the land of footprints-第30部分

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Along　the　way；　every　once　in　a　while；　we　came　upon　people　squatted　down　behind　small　stocks　of　sugarcane；　yams；　bananas；　and　the　like。　With　these　our　boys　did　a　brisk　trade。　Little　paths　led　mysteriously　into　the　jungle。　Down　them　came　more　savages　to　greet　us。　Everybody　was　most　friendly　and　cheerful；　thanks　to　Horne's　personal　influence。　Two　years　before　this　same　lot　had　been　hostile。　From　every　hidden　village　came　the　headmen　or　chiefs。　They　all　wanted　to　shake　hands…the　ordinary　citizen　never　dreamed　of　aspiring　to　that　honour…and　they　all　spat　carefully　into　their　palms　before　they　did　so。　This　all　had　to　be　done　in　passing；　for　ordinary　village　headmen　it　was　beneath　Our　Dignity　to　draw　rein。　Once　only　we　broke　over　this　rule。　That　was　in　the　case　of　an　old　fellow　with　white　hair　who　managed　to　get　so　tangled　up　in　the　shrubbery　that　he　could　not　get　to　us。　He　was　so　frantic　with　disappointment　that　we　made　an　exception　and　waited。

About　three　miles　out；　we　lost　one　of　our　newly　acquired　totos。　Reason：　an　exasperated　parent　who　had　followed　from　Meru　for　the　purpose　of　reclaiming　his　runaway　offspring。　The　latter　was　dragged　off　howling。　Evidently　he；　like　some　of　his　civilized　cousins；　had　〃run　away　to　join　the　circus。〃　As　nearly　as　we　could　get　at　it；　the　rest　of　the　totos；　as　well　as　the　nine　additional　we　picked　up　before　we　quitted　the　jungle；　had　all　come　with　their　parents'　consent。　In　fact；　we　soon　discovered　that　we　could　buy　any　amount　of　good　sound　totos；　not　house　broke　however；　for　an　average　of　half　a　rupee　（16…1/2　cents）　apiece。

The　road　was　very　much　up　and　down　hill　over　the　numerous　ridges　that　star…fish　out　from　Mt。　Kenia。　We　would　climb　down　steep　trails　from　200　to　800　feet　（measured　by　aneroid）；　cross　an　excellent　mountain　stream　of　crystalline　dashing　water；　and　climb　out　again。　The　trails　of　course　had　no　notion　of　easy　grades。　It　was　very　hard　work；　especially　for　men　with　loads；　and　it　would　have　been　impossible　on　account　of　the　heat　were　it　not　for　the　numerous　streams。　On　the　slopes　and　in　the　bottoms　were　patches　of　magnificent　forest；　on　the　crests　was　the　jungle；　and　occasionally　an　outlook　over　extended　views。　The　birds　and　the　strange　tropical　big…leaved　trees　were　a　constant　delight…exotic　and　strange。　Billy　was　in　a　heaven　of　joy；　for　her　specialty　in　Africa　was　plants；　seeds　and　bulbs；　for　her　California　garden。　She　had　syces；　gunbearers　and　tent　boys　all　climbing；　shaking　branches；　and　generally　pawing　about。

This　idiosyncracy　of　Billy's　puzzled　our　boys　hugely。　At　first　they　tried　telling　her　that　everything　was　poisonous；　but　when　that　did　not　work；　they　resigned　themselves　to　their　fate。　In　fact；　some　of　the　most　enterprising　like　Memba　Sasa；　Kitaru；　and；　later；　Kongoni　used　of　their　own　accord　to　hunt　up　and　bring　in　seeds　and　blossoms。　They　did　not　in　the　least　understand　what　it　was　for；　and　it　used　to　puzzle　them　hugely　until　out　of　sheer　pity　for　their　uneasiness；　I　implied　that　the　Memsahib　collected　〃medicine。〃　That　was　rational；　so　the　wrinkled　brow　of　care　was　smoothed。　From　this　botanical　trait；　Billy　got　her　native　name　of　〃Beebee　Kooletta〃…〃The　Lady　Who　Says：　Go　Get　That。〃　For　in　Africa　every　white　man　has　a　name　by　which　he　is　known　among　the　native　people。　If　you　would　get　news　of　your　friends；　you　must　know　their　local　cognomens…their　own　white　man　names　will　not　do　at　all。　For　example；　I　was　called　either　Bwana　Machumwani　or　Bwana　N'goma。　The　former　means　merely　Master　Four…eyes；　referring　to　my　glasses。　The　precise　meaning　of　the　latter　is　a　matter　much　disputed　between　myself　and　Billy。　An　N'goma　is　a　native　dance；　consisting　of　drum　poundings；　chantings；　and　hoppings　around。　Therefore　I　translate　myself　（most　appropriately）　as　the　Master　who　Makes　Merry。　On　the　other　hand；　Billy；　with　true　feminine　indirectness；　insists　that　it　means　〃The　Master　who　Shouts　and　Howls。〃　I　leave　it　to　any　fairminded　reader。

About　the　middle　of　the　morning　we　met　a　Government　runner；　a　proud　youth；　young；　lithe；　with　many　ornaments　and　bangles；　his　red　skin　glistening；　the　long　blade　of　his　spear；　bound　around　with　a　red　strip　to　signify　his　office；　slanting　across　his　shoulder；　his　buffalo　hide　shield　slung　from　it　over　his　back；　the　letter　he　was　bearing　stuck　in　a　cleft　stick　and　carried　proudly　before　him　as　a　priest　carries　a　cross　to　the　heathen…in　the　pictures。　He　was　swinging　along　at　a　brisk　pace；　but　on　seeing　us　drew　up　and　gave　us　a　smart　military　salute。

At　one　point　where　the　path　went　level　and　straight　for　some　distance；　we　were　riding　in　an　absolute　solitude。　Suddenly　from　the　jungle　on　either　side　and　about　fifty　yards　ahead　of　us　leaped　a　dozen　women。　They　were　dressed　in　grass　skirts；　and　carried　long　narrow　wooden　shields　painted　white　and　brown。　These　they　clashed　together；　shrieked　shrilly；　and　charged　down　on　us　at　full　speed。　When　within　a　few　yards　of　our　horses　noses　they　came　to　a　sudden　halt；　once　more　clashed　their　shields；　shrieked；　turned　and　scuttled　away　as　fast　as　their　legs　could　carry　them。　At　a　hundred　yards　they　repeated　the　performance；　and　charged　back　at　us　again。　Thus　advancing　and　retreating；　shrieking　high；　hitting　the　wooden　shields　with　resounding　crash；　they　preceded　our　slow　advance　for　a　half　mile　or　so。　Then　at　some　signal　unperceived　by　us　they　vanished　abruptly　into　the　jungle。　Once　more　we　rode　forward　in　silence　and　in　solitude。　Why　they　did　it　I　could　not　say。

Of　this　tissue　were　our　days　made。　At　noon　our　boys　plucked　us　each　two　or　three　banana　leaves　which　they　spread　down　for　us　to　lie　on。　Then　we　dozed　through　the　hot　hours　in　great　comfort；　occasionally　waking　to　blue　sky　through　green　trees；　or　to　peer　idly　into　the　tangled　jungle。　At　two　o'clock　or　a　little　later　we　would　arouse　ourselves　reluctantly　and　move　on。　The　safari　we　had　dimly　heard　passing　us　an　hour　before。　In　this　country　of　the　direct　track　we　did　not　attempt　to　accompany　our　men。

The　end　of　the　day's　march　found　us　in　a　little　clearing　where　we　could　pitch　camp。　Generally　this　was　atop　a　ridge；　so　that　the　boys　had　some　distance　to　carry　water；　but　that　disadvantage　was　outweighed　by　the　cleared　space。　Sometimes　we　found　ourselves　hemmed　in　by　a　wall　of　jungle。　Again　we　enjoyed　a　broad　outlook。　One　such　in　especial　took　in　the　magnificent；　splintered；　snow…capped　peak　of　Kenia　on　the　right；　a　tremendous　gorge　and　rolling　forested　mountains　straight　ahead；　and　a　great　drop　to　a　plain　with　other　and　distant　mountains　to　the　left。　It　was　as　fine　a　panoramic　view　as　one　could　imagine。

Our　tents　pitched；　and　ourselves　washed　and　refreshed；　we　gave　audience　to　the　resident　chief；　who　had　probably　been　waiting。　With　this　potentate　we　conversed　affably；　after　the　usual　expectoratorial　ceremonies。　Billy；　being　a　mere　woman；　did　not　always　come　in　for　this；　but　nevertheless　she　maintained　what　she　called　her　〃quarantine　gloves；〃　and　kept　them　very　handy。　We　had　standing　orders　with　our　boys　for　basins　of　hot　water　to　be　waiting　always　behind　our　tents。　After　the　usual　polite　exchanges　we　informed　the　chief　of　our　needs…firewood；　perhaps；　milk；　a　sheep　or　the　like。　These　he　furnished。　When　we　left　we　made　him　a　present　of　a　few　beads；　a　knife；　a　blanket　or　such　according　to　the　value　of　his　contribution。

To　me　these　encounters　were　some　of　the　most　interesting　of　our　many　experiences；　for　each　man　differed　radically　from　every　other　in　his　conceptions　of　ceremony；　in　his　ideas；　and　in　his　methods。　Our　coming　was　a　good　deal　of　an　event；　always；　and　each　chief；　according　to　his　temperament　and　training；　tried　to　do　things　up　properly。　And　in　that　attempt　certain　basic　traits　of　human　nature　showed　in　the　very　strongest　relief。　Thus　there　are　three　points　of　view　to　take　in　running　any　spectacle：　that　of　the　star　performer；　the　stage　manager；　or　the　truly　artistic。　We　encountered　well…marked　specimens　of　each。　I　will　tell　you　about　them。

The　star　performer　knew　his　stagecraft　thoroughly；　and　in　the　exposition　of　his　knowledge　he　showed　incidentally　how　truly　basic　are　the　principles　of　stagecraft　anywhere。

We　were　seated　under　a　tree　near　the　banks　of　a　stream　eating　our　lunch。　Before　us　appeared　two　tall　and　slender　youths；　wreathed　in　smiles；　engaging；　and　most　attentive　to　the　small　niceties　of　courtesy。　We　returned　their　greeting　from　our　recumbent　positions；　whereupon　they　made　preparation　to　squat　down　beside　us。

〃Are　you　sultans？〃　we　demanded　sternly；　〃that　you　attempt　to　sit　in　Our　Presence；〃　and　we　lazily　kicked　the　nearest。

Not　at　all　abashed；　but　favourably　impressed　with　our　transcendent　importance…as　we　intended…they　leaned　gracefully　on　their　spears　and　entered　into　conversation。　After　a　few　trifles　of　airy　persiflage　they　got　down　to　business。

〃This；〃　said　they；　indicating　the　tiny　flat；　〃is　the　most　beautiful　place　to　camp　in　all　the　mountains。〃

We　doubted　it。

〃Here　is　excellent　water。〃

We　agreed　to　that。

〃And　there　is　no　more　water　for　a　journey。〃

〃You　are　liars；〃　we　observed　politely。

〃And　near　is　the　village　of　our　chief；　who　is　a　great　warrior；　and　will　bring　you　many　presents；　the　greatest　man　in　these　parts。〃

〃Now　you're　getting　to　it；〃　we　observed　in　English；　〃you　want　trade。〃　Then　in　Swahili；　〃We　shall　march　two　hours　longer。〃

After　a　few　polite　phrases　they　went　away。　We　finished　lunch；　remounted；　and　rode　up　the　trail。　At　the　edge　of　the　canyon　we　came　to　a　wide　clearing；　at　the　farther　side　of　which　was　evidently　the　village　in　question。　But　the　merry　villagers；　down　to　the　last　toro；　were　drawn　up　at　the　edge　of　the　track　in　a　double　line　through　which　we　rode。　They　were　very　wealthy　savages；　and　wore　it　all。　Bright　neck；　arm；　and　leg　ornaments；　yards　and　yards　of　cowry　shells　in　strings；　blue　beads　of　all　sizes　（blue　beads　were　evidently　〃in〃）；　odd　scraps　and　shapes　of　embroidered　skins；　clean　shaves　and　a　beautiful　polish　characterized　this　holiday　gathering。　We　made　our　royal　progress　between　the　serried　ranks。　About　eight　or　ten　seconds　after　we　had　passed　the　last　villager…just　the　proper　dramatic　pause；　you　observe…the　bushes　parted　and　a　splendid；　straight；　springy　young　man　came　into　view　and　stepped　smilingly　across　the　space　that　separated　us。　And　about　eight　or　ten　seconds　after