elizabethpeters.thegoldenone-第90部分

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rs　of　Luxor　Temple　and　the　minaret　of　the　mosque。　The　British　flag　would　have　been　flying　instead　of　the　red；　white；　and　black　of　Egypt。　Tour　boats　certainly；　though　perhaps　not　as　many；　and　the　office　of　Thomas　Cook　at　the　end　of　the　curved　arcade　on　the　first　level；　where　it　has　been　for　over　a　century。
　　
　The　newspaper　that　is　delivered　most　mornings　is　The　Egyptian　Gazette　…　gives　me　a　kick　to　be　reading　the　same　paper　the　Emersons　read　back　in　1914。　Admittedly　the　service　is　erratic；　energetic　attendants　keep　taking　things　like　glasses　and　laundry　lists　away；　and　never　bring　them　back。　（In　fact　most　people　don't　stay　longer　than　a　few　days；　my　two…week　stays　throw　everybody　off　base。　They　look　astonished　every　morning　to　see　me　still　there。）　
　　
　The　plane　left　an　hour　and　a　half　late。　
　　
　Cairo。　Arrived　at　the　Mena　House　Hotel　（where　Amelia　and　Emerson　and　Ramses　dined　with　Howard　Carter　before　the　Master　Criminal　stole　Ramses　from　off　the　top　of　the　Great　Pyramid）　at　about　eight　（Giza　is　a　long　way　from　Heliopolis）　to　find　I　had　been　upgraded　to　the　Churchill　suite。　This　place　must　be　seen　to　be　believed。　Takes　five　minutes　to　walk　from　the　living　room　to　the　bedroom；　through　dining　and　dressing　rooms。　The　terrace　is　about　the　size　of　my　whole　downstairs　at　home；　with　the　Great　Pyramid　looming。　Bougainvillea　in　pots；　including　the　white　one　I　so　admire。　Over　the　living　room　couch　is　a　huge　circular　mirror；　the　head　of　the　bed　is　an　equally　immense　gilded　sunburst　that　reaches　to　the　ceiling。　Anything　made　of　wood　is　carved；　lamps　are　antique　pierced　brass；　antique　oriental　rugs　are　laid　over　wall…to…wall　carpeting。　Bowls　of　red　roses　and　baby's　breath　in　every　room；　plus　huge　arrangements　of　glads；　etc；　two　plates　of　sweeties　and　fancy　chocs；　fruit　bowl。　The　fittings　in　the　bathrooms　（one　is　really　only　a　powder　room）　are　gilded；　swans　and　stuff。　Marble　floor　and　surrounds。　I　seem　to　have　a　personal　butler；　or　so　his　card　describes　him。　It's　pretty　heady　stuff　for　a　girl　who　grew　up　in　a　small　town　in　the　Midwest。
　　
　Dec。　27。　It　was　very　foggy　this　a。m。　Strange　how　guilty　one　feels　about　loafing。　I　swore　I'd　take　it　easy　today　but　it　has　been　something　of　an　effort　to　stretch　out　on　a　lounge　chair　on　the　terrace　and　just　lie　there。　（I　think　I'm　getting　the　hang　of　it；　though。）　I　can　see　the　Great　Pyramid　from　where　I　recline。　Twelve　noon　and　it　is　still　foggy；　the　Great　Pyramid　remains　a　featureless　silhouette；　gray　blue　against　a　pale　sky。　A　row　of　tour　busses　at　its　base。　There　is　a　yellow　canopy　over　me　and　birds　are　flitting　in　and　out。　Every　room　on　this　side　has　a　balcony；　dark　carved　wood　and　pleasantly　asymmetrical。　This　is　the　〃Palace；〃　the　old　part；　which　must　look　from　the　outside　much　as　it　did　in　A's　day。
　　
　Dec。　28。　The　Expedition　arrived　last　evening；　but　I　didn't　get　a　chance　to　greet　them　since　they　didn't　e　into　the　lobby　of　the　Palace　and　I　was；　er　。　。　。　in　the　bar　with　several　friends　who　had　dropped　by。　This　a。m。　they　went　to　Giza。　Reclining　on　my　elegant　terrace；　I　watched　the　buses　roll　up　the　hill；　starting　before　eight。　Dozens　of　them。　It　was　understood　that　I　wouldn't　acpany　the　group　on　all　their　trips；　by　the　time　I　leave　Egypt　I　will　have　been　away　for　a　solid　month；　and　I　am　forcing　myself　to　take　it　slow。　I　am　now　sitting　on　a　balustrade　outside　the　hotel　waiting　for　my　friends　Salima　and　Nick。　
　　
　Later。　A　super　day。　We　went　to　Kerdasa；　a　suburb　a　few　miles　north；　noted　for　its　fine　weavers。　Many　shops　have　been　replaced　by　more　modern　establishments　selling　galabeeyahs　and　the　inevitable　t…shirts；　but　we　found　one　place　（after　making　a　few　minor　purchases　elsewhere）　that　was　great。　The　owner　had　the　jolliest　laugh。　Listening　to　Salima　and　the　owner　bargain　in　Arabic　was　wonderful；　at　one　point　she　lowered　her　hand；　indicating　that　the　price　was　too　high；　whereupon　the　man　instantly　squatted。　So　did　Salima。　Big　whoops　of　laughter　from　everybody。　
　　
　He　had　nice　woven　stuff；　beautiful　rugs　and　some　sensationally　gaudy　gowns　and　capes。　Lots　of　gold。　I　like　lots　of　gold。　Bought　two　genuine　black　dresses　like　the　ones　I　had　seen　proper　Egyptian　ladies　wearing　…　was　told　later　that　they　are　Nubian；　but　I　saw　them　in　Luxor　and　elsewhere。　They　have　long　sleeves　and　a　yoke；　embroidered　or　trimmed；　from　which　the　gown　hangs；　with　a　flounce　at　the　bottom。　Both　fit　perfectly；　since　I　am　the　same　shape　as　many　Egyptian　ladies　…　round　and　short。　The　dresses　are　old；　charming；　and　probably　very　dirty。
　　
　When　the　bargaining　was　pleted　the　jolly　chap　wound　round　me　a　lovely　woven　scarf　I　had　rejected　…　a　present。　（This　is　often　done。）　I　thought　the　overall　price　was　dirt　cheap；　but　I　suppose　it　represented　a　good　day's　take。　Foreign　tourists　don't　e　here　often。　They　were　intrigued　by　my　interest　in　the　genooine　dresses。　One　middle…aged　lady　in　a　similar　frock　and　a　close…fitting　black　headcloth　（I　haven't　seen　a　face　veil　since　I　got　here；　but　all　except　〃mod〃　city　ladies　wear　the　headcloth）　darted　out　and　came　back　with　another　…　maybe　she　took　it　out　of　her　closet；　or　her　mother's。
　　
　Then　on　to　Abu　Roash；　for　a　day　that　bined　frivolity　（shopping）　and　Egyptology　in　exactly　the　right　balance。　The　site　is　about　five　miles　north　of　Giza；　the　northernmost　of　the　pyramid　sites。　We　bounced　off　into　the　desert；　along　bumpy　tracks；　back　and　forth　and　around　and　around。　If　I　were　only　sixty　again　we　could　have　taken　a　shorter　route；　climbing　up　the　escarpment；　but　my　dear　buddies　didn't　want　to　send　me　home　in　a　cast　or　with　terminal　shortness　of　breath；　so　we　finally　found　ourselves　on　top；　right　at　the　base　of　the　pyramid。　I　had　never　been　here　before。　The　archaeologists　（French…Swiss）　weren't　working；　so　we　had　the　place　to　ourselves。　The　pyramid；　of　which　most　is　gone；　belonged　to　Djedefre；　Khufu's　son　and　successor。　Why　he　moved　here　nobody　knows；　theories　of　dynastic　infighting　and　religious　differences　are　only　speculation。　Maybe　he　just　liked　the　view。　Or　didn't　want　to　put　his　little　bitty　pyramid　next　to　dad's　great　monument。　It's　very　high　up　and　a　long　way　from　the　river。　The　causeway；　whose　line　can　be　seen；　but　of　which　nothing　remains；　must　have　been　very　long　and　steep。　Went　halfway　down　the　shaft　to　the　burial　chamber；　which　now　lies　open　and　exposed；　since　the　greater　part　of　the　superstructure　has　been　quarried　away。　Had　I　been　sixty　again　I'd　have　gone　all　the　way　down；　but　it　was　steep　and　a　bit　slippery　from　there　on。　
　　
　We　walked　round　the　structure　and　then　I　managed　to　get　to　the　top；　with　a　lot　of　help　from　my　friends。　We　had　a　picnic　lunch　atop　the　〃pyramid〃　and　then　headed　back；　since　I　had　to　clean　up　for　my　first　meeting　with　the　Expedition　members；　drinks　and　dinner　at　one　of　the　Mena　House's　excellent　restaurants。　I　went　round　from　table　to　table；　trying　to　say　a　few　words　to　everyone。　It　will　take　me　awhile　to　get　to　know　them　all；　though　there　were　a　few　old　friends　among　them。
　　
　Dec。　30。　I　am　fading；　Egypt；　fading。　I　am　back　in　Luxor；　but　can't　remember　how　I　got　here。　I　must　have　arrived　yesterday。　When　I　got　to　the　dear　old　Winter　Palace　I　found　Dennis　and　Joel　awaiting　me；　as　well　as　Bill　and　Nancy　…　who　were　wondering　if　I'd　get　there　in　time　to　make　my　second　appearance　at　five　that　evening。　I　made　it。　Bill　does　things　very　elegantly；　the　reception　was　in　the　lovely　old　Victorian　〃tearoom〃　of　the　Winter　Palace；　where　I　circulated　some　more　and　had　nice　chats　with　people。　Dinner　in　the　fancy　restaurant。
　　
　Dec。　31。　Dennis　and　Joel　and　I　were　to　meet　Petty　and　the　group　at　Deir　el　Bahri　at　one。　We　left　the　hotel　about　ten　and　took　the　ferry　across。　I　like　the　ferry　…　it's　more　than　a　bit　grubby　and　more　than　a　bit　crowded；　but　there　are　no　eight…inch　gangplanks！　
　　
　Stopped　by　Medinet　Habu；　where　the　Epigraphic　Survey　works。　The　manager　of　the　restaurant　across　the　street　from　the　temple　is　an　old　buddy；　we've　had　many　a　cup　of　tea　and　coke　and　several　good　meals　there。　He　insisted　on　giving　us　a　farewell　cup　of　tea。　Then　we　went　on　to　Deir　el　Medina；　where　the　boys　started　up　the　long　slope　to　the　path　that　leads　to　the　Valley　of　the　Kings。　It's　steep；　but　not　precipitous　…　just　too　long。　Steps　have　been　built；　but　everybody　says　they　are　harder　on　the　legs　than　just　climbing。　Some　day　I　may　make　it；　but　I　am　saving　myself　for　the　Expedition。　
　　
　Ali；　our　driver；　and　I　went　on　to　Deir　el　Bahri　after　a　brief　stop　at　the　Bedouin　shop　near　the　colossi。　It's　owned　by　Ali's　daddy。　Everybody　on　the　West　Bank　is　related　to　everybody　else。　After　browsing　a　bit；　on　to　Deir　el　Bahri；　where　I　visited　the　restroom　（someday　I　must　write　an　article　on　Egyptian　toilets）。　It's　in　a　building　that　was　the　old　Cook's　rest　house；　I　do　hope　they　will　restore　it　one　day；　since　it's　a　historic　building　and　was　well　known　to　Amelia　and　Emerson。
　　
　Before　long　Ali　let　out　a　shout　and　pointed；　and　there　they　were；　descending　after　the　hike　across　the　hill。　The　walk　takes　about　an　hour。　ing　down　looks　trickier　than　going　up；　if　not　as　hard　on　the　lungs。　Certain　slopes　are　fairly　steep；　with　only　pebbles　and　debris　underfoot。
　　
　There　are　three　terraces　at　Deir　el　Bahri；　Hatshepsut's　lovely　temple。　The　lower　two　are　open　to　the　public；　but　the　third　is　still　being　reconstructed。　Bill　had　gotten　permission　for　some　of　us　to　swagger　past　the　barrier　and　go　up　all　the　way。　They　have　done　a　lot　since　I　was　there　two　years　ago　…　more　of　the　Osiride　colossi　of　Hatshepsut　in　place；　some　of　the　paving　laid；　some　of　the　little　shrines　nicely　cleaned。　Much　Egyptological　gossip；　then　we　went　down　and　found　Ali　and　dropped　Bill　and　Nancy　at　the　taftish　（checkpoint）　before　stopping　at　the　shop；　where　I　bought　a　few　little　things。　
　　
　I　was　a　mess　by　then；　hair　all　over　the　place；　but　managed　to　tidy　up　before　Dennis　and　Joel　arrived　for　our　last　sunset　ritual　…　watching　the　sun　go　down　from　my　balcony　while　sipping　various　beverages。　They　went　away　to　dress　and　I　slipped　into　my　extravagant；　ostentatious；　beaded　robe　from　〃Miss　Egypt；〃　in　which　I　daresay　I　looked　rather　like　a　Japanese　pagoda；　but　who　cares。　The　boys　called　for　me；　elegant　in　tux　and　dark　suit；　and　we　swept　down　the　grand　staircase　of　the　Old　Winter　Palace　in　fine　style。　Cab　t