sugar　and　no　milknot　even　a　spoon　to　stir　the　ingredients
with。

We　could　not　eat　the　bread　or　the　meat；　nor　drink　the　〃slumgullion。〃　And
when　I　looked　at　that　melancholy　vinegar…cruet；　I　thought　of　the　anecdote
（a　very；　very　old　one；　even　at　that　day）　of　the　traveler　who　sat　down　to
a　table　which　had　nothing　on　it　but　a　mackerel　and　a　pot　of　mustard。　　He
asked　the　landlord　if　this　was　all。　　The　landlord　said：

〃All！　　Why；　thunder　and　lightning；　I　should　think　there　was　mackerel
enough　there　for　six。〃

〃But　I　don't　like　mackerel。〃

〃Ohthen　help　yourself　to　the　mustard。〃

In　other　days　I　had　considered　it　a　good；　a　very　good；　anecdote；　but
there　was　a　dismal　plausibility　about　it；　here；　that　took　all　the　humor
out　of　it。

Our　breakfast　was　before　us；　but　our　teeth　were　idle。

I　tasted　and　smelt；　and　said　I　would　take　coffee；　I　believed。　　The
station…boss　stopped　dead　still；　and　glared　at　me　speechless。　　At　last；
when　he　came　to；　he　turned　away　and　said；　as　one　who　communes　with
himself　upon　a　matter　too　vast　to　grasp：

〃Coffee！　　Well；　if　that　don't　go　clean　ahead　of　me；　I'm　d…d！〃

We　could　not　eat；　and　there　was　no　conversation　among　the　hostlers　and
herdsmenwe　all　sat　at　the　same　board。　　At　least　there　was　no
conversation　further　than　a　single　hurried　request；　now　and　then；　from
one　employee　to　another。　　It　was　always　in　the　same　form；　and　always
gruffly　friendly。　　Its　western　freshness　and　novelty　startled　me；　at
first；　and　interested　me；　but　it　presently　grew　monotonous；　and　lost　its
charm。　　It　was：

〃Pass　the　bread；　you　son　of　a　skunk！〃　　No；　I　forgetskunk　was　not　the
word；　it　seems　to　me　it　was　still　stronger　than　that；　I　know　it　was；　in
fact；　but　it　is　gone　from　my　memory；　apparently。　　However；　it　is　no
matterprobably　it　was　too　strong　for　print；　anyway。　　It　is　the　landmark
in　my　memory　which　tells　me　where　I　first　encountered　the　vigorous　new
vernacular　of　the　occidental　plains　and　mountains。

We　gave　up　the　breakfast；　and　paid　our　dollar　apiece　and　went　back　to　our
mail…bag　bed　in　the　coach；　and　found　comfort　in　our　pipes。　　Right　here　we
suffered　the　first　diminution　of　our　princely　state。　　We　left　our　six
fine　horses　and　took　six　mules　in　their　place。　　But　they　were　wild
Mexican　fellows；　and　a　man　had　to　stand　at　the　head　of　each　of　them　and
hold　him　fast　while　the　driver　gloved　and　got　himself　ready。　　And　when　at
last　he　grasped　the　reins　and　gave　the　word；　the　men　sprung　suddenly　away
from　the　mules'　heads　and　the　coach　shot　from　the　station　as　if　it　had
issued　from　a　cannon。　　How　the　frantic　animals　did　scamper！　　It　was　a
fierce　and　furious　gallopand　the　gait　never　altered　for　a　moment　till
we　reeled　off　ten　or　twelve　miles　and　swept　up　to　the　next　collection　of
little　station…huts　and　stables。

So　we　flew　along　all　day。　　At　2　P。M。　　the　belt　of　timber　that　fringes　the
North　Platte　and　marks　its　windings　through　the　vast　level　floor　of　the
Plains　came　in　sight。　　At　4　P。M。　　we　crossed　a　branch　of　the　river；　and
at　5　P。M。　　we　crossed　the　Platte　itself；　and　landed　at　Fort　Kearney；
fifty…six　hours　out　from　St。　JoeTHREE　HUNDRED　MILES！

Now　that　was　stage…coaching　on　the　great　overland；　ten　or　twelve　years
ago；　when　perhaps　not　more　than　ten　men　in　America；　all　told；　expected　to
live　to　see　a　railroad　follow　that　route　to　the　Pacific。　　But　the
railroad　is　there；　now；　and　it　pictures　a　thousand　odd　comparisons　and
contrasts　in　my　mind　to　read　the　following　sketch；　in　the　New　York　Times；
of　a　recent　trip　over　almost　the　very　ground　I　have　been　describing。　　I
can　scarcely　comprehend　the　new　state　of　things：

　　　　　〃ACROSS　THE　CONTINENT。

　　　　　〃At　4。20　P。M。；　Sunday；　we　rolled　out　of　the　station　at　Omaha；　and
　　　　　started　westward　on　our　long　jaunt。　　A　couple　of　hours　out；　dinner
　　　　　was　announcedan　〃event〃　to　those　of　us　who　had　yet　to　experience
　　　　　what　it　is　to　eat　in　one　of　Pullman's　hotels　on　wheels；　so；　stepping
　　　　　into　the　car　next　forward　of　our　sleeping　palace；　we　found　ourselves
　　　　　in　the　dining…car。　　It　was　a　revelation　to　us；　that　first　dinner　on
　　　　　Sunday。　　And　though　we　continued　to　dine　for　four　days；　and　had　as
　　　　　many　breakfasts　and　suppers；　our　whole　party　never　ceased　to　admire
　　　　　the　perfection　of　the　arrangements；　and　the　marvelous　results
　　　　　achieved。　　Upon　tables　covered　with　snowy　linen；　and　garnished　with
　　　　　services　of　solid　silver；　Ethiop　waiters；　flitting　about　in　spotless
　　　　　white；　placed　as　by　magic　a　repast　at　which　Delmonico　himself　could
　　　　　have　had　no　occasion　to　blush；　and；　indeed；　in　some　respects　it
　　　　　would　be　hard　for　that　distinguished　chef　to　match　our　menu；　for；　in
　　　　　addition　to　all　that　ordinarily　makes　up　a　first…chop　dinner；　had　we
　　　　　not　our　antelope　steak　（the　gormand　who　has　not　experienced　this
　　　　　bah！　what　does　he　know　of　the　feast　of　fat　things？）　our　delicious
　　　　　mountain…brook　trout；　and　choice　fruits　and　berries；　and　（sauce
　　　　　piquant　and　unpurchasable！）　our　sweet…scented；　appetite…compelling
　　　　　air　of　the　prairies？

　　　　　You　may　depend　upon　it；　we　all　did　justice　to　the　good　things；　and
　　　　　as　we　washed　them　down　with　bumpers　of　sparkling　Krug；　whilst　we
　　　　　sped　along　at　th