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essays and lectures-及21何蛍

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beautiful thing。  The mark of all good art is not that the thing

done is done exactly or finely�察�for machinery may do as much�察�but

that it is worked out with the head and the workman's heart。  I

cannot impress the point too frequently that beautiful and rational

designs are necessary in all work。  I did not imagine�察�until I went

into some of your simpler cities�察�that there was so much bad work

done。  I found�察�where I went�察�bad wall´papers horribly designed��

and coloured carpets�察�and that old offender the horse´hair sofa��

whose stolid look of indifference is always so depressing。  I found

meaningless chandeliers and machine´made furniture�察�generally of

rosewood�察�which creaked dismally under the weight of the ubiquitous

interviewer。  I came across the small iron stove which they always

persist in decorating with machine´made ornaments�察�and which is as

great a bore as a wet day or any other particularly dreadful

institution。  When unusual extravagance was indulged in�察�it was

garnished with two funeral urns。



It must always be remembered that what is well and carefully made

by an honest workman�察�after a rational design�察�increases in beauty

and value as the years go on。  The old furniture brought over by

the Pilgrims�察�two hundred years ago�察�which I saw in New England�察�is

just as good and as beautiful to´day as it was when it first came

here。  Now�察�what you must do is to bring artists and handicraftsmen

together。  Handicraftsmen cannot live�察�certainly cannot thrive��

without such companionship。  Separate these two and you rob art of

all spiritual motive。



Having done this�察�you must place your workman in the midst of

beautiful surroundings。  The artist is not dependent on the visible

and the tangible。  He has his visions and his dreams to feed on。

But the workman must see lovely forms as he goes to his work in the

morning and returns at eventide。  And�察�in connection with this�察�I

want to assure you that noble and beautiful designs are never the

result of idle fancy or purposeless day´dreaming。  They come only

as the accumulation of habits of long and delightful observation。

And yet such things may not be taught。  Right ideas concerning them

can certainly be obtained only by those who have been accustomed to

rooms that are beautiful and colours that are satisfying。



Perhaps one of the most difficult things for us to do is to choose

a notable and joyous dress for men。  There would be more joy in

life if we were to accustom ourselves to use all the beautiful

colours we can in fashioning our own clothes。  The dress of the

future�察�I think�察�will use drapery to a great extent and will abound

with joyous colour。  At present we have lost all nobility of dress

and�察�in doing so�察�have almost annihilated the modern sculptor。

And�察�in looking around at the figures which adorn our parks�察�one

could almost wish that we had completely killed the noble art。  To

see the frock´coat of the drawing´room done in bronze�察�or the

double waistcoat perpetuated in marble�察�adds a new horror to death。

But indeed�察�in looking through the history of costume�察�seeking an

answer to the questions we have propounded�察�there is little that is

either beautiful or appropriate。  One of the earliest forms is the

Greek drapery which is exquisite for young girls。  And then�察�I

think we may be pardoned a little enthusiasm over the dress of the

time of Charles I。�察�so beautiful indeed�察�that in spite of its

invention being with the Cavaliers it was copied by the Puritans。

And the dress for the children of that time must not be passed

over。  It was a very golden age of the little ones。  I do not think

that they have ever looked so lovely as they do in the pictures of

that time。  The dress of the last century in England is also

peculiarly gracious and graceful。  There is nothing bizarre or

strange about it�察�but it is full of harmony and beauty。  In these

days�察�when we have suffered dreadfully from the incursions of the

modern milliner�察�we hear ladies boast that they do not wear a dress

more than once。  In the old days�察�when the dresses were decorated

with beautiful designs and worked with exquisite embroidery�察�ladies

rather took a pride in bringing out the garment and wearing it many

times and handing it down to their daughters ´ a process that

would�察�I think�察�be quite appreciated by a modern husband when

called upon to settle his wife's bills。



And how shall men dress�拭 �Men say that they do not particularly

care how they dress�察�and that it is little matter。  I am bound to

reply that I do not think that you do。  In all my journeys through

the country�察�the only well´dressed men that I saw ´ and in saying

this I earnestly deprecate the polished indignation of your Fifth

Avenue dandies ´ were the Western miners。  Their wide´brimmed hats��

which shaded their faces from the sun and protected them from the

rain�察�and the cloak�察�which is by far the most beautiful piece of

drapery ever invented�察�may well be dwelt on with admiration。  Their

high boots�察�too�察�were sensible and practical。  They wore only what

was comfortable�察�and therefore beautiful。  As I looked at them I

could not help thinking with regret of the time when these

picturesque miners would have made their fortunes and would go East

to assume again all the abominations of modern fashionable attire。

Indeed�察�so concerned was I that I made some of them promise that

when they again appeared in the more crowded scenes of Eastern

civilisation they would still continue to wear their lovely

costume。  But I do not believe they will。



Now�察�what America wants to´day is a school of rational art。  Bad

art is a great deal worse than no art at all。  You must show your

workmen specimens of good work so that they come to know what is

simple and true and beautiful。  To that end I would have you have a

museum attached to these schools ´ not one of those dreadful modern

institutions where there is a stuffed and very dusty giraffe�察�and a

case or two of fossils�察�but a place where there are gathered

examples of art decoration from various periods and countries。

Such a place is the South Kensington Museum in London�察�whereon we

build greater hopes for the future than on any other one thing。

There I go every Saturday night�察�when the museum is open later than

usual�察�to see the handicraftsman�察�the wood´worker�察�the glass´blower

and the worker in metals。  And it is here that the man of

refinement and culture comes face to face with the workman who

ministers to his joy。  He comes to know more of the nobility of the

workman�察�and the workman�察�feeling the appreciation�察�comes to know

more of the nobility of his work。



You have too many white walls。  More colour is wanted。  You should

have such men as Whistler among you to teach you the beauty and joy

of colour。  Take Mr。 Whistler's 'Symphony in White��' which you no

doubt have imagined to be something quite bizarre。  It is nothing

of the sort。  Think of a cool grey sky flecked here and there with

white clouds�察�a grey ocean and three wonderfully beautiful figures

robed in white�察�leaning over the water and dropping white flowers

from their fingers。  Here is no extensive intellectual scheme to

trouble you�察�and no metaphysics of which we have had quite enough

in art。  But if the simple and unaided colour strike the right

keynote�察�the whole conception is made clear。  I regard Mr。

Whistler's famous Peacock Room as the finest thing in colour and

art decoration which the world has known since Correggio painted

that wonderful room in Italy where the little children are dancing

on the walls。  Mr。 Whistler finished another room just before I

came away ´ a breakfast room in blue and yellow。  The ceiling was a

light blue�察�the cabinet´work and the furniture were of a yellow

wood�察�the curtains at the windows were white and worked in yellow��

and when the table was set for breakfast with dainty blue china

nothing can be conceived at once so simple and so joyous。



The fault which I have observed in most of your rooms is that there

is apparent no definite scheme of colour。  Everything is not

attuned to a key´note as it should be。  The apartments are crowded

with pretty things which have no relation to one another。  Again��

your artists must decorate what is more simply useful。  In your art

schools I found no attempt to decorate such things as the vessels

for water。  I know of nothing uglier than the ordinary jug or

pitcher。  A museum could be filled with the different kinds of

water vessels which are used in hot countries。  Yet we continue to

submit to the depressing jug with the handle all on one side。  I do

not see the wisdom of decorating dinner´plates with sunsets and

soup´plates with moonlight scenes。  I do not think it adds anything

to the pleasure of the canvas´back duck to take it out of such

glories。  Besides�察�we do not want a soup´plate whose bottom seems

to vanish in the distance。  One feels neither safe nor comfortable

under such conditions。  In fact�察�I did not find in the art schools

of the country that the difference was explained between decorative

and imaginative art。



The conditions of art should be simple。  A great deal more depends

upon the heart than upon the head。  Appreciation of art is not

secured by any elaborate scheme of learning。  Art requires a good

healthy atmosphere。  The motives for art are still around about us

as they were round about the ancients。  And the subjects are also

easily found by the earnest sculptor and the painter。  Nothing is

more picturesque and graceful than a man at work。  The artist who

goes to the children's playground�察�watches them at their sport and

sees the boy stoop to tie his shoe�察�will find the same themes that

engaged the attention of the ancient Greeks�察�and such observation

and the illustrations which follow will do much to correct that

foolish impression that mental and physical beauty are always

divorced。



To you�察�mor

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